Landracing Forum
Tech Information => Technical Discussion => Topic started by: Ron Gibson on November 20, 2013, 02:11:08 PM
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DrMayf posted the link to an interesting video on Landspeed email.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=noO16P5vSwQ
What are opinions on what can be done to de-aireate oil other than baffles in the oil tank, which, looking at the video, doesn't seem to work as thought? The amount of air in the oil is very scary.
Ron
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It's truly amazing the number of vehicles and the number of years they've continued to run without their equipment!
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Here's an inline air separator. http://www.spintric.com/
Its built by ARE; they do many very nice cast pans and complete dry sump systems.
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For the past 5 seasons, we have run our record-holding rear engine modified roadster (800+ hp small block Chevy) with a circular Patterson oil tank as is commonly used in oval track and sprint cars with no problems evidenced from aerated oil. These tanks are well proven. You do need to size to your engine's needs.
That said, I am building a new rectangular, flat top oil tank to help with some packaging problems, and will deaerate via two Oberg 6" filters mounted on top of the tank's lid. Each filter is connected to a -12 return line from the dry sump pump. Our engine builder, Keith Dorton of Automotive Specialists, uses this system on his dyno oil tank with great success. The dyno cell tank has a clear plexiglass insert on the front so the oil can be observed during testing. The filter is similar to one half of a regular Oberg filter with a 115 micron screen and a plate that welds on to the tank lid.
Go to http://obergfilters.com/ click on Buy Online, then select Other Products. Scroll down a bit and you'll see the dry sump filter.
vic
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One of the most effective "in tank" de- aerators is a roll of screen rolled up and inserted vertically in the oil tank. The air bubbles will adhere to the screen and go out through the tank breather and the deaerated oil will go to the bottom when the pressure pump inlet should be. Oil tanks should be tall and narrow.
Rex
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One of the most effective "in tank" de- aerators is a roll of screen rolled up and inserted vertically in the oil tank. The air bubbles will adhere to the screen and go out through the tank breather and the deaerated oil will go to the bottom when the pressure pump inlet should be. Oil tanks should be tall and narrow.
Rex
My experience is similar to that of Rex. Have run a lot of Cosworth engines.
Cosworth's specs for oil tanks:
1/ Tall
2/ Round, vertically
3/ Tangential oil entry near top of tank
4/ Oil outflow from a cone section at bottom of tank
5/ Center screen/perforated tube de-aeration tube with LARGE breather to recovery tank
6/ Oil feed lines to be as short as possible, and large enough in diameter to provide "adequate cold flow".
This style of tank typically works well without mechanical de-aeration, UNLESS, the scavenge out from the engine contains large volumes of air. The shape of the tank combined with the "swirl effect" from tangential oil entry tends to naturally de-aerate the oil.
In my experience, gear style pumps pass more air than lobe and rotor style pumps, something it's useful to be aware of.
I also have experience with cars where the oil tank was fabricated to "fit" in a given space, was an irregular shape and perhaps a bit on the small side for oil volume. We always had oil feed related engine failures with those cars/engines, until somebody (usually me) had a s***-fit to provide mechanical de-aeration. And then, the blow-ups stopped. Once I was told that after my s***-fit the engines were afraid of me, but I don't think that was the real problem.
:cheers:
Fordboy
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This is my version. The return is tangential.
Feed and return are -16 fittings.
There is a staggered three plate system for aeration.
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The baffle plates.