Landracing Forum
Bonneville Salt Flats Discussion => Build Diaries => Topic started by: matmospheric on December 29, 2021, 09:06:16 PM
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Hello there.
I have been considering a streamliner project for some time, and I've decided to pull the trigger. The CAD has reached a point where I'm happy to start cutting tubes and spending money. I wanted to also start a build diary on here so I could post progress and hopefully get some constructive feedback on the project.
I'm building a streamliner car with a 500cc (K class) engine. Naturally aspirated gas, though we may explore a turbo and methanol later.
I've always enjoyed hot-rodding slow cars with small engines. So naturally, it seems like a fun project to take the smallest engine class and try to go as fast as possible. It's more fun to drive a slow car fast than to drive a fast car slow; so why not take the slowest engine class and make it go as fast as possible.
I'm an automotive engineer with some experience racing and fabricating, but I also understand the value of experience and I know these things are often much more difficult than they may seem. So I humbly present my design, and hope for a constructive and fun conversation that will help me navigate the unknowns and, more importantly, the unknown unknowns.
I'll post some more detailed photos later this week and dive into some design specifics.
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What tank is in front of your feet... the best answer is probably intercooler water... not fuel... sealing one firewall is hard enough....
Have you spent time looking at other liners and talking with the guys running them....
Oh and most don't think 200 MPH is a slow car... all the K records except fuel are over 200... maybe small motor car fast
Looking forward to seeing your build :cheers:
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It is a water tank. I?ll be running lines back to a water/water heat exchanger for the engine. I?m hoping I can run those lines inside the frame tubes.
I have chatted with a few of the streamliner guys walking around at Bonneville this year and at El Mirage in October. I stopped by the Bockscar and talked with someone (maybe you?) about the 18? tires. I have lots of pictures and lots of answers, but still many questions.
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An excellent first post and explanation of your project. you already won me over by having your front roll cage hoop tie into the lower frame rail. Half the cars you see that have been coming to Bonneville for years have that wrong. Oh that's right your an engineer :lol:
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If you talked to an ugly old tall guy with a big hat then yea... that was me.... :laugh:
What 500 motor are you thinking about using...
I'm not a fan of open frame tubes at the salt, but lots of folks have them.... just flush them well and watch for rust... with that said, we used the frame tubes of Bockscar for water when it was a K streamliner. We sealed them up when it was converted to Lakester 5 years later. When I cut the tubes open to stretch the car a foot 15 years after that they were surprisingly clean... some light rust dust but no pits.
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Hello there.
I have been considering a streamliner project for some time, and I've decided to pull the trigger. The CAD has reached a point where I'm happy to start cutting tubes and spending money. I wanted to also start a build diary on here so I could post progress and hopefully get some constructive feedback on the project.
I'm building a streamliner car with a 500cc (K class) engine. Naturally aspirated gas, though we may explore a turbo and methanol later.
I've always enjoyed hot-rodding slow cars with small engines. So naturally, it seems like a fun project to take the smallest engine class and try to go as fast as possible. It's more fun to drive a slow car fast than to drive a fast car slow; so why not take the slowest engine class and make it go as fast as possible.
I'm an automotive engineer with some experience racing and fabricating, but I also understand the value of experience and I know these things are often much more difficult than they may seem. So I humbly present my design, and hope for a constructive and fun conversation that will help me navigate the unknowns and, more importantly, the unknown unknowns.
I'll post some more detailed photos later this week and dive into some design specifics.
I guess that would be running on Jim Burkdoll's 33 year old record with the Bluebird. Best of luck to you, Looks like you're off to a great start.
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Really like your concept, looks like you might be thinking about having the rear part of the chassis bolt on to the front as I see you are showing rectangular and square tube for the rear of the chassis. Don't be afraid to add some extra length behind the driver as it will fill up pretty fast and a little longer wheel base is always good for handling. Looks like it is going to be flat bottomed, much easier to fab.
Looking forward to you making your ideas into steel, keep it coming you will get lots of help from the people on this site.
Rex
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What 500 motor are you thinking about using...
