Landracing Forum
Tech Information => Technical Discussion => Topic started by: Jorge on August 07, 2011, 05:45:22 AM
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I'm looking into purchasing a ford 250 or 350 superduty for towing purposes. The primary use will be to tow a full car trailer with tools, spare parts etc, including a 32 roadster to El Mirage 6 times a year and to Bonneville twice a year and putting at least 3500 miles on the truck per year. Diesel trucks are somewhat new for me and I'm wanting to know what should I look for as for actual engine mileage, towing capacity and other critical areas? If any one with experience can give me some good starting pointers in what to look for, it will help me out a lot, thanks.
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Some of the "Newer" trucks have particulate filters to keep the ash from combustion out of the air. The problem with the filter is they burn fuel to clean the darn thing. They burn a lot of fuel because of the EPA idiots writing rules with no knowledge of the technology. It would appear that a lot of lobbying from interested parties really screws up the works. I know of one instance where a truck (08' F250) went from 13 MPG highway to 22 MPG (when used as a commuter not towing). The computer chip used is not street legal but does the job on fuel consumption reduction.
I personally do not own a diesel truck so can't be of much help. I know the newer trucks get poor mileage in stock form.
see you on the salt!
Marty
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Martysmilt
I'm not to concerned with gas mileage because it wont be used as a daily driver but thanks for that bit of knowledge. I should've said odometer reading, what type of vehicle do you use for towing? My daily driver is a 06 5.4l f150 and I really dont want to depend on that for towing and getting around town.
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Jorge,
Email me. I have a truck for you.
John
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We're on our second diesel truck for general use and towing to and from race events. We have our second Duramax (GM diesel) - and are satisfied very much. Of the three name brands of trucks, the Dodge, with Cummins diesel, is the noisiest, the Ford Powerstroke the middle unit, and the Duramax the quietest (at least form the outside. I haven't ridden in anything but the D-max). That alone is worth quite a bit to us.
We get about 22-24 mpg in daily driving around home in the summertime and about 19 in the winter when we're in 4WD for months at a time. When we tow the race trailer we get in the 14.5 - 15.5 range. The rig total scales at 13,300 - 14,000#, depending on what's in the trailer (we drove across a scale last week to check once more). I don't complain about our fuel economy. I offer one caveat about economy -- we drive at or below the speed limit always. If you want better mileage -- KEEP YOUR FOOT OUT OF THE THROTTLE!!!
Our first diesel was traded in at 250,000 miles because I wanted a new truck before the diesel engine fluid additive became required -- so we've got an '09. The '04 that we traded was fine -- no loss of performace, no increase in oil consumption. I had carefully changed the oil, which was Rotella 5W40 synthetic, every 25,000 - 30,000 miles (no error there). I change filter halfway between oil changes.
Don't be afraid to ask for maintenance records. If the engine looks to have lived a good life -- go ahead, get one.
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If you're stuck on purchasing a Ford and you are thinking of purchasing used, be very careful. The used 6.0L engines can be dinomite. Failed head gaskets can cost you between 6-8K to repair as the cab generally has to be lifted off to change them. If the truck has head studs installed then chances are the head gaskets have already been changed. You can't go wrong with a used Duramax but try to stay newer then '05. The early LB7 engine which was up to 2004.5 was troublesome with the injectors and sealing, but the other engine models LLY, LBZ and LMM are all much better.
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If you want a diesel truck without all the computer BS....go shopping for a early Dodge (1991) with a 5 speed manual shift......25 miles to gallon solo....18 miles to gallon with big trailer......mine now has
over 450000 miles in it.....only a water pump and alternator todate....2 Batt.......2 brake jobs.....3 set of tires......Great truck...
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Seldom Seen Slim
Very informative thanks a lot, now i can start looking for something with a bit of high mileage on it. For the amount of miles and weight i plan to put on per year i think something in the 120k range might be right for me. Whats a good price range for a diesel with that kind of mileage? Thanks
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Dmax65
Thanks for letting me know about the head gasket problems, I'll keep that in mind when I'm out looking around or asking on the web. I'm not stuck on getting a ford but that's my first choice, but im looking for power and dependability and if that takes me in a different direction other than a ford than thats okay. I'll look for more info on the duramax diesel. Thanks for your help.
