Landracing Forum
Bonneville Salt Flats Discussion => Build Diaries => Topic started by: Jonny Hotnuts on March 08, 2008, 05:56:44 PM
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Last pic of the car with the old nose:
(http://photos-k.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v193/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30035834_9410.jpg)
Me with Sawsall
(http://photos-m.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v193/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30035836_68.jpg)
Almost off
(http://photos-n.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v193/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30035837_395.jpg)
Pop with nose off car
(http://photos-j.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v193/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30035833_9061.jpg)
Next week I will have a roller.
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JH, you look like you're havin too much fun with that sawzall... :evil:
Look forward to seeing the rest of your work... :-D
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Jonny,
Which end are you keeping?
Speaking of keeping... keep your friend away from my car!
Geo
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Here is the result of last weekend.
I had a lesson in fish-mouthing bar ends (first time)....I had to hand shape them with an angle grinder, and this sucks....way to much work. I will be buying a pipe notcher in the future. I tacked some plate casters on the front so I could have a roller so its a bit nose pitched up.
I have a few more bars installed sense this pic was taken, and have some lateral support bars to go, but this is the basic idea. I need to finish welding up the pieces.....no rest for me.
(http://photos-a.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v193/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30040132_3056.jpg)
In this pic you can see the basic placement of the wheels @ 27" spread and 130" base.
(http://photos-c.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v193/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30040134_5582.jpg)
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What's with the residual on the weld spots??? is that some type of oxidation from a dirty metal?
Mig or tig??
Jon
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It almost appears to be zinc. If so the metal is electrical conduit and not up to the task. Please check. If the deposit is a soft white and there appeared to be almost a film of white coming off it's zinc plating. It will contaminate the weld and can make a person feel rather flu like.
As for prepping the tubing, if you make two cuts at say 45 degrees so you form a point, then rotate the tube 90 degrees you will see that its almost prepped. Play with the angles and don't cut quite to the center and the grinding will become minimal.
Pete
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I doubt this is new to anyone, but I use a hole saw set up in the vert mill to notch tubes. Its easy to set up any angle or offset and if you're really careful (lucky) there is no grinding at all. 8-)
Of course if you don't have a mill handy this is pretty useless info, I suppose... :oops:
Cheers,
Mike
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How's all that tubing attached to the rest of the car? It's a unibody, right?
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The deposits you see are because I am using a flux core mig wire without shielding gas, it does the same thing on all steel I weld with it. The welds look fairly decent up close, I will post a pic soon and can assure you that it is not conduit; it is 1.5X .95 mild.
The car is a unibody-frame hybrid. I have huge support bars (2x4x1/4") integrated into the frame tunnels, they are also a mount for the primary hoop of the cage, connect to a cradle that supports the engine, and where the tubes of the nose attach under the car. The top of the nose section was integrated into a section of the roll cage but will have additionally pieces added soon.
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close up pic of welds using flux core wire (cleaned up)
They are ugly but I have never claimed to be a good welder!
(http://photos-c.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sctm/v217/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30040446_9310.jpg)
(http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sctm/v217/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30040447_9830.jpg)
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I decided that I would try shielding gas; I have always tried to avoid gas because I need portability for occasional work projects.....lets say I had some advice!
The guy at the welding shop sold me a tank (75X25 argon-Co2) and a spool. Needless to say I now kick myself in the azz....makes a huge difference!
I now get it....all the problems I had with inconsistant performance have been answered!
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Jonny:
Your welds look good up close. The thing you'll notice with the gas mix is how much cleaner your welds are with a lot less spatter. Keep up the good work.
I don't regret mentioning galvanized material as it may save someone else. I've never suffered the results but I have talked to others who have and I guess "zinc chills" are no fun.
Pete
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FWIW, over thirty years ago I halved an old galvanized hot water tank with a cutting torch for a neighbor who wanted a couple of troughs for his pigs to feed from. Had heard stories of messing with galvanized so did it outside the shop door staying on the windward side with a gentle breeze blowing. Still wound up with a severe headache that lasted beyond the following day. Have been super cautious with a torch [or arc welder] around galvanized and haven't cut any since.
Zinc might be benificial in other forms but is BAD stuff to breath when burned. A subject well worth bringing up Pete.
Jonny: I'm no expert but I've seen a lot of worse looking welds over the years. Keep the questions and build pictures coming, a lot of us lurkers out here learning from both.
Ed Purinton
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THE NEW MOTOR IS HERE!!!!!!
(not really anything to do with the nose but.......)
1507cc
APE Billet crank 5mm (APE)
Carillo H beam rods
Millenium cylinder +30
Wiseco high comp pistons
Ward big valve head
445/443 Megacycle cams
Koenig billet pan
High volume oil pump
S2K injectors
1mm bigger T.B.s
APE Billet Clutch Basket
Billet starter gear
Billet output shaft
and a number of other stuff.......
The motor made 252 hp on bike on race gas. Funny thing is when I got into LSR I opted for small bore motors to save money. Lets just say for what I have in this motor I could of had one hell of a BB!
(http://photos-h.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v193/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30040999_5011.jpg)
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Results of Saturday 22nd:
(http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v193/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30042171_1998.jpg)
X in the bottom
(http://photos-e.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v193/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30042172_2709.jpg)
Plate aluminum
(http://photos-f.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v193/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30042173_3091.jpg)
Tank R&R
(http://photos-g.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v193/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30042174_3525.jpg)
More stuff to go, waiting on steering shaft placement before mounting the water tank, pumps and regs..
I also milled the axle shaft but left it at my pops so no pics.
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This crazy old man (75, but a true genius) lives up the street from my pop and for what ever reason has taken a liking to me and allows me to use his machine shop when ever I want. In this unassuming metal building in a residential area is full of high end huge CNC mills, lathes, shapers, welders and other crap that I could only dream of owning. This is where I milled the axle for the king pin bosses. Because of the precision of the degree angle of the mouth and they needed to be equal on both sides justified doing it over there.
Thank god for crazy old men.