Currently looking at using a BMW S1000RR motorcycle engine with valve rockers removed from two cylinders. I might pull the pistons and con rods and add a dummy weight to balance the crank, but I'm trying to keep it as simple as possible for the first iteration, and pulling rocker arms is super easy. That should get rid of the pumping losses in those cylinders.
...looks like you might be thinking about having the rear part of the chassis bolt on to the front as I see you are showing rectangular and square tube for the rear of the chassis. Don't be afraid to add some extra length behind the driver...
Not bolting, I'm welding it all around, it's just easier to mount things to rectangle tubes so that's what I'm going to use in the rear. I have designed a laser cut junction between the round tubes and the rectangles. There is currently lots more room than I think I need, which will probably mean I'll just barely have enough!
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Be sure to leave some extra space above the head in the cage area. Helmets are getting bigger, need clearance by rule above and on the front bar. As drawn, is the cross bar over the knees supporting steering shaft/instruments and such have the ability to swing up? if not you cannot get in and out, in my opinion. You need space for knees, feet to slide forward to clear your head under and in front of the cage. You will need to mock that up with a real driver some way. Been there, done that. (I made mock up with plastic pipe and still ended cutting cage for more space eventually). And I also did the reduce displacement thing by taking pistons out and using bob weights. Works.
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Matt, if we talked tires did I let you jump in to try it for size? We do that a lot unless we are busy...
As Jack said, be careful to build something you can get in and out. Your cage looked plenty big for helmets but I'd leave more room between you and the tank... maybe put the tank in front of the wheels in the nose.
Swing away steering and dash
Did you see or talk to Curt Huntoon, car 717, H/BFL.... he has a great swing away dash and steering set up. He is in Sparks, NV ProtoFab is his company... Not that far from you... bet you could set up a meet and see what he has and how it was done.
Are you trying to make 2022? if so I can tell you you're already behind the power curve... LOL :laugh:
He will be at SpeedWeek... me too
see ya on the salt :cheers:
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Be sure to leave some extra space above the head in the cage area. Helmets are getting bigger, need clearance by rule above and on the front bar. As drawn, is the cross bar over the knees supporting steering shaft/instruments and such have the ability to swing up? if not you cannot get in and out, in my opinion. You need space for knees, feet to slide forward to clear your head under and in front of the cage. You will need to mock that up with a real driver some way. Been there, done that. (I made mock up with plastic pipe and still ended cutting cage for more space eventually). And I also did the reduce displacement thing by taking pistons out and using bob weights. Works.
I had a friend 3D scan me with all my gear on, and I designed the cage to have 3/8" clearance from my helmet from all sides after adding in the SFI roll bar padding. I'm hoping that will be enough. The cross bar that the controls mount to will indeed flip up. There is a cross bar in front of that near my shins that will be stationary.
Di you have any pictures of your bob weights? I was planning on clamping around them with a two-piece aluminum clamp that is the same weight as the heavy end of the connecting rod. I'll retain the con rod bearings under the clamp to maintain the same oil pressure.
I wanted to float this by as an initial design for front suspension. I have both wheels connected together so that when one tire bumps up, the other does as well. I also have it designed with one shock and spring. It seems like this meets the intent of the rule (each sprung wheel needs a damper) although it could be interpreted as "each wheel" needs its own damper even though there is one spring and they are connected together.
I wonder if this suspension approach has been tried? Looking for any feedback, Thanks!
(https://i.imgur.com/PagMk6f.png)
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"Di you have any pictures of your bob weights? I was planning on clamping around them with a two-piece aluminum clamp that is the same weight as the heavy end of the connecting rod. I'll retain the con rod bearings under the clamp to maintain the same oil pressure."
I don't. It was 1982 and that engine and parts long gone. Was a donut of steel machined to take a rod bearing with proper clearances for oil etc. If my memory of balancing things is correct you want all the big end rotating weight and half the reciprocating weight to make a proper bob weight (if you are balancing at 50%). If your parts are light enough, aluminum might be ok. Just is what mass do you need and what density is the material to make the size work.