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bak189
That's very impressive, I'm keeping my options open to all makes but would prefer a ford. I'll do some research on an early dodge like yours. Thanks for reaching out.
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I think you have to smog diesels 90 or 93 and newer in Calf now. I would check before I buy any thing in ca again
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If you want a diesel truck without all the computer BS....go shopping for a early Dodge (1991) with a 5 speed manual shift......25 miles to gallon solo....18 miles to gallon with big trailer......mine now has
over 450000 miles in it.....only a water pump and alternator todate....2 Batt.......2 brake jobs.....3 set of tires......Great truck...
3 sets of tires in 450,000 miles on a diesel, I'm impressed.
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mkilger,
I was on a diesel forum and came across smog checks for diesels in California. Its 98 and newer and it passed in Jan 2010, one of those guys said a tech told him that they dont much to test them. I quess its another way for California to make money.
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Jorge,
Fords:: Stick with the 2001 and older with the 7.3L V8s. Stay away from the 6.0Ls unless they have prof that a Ford Dealer has fixed the heads and EGR issues. Gonna be hard to find one with 120k or less milage. Horrible turning radius. (Easier to turn a Aircraft Carrier) Prices range from $10k to $18k.
Dodge:: 2002 to 2006 are the best years of the 5.9L. All transmissions are good. More power than the Fords. Motors will go 200k+ miles without any worry. Trucks fall apart long before engine goes. Prices range from $12k to $30k.
Chevy:: Anything with a Duramax and Allison are good(2001 - 2011). Usually costs more than a Dodge or Ford. Not sure why this is??? Prices range from $12k to $45k.
I have a 2004 Dodge with a six speed manual and LOVE it!!!!
My 2 Pennies!!
Steve
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Steve,
That was some good 2 pennies! Thanks so much.
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The Smog Test
Any diesel ‘98 and newer and less than 14,000 GVW has a biannual (once every two years) smog requirement. The test is a joke and a rip-off! It is only designed to catch those that have removed OEM smog equipment (like a cat), or cold air packages that do not have an EO (executive order) number. The truck is not put on a roller (i.e., dyno) like gas cars are required to do. There is no tail pipe sniffer simply because the equipment for diesels does not exist. They mostly want to catch those that have removed the cat. However, if they spot a chip-change or Bully Dog thingy on the dash you will fail.
The legislation has emboldened businesses to take obscene advantage of the consumers ignorance! The know that owners assume anything with a diesel costs more. They count on the consumer not knowing what the test entails. Here is the test.
1. Lift the hood and look for aftermarket stuff without an EO number.
2. Start the engine and look at the tail pipe.
3. END OF TEST
I have received quotes from $90 to $120 plus the $15 state cert. After 5 quotes I drove to the guy that would do it for $90. I then told him I knew what the test entailed and it could be completed in less than 2 minutes but even if it took 5 minutes $90 for 5 minutes was obscene. He agreed to do it for $60 including the $15 state cert. Essentially, businesses are charging the equivalent of $540-$1,200 per hour! You do the math . . .($90 for 5 minutes. $120 @ 10 minute, etc).
I don’t believe in the stereotypical crooked mechanic. We all wrench and we know the cost of things. But this legislation has legitimized outright thievery. They are pricing based on the pure ignorance of the consumer not knowing what the test actually entails . . . and the time taken. I have heard all manner of bs about the cost of the dyno (which is not used), the cost of the computer system to transmit the sniffer results to Sacramento (there is no tail-pipe-sniff test). Only your registration slip is transmitted.
You can tell I am mad about this moronic legislation by a So Cal assemblyman. If I wasn’t so busy with LSR I would write him a letter or get SEMA involved. Oh, wait a minute . . . SEMA just asked CARB for 1 month time extension to get more aftermarket parts approved. The Calif Air Resources Board approved the SEMA request.
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When I first saw Slim’s mileage numbers I thought it was bs. I only got such good numbers when my truck was new and I was driving 55. Then I read on and he clearly states he drives slower than the speed limit. That is the key.