(http://photos-h.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v193/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30042439_6287.jpg)
(http://photos-a.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v193/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30042440_6696.jpg)
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Ya know I thought they were all crazy just that some were crazy/interesting and the others were just plain crazy....anyway, we've had our fair share of help from interesting senior gents and we'd be stuffed without 'em. Recently I've had a few visits from a guy here ( hi Geoff) who is going to build a lakester...the first vehicle he remembers sitting in was his fathers V-twin belly-tank based monocoque hill climb machine.....his dad Ken built and raced speedway, midgets and other ,er , crazy stuff and still has various projects going though he's pushing 80 years young......I showed him an article about a vintage midget meet in Brisbane that had racers from the states as well as the locals reliving the glory days and all sorts of great stuff hoping to impress him......he built one of the cars and had owned or raced others that were pictured.......
Our shortened gearbox wouldn't have happened without the stammering former railway engineer who did some big tig work on his home made welder , home made and registered electric car outside , jazz drum kit and piano in the corner.....his wife didn't like us because it apparently took him several days to "calm down" after each time we'd visit......... I could've talked to him for weeks on end....and his workshop?.....brother!!!
I used to work for an old engineer who had a "vision" in his fifties ....it was explained at his funeral that he would tell people he only really became happy the day he decided to stop cleaning up , he was ...really happy when I worked for him ...ordered chaos was a polite description......
Good to see your front end coming along Nuts , also good to see your "can do" attitude. :wink:
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Jonny,
That is some beautiful workmanship. It's great to follow along on your modification. I am looking forward to seeing it this year.
I have thought of your front axle adjustment device. I wondered why you would want to make adjustments. Once the point is found then set it and make the axle nonadjustable. However, I have some ideas on how to give you both with a very solid mounting. I will draw up some ideas and you can decide what to use.
Geo
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You're doin good Johnny.
Keep it up.
Rick
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Make no mistake there is hidden expenses to landracing. My house it not exactly what one would call “complete” after buying a condemned property. My wife has been very understanding and continues to be a good sport about things but make no mistake that the fact that I took 6 months to build the car without doing anything on the house means that I had to make up for it after Speedweek last year. This included R&R a deck, install new kitchen cabinets, remod the bathroom, install a new roof, and paint the house and much more. This weekend I had to install a new fridge (including piping the ice maker and BS) and cabinets around it, I have not finished the trim work but can do that after work sometime this week. So I am including a pic of my new fridge because that IS what was doing with the exception of adding some axle gussets (very much recommend doing this, I have not seen it done before but it seems give a lot more weldable surface from the king pin boss to the axle.
Why I did not do much this weekend:
(http://photos-g.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v199/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30045118_6817.jpg)
Here is the gussest on the end of the axle:
(http://photos-c.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v199/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30045114_9629.jpg)
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Both jobs looking great Jonny. Keep up the good work.
The PR work is important. That's what allows us to stay happy while we do what we really want, LSR.
Pete
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Nice kitchen and nice fab work on the car. I understand the "honeydo's", just when I just about have all my parts together and am ready to start putting the bike together ,My wife decides we need a major overhaul in the living room/dining room area. And this is after putting in 50+hours a week at work. Oh well gotta keep her happy.
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What racing is all about---keeping the check signer happy-- :wink:-- to keep paying the PARTS bill!!!!!!!!!!! :-D
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You got that right. I work on the house and she buys me lots of parts, sounds fair to me. :lol:
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Here are a few pics of the mock-up steering setup. I Decided to use a sprocket-chain setup to avoid a long shaft and allow more room for items that need to be mounted in the front.
Originally I made the steering reduction linkages but relized that I could gear down my steering by using diffrent size sprockets between the two steering shafts......too late now!
(http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v199/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30046467_657.jpg)
(http://photos-e.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v199/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30046468_1035.jpg)
(http://photos-f.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v199/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30046469_1393.jpg)
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Johnie
Do you have or planning on steering stops? Does the chain have a idler between sprockets? Just wondering. :-D, looking pretty good so far.
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Make no mistake there is hidden expenses to landracing.
Why I did not do much this weekend:
(http://photos-g.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v199/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30045118_6817.jpg)
The best part about buying a new fridge is that you get to use the old one out in the garage. That's a "win-win" in my book!
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Hotnuts, you are doing an awesome job on your project and it should be the subject of a textbook on first time racer builds, but those 13 inch outside diameter tires with five inch rims- as I read the rules - won't be acceptatable on the salt for your class.
SCTA/BNI folk, PLEASE tell me I'm wrong.
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those 13 inch outside diameter tires with five inch rims- as I read the rules - won't be acceptatable on the salt for your class.
They are ok.
This last weekend I got a new air compressor hooked up. I have had the big IR compressor for about 6 months but needed to run a separate breaker and 230 line. I was given about 6 new IR air tools (right angle, die, cut off, impact, ect....) and this was motivation to get the compressor running. Needless to say it was a full day job running a line from the box to the garage, plumbing and regulating the compressor.
I noticed that there is an ugly transition between the busa TBs and head boot.
With a spare set of TBs I decided to do some experimenting and eliminate the transition.
Now that I can use my die grinder I did some port matching.
Here is a pic of what I did today, I still need to smooth out the bumps but here is the basic idea
BTW: If anyone has a dyno and is willing to do a back to back runs with stock and these TBs to show any gain or loss if the TBs make more HP you can keep the port matched TBs and send me a set of good condition stockers.
Stock:
(http://photos-c.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v199/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30047714_5459.jpg)
(http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v199/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30047713_5087.jpg)
One side
(http://photos-a.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v199/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30047712_4717.jpg)
rough port match
(http://photos-h.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v199/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30047711_4333.jpg)
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Here is the new airbox almost done.
I wont post all the pics (but you can click on them) but just the first and newest as of tonight.
1. raw foam
(http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v240/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30057137_4328.jpg)
2. 3M spray glued
http://photos-c.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v240/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30057138_4694.jpg
3. High end circle maker
http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v240/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30057139_5049.jpg
4. basic profile
http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v240/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30055113_9651.jpg
5. aluminum foil (yes, wife is pissed)
http://photos-g.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v240/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30057142_3756.jpg
6. glass 1
http://photos-h.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v240/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30057143_4146.jpg
7. glass 2
http://photos-a.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v240/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30057144_4524.jpg
8. carbon fiber 1
(http://photos-c.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v240/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30057146_5275.jpg)
9. carbon fiber 2
http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v240/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30057145_4894.jpg
10. carbon fiber 3
http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v240/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30057147_109.jpg
Will post pics of the box when it is done...should be in a few days.
-JH
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Looking good.
Does the carbon fiber go on the same way as the glass?
