Landracing Forum
Tech Information => EFI Questions => Topic started by: Dakin Engineering on January 01, 2008, 09:12:24 PM
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Does a wrinkle paint finish produce enough surface area to matter?
(http://xlforum.net/photopost/data/500/medium/pressure_test_2.jpg)
Happy New Year!
Sam
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The insulation provided by the paint exceeds the presumed benefit of the wrinkle finish.
Try GUN COAT.
It goes on thin, almost like ink , and has to be cured in an oven.
Plating is another option.
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Thanks Jack,
Loan me a nickel? ;)
Sam
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Looks nice, how about soldering some fins to those tubes?
Sum
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It's for a water/air and my best guess is that direct ice/salt packing will give the best IAT differential for 3 minutes.
Love to see other examples,
Sam
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Jack,
After due consideration, I'm gonna paint the copper with anti-seize and wipe it down.
Thankee,
Sam
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Will you be monitoring the air in and out temps? I'd like to see how well you do with this if you don't mind.
Thanks
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Intake air temp and MAP, O2 front cylinder. K thermocouples on both pipes.
A box that knows what to do with it. :roll:
And a prayer........
San
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Why are you going to paint it at all!? If it is going to be in water the direct contact of the water to the copper is best. Any coating will reduce the rate of heat transfer.
Rex
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During my testing with various liquids, brine being one of them, it developed quite a bit of surface corrosion. Polishing it out again got me thinking.
Silver plating would improve heat sinking, but still corrode. Not to mention the expense. (I've got a roll of silver solder and a propane bottle invested so far.)
I'm looking for the simplist, cheapest way to keep corrosion away.
Does gun blu work on copper?
Sam
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Look into a product called Incralac, Its a sealer for bronze and copper and it doesn't brake down like normal sealers/paints. I'm not sure what reduction in thermal transfer it might cause, but I cant imagine it would be much. otherwise just let it patina.
-A
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IIRC Birchwood Casey used to make a copper & brass blackening product for gun hardware - try Brownell's etc.
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Thar she blows! Brass Black.
Thankee, sirs
Sam
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Sam,
If you are going to use brine maybe you should put some sort of "scrafical" anode into the tank so that the electrolsis is between the scrafical anode not your copper cooler. I think that mag works for this but I am sure some one that actually knows will post.
Rex
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Sam,
call Finish Line Coatings they apply Thermal Dispersants. Might work.
http://www.finishlinecoatings.com/
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IIRC a sacrificial metal will help in proportion to its relative position on the scale of activity. Copper is relatively inert, so anything higher (magnesium and aluminum best in that order) will work. There are more active metals (lithium, barium, potassium, sodium, calcium) but they react violently with water.
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What does the 3-5 degree colder salt ice water do over non-corrosive plain ice water? Did your experiments include Water Wetter or any of the equivalent non-corrosive products? 50/50 antifreeze? Just thoughts... It is always better to keep it simple, even if the supply of salt seems unlimited.... 8-)
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Stainless,
Ya got me there. My testing showed no appricable gain with the brine solution.
But, since Salt gets everywhere, well....
It'll look much nicer inside the SS box, anyway.
Sam