Mileage numbers from anybody should always be suspect. The biggest chance for error is clicking off the tank at full. It can easily skew the numbers along with odometer errors. That being said, I have never driven a vehicle that can produce such a wide range in actual fuel mileage. I have an ’06 Duramax. I carefully log fuel mileage and depending on how I drive I have seen a low of 17.3 MPG to a high of 21.2MPG. My usual mixed city/highway is around 19.5 to 20.3mpg (no towing). Not bad for a 6,400lb vehicle with the CdA of a barn. It only takes one or two passes on a two lane highway to screw up your mileage for the rest of the trip. Once you put your foot into that turbo and hold it to DOT legislated fuel cut-off speed, you can kiss good mileage goodbye for the rest of the trip.
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Saltfever,
You went into much better detail than the forum I was on. That explains why the tech told the driver that they really dont do much for the smog test. Very good information to have, that's something new for me. I knew there certain regulations that diesels had to come by here in California and its also part of the reason why I started this thread, to become more knowledgeable about things surrounding diesel trucks. Thanks for posting!
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One thing to think about on the older truck issue.
The fuel that these motors were designed to run is no longer available, sulfer content.
In '07, the ultra low sulfer fuel went into distribution at your local station.
The issue becomes injector pump lubrication. You have to use a additive like Stanadyne or Power Services lube.
I know of a lot of old timers who used old motor oil and even trans fluid.
FWIW, my neighbor just purchased a '94 Dodge Cummins dually. Really nice and clean, 125k miles and paid under $6k.
This truck is a virgin, no aftermarket parts, not burned up and time will tell but I feel very reliable. He just needs to add the raycor filter and the cavitation erosion fix and will have a truck for the rest of his life. Oh and a case of PS lube.
J
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Johnneilson,
It seems that the Chevy's and the dodge trucks are a lot more popular and reliable than the fords. Its going to be another subject of interest for me to bring up and ask about this weekend with other teams. I'm going to stop by the local book store today and see if I can find a book on how to maintain a diesel truck. Thanks for your input.
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Mines a 2003 Chev. Silverado duelly with duramax, has 112.600 miles on it and still runs like a dream. Just got back from a 6000 mile trip towing a 30 foot travel trailer. I had a Dodge Cummins prior to this one and it was a dog.
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Regarding smoging.......my 1991 model does not require smoging in CA... In Arizona (I also have` a place in AZ.) my 1991 requires smoging....But the work is done at a state station at (i was told) $27.00.
They lift the hood...run the engine to 2000rpm...see how much smoke out of the exhaust....your done...
just another way to make a few bucks. But a least the price is within reason because it is done at a state
facility........In Oct. I will register the truck in AZ.....much cheaper registration fees....much cheaper insurance costs...
Auto-trans fluid in the fuel to lube the injector pump....works for me...............................................
Put a boost gauge in the truck.....control the boost and you control the fuel milage......open up the exhaust system let it breath ......split it into two pipes with straight thru glasspacks.....change the
diff. ratio to higher ratio (plenty of power to pull a higher gear) larger dia. wheels and tires (again higher ratio and saves tires) and your good for a half a million mile plus.....................................................
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Johnneilson,
It seems that the Chevy's and the dodge trucks are a lot more popular and reliable than the fords. Its going to be another subject of interest for me to bring up and ask about this weekend with other teams. I'm going to stop by the local book store today and see if I can find a book on how to maintain a diesel truck. Thanks for your input.
Ford used the International motors up to the "Power stroke" motors. I seem to remember that in '99? they had a major redesign, something like only salvaging the wrist pins. I do know that the early ones had major issues with ecu and turbo.
As far as the Dodge, my '99 had the candle lit. ran 35# boost and 3.5 gears. Pulled the race trailer over the Grapevine in Cali, overdrive at 80 mph. Trailer was Carson 32' 5th wheel loaded. Yep, that truck made strange noises, just turned up the radio. Oh, and with the stk exhaust.
You may start looking for a local shop who specializes in Diesel, I had a shop call Diesel Dyno Tune in El Monte years ago. These shops usually will shoot straight with you.
John
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I lean towards the International and Cummings engines. More for durability and less plastic/computer bolt-ons. Towing and with the altitude changes you'll want the turbo versions.
