Landracing Forum
Tech Information => Technical Discussion => Topic started by: tauruck on October 31, 2018, 03:07:30 PM
-
Is this a viable option for my 351c motor?.
I can go thicker than what's commercially available
and was thinking maybe incorporating the caps into
the plate like you find on the modern motors.
Have the block align bored etc.
Just a thought and you all said there are no dumb questions right?. :cheers:
-
(http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1005564/fullsize/lylegirdle.jpg)
Says it's from "72 GTS 351C OC Engine Rebuild - Page 1" on forum.grantorinosport.org (http://forum.grantorinosport.org) but you have to be a member to get it.
Mike
-
Very robust. Very good. :-)
-
Is that a yes????.
Thanks guys. The dude with the ally is waiting for me to reply. :cheers:
-
Al Eshenbaugh's early Chrysler on 90+ % girdle looks like your top photo mills the main caps for a .035 clamp load no align boring HE cemented the block on nitro and/or met we left some water for the block we are going to run on blown gas
-
Better to overbuild than to rebuild. :cheers:
-
(http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1005564/fullsize/lylegirdle.jpg)
Says it's from "72 GTS 351C OC Engine Rebuild - Page 1" on forum.grantorinosport.org (http://forum.grantorinosport.org) but you have to be a member to get it.
Mike
Thanks Mike. :cheers:
-
Mike,
Ford blocks, both OEM and aftermarket are notorious for "flexing" when using "power adders".
In addition to some sort of "girdle", consider filling the block water jackets (all the way, or perhaps leaving 1" or so open at the top) with either RokBlock or hydraulic cement. Really stiffens up the block. BUT, you MUST leave room for expansion with hydraulic cement, as it expands as it cures. Both methods distort the block, so plan on final machining afterward.
:cheers:
Retireyboy
-
Thanks so much. I'll need a lot of help on building this motor.
The only "weak" link is the block but it's the Australian thick wall casting.
I haven't had any news on the billet yet. I guess they are deciding if they
really want to cut the piece required out of a full size plate for some crazy
man with a dream!!!!!
ARP everything. Crower crank and custom rods. Ferrea valves, springs and related.
All Titanium components. I guess I'm as lucky as George P is rich. :-D :-D :-D
-
AL's is fabricated out of 1"x2" metal Bar welded then trued and fit on the mill.
-
Ford, not V8
-
I have to do what it takes. This is a one shot deal.
Thanks John. God Bless.
-
Will a 4" thick plate do the trick or can I go thinner (80mm)?.
-
Back in the 80's I built a lot of Clevo's in Aus & had a reputation for affordable fast survivers. On all the race engines I used 4 bolt steel main caps that were made, installed & machined by Lynx Engineering in Sydney. Four of my engines were in race boats, one was in my hydroplane, three were turbo'd & ran the notorious bridge to bridge race that is over one hour long with a brick on the gas pedal. One of them would even run the boat race on saturday & then the ski race on sunday. None ever had a block failure.
Sid.
-
Sid, that's what my mate Derek keeps telling me.
4 bolt mains are rare here in SA but I can find the material
if I know what to get?.
Thanks for always telling it like it is. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
-
It's been a while :roll: but the main cap register in the block was left the same & the outer stud holes were vertical like a BBC & we only did the center three. I believe the stud kit we used was 4 bolt BBC. You can probably come up with a machinist to whittle some out for you & then align bore the whole mess.
Build a crank scraper in your pan, it's a must have item for the long haul & fix the crappy Clevo oil supply problem.
Sid.
-
I took a quick look at that girdle...Then glanced at my Index 745 and my arms started to hurt. Thank you to whoever invented the CNC machining center. :cheers:
-
Build a crank scraper in your pan, it's a must have item for the long haul & fix the crappy Clevo oil supply problem.
x 2
-
Sid, that's what my mate Derek keeps telling me.
4 bolt mains are rare here in SA but I can find the material
if I know what to get?.
Thanks for always telling it like it is. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Mike;
I'd use 2024-T3 if you can find it. A 4" wrought plate might not be T3 but something close to that heat treatment.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
-
Thanks everyone. Going to can the girdle idea and go with 4 bolt mains.
Sid knows the Aussie 351C and the blocks are way tougher than the thin wall
US casting. The Oiling thing is a done deal. First thing I sorted. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
BTW Neil, I checked the data sheet on that material. Greek to me but I know someone :wink:
-
2024 is aluminum, I'd be inclined to stick to steel on an iron block.
Sid.
-
D'oh... you're right, Sid. I'm too used to aluminum blocks. (Lame excuse)
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