Landracing Forum
East Coast Timing Association => ECTA General Chat => Topic started by: TurboCat on May 18, 2013, 09:44:09 PM
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What would be a reasonable expectation from a 1250 conversion Sportster with appropriate gearing making in the vicinity of 110hp? This '07 would have to run M/PP I'm guessing because some of the stock components have been upgraded (tires, wheels, forks, exhaust, ect.). I would like to make the trip this year to familiarize myself for a serious run next year in P/PP 1000 using the same bike.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/Last%20Sportster%20build/lastSportsterbuild-round2002_zpsae4e665e.jpg)
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1250cc Sportster with a mild worked engine, good pipe, good carb set up, geared correctly should go mid to high 140-s mph in the paved mile. In order to run production, it has to be completely production appearing including belt drive. I suggest you get a rule book and read it 3 times ... then read it again. Production rules don't allow much deviation.
Joe
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1250cc Sportster with a mild worked engine, good pipe, good carb set up, geared correctly should go mid to high 140-s mph in the paved mile. In order to run production, it has to be completely production appearing including belt drive. I suggest you get a rule book and read it 3 times ... then read it again. Production rules don't allow much deviation.
Joe
You misunderstand...if I come this year it will be with the 1250 and will have to run Modified...next year will be the real test when I return with the bike in Production trim in the 1000cc class. Yes I have the rulebook and understand it fairly well...that was the reasoning behind modifying the stock exhaust system I had lying around for next season. This bike is an '07 efi model with plans to run a 68T/32T combo gearing...calculators and theory say it should suffice, but we all know the real world sometimes dictates otherwise.
It's good to hear you think it capable...looking forward to giving it a go! :cheers:
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I'm not following?
How are you going to return 1250cc conversion back to a less than 1000cc engine? Engine swap?
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You mentioned 110 HP. If you are going to run in 1000cc with that bottom end you have to go to barrels from an 883 ... has to match up with 883 small valve heads. That is a tough combination to get any power out of. With that combination running stock exhaust, I would think that it would come out in the 80 HP range. The 1000cc production bike we ran awhile back was on an XB9 platform and used the short stroke crank.
Joe
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Hi Turbocat,
If you are ever near Lawrenceburg, TN stop in and say hi. We don't play in your league, we mess around with small bore 2 strokes.
Wilmington is everything its touted to be. Absolutely great track, town, restaurants and accomodations. The ECTA has its stuff together, only Bonneville surpasses it.
John Ritter
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Thanks guys - Maybe I can clear this up...I'm in the process of converting the bike from 883 to 1250 atm which is my daily ride. Hammer Performance is doing the machine work on some extra cylinders/heads I sent and it will be a virtual clone of their '07 dyno mule. http://www.hammerperf.com/dynoroom.shtml
I missed the opportunity last year to attend Bonneville with my buddy Jason Sarratt who runs a turbocharged sidecar Sportster...
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/Turbo%20install/ybuty4eb.jpg)
I so wanted to bring my turbo'd 883, but the trip proved to be just too much/far for me logistically. Not being much of a spectator I scrapped the trip entirely, but the itch remains.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/Turbo%20install/sidemountplate004.jpg)
Meanwhile, I have been talking with Dan and Aaron at Hammer about my plans for the 1000cc build. Wilmington is very doable for me distance wise and I decided to get the ball rolling while I still have my health. Aaron will be doing custom slugs which will bring displacement out to 997cc and will be machining the 883 heads to match the new bore size. Once completed this motor will not be in any fashion streetable...it will just appear to be so. Aaron was on the crew for a similar bike in 2002 at Bonneville and he has a good idea what will be needed. Horsepower levels of the 1000cc motor are unknown atm as this will be out of the realm of common builds, but I can tell you it will be pushing all it is capable of given the constraints we have to deal with. Just to be clear, yes I will be using the current bike for this venture...it will be using a different top-end and the chassis will be put back to production status.
@ John - I used to spend a great deal of time at Lawrenceburg at Jim Butler's dragstrip when he still operated it...good times.