Sadly one thing I have to do these days is talk to my insurance agent before picking out a new toy. I swear it seems like they want to charge an extra $200 a year because a particular model had stripes and better rims. Anyway, if you have a decent agent you can find the model and year ranges with lower insurance. Just like mileage and repairs, it's the total effect on your annual racing budget.
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Bought a 99 Dodge dually w/150k a year or 2 ago, hail damage and needed a clutch to tow... $5500 Just spent another 160 putting in a lift pump. If you can get the 24v motor I would go that way although everyone I know with the old 12v loves them.... like Bak. Shop the midwest, lots of hail damage the last few years :-D
:cheers:
forgot, 17mpg @ 75 -80 not towing, 14-15 towing little car @ 65, 12-13 towing Max's 24' enclosed bike trailer, 10-12 towing the 40' gooseneck enclosed w/liner
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I bought a used 2004 Dodge 3500 a couple of years ago and have been very happy with it. It has a 5.9L Cummins diesel with an auto trans; I got 13.5 mpg towing a 25 ft travel trailerup from Tucson to Ouray, CO where I am now (on the way to Bonneville). It has a gauge package to monitor the tranny temp (F), exhaust temp (F), and boost pressure (psi). On long uphill tows I watch the temp gauges to make sure they stay in the safe range.
Diesels have torque and get better mileage.
Regards, Neil
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Mine's a 99 ford powerstroke 7.3 litre bought new 109,000 miles '' not used much after buying Extera in 05''
the best milage was 17mpg with very easy throttle, usually 13-14- towing 8-9 mpg. 65 MPH Calif- 75 mph
Nevada, faster if I'm sleepin and Bvillercr is drivein :-P
I know of one person with same truck that claims such high milage that he must have to stop and siphon some diesel out on the way to Bville :-D
I tell him, dont ever let me fill your tank.
I would get better milage if I quit filling after 2 clicks, but to get complete fillup ''and more miles on road''
I keep filling with gas nozzel barely squeesed and add 3-4 gal or more due to diesel fuel foaming so much.
JL222
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(snip. . . ) I would get better milage if I quit filling after 2 clicks, but to get complete fillup ''and more miles on road''
I keep filling with gas nozzel barely squeesed and add 3-4 gal or more due to diesel fuel foaming so much.
That is a great point, JL and one I was trying to make. There is such a wide range in filling technique as well as differences in the sensitivity of the fill nozzles that any mileage claims should be taken with a grain of LSR salt! :-) Then when you add in the tendency of an owner to brag about his rig, and various driving techniques, some claims are not close reality. I wouldn't trust the numbers on other forums. Of course, this LSR forum you can take to the bank. :-D
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Any thread like this you are going to get good information but a smattering of brand loyalty. The difficulty is trying to filter what is practical for your own goals. There have been a lot of technical changes on diesels in the later years. You will need to decide if you want older technology or newer and how long will you keep the vehicle. There has been a big leap in mileage, and cleaner emissions, when direct injection was introduced. There has been great improvement in transmissions also. All have overdrive and the six speeds are double overdrive. Although, I have a Duramax I will not knock other brands. However, the Allison 6 speed automatic is one of the best transmission ever produced. When first introduced as a 5 speed, it was only available on GM products. I waited 2 years for the 6-speed to come out. In 2006 Allison introduced the current 6 speed. Then in ’07 the Allison was available on other brands. It is widely used in motor homes and all fleet trucks. When you buy a diesel the power-train is incredibly important. In your research you need to select a decision-point year. Technology seemed to change around 2000 and became more progressively electrified in subsequent years. The 6 speed automatic was another turning point. The choices are bewildering. It might be reasonable to consider 3 periods in time. (1) older technology prior to 2000 (2) newer tech 2000-2005, and (3) later technology 2006 to present day. Once you look at the cost/benefits of an era you can then narrow your search. I’m generalizing and I’m sure my decision points are arbitrary and others may define it even better. I will be very interested to see other points of view. Good Luck.
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I was all set to buy an 05 ford crewcab but when we sat in the back seat it was completely uncomfortable
compared to my 99. Ford made the floor area flatter and the seat cushion narrower so it could fold up closer
to back of seat and give more storage room.