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I used a woven glass as the base, and then a few layers of unwoven build matting for some thickness before the CF so the CF is going in the same direction as the glass base.
While the CF will provide some strength to the box its primary purpose is to look cool.
I figured sense I was going to build a "larger than stock" airbox for the busa motor why not cover it in CF….plus I got a deal on some from Ebay.
The new airbox should be good for a few HP over stock (larger volume for better resonate frequency tuning, even a stock 1300 will gain a few HP with a larger box volume. I had someone more knowledgeable than I am run some calculations on my 1507cc busa motor and what size the box should be).
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The airbox on the motor. It is not finished, needs a few more layers of CF and a nice clear coat.
You can see from the sides that when your epoxy is gelling....dont try and slap it on so you dont waste it. Now I have much more sanding to do because I rushed the glue, would have been better mixing a fresh batch.
This is the motor cage around the motor (note the hook points for a clevis chain to pull the motor at the top). The cage allows us to have all the mounts located in a square package that drops in the car between 2 sections of angle iron mounted at the base of the engine bay. This forces the motor to be aligned and allows for 20 minute engine swaps (providing you have another motor with a cage ready to go in!). You can see the turbo motor in its cage on the side waiting for its build, we will bring it as a back up motor this year, with our without boost.
I had to pull this motors entire clutch assembly out, including basket to change the gear position sensor to a modified unit. The modified sensor de-restricts the motor and allows the LED gear position indicator to work. Because I had the clutch out I installed the mega heavy duty springs......maybe now I should get the clutch slave support. Pulling the entire clutch out....what a pain!
Check out the neat gear postion indacator (many people asked me where I got it last year)
www.boostbysmith.com
(http://photos-h.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v240/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30057831_4923.jpg)
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(http://photos-579.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v240/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30060618_5450.jpg)
Homemade air shifter.....same one we used last year with good results (the install is cleaner this year).
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That looks nice :-). Are you using air or CO2? ........ and where is it stored, bottle, tank, frame, etc...??
How about a couple more pictures (closeups)??
Thanks,
Sum
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Posted on: May 08, 2008, 12:34:41 PMPosted by: Sumner
Insert Quote
That looks nice . Are you using air or CO2? ........ and where is it stored, bottle, tank, frame, etc...??
We use a tiny on board air compressor made by Viair http://www.viaircorp.com/
I installed a pressure switch that shuts off the compressor off at 130 psi and use a Wilkerson mini regulator to trim the pressure to around 60 psi. The system line pressure alone lets us shift about 3 times before the compressor re-charges (no tank).
The shifting is done by paddles on the steering wheel and with the "kill box" allows us to do WOT clutchless shifting (up) just by pressing the paddle on the wheel.
This may sound complicated but in truth it is all very simple and reliable.
What close up pics are you looking for?
-JH
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Posted on: May 08, 2008, 12:34:41 PMPosted by: Sumner
Insert Quote
That looks nice . Are you using air or CO2? ........ and where is it stored, bottle, tank, frame, etc...??
We use a tiny on board air compressor made by Viair http://www.viaircorp.com/
I installed a pressure switch that shuts off the compressor off at 130 psi and use a Wilkerson mini regulator to trim the pressure to around 60 psi. The system line pressure alone lets us shift about 3 times before the compressor re-charges (no tank).
The shifting is done by paddles on the steering wheel and with the "kill box" allows us to do WOT clutchless shifting (up) just by pressing the paddle on the wheel.
This may sound complicated but in truth it is all very simple and reliable.
What close up pics are you looking for?
-JH
Thanks, and maybe another picture of the bottom of the ram where it hooks to the linkage. Did you make your own "kill box" or buy one. I'd be interested in info either way there, a link, or a picture and schematic.
Thanks,
Sum
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SUM: Will post more pics of the shifter soon.
I was not going to post pics of the sheet until it was further along but decided to post a few anyway. This is my first time working sheet. The bends were done by hand over a 8' section of 6" pvc.
This guy was going to charge me a 1k to do this at a shop. I opted to save my green thinking how hard can it really be......in truth.....it wasnt. Now I only wish I had a break, power yoder and planishing hammer!
On another note Dennis Murray of the "Chili Pepper" VXO car is making a sidewinder header for the new motor. As soon as I get it the motor is going in the car.
(Hello DM if you read this.....[I hear he reads a few threads every now and again!])
(http://photos-g.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v240/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30061062_7245.jpg)
(http://photos-h.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v240/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30061063_7643.jpg)
Where the "hood" over hangs the bottom will be cut off even with the bottom and a glass nose will be put on.
(http://photos-a.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v240/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30061064_8001.jpg)
I made some supports that hold the tires off the deck about 2", you can just see the tire poking out from under the wheel pants.
(http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v240/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30061065_7063.jpg)
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On another note Dennis Murray of the "Chili Pepper" VXO car is making a sidewinder header for the new motor. As soon as I get it the motor is going in the car.
(Hello DM if you read this.....[I hear he reads a few threads every now and again!])
Dennis does very nice work, his first Busa Sidewinder was in the MSA Lakester for the H/Gas work. He has made several pipes for us over the years. Great guy to work with.... our exhaust systems qualify as "non-standard" and the big names don't do custom, he makes them look and work great.
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That looks good. I like the new nose over the old one. I think it will work good for you. I need to do some bending like that also, so I'll try your pipe deal. Harbor Freight had their larger $200 planishing hammer on sale for $99 not too long ago and I got one. Seems to work pretty good. I don't know if it is still on sale or not. I think next week I might be trying to start on my body also and see how it goes and if I should send my money in or not.
Keep posting the pictures. They will help me. Is that 20 gauge cold roll you are using??
c ya,
Sum
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Nice work Jonny, love the nose, love the work...you have a great "get in or get outa the way" work ethic...like the air-shifter too.Now , is it still gonna be green? :wink:
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Dennis does very nice work, his first Busa Sidewinder was in the MSA Lakester for the H/Gas work. He has made several pipes for us over the years. Great guy to work with.... our exhaust systems qualify as "non-standard" and the big names don't do custom, he makes them look and work great
We met Dennis about 7 years ago when we were crew for the VXO Tubby Racing Hudson. Gene and Dennis are both from the Eugene Oregon area and as with all flat head guys are thick as thieves. Its nice to know that if I needed the header modded I would only have about a 2 hour drive.
Is that 20 gauge cold roll you are using??