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I don't think the 1 shock will work... it didn't work in 1984 when we put a Honda motorcycle inside the Bockscar... frame, swingarm, everything but the steering head and forks. That means it had a single rear shock on the swingarm... We added a couple of pinto shocks between the pillow blocks that held the axle and the frame. You can run it by the tech chair in the rule book, but that rule has been there since at least 1978... my oldest rulebook.
The swingarm front or rear is not that odd.... you will want to design in movement limits... and one more shock
Here's a couple of pics of one guys idea...
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I have an idea for a rear axle that I wanted to post here and see if anyone had feedback on. It's somewhat similar to some designs I have seen, so I'm curious if anyone has experience and constructive feedback based on experience.
I have two axles I can have cut down to 8" long and re-splined up to the bearing landing. I can slide these into an internally splined steel sleeve that is split open along one side. I'll then clamp an aluminum sleeve around the steel sleeve to clamp down onto the splines. The steel sleeve and the aluminum sleeve will be connected with a machine key. I can then bolt the sprocket onto one side of the aluminum sleeve and the brake disc onto the other side. Four bearings, two on each side, will be pressed onto the bearing landings. I'll also have two bolts, one on each side, going all the way through the sleeves and the axles as an added security.
I'll have a swingarm that grabs the bearings and attaches the whole thing to the frame. The swingarm will rotate up and down, but both sides will be connected so if one wheel goes up, the other one does as well.
This is certainly way overbuilt for my ~100 horsepower engine, but it seems secure and I have all the tools to make it. I'm also trying to build in future capability to this streamliner in case I want to switch to a faster class in the future.
Let me know your thoughts.
(https://i.imgur.com/gTw4VPH.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/qgKiSg2.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/PWj3u9M.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/Wk6XwhI.png)
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Matt, we use something similar on the lakester. Our axles are keyed, no splines... they are clamped and have a thru bolt as a safety to keep them in place. They work great. I know you are looking for a narrow solution.
Just a question or two... do you have room for the chain based on the drive from the motor or are you using a jackshaft to get the chain in the middle. Have you considered putting the chain outside the tires giving you the ability of having the tires close together, thus making the back of the car narrower.... chain on one side, brake on the other, both outside the tires.
I included a pic of our lakester rear... much like you have drawn, a center section and 2 axles... just a little wider and more spread out than you would want on a liner. The outer housings are where we have the bearings.
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WOW! This is awesome. This is the powerful use of the Landracing forum to advance the sport of land speed racing. Ain't CAD wonderful? When we were designing The Blue Flame 55 years ago, it was paper and pencil drawings (and slide rule calculations). CAD provides detailed communication BEFORE committing to the metal. Now, you can get the expertise of all these guys' literally hundreds of years on the salt. I learned CAD in the years following our 1970 record - and used it to recreate the car in 3D for illustrating the design, from the paper drawings. I wish you the best success with your interesting project. Also, this presentation might inspire more of the same use of CAD to advance knowledge sharing to the "new guys" we need to keep it going on the salt. Looking forward to your follow-up when you get out there.
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Matt, we use something similar on the lakester. Our axles are keyed, no splines... they are clamped and have a thru bolt as a safety to keep them in place. They work great. I know you are looking for a narrow solution.
Just a question or two... do you have room for the chain based on the drive from the motor or are you using a jackshaft to get the chain in the middle. Have you considered putting the chain outside the tires giving you the ability of having the tires close together, thus making the back of the car narrower.... chain on one side, brake on the other, both outside the tires.
I included a pic of our lakester rear... much like you have drawn, a center section and 2 axles... just a little wider and more spread out than you would want on a liner. The outer housings are where we have the bearings.
Yours is one of the build diaries I got inspiration from, so thank you.
I'm running straight from the motor, no jackshaft. There's just barely enough room with the motor shoved to the right. It leads to a slight increase in vehicle width, but it's mostly the cylinder head which is in the shadow of the tires anyway. I did look at putting the sprocket on the outside, but it packages well this way and I like the track width for stability.