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We hit the track several Friday nights each summer for the test & tune sessions. Fun little track and real laid back.
Just a thought and maybe I am confusing classes with your bike. There are very strict new rules about overbore. Now understand, I don't know HD engine sizes but "if" I am correct (very possibly wrong) but a 883 can not be bored in production class. We use to be able to go to class size plus .020". If I am screwing up what applies to your application just ignore what I am saying.
John Ritter
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We hit the track several Friday nights each summer for the test & tune sessions. Fun little track and real laid back.
Just a thought and maybe I am confusing classes with your bike. There are very strict new rules about overbore. Now understand, I don't know HD engine sizes but "if" I am correct (very possibly wrong) but a 883 can not be bored in production class. We use to be able to go to class size plus .020". If I am screwing up what applies to your application just ignore what I am saying.
John Ritter
I believe that '020" reference is for clean up purposes in those cases of cylinders being at the maximum class displacement. If an overbore is not allowed for Production bikes I would be shocked...this same type of bike set a P/PP 1000 record in 2001 at Bonneville @ 139mph and change...it was a 883 with XR1000 pistons. Maybe someone else can chime in on the subject. By rules a 883 has to compete in the 1000 class...it would have no chance against say a Buell if not for an equal displacement allowance. I can find no reference to overbore limitations for Production motorcycles in the rulebook, tho mine is a 2012. It just states "Any performance modifications must be out of view".
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I think you are going to have to reread the rule book. They screwed it up good. You might use the search feature in Bonneville General Chat or maybe the Rules section. I only mentioned this in my last post because I thought you were thinking of doing it the old way. If I am passing along correct info as I think I am, you have time to rethink your project. We use to be able to go to class size plus .020" as you said but now Production cannot even be bored (I think)(??)
I hope what I an telling you is correct PLEASE triple check me, it is meant to help so if I'm wrong. I apologize.
John Ritter
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OK guys, stop fretting... here is how I understand the rules.... any motor can be bored to the class limit... the rule change has to do with going past the class limit for a clean up overbore of .5mm or .020 inch. The rule change says you can still go past the class limit only if your stock bore + the .020 puts you over. If you bored it to the limit, you can't have the extra .020 that would put you past the class limit.
Production does not get the over the limit bore at all, but boring to the limit is allowed.
So bore your 883 to 1000, but don't let it measure 1001 or you will be in 1350 class.
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That was my understanding as well, but the question un-asked is usually the one that bites you. :-D
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The way I read it, the PP class rules make it clear.You can not increase the engine size beyond the class window it originally fits. So if you have a 883; it fits the 1000cc class, so do what you want on the bore as long as you don't violate the 1000cc limit for the class.
I agree with the .020 overbore rule as written; it only applies when original "OEM" is already at the class cc limit, but that has nothing to do with this engine, as far as I can tell.
139+ MPH for an open bike will be a tall order, the class record now is 144.626 MPH by a Buell. The aero advantage of the Buell makes one heck of a hill to climb for a open bike.
Rouse
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If you are planning on running the stock looking black/gray sportster in one of your pictures, the tach/speedo setup is just like the one I had on my late '99 FXDX. You will not be able to get anything close to a good tuck trying to see over the gauges. Since I was running modified, I got a flat bracket and cut that lying speedo off to see around the tach.
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If you are planning on running the stock looking black/gray sportster in one of your pictures, the tach/speedo setup is just like the one I had on my late '99 FXDX. You will not be able to get anything close to a good tuck trying to see over the gauges. Since I was running modified, I got a flat bracket and cut that lying speedo off to see around the tach.
I thought he was talking about running P-PP, If so, the gauges have to be OEM and in the original location.
P-PP is tough on open bikes, especially if they are styled for looks and not aero.
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A Harley styled for looks and not aero.. Ma say it ain't so. While I loved my now demolished FXDX, The tach setup was like the one pictured and setup on my Triumph T-100 came similarly equiped. I haven't had a Sporty since my '94 883, so I have no idea if the two guage is stock on any of them. My FXDX was designated a Dyna Sport - insert laugh here; but it was a dependable friend that was defeated by a Ford Ranger that pulled out & stopped in an intersection. Apparently I have limited aero as well.