18 cold
I opted for a slightly thicker material (weight forward and all, but all of the sheet on the nose weighs only about 50-60 pounds). There are compromises between 20 and 18. 20 gauge is easier to bend….but also burns through easily and requires more bracing for stiffness. 18 is heavier but is also more ridged….good once formed, harder to form.
My thinking that there would not be a noteworthy gain in weight reduction by using thinner material with more bracing then slightly thicker with less.
It was really not that difficult to bend, even on the wide sections as long as you had ample tail left on the work for leverage. The left half section of the hood I had tons of stock and was easy to bend, and then I trimmed off the excess material. I decided to use the bent and trimmed left half section as a template for the right side……this gave much less remaining overhang. Needless to say it was much harder to bend!
is it still gonna be green?
Green is the fastest color :-D
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Air box complete (wont make scoop until it gets in the car).
(http://photos-e.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v240/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30062060_8740.jpg)
foam blank with dog
(http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v240/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30062059_8399.jpg)
Side. I did not want to be too aggressive with the shape profile until the juncture between car and nose worked. I still have to refine the profile but this is the basic idea.
(http://photos-f.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v240/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30062061_9039.jpg)
Test fit
(http://photos-a.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v240/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30062064_8449.jpg)
Test fit 2 and you can see that I am now in desperate need of a shop, working in a 16" trailer is getting to be a joke.
(http://photos-h.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v240/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30062063_9645.jpg)
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I like it and you are giving me encouragement that maybe I can make my body by August. One question, is there a reason you didn't drop the front of the nose further and maybe blend it right back into the sides of the wheel skirt. I know from my own build that sometimes what people see in pictures is not practical in real life.
Keep the pictures coming as you finish this off. Great stuff,
Sum
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One question, is there a reason you didn't drop the front of the nose further and maybe blend it right back into the sides of the wheel skirt. I know from my own build that sometimes what people see in pictures is not practical in real life.
(http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v240/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30062153_8645.jpg)
The pictures are a bit deceiving; in truth the body is lower that what you can see. While the sides and “hood” are relatively flat the belly pan has a concave profile. Because I made the body fit tight to the wheels the wheel skirts “ride” up on the lower radius making it look higher than it is in reality and had to de-bend some of the lower radius just to get the wheels to have some turning clearance.
In the pic you can see the wheel skirt is bottom is about 1” off the deck (it is less, I couldn’t get the jack out from under the frame because it wouldn’t get low enough!), this means that the lowest part of the body (at the apex of the belly pan) is in reality only about >3-3.5” from the salt.
The measurement of 17” at the top of the hood is done only slightly in front of the wheels meaning the nose section breaks over at about 15” (15” only seems like a number, once you put a tape on the ground and SEE 15” it is crazy low).
At this front height the body remains somewhat level front to back but is still higher in the rear. I can not lower the back without doing some serious mods and if I was to lower the front the rear would be considerably higher, I have already made pre plans for next year regarding this matter. One of the many items that I changed this year was:
1. HUGE amount of positive camber in the rear. This was only able to be change by fabing some crazy H beam linkages.
2. Because of the billet flat bottom oil pan and sidewinder exhaust on the new motor, I was able to lower the motor 1.5”……but more importantly I was able to raise the bearing-axle 2” making the axle angle almost dead level laden. (Last year my CV to wheel was like 25 degrees, even the guy in tech said “are you sure this is OK?”. I could not lower the rear without pulling the CVs out of there sockets. I could hypothetically new lower the back 2” to match the raise in the rear end and retain the bad angle…..but opted for an improved drive angle instead. I can raise the drive even more IF I cut and shorten the Rx7 axles (pushes the CV joints past the motor supports, this means I could raise the assembly about 1” allowing me to lower the car 1” in the rear.)
One thing that I still laugh about is my buddy Rich from the Hudson Boys http://www.thehudsonboys.com/ (a great LSR site) mentioned after a discussion about why it was handling so bad and giving the car a good look over said: “If you want drama…..you are set up for it!”
Needless to say those words hit home, and I vowed that next year I don’t care how fast the car goes….as long as it goes straight
BTW:
I really thought I could get it all correct my first time, I understand now that it will take a few years to get all the bugs worked out!
-JH
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(http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v240/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30062937_1160.jpg)
First coat of glass. My method is to use a common weave fiberglass for the first layer, and then use build matting to give it some thickness. Once this dries I sand the entire thing smooth, use glass filler and bondo then add a few more layers of woven matting. I dont know if this is the correct way to do it but I have had consistent and good results.
(http://photos-h.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v240/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30062935_462.jpg)
I had to shorten each pipe about 3/4" to raise the collector, and found it will suit us perfectly to have the pipe pointing upwards. This year we will cut the pipe height down about 6" and mount a T3 flange on it. I will mount a t3 flange on a 90 degree bend and route the pipe out the back, when we run a turbo we can unbolt the flanges and mount the turbo on the perch.
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JH,
The changes are looking good! Nice build on the modular engine cradle. Keep us posted.
Geo
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A huge milestone
(http://photos-579.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v240/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30063706_5651.jpg)
Here is a pic of how the engine cage fits into the cradle rails.
(http://photos-579.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v240/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30063707_5991.jpg)
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(http://photos-g.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v257/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30069350_2916.jpg)
I got lucky this time.
I changed sprockets to a 19 tooth counter....no big deal....BUT my new motor did not have the speed sensor magnets on the end of the countershaft.....if I had not changed the sprocket I would not known. Thankfully our backup-turbo motor had them.
(http://photos-e.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v257/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30069348_2248.jpg)
Push wheel
I made it long because I dont know how it will need to be until I get the push bumper made. Its removable with a 1/2" push pin. Still need to finish boxing in the sides.
(http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v257/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30069347_1895.jpg)
Water tank....a converted 5 gallon air tank (35$).
(http://photos-h.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v257/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30069351_3256.jpg)
I am plumbing the system almost entirely of 1.25 copper. I had ordered (2X) .75 and it was mis-shipped and to my surprise they said keep it if it will work (the 1.25 is only 101$ per 10' section!!!) I figure the larger pipe will hold about 1 gallon additional coolant and larger surface area will help dissipate heat better between runs.
BTW:
I will be running a second electric water pump near the motor.
(http://photos-f.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v257/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30069349_2577.jpg)
Starting to plumb the water system.