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I recognized that cad drawing on the thumbnail of your latest YouTube video! With your videos from Bonneville I figured it wouldn't be long until you caught the bug.
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The frame is coming together. The safety structure is all tack welded together and most of the rest of the frame is cut and in place, though missing lots of triangulation and gussets.
I'm having a hard time finding someone who wants to mount my Goodyear land speed tires to my wheels. Two tire shops don't want to do it for insurance reasons, and one said their machine couldn't do it.
Does anyone have a Los Angeles tire shop they use for Land Speed tires? Bonus if they do high speed balancing.
(https://i.imgur.com/u3AGi2Y.jpg)
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http://www.landracing.com/forum/index.php?topic=15664.msg338220;topicseen#msg338220
Call Nate Jones at Cowboy Tire Signal Hill, CA 562 597 3369 Many racers have got tires from him for years. Tell him the particulars (where you're going to race, class record speeds, etc) and he'll give you details for your tires. I bought my tires from him, he shaved them and delivered them to me on the salt.
He was at SpeedWeek this year and stopped by the radio trailer for a visit (so I know he hasn't retired).
PS Ask him how he happens to have the keys for a battleship.
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http://www.landracing.com/forum/index.php?topic=15664.msg338220;topicseen#msg338220
Call Nate Jones at Cowboy Tire Signal Hill, CA 562 597 3369 Many racers have got tires from him for years. Tell him the particulars (where you're going to race, class record speeds, etc) and he'll give you details for your tires. I bought my tires from him, he shaved them and delivered them to me on the salt.
He was at SpeedWeek this year and stopped by the radio trailer for a visit (so I know he hasn't retired).
PS Ask him how he happens to have the keys for a battleship.
Exactly who I was looking for! I love it when the forums work out perfectly and quickly :)
I called up Nate and he's going to help me out.
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Looking pretty good Matt... what are the dimensions of your box? Inquiring minds always want to know more :laugh
:cheers:
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5tmPkATtM_4
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Good on ya!
You know, FIA has 250 and 350 classes for cars. I realize suggesting new classes is looking for haters, but in this case I think it makes sense. A 250 turbo on fuel could be pretty damned fast.
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Just looked at your video. I had to get my axles, front and rear built before I could design the rest of the car around them. I got them about =February. I did all the work but critical welding and the nose cone that a brother built. Pile of metal on the floor, axles and wheels. Most nights from dinner to 10 or 11 and nearly every weekend. Painted it the day before had to leave for Bonneville with the body disassembled because wouldn't fit in the trailer intact. 6 months. The guys laughing were right. I don't recommend it and you have considerably more skills and resources than I did. Course in 1982 the meet was cancelled after I got out there from Maryland for the big El Nino that also cancelled 1983 so then had some time to work on it more.
In your video you show yourself pulling up out of the tack welded frame. No helmet and maybe an inch to spare. Unless your neck is more flexible than mine, I'd suggest doing that with helmet on and try again as I suggested previously. It still looks tight to me. That aside it looks great and I will enjoy following. Good luck. Go fast/stay safe and look forward to seeing at Speedweek, '22.
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You know, FIA has 250 and 350 classes for cars. I realize suggesting new classes is looking for haters, but in this case I think it makes sense.
And the haters have another theme to go on if the suggestion of 250cc is supported by a Brit.
The SCTA/USFRA rules are robust enough to prevent modified karts turning up on the salt. Bring in an L class for lightest weight build classes and categories and speeds could be 150mph or more. Limit this capacity to special construction builds only perhaps? You may get people on to the first rung of the speed 'ladder'.
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USFRA already has the low rung reigned in.... Malcolm you can bring your Peel Engineering Company P50 over and run it in the 130 Club... or maybe you're a DKW or Messerschmitt KR-175 kind of guy....