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if you want to run P/PP 1000 .... Buell XB9 Fireball is the only way to go. That chin fairing plus the stock exhaust with a "Drummer" could get the record. An open Sportster with a belt drive ... really tough row to hoe.
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I would second the Buell if your looking to make things easier. It does add to the challenge to go with the Sportster, so maybe in the end that would be much more satisfying accomplishment.
Heck I ran a FXSE with front controls ( because that was the way it came), that was a ride.
Sportsters do have a long and impressive history on the salt, so why not give it a go. I think it's cool, at least they are still in production.
Rouse
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there are gearing options for the belt final drive. I make trans pulleys up to 34t [but think the xl will only accommodate a 32t maybe a 33t.] then there's the 55 tooth international rear pulley.
revolution makes engine pulleys, both revolution and bandit make primary chains.
now you just need the power!
my record holding p/pp-1350-4, X1 white lightning has no engine work at all, we did everything with gearing, oils, bearings and riding positions. however the biggest help came from mother nature and a awesome tailwind!
I think its got 150mph in it if the conditions are right and I do my job. got to go into the motor for 160mph. for sure!
no matter what we are having way to much fun!
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What does the -4 mean in the class designation? and what bike did you run in the 2000 and 3000 class?
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What does the -4 mean in the class designation? and what bike did you run in the 2000 and 3000 class?
-4 means 4 stroke as opposed to 2 strokers
We can bump up engine classes at ECTA
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Simple explanation: I get it now.
Never saw a 2 cycle pushrod motor though :|
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ransome
the xl engine, 883, 1100, 1200, as well as the Buells [1986 TO 1990, 4 speed XL / 1991 to 2002 5 speed XL-Buell] all use the same stroke. they change the factory displacement with piston / cylinder sizes. the 1250 kit mentioned uses aftermarket cylinders for that extra 50cc.
all you got to do is remove and install the size cylinders you want for different displacements.
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A 883 weighs 3 # more than the 1200 rolling of the showroom floor. The difference is the wall thickness of the cylinders.
You bore 3#s of material out of the cylinders to covert to 1200cc's.
SCTA requires the use of OEM cylinders for the PP class engines.
Rouse
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there are gearing options for the belt final drive. I make trans pulleys up to 34t [but think the xl will only accommodate a 32t maybe a 33t.] then there's the 55 tooth international rear pulley.
revolution makes engine pulleys, both revolution and bandit make primary chains.
now you just need the power!
my record holding p/pp-1350-4, X1 white lightning has no engine work at all, we did everything with gearing, oils, bearings and riding positions. however the biggest help came from mother nature and a awesome tailwind!
I think its got 150mph in it if the conditions are right and I do my job. got to go into the motor for 160mph. for sure!
no matter what we are having way to much fun!
Just fitted a 32T front pulley to go along with the 68T rear...calculator shows a theoretical top speed of 148.8mph @ 7000rpm. Wilmington being a standing start one mile course I'm thinking this might be all the 1250 can tolerate in that short distance...not that much time to get up to speed like a three-mile course. I welcome advice from any who have attempted similar in one mile scenario. I know it's going to be rough without much aero. Torque will peak at about 86 ft-lb @ 6000rpm before it starts falling away...110hp is recorded @ 7500rpm which I won't be exceeding on this motor. My gut feeling tells me this is going to be more like a slightly extended drag race than a typical top speed run like Bonneville...I've got what, less than thirty seconds to get it done?
EDIT: With the new tire (160/60ZR17) I lose 5mph off the above expected top speed at the given rpm.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/Last%20Sportster%20build/lastSportsterbuild-round2003_zps6fbb8203.jpg)
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If I had your dyno numbers and your primary gearing, along with the transmission ratios 1st -5th and tire roll out. I can tell you exactly what it will do.
Without the numbers can't say much.