I also put in the "rear steer eliminators" to get rid of the Gen 2 Rx7 rear steering. This alone took the better part of a day and completely sucked…what a horrible job!
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Homemade shoot pull handle
Not entirely finished, need to be cleaned up and have some tabs made.
(http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v257/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30070179_2354.jpg)
(http://photos-e.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v257/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30070180_2709.jpg)
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Does that say China on the handle????
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I had a choice in wrenches....and for whatever it’s worth that is (was) the best China made wrench I have ever owned and have had it for years.
I considered using an old Snap-On but it is too sentimental and I have a matching set of Crescent flat black industrial wrenches that get a lot of use so they were out.
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Other tools I have seen used for car parts:
Vise grip steering wheels
swivel socket steering linkage
usually only on cars built in Rio Linda :-D :-o
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Other tools I have seen used for car parts:
Vise grip steering wheels
swivel socket steering linkage
usually only on cars built in Rio Linda :-D :-o
Ok you ditto head. :-D
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J'nuts,
If you have had it for 5 years without breaking it you obviously need a longer "snipe"!
Rex
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Other tools I have seen used for car parts:
Vise grip steering wheels
swivel socket steering linkage
usually only on cars built in Rio Linda :-D :-o
Ok you ditto head. :-D
If there is any of you guys out there from Rio Linda, I apologize (but you know it's true :-D) I was born and raised in the sacramento area and had an uncle that single handily populated half of Rio Linda so I spent alot of time out there as a kid visiting. All the jokes about that town are rooted in truth.
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If you use a swivel socket in a steering linkage, use Craftsman as they are guaranteed for life.
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Yours or the tools?
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(http://photos-g.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v257/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30071550_8405.jpg)
Finished lever assembly ready for mounting.
My choice to use a wrench for a handle was purely a stylistic decision, not because I did not have the means or ability to use a more standard lever.
It was in truth more difficult to use the wrench then a piece of bar stock (hiding the welds to the pivot bolt and whatnot) and can guarantee that it is by far stronger than any over the counter cable pull lever out there (even though if you need strength in a shoot lever you have major problems).
Tomorrow I will try and get it fired up for the first time with the new motor.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PIr_PIIBt1c
it lives!
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Always a great feeling when the motor is in and running. How much do you have to do to be finished? Are you going to speedweek or WOS? Sounds good for a motorcycle. :-D
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Always a great feeling when the motor is in and running. How much do you have to do to be finished? Are you going to speedweek or WOS? Sounds good for a motorcycle.
Posted on: Today at 05:40:58 PMPosted by: Jonny Hotnuts
Speedweek for sure!
My mum and pop have never been anywhere and my wife and I are taking them to Spain and Italy on June 12th. I told my pop that I would not get on the plane unless the motor ran. This is going to kill a few weekends for me but now that the motor runs it mentally is a huge weight off my shoulders. After all, if it was in gear the car would now move under its own power....everything else is just making it go better!
I make a list of items that are prioritized based on what the car needs to have done to run. Worst case I would just need to get some sort of cooling system done. It is true the car needs to have some body work done, paint, alignment, rear torsion bars, suspension stops, ram air intake, new rear break calipers, wiring, and on and on......but this is all stuff that wont keep me from going.
I made the joke with my pop that I will be working in the trailer on the way to the salt with him driving. Same joke as last year (still not funny, only had a week to spair last year!).
Truth is.....it will be ready by August 1st.
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Just looked at your pictures and I sure like your steering set up it is simple, compact, low cost and gives any reduction that you want to build into it, nice job! Did you lay up the finished nose over the plug or did you make a mold?
Bruce Harmon
7077 H/BFL (under construction)
I will never complain about my cramped two car garage work space again!
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(http://photos-g.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v257/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30071550_8405.jpg)
Finished lever assembly ready for mounting.
My choice to use a wrench for a handle was purely a stylistic decision, not because I did not have the means or ability to use a more standard lever.
It was in truth more difficult to use the wrench then a piece of bar stock (hiding the welds to the pivot bolt and whatnot) and can guarantee that it is by far stronger than any over the counter cable pull lever out there (even though if you need strength in a shoot lever you have major problems).
Tomorrow I will try and get it fired up for the first time with the new motor.
crikey Nuts who do you think you are ...Us?...that's fantastic!....... shame you didn't use a Titan.......then as the Colonel would say "what are you gonna use when you need to "loosen" it? Sadly we've had to ditch the seat we made out of two inner mudguards because we're both , er, gettin' fat and we were worried that soon we'd be larded out and need to look for another driver, we've gone for a home-made Al slip seat which sadly looks like a bought one...
Top work....how was Spain?, I'm there at the end of July.
Dr G
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se va abroard médico ?
Diminuta 8-)
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Top work....how was Spain?, I'm there at the end of July.
Dr G
Spent a week in Spain, 5 days in Rome.
If I could do it all over again I would spend the entire time in Spain.
Rome is like going to the dentist....something you should do, something you need to do, you are better off going but there is a good deal of pain you have to deal with. (too many people, very expensive the "attractions" treat people like cattle).
This is my second trip to Spain and love the place. The food, people and history are first rate not to mention that even with the poop-dollar to euro rate Spain is still very reasonable. Next year I could go anywhere I want, I will go back to Spain.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
While walking with my parents and wife through a tourist packed market-street in Barcelona @ about 40 yards I noticed a guy walking the other direction that seemed out of place. He was walking alone with a brown leather coat over his shoulder, covering half his upper body. This would not seem like a big deal but considering that it was 86 degrees in the shade I knew this cat was up to no good. I told my pop that I spotted a pick pocket. As we got closer I seen the guys hand poke out from under his coat and attempt to unzip a small camera bag (or fanny pack) on an old man whom he was walking closely behind.
This happened at the exact time that we were passing, and was able to get a good look at what was going on.
Needless to say the saying "body follows the head" proved true in this case. With a quick leg to the inside behind him and a hand on the neck Mr. brown coat was on his back while I was shouting "PICK POCKET and THEFE" angrily in his face. The years of practice on a guitar has given me some unusual left hand strength. It was fortunate for him that there was some motorcycle police about a half block away that quickly collected Mr. Brown Coat whom they strangely already happened to know on a first name basis. Because, if the police (or someone else) did not stop me, I would have choked him out to make a point (he was not far, eyes were starting to roll back).
