Landracing Forum

Tech Information => Steering - Suspension - Rear End => Topic started by: Ted Hlokoff on May 23, 2014, 05:17:44 PM

Title: Brake block off
Post by: Ted Hlokoff on May 23, 2014, 05:17:44 PM
Removing my front calipers from my 99 Viper.  To keep my dual master cylinder in the car what is my best method?

I was thinking that running the brakeline into a remote reservoir half full of brake fluid would work?

Ted

Title: Re: Brake block off
Post by: Stainless1 on May 23, 2014, 06:06:33 PM
cap it after the proportioning valve?  Just a thought. Don't know much about new fangled cars  :roll:
Title: Re: Brake block off
Post by: Ted Hlokoff on May 23, 2014, 07:43:00 PM
Thankfully this is NOT ABS 

You're saying just plug the front brakelines.  Remove the spring from the proportioning valve so full pressure goes to the rear brakes?
Title: Re: Brake block off
Post by: Milwaukee Midget on May 23, 2014, 08:14:43 PM
I'd be tempted to just drop the $140.00 and get a Tilton single.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3507

Title: Re: Brake block off
Post by: 4-barrel Mike on May 23, 2014, 08:22:59 PM
If I was doing it (and I may),  it seems that the simplest way would be to disconnect and block at the master cylinder, assuming that it is accessible.

Mike
Title: Re: Brake block off
Post by: manta22 on May 23, 2014, 08:37:42 PM
Removing my front calipers from my 99 Viper.  To keep my dual master cylinder in the car what is my best method?

I was thinking that running the brakeline into a remote reservoir half full of brake fluid would work?

Ted



Ted;

If you do that with a single master cylinder the brake pedal will go all the way to the floor; the fluid will be compressing (slightly) the air in the reservoir and not applying pressure to the rear pads. With a dual cylinder, just do this:

Leave the calipers in and remove the pads. Cap both front brake lines but don't let air into those lines. If you do, loosen each cap while the brake pedal is pushed down to bleed the air out. Tighten the cap and that's all there is to it.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
Title: Re: Brake block off
Post by: Ted Hlokoff on May 23, 2014, 11:14:19 PM
OK, I should be able to just screw plugs into the proportioning valve.  I thought that would just made the pedal solid and not allow any rear pressure.  I thought I would probably need to go to a single master for just the rear lines. 

Thank you.  I'll find some plugs or cap off the lines.  I don't need to remove the proportioning spring?
Title: Re: Brake block off
Post by: manta22 on May 24, 2014, 12:37:23 AM
Ted;

You'll probably have more than enough rear brake to lock the rear wheels on salt, even with the proportioning valve as-is. BTW, a "proportioning valve" is really a pressure limiting valve for the rear hydraulic brake line. A balance bar with two master cylinders really does adjust the F/R braking proportion.

Regards, Neil   Tucson, AZ
Title: Re: Brake block off
Post by: jl222 on May 24, 2014, 11:11:25 AM

  Why are you removing the brakes.  The rear tires will just slide if you need to stop fast.
  My cousin had a Studebaker with just rear brakes. After a short tune up blast away from the track at El Mirage. he complained that the brakes were not working. Well they were working but just sliding the tires.
  Like just using rear brakes on motorcycle, will stop but not well.

      JL222