Rouse
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With all the numbers I can calculate what it "should" do...what I'm looking for is real world experience from someone with a similar set-up running a standing start mile. :cheers:
Using this calculator with a 2010 883 punched in gets the numbers... http://www.gearingcommander.com/
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Several years back in tech. (Maxton) I was told I could not run M/PP - the class does not exist. Once I was in M -Modified I had to run PG = M/PG
Am I missing something here ? M/PP is legit now ? I was even running the old oem Bendix carb on that old 1974 Sportster.
AMA/BUB Bonneville allowed the M/PP for several years but has since, closed that classification.
The old Gray Ghost will be at Wilmington for the June meet - M/PG One last go around for the old Iron. :cheers:
See you all in a couple weeks
Jimbo
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Never mind then.
Rouse
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Several years back in tech. (Maxton) I was told I could not run M/PP - the class does not exist. Once I was in M -Modified I had to run PG = M/PG
Am I missing something here ? M/PP is legit now ? I was even running the old oem Bendix carb on that old 1974 Sportster.
AMA/BUB Bonneville allowed the M/PP for several years but has since, closed that classification.
The old Gray Ghost will be at Wilmington for the June meet - M/PG One last go around for the old Iron. :cheers:
See you all in a couple weeks
Jimbo
That may be true Jim...just a play on letters but the results/bike will be the same. What does your bike run at Wilmington and is my analogy of it being a drag race fairly correct?
EDIT: 7.D.4 states the combo's, but it's still a little vague to me. The last sentence is especially mysterious lol.
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get it up to speed is fast as you can ,like a one mile drag race.
bf
from the mousetrap.
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Yep ! Just like Bill said - "get it on as quick as you can" it is like a one mile drag strip. I think your gonna love it.
We had to make a rookie run last year for our first pass to show we could handle the bike & slow down safely to exit the track. A good safety aspect of the ECTA.
After we passed that scrutinizing it was all out - WFO for the mile. Had a blast goin fast and seeing some old friends.
Here is a short clip from that weekend.
Have fun - go fast - stop safe -
Jimbo
http://youtu.be/d2j8MSzydAc
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Great clip Jim! Sure didnt sound like you were wringing it out thru the gears going down the track. Have any advice on my proposed gearing with the 1250 Sportster?
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For whatever its worth Turbocat - The Iron Gray Ghost (1235 cc)ran a 22 - 43 at Bnvle. We plan on a little Union Grove Drag strip test & tune next Thursday eve. For that testing we use a 21 - 50 - for Wilmington most likely a 21 - 43 - but that's the Iron Head not the Alloy Ghost II
Like W mentioned in that clip, for the Alloy (1643 cc.) bike we ran the same gearing at Wilmington that we ran at Bnvle. 21 - 38 , that's with a stock 1998 primary drive & and 5 spd. with S&S close ratio gear set. As for how it sounded on that clip, it wasn't any where near the rev. limitr, just gobs of torque pullin like a t'd off Missouri mule. We maybe could have added a tooth or two to the wheel sprocket, but figured we had plenty of fun at our first go around at Wilmington. :-D :cheers:
The old Iron is a whole other world compared to the technology of the alloy motors that just took off. I am still boning up on much of EFI programing on the Alloy, where as a 1974 Iron Head with a Dynatek SP 4000 - set it right - and your done, oh ya, wanna change jetting - drop da bowel. With the Alloy - plug in da lap top and a few key strokes and your done, till you want to look at A - F ratio again.
Glad you enjoyed the clip. If you are at the June event - stop by & say hi.
Jimbo
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Thanks Jim - I can match your gearing pretty close with the belt, but the question is how much hp is the Iron Gray Ghost making. That would help a lot making a final decision on overall gearing for mine...I suspect you are making over the 110hp my '07 will be putting out. I'll be sure to stop by at Wilmington.
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Thanks Jim - I can match your gearing pretty close with the belt, but the question is how much hp is the Iron Gray Ghost making. That would help a lot making a final decision on overall gearing for mine...I suspect you are making over the 110hp my '07 will be putting out. I'll be sure to stop by at Wilmington.