After thinking about what I did I realized it was not a good idea. This guy could of easily had a knife or other weapon or been working in a group......I was clearly not prepared to deal with that, and my pop (65) would of not been much help if there had been multiples.
Just wanted to tell my little story.....lucky Im not in a Spain jail!
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BTW:
If you have a choice in airlines and Delta is one of your choices.....choose the other one.
I don’t want to get into what the problems were.....far too much to tell.
Take my advice, dont fly Delta.
-JH
(http://photos-e.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v257/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30085564_4014.jpg)
Me, Jonny Hotnuts
(http://photos-g.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v257/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30085566_4625.jpg)
Wife, Lori Hotnuts
(http://photos-f.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v257/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30085565_4344.jpg)
Funny picture of old man explaining why he turned in front of a truck!
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Hotnuts, welcome home..........glad your not in some jail over there........Hey, what is this about
Dad not able to be any help at age 65................
don't you dare pick on us old folks..........at 71
I can still take on "multiples"..... just try me..........
Next year take the family to the Netherlands
at tulip (Spring) time.....you will love it...............
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I was just making the point that whoever designed this couldn't spell
G
(http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc28/grumm441/Titan.jpg)
(http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc28/grumm441/Loosen.jpg)
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(http://photos-f.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v257/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30086333_3161.jpg)
Here is a pic of the revamped fuel system. I wish I had a before shot, it was a real mess. The gauge next to the tank is fuel pressure.
(http://photos-g.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v257/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30086334_3519.jpg)
Here is the regulator and soilnoids for the air shifter. Its hard to see in the pic but the soilnoids are mounted on an odd shaped raised platform. No reason for the odd platform shape or non square soilnoid mounting....just something diffrent.
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(http://photos-a.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v257/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30087808_3204.jpg)
The handy man jack was the only way we could get it out of the trailer. I am going to build a large "X" with 4 pneumatic wheels to go under the front. It should allow us to remove the car without having to do this. It was not exactly "safe" but it all ended ok.
(http://photos-c.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v257/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30087810_1911.jpg)
The hood is just sitting there, needs to have a few duzs. The off set eyebolt is connected to the structure and a lifting hitch on the truck will allow us to pick the front wheels off the ground for towing
(http://photos-h.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v257/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30087807_2867.jpg)
Need to glass the intake....wife likes the pink…..will look better green.
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Cool picture, I hope it handles right on the salt.
J
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Now thats a nose. Brian #7796
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Jonny:
I'm scared to think what you might be able to do with a slightly less restrictive "shop".
Pete
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Cool picture, I hope it handles right on the salt.
J
Last year we had plenty of motor but the car was all over the place. The nose was just one of many things that I changed that were potential problems relating to handling.
I told my pop that I did not care how fast we went....as long as it was straight!!!
BTW JN....
I will be coming around to say hello at SW.
Jonny:
I'm scared to think what you might be able to do with a slightly less restrictive "shop".
Pete
Truth is that I have a 30X18 at my pops; unfortunately it is a 40 minuet drive each way. After I get home from work the last thing I want to do is drive that far. Before the car was stretched it was only a nuisance....now it is a real pain in the arse.
I have a 10X25 attached to my house but this is a no-go unless I relocate the washer and dryer to the basement. My poor wife puts up with enough of my nonsense to have to deal with a car in her "laundry room"!
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Cool picture, I hope it handles right on the salt.
J
Last year we had plenty of motor but the car was all over the place. The nose was just one of many things that I changed that were potential problems relating to handling.
I told my pop that I did not care how fast we went....as long as it was straight!!!
BTW JN....
I will be coming around to say hello at SW.
Jonny:
I'm scared to think what you might be able to do with a slightly less restrictive "shop".
Pete
Truth is that I have a 30X18 at my pops; unfortunately it is a 40 minuet drive each way. After I get home from work the last thing I want to do is drive that far. Before the car was stretched it was only a nuisance....now it is a real pain in the arse.
I have a 10X25 attached to my house but this is a no-go unless I relocate the washer and dryer to the basement. My poor wife puts up with enough of my nonsense to have to deal with a car in her "laundry room"!
See you at SW, I will be riding and driving.. :mrgreen:
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Congrats on a "succesful" trip to Espana!!!!!!!! will you come visit the Southern Arizona border? We would love for you to stay with us if you wanted to overnight in Phoienix!!!!!!!!!! lol
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Cool build
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I made a dolly to get the car in and out...was a real problem before.
This made getting in and out a 25 second deal.....I should of made one much sooner.
(http://photos-579.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v291/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30094384_2425.jpg)
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in that pic the nose looks low
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I made a dolly to get the car in and out...was a real problem before.
This made getting in and out a 25 second deal.....I should of made one much sooner.
(http://photos-579.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v291/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30094384_2425.jpg)
Neat idea,
Sum
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JH,
Now that's pretty slick! :lol:
I think you have been hanging out at airports looking at 747 landing gear. :-D
Geo
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Last year my pop broke the shift switch when throwing the steering wheel down during escape practice.
He also got confused what switch shifted up and down.
This year I made a cover with arrows that make it real clear and should protect the switches from abuse.
(http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-snc1/v276/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30102779_5135.jpg)
(http://photos-e.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-snc1/v276/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30102780_5460.jpg)
(http://photos-c.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-snc1/v276/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30102778_4732.jpg)
(http://photos-f.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v310/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30102789_1935.jpg)
Here is a pic of the pull pin for the door net.
I found a company that supplies these double acting positive lock pins to aerospace manufactures.
The attached cable also attaches to the same type pin on the left side lateral head restraint bar. The cable is pulled manually with a lever and is attached to an air ram cylinder along side the seat. As we already have an onboard compressor for the air shifter it was an easy branch to send a line to the air solenoid that operates the cylinder.
I have also installed Bazzaz self mapping fuel injection controllers and got rid of the PCIII.
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(http://photos-f.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v310/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30102789_1935.jpg)
Is the horizontal pin like a safety pin and is it pulled before the run??
Also I'm confused is this pulled by the air cylinder or by hand or either?? If just the air what would happen if in a wreck an air line got knocked off and you lost the air??
Keep the pictures coming you are giving me some ideas,
Sum
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The pins are positive lock....meaning they will not come out unless they pulled (or pushed). The cable that pulls them is routed in such a way that you can reach down near your left hip and pull upward on a lever to release the pins. You can also release the pins manually without the cable by reaching behind your head and pulling them directly, this is what we did last year for the window net and this sucked.