No haters here.... I could do a 1/4 liter lakester with one of those little 4 cylinder 4 valve bike motors
:-D :roll: :cheers:
OH... back to subject
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Matt,
Just watched your video and first thanks for the inclusion of our (Duke and myself) lakester in the vid, but next I think that I can help you with your "time management" problem. Pretty simple, 18 hours a day, 7 days a week and when the first Elmo event happens you will be about 1/2 done. I have worked on a very large number of fairly sophisticated mechanical projects ranging from extremely large CNC machine tools to a number of ground up race cars and one thing that I have found is that there is no such thing as a "five minute job". Everything takes at least, as you alluded to, three times longer than you think. And as the project comes closer to being finished more "five minute jobs" appear at which time you start to figure out which of your great ideas you really don't need to do just to make the race. One of the things that happens with projects like this is that you get a lot of the big pieces 90% done and then you bolt them together and it really looks like you have made great progress, don't believe it! So much to do but so little time!
Your engine choice is pretty interesting, a "stock" BMW R1000 is rated at around 220 hp so at best you may get 100 hp out of two cylinders which is probably 20-25 hp down from what can be made with a 500 cc motorcycle 4 cylinder. Not sure that I would want to turn a two cylinder BMW to 14000 rpm, make sure you have good motor mounts.
Really looking forward to watching your progress.
Rex
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Good on ya!
You know, FIA has 250 and 350 classes for cars. I realize suggesting new classes is looking for haters, but in this case I think it makes sense. A 250 turbo on fuel could be pretty damned fast.
I would love to do the FIA 250 class in the future. A quick look for FIA land speed events didn't show anything, but that's a project for a later time anyway.
Just looked at your video. I had to get my axles, front and rear built before I could design the rest of the car around them. I got them about =February. I did all the work but critical welding and the nose cone that a brother built. Pile of metal on the floor, axles and wheels. Most nights from dinner to 10 or 11 and nearly every weekend. Painted it the day before had to leave for Bonneville with the body disassembled because wouldn't fit in the trailer intact. 6 months. The guys laughing were right. I don't recommend it and you have considerably more skills and resources than I did. Course in 1982 the meet was cancelled after I got out there from Maryland for the big El Nino that also cancelled 1983 so then had some time to work on it more.
In your video you show yourself pulling up out of the tack welded frame. No helmet and maybe an inch to spare. Unless your neck is more flexible than mine, I'd suggest doing that with helmet on and try again as I suggested previously. It still looks tight to me. That aside it looks great and I will enjoy following. Good luck. Go fast/stay safe and look forward to seeing at Speedweek, '22.
I tried with a helmet and SFI padding zip tied in. The frame was designed around a 3D scan of me in all my gear. It's tight, but I fit.
Matt,
Just watched your video and first thanks for the inclusion of our (Duke and myself) lakester in the vid, but next I think that I can help you with your "time management" problem. Pretty simple, 18 hours a day, 7 days a week and when the first Elmo event happens you will be about 1/2 done. I have worked on a very large number of fairly sophisticated mechanical projects ranging from extremely large CNC machine tools to a number of ground up race cars and one thing that I have found is that there is no such thing as a "five minute job". Everything takes at least, as you alluded to, three times longer than you think. And as the project comes closer to being finished more "five minute jobs" appear at which time you start to figure out which of your great ideas you really don't need to do just to make the race. One of the things that happens with projects like this is that you get a lot of the big pieces 90% done and then you bolt them together and it really looks like you have made great progress, don't believe it! So much to do but so little time!
Your engine choice is pretty interesting, a "stock" BMW R1000 is rated at around 220 hp so at best you may get 100 hp out of two cylinders which is probably 20-25 hp down from what can be made with a 500 cc motorcycle 4 cylinder. Not sure that I would want to turn a two cylinder BMW to 14000 rpm, make sure you have good motor mounts.
Really looking forward to watching your progress.
Rex
If I was putting money on it, I would bet that I am not finished by May ElMo, or even June. If I aim for being done by Speed Week, I'll probably be done this time next year. but if I aim for May El Mirage, I might be done by this year's Speed Week. I've been through my share of race car projects, and I know the 80/20 rule pretty well. I also know that projects fill all available time. It doesn't matter if I don't make El Mirage, or Speed Week 2022 for that matter. I'll be finished when I'm finished. The schedule is all made up with no consequences. Honestly, if I just get a naked rolling chassis to El Mirage in May for tech inspection, I'll be stoked.
