Landracing Forum
East Coast Timing Association => ECTA General Chat => Topic started by: CoyoteKIA on September 28, 2007, 11:58:34 PM
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I am building a 2005 KIA Spectra that runs in the G/GSS class at Maxton. It has ran every Event this year. And is #15 in the points standings.
I only need a few more MPH to set a Record. What can I do, without a complete teardown? So far the car has a Cold Air Intake, with Ram Air, Header with no Cat, 2" lowering Springs, Ground Effects and 1/2 inch taller Tires. Trying to stay Stock as Possible.
Would like to do this for October Maxton Meet.
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You might get a few mph if the car is waxed to a mirror shine depending on how clean it was when you ran before.
I dont know if this will change your class but the Spectra has a relatively large intake for the radiator. If you could block this off and use multiple fans on the radiator. This will be even better if you can extend the leading edge of the hood to fill the gap.
Many aftermarket ground effects have all sorts of neat holes for lights, intercoolers and other stuff....I would fill and smooth any you could.
You have done all the basics as far as bolt ons....you could upgrade the electrical system (if you could find the components for a Kia) but on a relatively stock motor I can not see that you would gain a great deal until you get other motor work done.
You can pick up a few hp by driving all engines driven accessory from 12 volts. I run an electric water pump, air compressor (shifter), fuel pump and 2x fans from battery power alone...the only thing that the motor provides power for is the ECU and this is because it wont run unless it is done this way.
I have 3 optima yellows that power the stuff but one would work fine for the length of the run. I have a second master battery switch that disconnects the motor charging from powering any of the accessories after the motor starts.
The biggest bang for the buck without having to tear the entire motor apart would be cams. If you pull the head when you change the cam you could have the ports cleaned up for a few more $$ and a few more HP.....other than that I cant see anything that would be really worth the money or time until the motor is pulled and built. Cams alone could make the HP difference you seek….but bigger cams means more lift, more stress with higher pound springs and a higher potential for something to break. Such is racing.
-JH
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You can pick up a few hp by driving all engines driven accessory from 12 volts. I run an electric water pump, air compressor (shifter), fuel pump and 2x fans from battery power alone...the only thing that the motor provides power for is the ECU and this is because it wont run unless it is done this way.
I have 3 optima yellows that power the stuff but one would work fine for the length of the run. I have a second master battery switch that disconnects the motor charging from powering any of the accessories after the motor starts.
-JH
JHNuts, We haven't had a Stator in the Busa motor for 5 years and the GSXR's is missiog also, now I finally know what is slowing us down... :wink:
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1st welcome Randy.Put front runners on the back.
terry
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JHNuts, We haven't had a Stator in the Busa motor for 5 years and the GSXR's is missiog also, now I finally know what is slowing us down...
I tried to disconnect the stator and must of been doing something wrong because every time I would disconnect the stator from the motors electrical chain...even if it was connected to the 3 batteries it would die. I figured that the stator powering the coils and computer would not be a significant HP draw on the motor.
Am I wrong or is it worth it to find out why the motor would die without the stator and run everything off batteries?
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Randy -
I'd try cams and a good dyno tune. I don't know if anyone makes a flash tuner for this, or if someone is doing dyno tuning on them, but that's the logical next step. Tweaking the fuel curve and messing with spark can yield a lot of power on a computer controlled car. Flash tuners are useful, but they are pretty generic by nature. You might go to the Hot Rod forums and PM Dieselgeek. He's the EFI guru who did the set-up on the Maverick that they blew up at LACR in the last issue of HR. He's a pretty sharp hombre and a nice guy (he's been to Maxton and hangs with Keith, so he knows what we do). He REALLY knows what you can accomplish thru the computer.
For cams - don't know who is making them, but try Delta Cams in the Pacific Northwest. They do LOTS of Subies, Mitsus, etc, and may have something for yours. And they're CHEAP! Overhead cams are generally not TOO hard to swap, but I don't know on your engine. If you need a hand, give me a call (see the ECTA website).
Good luck - look for you in October.
Dan
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First Randy, welcome to LSR, and sorry to hijack your thread but we do that a lot here so bear with us
JHNuts, We haven't had a Stator in the Busa motor for 5 years and the GSXR's is missiog also, now I finally know what is slowing us down...
I tried to disconnect the stator and must of been doing something wrong because every time I would disconnect the stator from the motors electrical chain...even if it was connected to the 3 batteries it would die. I figured that the stator powering the coils and computer would not be a significant HP draw on the motor.
Am I wrong or is it worth it to find out why the motor would die without the stator and run everything off batteries?
If it's making electricity it is using HP. The wiring diagram is your friend sometimes, you got rid of the kickstand and tip switch didn't you.
:roll:
I tried to find you at SW, if you are at WF, find us near a $--t brown bike with a home-made fairing #278
Randy, back to you... every motor in LSR benefits from being able to breathe, Head work, cams, big valves, it is hard to find cheap HP unless you do a lot of work yourself. Accept every minute of help anyone offers, 4 heads are better than 2... :-D
Be safe, have fun, go fast...repeat in that order as often as you can
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There is a chip available for the KIA. You could go with a chip and larger throttle body. Both could be swapped back to stock fairly quickly. Maybe an underdrive pully- I would not run it for long but again a fairly quick swap before you go down or swap at the track.
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Without going into the engine, a few simple, possible changes I can think of off hand:
1. if you have a passenger side mirror, get rid of it.
2. if you you're not hitting the cdA:mph wall by the end of the run, see what you can remove weight (better power:weight ratio, the faster you accelerate, the faster you can go)
3. get rid of your accessory belts (A/C, Pwr Steering, if so equipped and it doesn't cause any hassles driving)
Supposedly modern alternators only require a small fraction of a horsepower vs those of old.
4. As noted before, limit the airflow through the engine bay (as long as there no rules that cover that).
5. And as noted before as well, a good dyno tune
6. Make sure your CAI is actually pulling from a cold air zone (and receiving air from a high pressure zone is possible)
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So how did your weekend turn out? I take it the black Kia was yours???