There are some very good argument about not having an automatic net release system and the potential problems that could happen (accidental release or non release for instance). I weighed these options and decided that there is an advantage to this concept by a method of triggering the ram to release by shutting off the main switch or the main battery disconnect at the back of the car. This means that if there was an incident the emergency personal shutting off the battery disconnect will also release the door net and lateral head restraint. Due to the fact that my system of removable lateral head bar and use of pins for retention is different and not everyone could instantly recognize how they work, I felt that a system of automatic release system this simple was better than the potential for accidental release. (I am putting instruction on the outside of the car how to release the pins manually).
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The pins are positive lock....meaning they will not come out unless they pulled (or pushed). The cable that pulls them is routed in such a way that you can reach down near your left hip and pull upward on a lever to release the pins. You can also release the pins manually without the cable by reaching behind your head and pulling them directly, this is what we did last year for the window net and this sucked.
There are some very good argument about not having an automatic net release system and the potential problems that could happen (accidental release or non release for instance). I weighed these options and decided that there is an advantage to this concept by a method of triggering the ram to release by shutting off the main switch or the main battery disconnect at the back of the car. This means that if there was an incident the emergency personal shutting off the battery disconnect will also release the door net and lateral head restraint. Due to the fact that my system of removable lateral head bar and use of pins for retention is different and not everyone could instantly recognize how they work, I felt that a system of automatic release system this simple was better than the potential for accidental release. (I am putting instruction on the outside of the car how to release the pins manually).
Thanks, but I'm still confused about that pin. It looks like there are two pull loops. Is that right and do they both have to be pulled?
Sum
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The typical use for this type pin is to have a tether line of some sort attached to the release hoop (center) that allows a person to pull the line and remove the pin where access is too high (aircraft landing locks for instance) and there is a need to release the pin in a hurry.
The other loop (side) is to connect a line to keep the pin from falling completely out when the tether is pulled, and to retain it in a relatively close proximity to the pins use location. I got a few of these type pins and the 1/2X3" would split your head if you snatched its release line and it fell out on your head.
http://www.avibank.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=home.prods&Product_ID=18
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............The other loop (side) is to connect a line to keep the pin from falling completely out when the tether is pulled, and to retain it in a relatively close proximity to the pins use location.................
Ok, I finally got it.
Thanks,
Sum
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JH what are you using for data logging?
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FV,
I am using the new Bazzaz Systems Z-FI with the Z-AFM
I have been pissed for years that to get a real map for the PC3 you had to go to an "authorized" Dynojet facility and only "authorized" Dynojet trained personal could do the maps (I even remember a disclaimer that they would sue anyone disclosing how to make maps).
The Bazzaz System records your runs and self maps. For me this is perfect due to the fact that a PC3 map is useless as soon as you change anything on the motor. This system will allow me change anything on the motor and I can have the system re-map, view the suggested changes and apply the changes to the new map.
So far I am 100% impressed with the Bazzaz system. Good to not be tied to Dynojet anymore....
BTW: I am selling a perfectly good Dynojet PC3 usb if anyone is interested.
I am ordering a second Bazzaz harness and installing it on my personal bike when the car is not on the salt.
http://www.bazzazperformance.com
This is all I am using for data logging
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Note to Dynojet: Don't hire Jonny Hotnuts to write ad copy for you.
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Jonny,
Thank you for the info on Bazzaz, I checked thier website and think that they have a perfect tool for tuning applications. Did you buy the Z-AFM kit w/AFR sensor or the Z-Fi module using a different sensor? Or do you need both?
Do these come with software included or is that a seperate package?
It sounds like you can select an air/fuel ratio and the Bazzaz will control to your setting? So do you still need something like a Power Commander to change ignition timeing?
Sorry for all of the questions, I am new at this. Thanks for proving again how invaluable this web site is!
Bruce Harmon
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Posted on: Today at 11:30:10 AMPosted by: bharmon77
Insert Quote
Jonny,
Thank you for the info on Bazzaz, I checked thier website and think that they have a perfect tool for tuning applications. Did you buy the Z-AFM kit w/AFR sensor or the Z-Fi module using a different sensor? Or do you need both?
Do these come with software included or is that a seperate package?
It sounds like you can select an air/fuel ratio and the Bazzaz will control to your setting? So do you still need something like a Power Commander to change ignition timeing?
Sorry for all of the questions, I am new at this. Thanks for proving again how invaluable this web site is!
Bruce Harmon
No apologies for asking questions BH.
I purchased Z-Fi and the Z-AFM.
The Fi is an advanced PC….the thing plugs into everything: each injector, TPS, Speed sensor, GPS and on and on (was an easy install but there were a bunch of plugs).
The AFM has the wideband O2 and a few more plugs, it piggybacks the Fi unit and if you want to self map…you will need both units.
It comes with the software, and recommends that for best performance you tweek the auto maps with a dyno tune. I have a friend who runs this same setup and found consistently that the self map is so close to perfect that it is not worth the time and effort to tweek the map to gain 1 HP (maybe if I were a professional road racer it would justify).
I found them cheapest at Schnitzracing.com …..the logo glows when on….neat stuff!
They also have a unit that will work on an 08 (the 08 now requires 2X PC3s) and has a piggyback box for its traction control system (I know nothing about it).
I only wonder what the 08 busa with traction control would do on the salt….can bet there will be at least one this year!
(http://photos-579.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v310/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30104104_8947.jpg)
(http://photos-579.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v310/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30104105_9339.jpg)
(http://photos-579.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v310/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30104106_9690.jpg)
Here the almost finished air intake
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(http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-snc1/v276/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30111163_9618.jpg)
The back is about 3" lower than will be in pic. I can adjust the height....this is too low, I shouldnt of been messin with things.
The front is also lower because the tires only have about 20 psi.
(http://photos-e.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-snc1/v276/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30111164_9993.jpg)
I have been hitting this thing really hard. I need a break......
I long for the day that can build a car and dont feel an overwhelming sense of chaos and rush to get things done. Thank god SW is only a few weeks away.
BTW:
The grey paint is a high build polyester spray.....this stuff is great for hiding any surface imperfections. I highly recommend it.
-JH
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Looking rather slippery Jonny.