The Iron Ghost dynode 98 rear wheel hp - Remember, in the PP class he last rode in we had to run the OEM Bendix carb. His best speed with that gearing and the Bendix was 147mph. In PG now, he will be running an S&S
One last thought - The primary drive on the Iron Ghost is 1.60 and the primary drive on the Alloy Ghost 1.73 - I suspect your primary drive is 1.73 or was that changed ?
Here is the Alloy Ghost II W F O at Bnvle. - he does sound a bit different at 170 . http://youtu.be/DN7EbWf1Wa4 :cheers:
Have fun - see ya in a couple weeks
Jimbo
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Thanks Jim - I can match your gearing pretty close with the belt, but the question is how much hp is the Iron Gray Ghost making. That would help a lot making a final decision on overall gearing for mine...I suspect you are making over the 110hp my '07 will be putting out. I'll be sure to stop by at Wilmington.
The Iron Ghost dynode 98 rear wheel hp - Remember, in the PP class he last rode in we had to run the OEM Bendix carb. His best speed with that gearing and the Bendix was 147mph. In PG now, he will be running an S&S
One last thought - The primary drive on the Iron Ghost is 1.60 and the primary drive on the Alloy Ghost 1.73 - I suspect your primary drive is 1.73 or was that changed ?
Here is the Alloy Ghost II W F O at Bnvle. - he does sound a bit different at 170 . http://youtu.be/DN7EbWf1Wa4 :cheers:
Have fun - see ya in a couple weeks
Jimbo
This '07 883 has 34T engine sprocket/57T clutch sprocket for 1.676:1 ratio. I don't know that I will ever get to your level, but it would be fun trying! You never know, I may get bitten by the bug my first time out. :cheers:
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You will get the bug! As for a long drag race -- no hard launches, but I'm sure you know that. go fast, go safe
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Running out of time and still not completed...likely going to be the July meet. Looks like I will be assembling the motor about the time you guys/gals are going down the strip in June. Barring any unforseen snags the first attempt with the bike will be in the M/PG - 1350-4 class.
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Still waiting on the heads/cylinders/cams - Got the wheels swapped and waiting on a fender for the mid-glide, but this is about what the bike will look like when I haul it up to Ohio. I'll fit the steering dampner when I upgrade the motor parts. Most likely will swap the drive pulley to a 61T.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/Last%20Sportster%20build/lastSportsterbuild-round2005_zpsabc5b887.jpg)
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The bike is looking good - What is the gear ratio ?
Have fun
Jimbo
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The bike is looking good - What is the gear ratio ?
Have fun
Jimbo
It has the 883 primary 1.676:1 with 32T/61T belt final and 160/60ZR17 rear wheel. I have some clip-on's to use later.
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If your bike will pull that gear, call it a War Horse!
Rouse
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If your bike will pull that gear, call it a War Horse!
Rouse
Don't know for sure it will...I'm going to leave the 32T/68T on it during break-in and will see how it fares from there. Kind of limited on drive pulleys with a belt and I'm resisting a swap to a chain as long as possible. I'm afraid I will run out of gear with the 68T... :-(
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If you're making 110 Hp and plan on running 7000 RPMs the 32/68 will put you in the mid 140's, with a good tuck you could see that, maybe.
The same numbers with the 32/61 would put you in the mid 160's, that ain't going to happen, unless you truly have a War Horse.
Rouse
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If you're making 110 Hp and plan on running 7000 RPMs the 32/68 will put you in the mid 140's, with a good tuck you could see that, maybe.
The same numbers with the 32/61 would put you in the mid 160's, that ain't going to happen, unless you truly have a War Horse.
Rouse
If I can reach 140mph in a standing mile with any gear I will leave satisfied. Not having any experience in this I am just guessing here. From previous experiences on the drag strip I am wondering if it might prove beneficial to lower the rpm target somewhat...effectively moving back towards the torque curve before it begins to fall off thinking the bike may "pull" harder in that range. I know it is a narrow window of opportunity and wind resistance is the enemy here, but do you think I am on the right track in this thinking? I have no illusions of doing 160mph on this bike at any distance lol...just seeking ways to maximize what I have to work with. Thanks!
