Landracing Forum
Tech Information => Technical Discussion => Topic started by: racergeo on March 23, 2007, 04:05:22 PM
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i am using Timken tapered roller bearings in my lakster. the grease flys outwardly off the bearing because of the taper. my bearings were dry but unworn after only 3 runs. Im using Redline grease so i contacted their chemist who said mix it with a little gear grease to get STP type consitancy so it will flow better and run 1 to3 thousands of clearance for heat expantion. bearing speed will be about 4000 rpm. ANY OTHER IDEAS OR SNAKE OIL TRICKS? THANKS ( ps, i dont want to go to an oil bath system)
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i am using Timken tapered roller bearings in my lakster. the grease flys outwardly off the bearing because of the taper. my bearings were dry but unworn after only 3 runs. Im using Redline grease so i contacted their chemist who said mix it with a little gear grease to get STP type consitancy so it will flow better and run 1 to3 thousands of clearance for heat expantion. bearing speed will be about 4000 rpm. ANY OTHER IDEAS OR SNAKE OIL TRICKS? THANKS ( ps, i dont want to go to an oil bath system)
I got some AMSOIL Series 2000 Synthetic Racing Grease to use:
http://www.synthetic-solutions.com/grease.htm
But I haven't used it yet, so I'm interested to see what others have to say about this also.
c ya,
Sum
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I would start with Timken's web site:
http://www.timken.com/products/bearings/products/TaperedRollerBearings/overview.asp (http://www.timken.com/products/bearings/products/TaperedRollerBearings/overview.asp)
And lubrication:
http://www.timken.com/lubrication/ (http://www.timken.com/lubrication/)
It's not only about the lubrication. Sounds like you are running an open bearing. They have sealed bearings available.
(http://pages.sbcglobal.net/dean4/_images/Timken.JPG)
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We used to have to replace wheel bearings after every meet. We tried a different grease in all eight bearings to try and find what was best. We met up with some snake oil peddlers that suggested taking what ever grease we thought was best and lace it with their product. We tried it and went 7 years with the same bearings. Didn't have to replace them until we pushed back in a lot of water and they immediately rusted. 5000+ wheel rpm. If anyone is interested in our particular materials, pm me.
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richard, something this good every one needs to know. or are you trying to cash in? lol
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I'm definitely not an expert but I eliminated timken bearings not only because the ball bearing kept the lube in but because of rolling resistance. Many are now looking at ceramic bearings. Good Luck
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Dang, if I could ever cash in on anything, would I be that stupid? Rules on the sea are written in blood, rules at B-ville are written in experience and $. Safety rules are a whole different ball game.
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I got some AMSOIL Series 2000 Synthetic Racing Grease to use:
http://www.synthetic-solutions.com/grease.htm
But I haven't used it yet, so I'm interested to see what others have to say about this also.
c ya,
Sum
local puller stopped to visit Art Arfon& he had the jet car that welded a brng to spindle rebuilt & instead of grease he was using oil like a lot of big rigs do- thought it a good idea so thats the system I use. on my al grand nat hubs just made a "O" ringed bolt on cap w/ a lexan sight gage in center & fill plug off ctr. never had any problems- when stock cars quit paying the grand nat spindles & hubs & wheels went to front of my cultivator tractor;;{which carry a lot of wt when applying liquid fert ;though - be it @ low speed}never had any trouble & never packed a wheel brng either..If hub is 1/2 full of synthetic 50 wt oil it would seem to be hard to hurt a brng @ any rpm..heat buildup? cut the 50 wt w/ marvel oil??
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Jeez Richard, wasn't that a burnt up spindle you had at Marlo't last year or am I having a nightmare? p.s. my memory may be distorted from living in the 60's.............
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local puller stopped to visit Art Arfon& he had the jet car that welded a brng to spindle rebuilt & instead of grease he was using oil like a lot of big rigs do- thought it a good idea so thats the system I use. on my al grand nat hubs just made a "O" ringed bolt on cap w/ a lexan sight gage in center & fill plug off ctr. never had any problems- when stock cars quit paying the grand nat spindles & hubs & wheels went to front of my cultivator tractor;;{which carry a lot of wt when applying liquid fert ;though - be it @ low speed}never had any trouble & never packed a wheel brng either..If hub is 1/2 full of synthetic 50 wt oil it would seem to be hard to hurt a brng @ any rpm..heat buildup? cut the 50 wt w/ marvel oil??