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I have a new build video up if anyone is interested. Constructive criticism is most welcome: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ebYRigOu1g
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Mat,
Love your new video! Your method of frame fab really shows the advantages of using CAD to draw it up as it has allowed you to have all of the tube precut on a laser CNC cutter and they all fit together! and perfectly!! Really like the locater notch. Very cool. I am glad that you are reconsidering the diagonal tube at the rear to intersect where the second roll bar meets the upper frame rail as provides a good load path and really strengthens the frame. I assume that you are planning to weld in some sort of spool through the rear rectangular frame rail where it bolts together to keep the tubes from crushing. I hope that you are not planning to use the upset style threaded inserts that you have used elsewhere as these are, in my mind, useless. If you have ever had one start to turn after it was installed you will agree with me. You may want to also provide some horizontal diagonals on the rear part of the frame behind the rear wheels especially if you at some time decide to run a large vertical stabilizer, as it can generate pretty large forces if you get into some sort of side ways position at speed. On your square tube structure in the front to carry your water tank you may want to make the top tubes removable so that you can insert the water tank from the top.
Keep up the great work, learning great stuff all of the time from your vids.
Rex
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I took a quick look at the rules and I guess a Dash-15 suit may be all that is required. If it was me (and it's not) I'd go for a Dash-20 any way. The faster you go and the slipperyer(sp?) you are, the farther you might travel before anyone can get to you in an emergency. And, unlike a roadster, the longer it may take to get you out. They're a little thicker, but in your driving position it might be an asset. I've preferred a two-piece as you can function with just the bottom before and after a run.
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Well, Rex beat me to suggesting the notion of having an anti-crush bushing or block for the bolts in the rear frame bolted joints. But beyond that, I would be rather leery of that style connection in the first place--too much difficulty with alignment, tolerances, interface fitment, corrosion, and wear. Some sort of flanged connection would seem to be simpler, more robust, and easier to live with.
Am waiting to see what you have in mind for the rear frame to control what, at this point, looks to be very limber in roll rotation.
With you in the frame, there appears to be little space for the pedal arrangement.
Front suspension sub-frame is, again, BOLTED(?) to the main frame? Using thinwall tubular members?
Could you show an example of the CAD drawing of a tube element as would be needed for laser cutting?
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Mat,
Love your new video! Your method of frame fab really shows the advantages of using CAD to draw it up as it has allowed you to have all of the tube precut on a laser CNC cutter and they all fit together! and perfectly!! Really like the locater notch. Very cool. I am glad that you are reconsidering the diagonal tube at the rear to intersect where the second roll bar meets the upper frame rail as provides a good load path and really strengthens the frame. I assume that you are planning to weld in some sort of spool through the rear rectangular frame rail where it bolts together to keep the tubes from crushing. I hope that you are not planning to use the upset style threaded inserts that you have used elsewhere as these are, in my mind, useless. If you have ever had one start to turn after it was installed you will agree with me. You may want to also provide some horizontal diagonals on the rear part of the frame behind the rear wheels especially if you at some time decide to run a large vertical stabilizer, as it can generate pretty large forces if you get into some sort of side ways position at speed. On your square tube structure in the front to carry your water tank you may want to make the top tubes removable so that you can insert the water tank from the top.
Keep up the great work, learning great stuff all of the time from your vids.
Rex
Glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for the feedback. I will be welding inserts into the rectangular tube and running bolts all the way through. definitely no rivet nuts there. I'm sure you're right with the sideways tail stiffness. I haven't put much thought into that part, it's just a quick sketch. I had planned on putting the water tank in from the bottom. the two top tubes are there to direct the load from the front suspension carrier directly into the safety structre side tubes. I have a bracket that I didn't show that does the same thing on the bottom but outside of the water tank area. It will stiffen the structure and add a lot more area for fasteners.