EDIT: It's looking like a 30T/61T might be the happy medium.
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I think it would be to your advantage to go the other way Something like 31 or even 30 on the drive pulley. Haven't looked at those combo's as far as your speed but, I went that way with mine.
Rouse
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I think it would be to your advantage to go the other way Something like 31 or even 30 on the drive pulley. Haven't looked at those combo's as far as your speed but, I went that way with mine.
Rouse
Do you have a picture of your bike Rouse?
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That's the bike on my avatar,
I hope the picture comes through.
This bike has been 152.5 at the Texas Mile 155+ at Bonneville Record is 153.352, in testing has been 159+, Hell of a ride with front controls.
Rouse
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Looks like a showpiece! :cheers: I can't imagine trying to keep my feet on those forward's at that speed lol! I'll need all the help I can get.
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If this link will work, it has sound.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XAqGf_ZKNAQ
Rouse
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What range of afr's should I be shooting for with this 1250 at WOT? Would 13.0 be too rich to still pull hard at high rpm? Being efi I can easily massage numbers.
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Rouse, beautiful bike and fast too. I noticed the frame is set up to use mid pegs/controls. Do you have to do special conditioning to strengthen your leg for shifting forward controls at your speeds?
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The bike rolled off the showroom floor just like it is with forward controls, so that's the way that I ran it. In order to change to mid controls the primary cover would have to be changed and that would have knocked it out of the "P" class.
It is a trick to keep your feet on the pegs after about 130 and up. I am in pretty good shape, but you have to get good at "bear hugs" with your legs, kinda like riding a bull ya know.
The seat is very flat "small hump on the back" also, that makes it important not to let go or you'll blow of.
Arm strength is must to ride this bike, I'd have to guess, but at speed, the tug on my arms has to be over 200#, way over.
Rouse
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I think some of you are dreaming. If you look at the current records I don't think hitting 140 is achievable with an unfaired 1000cc PG bike. There is no M/PP class. M/PG 1000/4 record is only 105.8075 and is the only existing record in the 1000cc pushrod class at Wilm. The Modified Partial Streamlined Pushrod Gas 1350/4 record is only 139.4500, the MPS/PFuel 1350/4 record is slower at 131.0958. Surprisingly the M/PG 1350/4 record is at 141.9558 and the only one above 144mph is the M/PF 1350/4 class at 150.4011, The latter 2 set this weekend.
I think I may have set my sites too low. I have a 1327cc Sputhe XR twin carb heads full faired, 360lb 62 Sportster. I'd be happy to go home with a 140mph record.
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I think some of you are dreaming. If you look at the current records I don't think hitting 140 is achievable with an unfaired 1000cc PG bike. There is no M/PP class. M/PG 1000/4 record is only 105.8075 and is the only existing record in the 1000cc pushrod class at Wilm. The Modified Partial Streamlined Pushrod Gas 1350/4 record is only 139.4500, the MPS/PFuel 1350/4 record is slower at 131.0958. Surprisingly the M/PG 1350/4 record is at 141.9558 and the only one above 144mph is the M/PF 1350/4 class at 150.4011, The latter 2 set this weekend.
I think I may have set my sites too low. I have a 1327cc Sputhe XR twin carb heads full faired, 360lb 62 Sportster. I'd be happy to go home with a 140mph record.
2001 Bonneville I believe...139mph and change with this 1000cc P/PP Sportster. Aaron from Hammer Performance was there for this one. http://thecyberzoo.com/imgshr/xlf-files/800-ls00r-2001.html
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/Last%20Sportster%20build/800-lsr11-mevo-rdkill-pits_zps221ff9ad.jpg)
I know the current record is very soft for a 1000cc pushrod...a showroom bike is capable of that.
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At Bonneville I believe it. No one is there yet at Ohio. There is a 50mph difference with our car at Bville than at Ohio. I imagine the spread may not be as big on a bike but a spreadjust the same.