Interesting. Thanks for sharing that. My back runs on sealed bearings all the way across. The front might not be that heavy and is running on early ford spindles with Mopar hubs, so I might look into that idea.
For what we are doing I'll bet you could just tap a small fill hole 1/2 way up and fill to it and then plug it.
c ya,
Sum
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Sum, walk across the street and look at the non-driven wheels of most any semi tractor, and probably the trailer wheels, too. It's very common to have "wet seal" bearings on 'em, and they usually have a transparent plastic cover with a line scribed around the face and a center hole with a rubber (?) plug. Visual inspection of oil level is a 2-second task, and adding some lube requires nothing more than pop out the plug, add some goop, and put the plug back in. one quick look and you'll see if you can adapt the concept to your racer.
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Bob, no actually it was a cv joint. Wasn't burned but had some shiny spots on the cages. Everyone said was not a problem so we are still running the same ones. I think it actually was two years ago. Time flies when you are having fun.
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Many of the truck wheel bearings that use oil have special seals. The seals turn inside themselves and not on the spindle. They have a lot of drag. Some standard wheel seals don't hold even heavy oils like 90 wt. gear lube. Some of the older Bonneville bike racers used Vaseline in their wheel bearings. The best thing I have found for heavy load Timkin use in slower speed applications is the old Union chassis F2 grease. It had white lead in it so it is no longer sold. If you can find any white lead a mixture in your regular grease maybe something to try. What ever you try, inspect them often at first. JD's pick of sealed bearing are a good way to go but check the applications for speed and load before buying them.
Harv
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Hi Guys,
For high speed wheel bearing lube, a good choice would be the following stuff:
Kluber Lubrication - IsoFlex NBU 15 :-o
Hochgeshwindigkeitsfet :roll: High Speed Grease :-D
This stuff is good and I have no idea to tell you how to get it. I have had this canister for a very long time.
Not something that I would recommend for the normal 20K mile deals, but perfect for racecars.
I betcha that Pork Pie has a lead on this stuff as it is from Germany. :wink:
Best Regards to All,
HB2
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I use std 3/4 ton chevy oil seals from napa with no leakage problems..-made tractors w/ front axle from pete & 1 from mack w/ 10 bolt al hubs- have the rubber fill dealy & seals are nothing special- just dbl lip seals. on race car hubs - used brass pipe plug for fill as didn't want to come out in heat of battle..russ
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Hi Guys,
For high speed wheel bearing lube, a good choice would be the following stuff:
Kluber Lubrication - IsoFlex NBU 15 :-o
Hochgeshwindigkeitsfet :roll: High Speed Grease :-D
This stuff is good and I have no idea to tell you how to get it. I have had this canister for a very long time.
Not something that I would recommend for the normal 20K mile deals, but perfect for racecars.
I betcha that Pork Pie has a lead on this stuff as it is from Germany. :wink:
Best Regards to All,
HB2
Here is their US distributer.
United States
KL Texas, L.P.
dba Summit Industrial Products
9010 County Road 2120
P.O. Box 13 13 59, Tyler, TX 75713
Tyler TX 75707
Tel: +1-903-5348021
Fax: +1-903-5814376
Send e-mail
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I am with Harold, Kluber is excellent grease for high speed bearings. We used it on our high speed spindles, 10,000 rpm+ and it was the only thing that would keep them running.
Rex
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Thanks for the address. :-D I know that I have had this canister of Kluber product for a very long time. I did not remember where it came from, but since I came up here a long time ago from Texas, that is probably where I got it. 8-) It is superb for high speed applications (high surface speeds) and as you stated it is something that will help to keep CNC spindle bearings alive. Wheel bearings are a dream with this stuff as long as somebody keeps the preload in the correct range. And it doesn't stink either. :lol:
Regards to all, :wink:
HB2