Landracing Forum
Tech Information => Technical Discussion => Topic started by: tallguy on December 19, 2013, 12:58:56 AM
-
A few months ago, I learned of a company that serves the
bicycle racing community by treating new chains so they have
less internal friction. This is done by removing the original
lubricant and running the chain under load to "wear off" any
microscopic rough spots (burnishing, perhaps?). The chain
is then re-lubricated and tested for how much power it takes
to run it at a certain speed and load. A significant improvement
results, as shown by the tests (before AND after treatment, one
may assume).
I don't know the name of the company, and please remember that
they serve the bicycle community, not (to my knowledge, anyway)
the motorcycle or automobile community. But since money talks,
maybe something could be arranged . . .
-
So are you thinking a timing chain?
-
Since Chris mentioned timing chains, I'll throw this out for y'all to ponder:
"Silent" chains, such as Morse Hy-Vo, have fundamentally zero internal friction! See Morse's website for depiction of how the links roll against each other, as opposed to the pivoting movement of a roller chain's links/axles. I suspect, though, that chain-to-sprocket friction exceeds that of a roller chain (I've been unsuccessful at finding typical values).
-
This is done by removing the original
lubricant and running the chain under load to "wear off" any
microscopic rough spots (burnishing, perhaps?).
I have been doing this to my chain for three years now. Perhaps that's why I went faster this year!
Cabin Fever
Tom
-
Sorry to hear about the Cabin fever.
It must drive you nuts.
What chain lube do you use after prepping the chain?.
-
"Silent" chains, such as Morse Hy-Vo, have fundamentally zero internal friction!
Zero? Really? Maybe less than round pins, but side plate friction isn't changed.
You would think that the best chain to use would be what is on the back of a MotoGP bike. Yamaha uses D.I.D chain.
D.I.D X-RING® IS THE WORLD’S LOWEST FRICTION CHAIN
Chain life isn't critical here.
When I was racing enduro karts in an hour race we used a chain oiler, and the chain looked as good at the end of the race as the start. (I went to races that had as many as 300 karts and oil on the track was never a problem.)
I'm amazed that no one uses a chain oiler. A total loss system won't cut it today, and fabricating a closed guard would be some work. It would keep out the contaminants, lubricate the sprockets and cool the chain.
-
Sorry to hear about the Cabin fever.
It must drive you nuts.
What chain lube do you use after prepping the chain?.
I use DID motocross 520 chain and use whatever chain lube happens to be with me. I tried Motul this year, applied with a brush, and it made a heck of a mess but probably worked well. The most important thing is after the runs. I wash the chain in solvent a couple of times, then hot soap and water, then WD40, then pack it away in oil until the next season. Once I didn't do that - - the chain was almost solid by the next spring.
-
... Zero? Really? Maybe less than round pins, but side plate friction isn't changed...
If we ignore side friction, a Hy-Vo chain truly displays effectively-zero friction, since no two pieces slide against each other during chain "bend"- they merely "rock" against each other.
As for side plate friction- keep in mind that any friction force is proportional to the normal force. The normal force on side plates (a vector parallel to the shaft centerlines) is insignificant (would only exist due to sprockets not in line).
-
Tallguy,
I ask your original post on another forum so if they have any info on the company I will post it. Thanks for the heads up, never thought about the possibility of a gain there short of lots of lube.