Well, Rex beat me to suggesting the notion of having an anti-crush bushing or block for the bolts in the rear frame bolted joints. But beyond that, I would be rather leery of that style connection in the first place--too much difficulty with alignment, tolerances, interface fitment, corrosion, and wear. Some sort of flanged connection would seem to be simpler, more robust, and easier to live with.
Am waiting to see what you have in mind for the rear frame to control what, at this point, looks to be very limber in roll rotation.
With you in the frame, there appears to be little space for the pedal arrangement.
Front suspension sub-frame is, again, BOLTED(?) to the main frame? Using thinwall tubular members?
Could you show an example of the CAD drawing of a tube element as would be needed for laser cutting?
I think you convinced me to close off one side and add a flange perpendicular to the length of the car. I should be able to weld in a simple gusseted flange that will allow for another fastener on each corner, but also fully constrain the front to the rear on all three directions. I haven't packeged everything in the rear area, so I am also waiting to see what I do with rear stiffness :)
I have CAD modeled my pedal assembly. It's tight but looks like it fits. There is a small chance that the brake master cylinder protrudes into the water tank area slightly. in that case, I will modify the water tank. I really need to get a seat in and check actual fit. And yes, the front will be bolted, using several fasteners and reinforced plates. I'll have a better design to show in the future. I think it will be okay, but I will definitely do the calculations.
I'm not sure I understand your question about the tube element. Can you clarify?
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I'm not sure I understand your question about the tube element. Can you clarify?
I think it would be educational to have an example of what the laser-cut guys need to work from to do their thing. I assume you sent them drawings of a series of the various individual parts which were needed. Or, did they "dismantle" your complete frame drawing themselves?
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Hi Matt,
I also love the video. Top shelf work, and in a home garage. Excellent. Hope to see your efforts at ElMo soon. Also, been a fan of the S600, great fun.
Skip Pipes
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I have 4 of the little "Don Garlits" top fuel front wheels and tires. Might help your packaging if they are legal. I think they are on a couple cars.
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Matt, just stumbled upon your Youtube channel. Reading the comments on their is a hoot. Welcome.
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I have 4 of the little "Don Garlits" top fuel front wheels and tires. Might help your packaging if they are legal. I think they are on a couple cars.
I have one on my sidecar. Was told at inspection that although they were originally good for 300mph now that they are all pretty darn old, 200mph is the limit.
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It's been a while since I've updated this build here, but the car is getting lots of parts added and is starting to resemble a naked streamliner. The engine is installed and I finished up the steering. I'm hoping to have it in a condition to pass tech inspection at ElMo in June. It won't be running, but it'll be good to see what Tech says.
Couple of recent videos on the build:
https://youtu.be/cxFvodZKMjE
https://youtu.be/OFo0z-1HRzc
(https://i.imgur.com/FDsfll3.jpg)
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Looking forward to seeing it in person!
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Mat,
Great progress! Looking at your weld on the front swing arm, please tell me that you ground the cad plating off before you welded things up. Looking at the welds it doesn't look like you did. Not good practice,big of chance of polluting the weld and reducing its strength.
I think your steering is very innovative and I like that you installed a tie rod between the wheels as it is not immediately obvious that you need one except it really makes a strong set up. Looking forward to seeing the car at the salt. Also like the way your steering bar and cross member really folds out of the way for getting in and out.
Rex
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Mat,
Great progress! Looking at your weld on the front swing arm, please tell me that you ground the cad plating off before you welded things up. Looking at the welds it doesn't look like you did. Not good practice,big of chance of polluting the weld and reducing its strength.
It's yellow zinc. I cleaned up the zinc in the welded area. What you're seeing is the zinc in the heat-affected zone outside of the weld. I should have cleaned it farther out from the weld because zinc is toxic to weld. Not great on my part, but the weld is solid.
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Glad I found the build on here too. I just came across your videos last week and watched all of them on the liner. Great build, and great videos. I like the Slow Car Fast title as I'm running a Volkswagen Karmann Ghia...Slow car trying to go fast.
Mark
Ortiz Family Racing
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Congrats on the shakedown Matt! Car looked good under power. The "civilian" comment still slay me! Cheap entertainment!!!