Pete
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JH,
Looks great! I have been following the change you made this past year. It's quite an accomplishment and I had a few days lately of wondering if it would be done.
I can't wait to hear how it goes. Straight ---> :-)
Geo
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I had a few days lately of wondering if it would be done.
I told my pop that I would end up working on the car in the trailer as he towed it to the salt!
Fact is....the car isnt done and wont be done. Sure it will go to the salt and run but if I had a few more months I could really iron out some of the details in fit and finish.
I took short cuts on finish work....If you look close you will find all sorts of things that could be done better (jitterbugs in the paint, things don’t fit 100%, little dents…ect).
You can bet that without the pressure of a major rebuild next year, the car will be much closer to the way I want it.
I am already thinking of the turbo motor for next year….and the 900+ HP Ecotec 2.0 that will likely end up in the car in a few years.
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JNuts, welcome to the club of race cars not show cars. I suspect everyone on the salt has an area or 2 that they wish they had time to make better. Your car has come a long way, and you won't hear anyone say anything about a little finish problem when it is sitting in impound... :wink:
see ya on the salt 8-)
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Today one of my goals was to bleed the breaks.
Last year we had front and rear brakes….this year only the rears.
For whatever reason I forgot to block off the front break lines at the proportional valve…and the front break lines just were cut off inside the body work when the old nose was removed and the new nose sections were built around them. Needless to say after about 1 quart of break fluid going into the system I started asking myself “d@#n this thing needs a lot of fluid”. They were new break calipers and lines but it was getting crazy.
After seeing some break fluid running out from under the cars belly pan I realized my mistake and removed the lines and plugged the holes under the dash. Found it much easier to bleed the breaks now that there was not a massive hemorrhage.
No moral to this story…..sometimes S@#t happens.
-JH
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JH:
You meant to say "Sometimes sweetiepie happens", didn't you?
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Here is my solution for towing the car with limited steering radius and to be able to quickly retrieve the car at the end of a run.
I started with a massive .75 machine eye bolt. I took the pic next to a standard 16oz hammer for reference. Before I grafted the nose on the car I welded a 2"X.25 square bar with a .75" cap on the end that butts up to the backside of the nose section.
It was drilled and tapped to accept the eye bolt.
(http://photos-c.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v300/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30117138_713.jpg)
I used a strap style come-along and some 2" square to make a receiver lift.
(http://photos-a.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v300/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30117136_9946.jpg)
Its a snap to screw in the eye bolt and jack the front up. One cool thing is that the truck does not have to back perfectly up to the car, it can be a few feet away and off to one side, the strap will pull the nose straight.
The bottom plate is to prevent the car from moving forward when stopping. I will cap the holes and put a road alligator on the plate (providing I can find one!) to keep any shock from transferring when it makes contact with the plate. The strap on the end of the main bar keeps the hook from drifting.
(http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v300/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30117137_349.jpg)
The car just needs a little green paint and will be good to go.
-JH
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Great idea JH, mind if I maybe copy it??
Now I just have to remember about it 8-).
c ya in a week,
Sum
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Insert Quote
Great idea JH, mind if I maybe copy it??
Now I just have to remember about it .
c ya in a week,
If by pure accident I come up with something useful to someone else I would be honored if they used my idea or a variation on a theme..... no need to ask.
BTW:
If you get some time you should meet us for dinner one night.....seem we dont get to talk much on the salt.
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Finally green!!!!
Talk about pushing things right to the deadline!
This is my first time using a new HPLV gun I picked up the other day. I have an arse kicking conventional setup that I know very well (came from my days painting guitars for Peavey). I know that gun inside and out and should have used it.
The first cup of paint with the new gun was horrible…..the gun would blow every time you pressed the trigger and drip paint causing a few runs and inconstant patterns.
During the flash time (15 mins) I looked over the trouble shooting manual and found there was a seat adjustment that should be performed before pressurizing the gun and was for whatever reason not done in the factory.
After I got that adjusted I realized that my poopy new HPLV gun was far superior to the Bink - DeVilbiss pressure feed system I have used all these years. A monkey could shoot paint with the new gun correctly set up…..consistent pattern….smooth & even flow (like shooting powder). It seems obvious that you should shoot on a test piece…but me thinking I know what I am doing and being in a hurry ended up biting me this time. Thankfully I was able to blend the bad spots so its not too noticeable.
I did not want to spend a great deal of time on perfecting the nose as it sits…..There is a very good chance there will be some minor design refinements next year (running is my only form R&D).
(http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-snc1/v322/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30118659_8441.jpg)
(http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-snc1/v322/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30118691_4949.jpg)
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Hey John, I don't want to pop your bubble on the lift tow design but Don Nuss has had it for 10 years as do a couple of others, It's really a neat system and no one has to ride back in the car. keep up the ideas though. see you in a few days.
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We were planning on doing something similar this year, but we are still behind. Maybe we will have ours done by Oct. or Nov. El Mirage. Looks good JH we will see you soon, hopefully. :-D
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(http://photos.l3.facebook.com/photos-l3-snc1/v322/69/50/1114496579/n1114496579_30119501_6400.jpg)
A pic of my pop next to the car, I just got finished putting a push plate on the truck. I put a stainless plate on the front of it....just for that little something.
bvillercr, hope to see you also. I was wanting to look over your car first hand.
-JH
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JH, a big change from last year, lots of hard work,
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looks Good :-D
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JH, you are welcome anytime in our pits. That goes for anyone at speedweek, we enjoy talking with fellow speed enthusiasts. Man your car looks long, how much wheelbase did you add? Looking good see you soon and I will keep you posted on when we will get there. :-D
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That is a great tow set up you have there. I enjoy looking at trailers, push bars, etc. almost as much as looking at others race cars.
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Thanks for all the replys.
JH, you are welcome anytime in our pits. That goes for anyone at speedweek, we enjoy talking with fellow speed enthusiasts. Man your car looks long, how much wheelbase did you add? Looking good see you soon and I will keep you posted on when we will get there
The wheelbase is 129.5" [almost 11'] (130 is class max, stock Fiat wheelbase is 7'...basically added 4' in wheels)
There is about 3' from nose tip to center of front wheel
3' from center of rear wheel to back of the spills.
This equals just over 17'.....wont fit in trailer unless the chute and spills are off!
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I guess it's a good thing that you didn't have a bigger trailer! :-D
Good luck, JH.
Mike