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At Bonneville I believe it. No one is there yet at Ohio. There is a 50mph difference with our car at Bville than at Ohio. I imagine the spread may not be as big on a bike but a spreadjust the same.
Lets put it in this perspective...a typical 883/1250 conversion Sportster is currently turning out 1/4-mile speeds of 120mph on average. We are talking another 3/4-mile to bring up the speed. The bike pictured above began as a 2000 883 and was punched out to 997cc with pistons/head work/compression ratio far outstripping current 1250 builds. I have confidence the 1000cc bike would seriously crowd my 1250 in a miles distance.
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At Bonneville I believe it. No one is there yet at Ohio. There is a 50mph difference with our car at Bville than at Ohio. I imagine the spread may not be as big on a bike but a spreadjust the same.
The speed difference is not that big at Bonneville for bikes under 175 mph. I ran the Texas mile at 152.518, then turn around and ran 154.081 on the salt.
The over 175 cars and bikes get another 2 miles to run up the speed "if they can" so you're likely to see a more speed.
The air is thinner at Bonneville so you lose Hp, however, it's easier to run through.
Rouse
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Finally got a front fender on this bike...all is right in the world now. :cheers:
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/Last%20Sportster%20build/fendersatlast001_zps6864f353.jpg)
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/Last%20Sportster%20build/fendersatlast002_zpsa3e428f2.jpg)
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Looks nice/ clean from here.
That front tire looks big for a Sportster, is that just the camera view or is it an oversize tire? Still looks nice, just wounder about the tire size.
Rouse
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Looks nice/ clean from here.
That front tire looks big for a Sportster, is that just the camera view or is it an oversize tire? Still looks nice, just wounder about the tire size.
Rouse
It's a standard 2012 SuperLow wheel with a stock size 120/70ZR18 Shinko tire.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/Last%20Sportster%20build/fendersatlast003_zpsf9a0e879.jpg)
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It must have been the camera angle. ( or my eyes )
Nice bike
Rouse
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Displacement upgrade in progress...
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/Last%20Sportster%20build/teardown007_zps9de197fc.jpg)
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/Last%20Sportster%20build/teardown010_zpsb24e5308.jpg)
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Did a little prep work just in case I decide to give the turbo a whirl later...
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/Last%20Sportster%20build/turboprep001_zpsd8e8b03b.jpg)
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/Last%20Sportster%20build/turboprep002_zps9b1cb356.jpg)
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/Last%20Sportster%20build/turboprep003_zpsa2ae2d53.jpg)
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/Last%20Sportster%20build/turboprep004_zps2ee69958.jpg)
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Hammer Time...
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/Last%20Sportster%20build/HammerTime001_zpsa87feea0.jpg)
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/Last%20Sportster%20build/HammerTime002_zpsbb9ab8cb.jpg)
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/Last%20Sportster%20build/HammerTime004_zps32c9c2f7.jpg)
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/Last%20Sportster%20build/HammerTime005_zpsbffc2c87.jpg)
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/Last%20Sportster%20build/HammerTime006_zps48472560.jpg)
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Nice looking chambers on the heads. Clean set up. Who makes that kit.
Rouse
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Nice looking chambers on the heads. Clean set up. Who makes that kit.
Rouse
These are parts from Hammer Performance. :cheers:
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Wow! I don't ride a motor cycle, but that looks like one clean engine and bike. Makes me feel bad to open my hood. I'll be in Wilmington in 2 weeks hope to raise my speed to 150 now that I have 4th gear. Good luck to all.
Kerry
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I was able to replace the oil pump drive gear with a bronze version without completely removing the pump body...
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/Last%20Sportster%20build/HammerTime009_zps5e3def3c.jpg)
#2 and #3 cam lobes however will require chamfering due to interference with the pictured race...grinding time.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/Last%20Sportster%20build/HammerTime010_zpsffa04e63.jpg)
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With that tall of a cam, make sure you check the lifters to make sure they travel properly. The old style would have to be clearanced for the lift.
Rouse
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With that tall of a cam, make sure you check the lifters to make sure they travel properly. The old style would have to be clearanced for the lift.
Rouse
So far the only other area I see that needs attention are the lifter bosses...just a little die grindage involved.
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Sounds about right to me.
Rouse
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Wasnt going to pull the lifter blocks initially, but that is out the door now. I'll have to carefully block off passages and do some meticulous cleaning after the chips fly lol.
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zippers makes a real nice cam clearance tool, makes short work of the job, and it makes them all the same.
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Good to go with 70 ft lbs as recommended...
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/Last%20Sportster%20build/DSC02540_zpsfbb648ed.jpg)
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/Last%20Sportster%20build/DSC02542_zps34a0dbc7.jpg)
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turbocat, you going to be at Wilmington in july?
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How many dots can you line up at a time?
Looks like the 3 cam is a tooth off from the picture!
I would indicate the cams in to make sure, if were me.
BTW. I have a brand new custom ground cam from a well know cam company, that I paid "BIG Bucks" for, Twin cam engine. I found the rear cam was 6 degrees retarded. I found that when trying to figure out why I didn't get an expected power gain with that cam. I did the usual check of the front cam ( which is last in line gear wise ) and it was right on the money, so I didn't check the rear cam at that time. Mix emotions upon finding that problem, happy I found the problem, pissed that I paid so much for that cam.
I check every lob on every cam now, just to make sure.
Rouse
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Won't make it till September Runt-
It was off on #3 Rouse in the above pics...remedied. :cheers:
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/Last%20Sportster%20build/DSC02544_zps17f175ef.jpg)
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You owe me a beer the next time we run across paths. :-D
I just thought something looked a little off, I'd still profile the cam on all four lobs, if it were me.
Rouse
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wasn't planning on Sept. but one never knows!
there are a few things I learned and some things I was taught.
watch the flag! love me a tailwind!
leave the line hard and carry the speed threw to the top
tuck, tuck, tuck, toes in, elbows in, chin on tank, backside slid back to the passenger seat. every possible body point touching the bike.
the way I got over 140 with an OEM tube frame Buell, was short shifting 1st and getting into top gear at the 1/2 mile mark. seems the key for the small under 100hp motors is to carry the speed from the lower gears into top gear, and being in top gear at the 1/2 mile mark. we were actually geared perfect with a 30 tooth primary [engine], 32 tooth trans, and 55 tooth rear pulley we were going threw the traps at 6800 rpms, right were everything starts to drop off.
well that's what did it for us. going to try top my speeds in July.
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You owe me a beer the next time we run across paths. :-D
I just thought something looked a little off, I'd still profile the cam on all four lobs, if it were me.
Rouse
I actually changed it right after I took the first pics, but I would be glad to buy you a brew...thanks for looking out for me! :cheers:
Not enough time for me to make the July meet...I'll use the time to break-in and finalize configuration.
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That will work. and I'll buy one back, just not to many times in a row. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Rouse
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Last minute decision to upgrade/order pushrods will delay me this weekend, but I can go ahead and set cylinders/pistons.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/Last%20Sportster%20build/HammerTime001_zpsadf1db2d.jpg)
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/Last%20Sportster%20build/HammerTime002_zpsc0993efa.jpg)
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Delay is cancelled...pushrods arrived yesterday! :cheers:
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/Last%20Sportster%20build/HammerTime003_zpsf8743cbd.jpg)
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Checking squish for the first time showed .055 for the front cylinder and .050 for the rear...too much clearance. Weighed my options then finally removed the base gaskets and applied Yamabond 4 sealant in their place. Squish is now at .038 for the front and .033 for the rear.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/Last%20Sportster%20build/HammerTime001_zpsd9e389d5.jpg)
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/Last%20Sportster%20build/HammerTime002_zps97926f20.jpg)
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq69/rickss69/Last%20Sportster%20build/HammerTime003_zps2c6e5156.jpg)
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It's alive! :cheers: http://youtu.be/WQ_OuwW1nSk
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its raining at the track! lol