Also the truck set flat with no rake in it, I could imagine that the headlights would be shining on the moon
with the race trailer on and the rear loaded even with my equalizing bars.
JL222
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I have a 2004 Ford 6.0 and like you use it only for towing my #8000 trailer and some vacations empty. I bought it new and it currently has 54K mile. I count my engine related problems on "no" fingers...You heard right. No injectors, no head gaskets, no head studs, no cooler problems, no EGR valve problems.
I use Standyne additive with each tank of fuel since new and have NO hop-up stuff on it. I have never found a drop of water in the fuel separator and by the miles you see it sits a lot. Every 20K mile I add a half bottle of Hot Shot Secret to the oil change. The product was developed for Ford and International to stop the problens they had with the 03 6.0's. After it's development Ford decided not to use it and the product was made public. I use it and will again at 60K miles.
After 3 years I went to Mobil 1 full synthetic 15-40 then 5-40 for diesels. I have had a Bully-Dog monitor on the engine since new: monitoring turbe pressure, engine exhaust and turbo EGT's and battery voltage.
The only engine part that I have changed is the rubber hose leaving the turbo to the cooler. I failed climbing out of Wendover after last years World Finals. I have no idea why. I added an extra hose clamp to get home and bought a new one from Ford. It has never had any thing but Ford Coolant and Ford Trans fluid. I learned a long time ago to put Ford stuff in a Ford and not aftermarket that meets specs. I change the external trans filter and fuel filters at 15K miles.......Good Luck on what ever you choose.
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Thanks to all that have shared there knowledge, experience and preference about this subject. I started looking around for trucks that fall into the years, miles, engines, transmissions and a price range that works for me. So far Ive found these and I would like to know what you guys think.
1. 04 Dodge ram 3500 2wd dually 5.9l cummins diesel 6 speed manual trans 171,000 miles needs a bit of body work $10k
2. 01 Ford 350 2wd dually 7.3l powerstroke auto transmission 169,800 miles $9.8k
3. 02 Dodge ram 3500 dually 5.9l cummins turbo auto transmission 180,000 miles $11k
4. 02 Ford 350 xlt 7.3l turbo diesel 196,630 $11.5k (a bit high for my price range)
5. 04 Dodge ram 3500 reg cab dually 5.7l hemi (not a diesel) manual transmission 129,796 miles $8k
6. 01 Ford 350 7.3l turbo manual transmission 188,000 miles needs about $2500 in body work $7.5k
I tried to fit the models and years the best i could that you guys suggested.
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Jorge;
I'd go with #1.
Regards, Neil
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Since Neil owns No. 1 that's a pretty logical choice. But I second his motion. :-D
No 5. is quite interesting because that is a regular cab. Pretty rare to find one of those nowdays. I like the shorter wheelbase which is a big help around town. If you are only to use it for towing and highway use a longer wheelbase is a plus. I don't know Dodge stuff but be careful of that '04 Hemi. I heard there was a recall on the motor that year or sumptin was wrong. Don't know exactly but maybe someone here can educate us.
You haven't said if fuel mileage was important or if you were going to wrench on the truck yourself. A gas vehicle will always have worse mileage than a diesel. Replacing a clutch on a high mileage truck can be beaucoup expensive if you have the work done. If you are going to wrench on the truck yourself I would go with any of your Dodge picks. If you don't want to do the work then I would kick-up the price a few $K and get a Duramax with the Allison automatic. Up until about '06 or '07 the Duramax made more power than all of them. At some point the Ford became the HP winner but the mileage is terrible compared to the rest of them. I don't know who owns the HP race now and don't care. My '06 Duramax makes 675 !bs of torque. (yeah, I put the explanation mark there on purpose. :-D Signing off for SW . . .
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My 01 Duramax has 89,000 easy miles. Had several injectors replaced under warranty, and just had all on drivers side changed last week. $2700.00
Now the code says leaking injectors, probably on passingers side. Pretty freakin scary to be pulling a big load up the grade in line with a bunch of big rigs and all of a sudden the thing drops to 2000 rpm. Now you are in a panic trying to get out of the way. You finally pull over, turn the engine off for 15 seconds, (this resets the computer) restart the engine and you're on your way, til it happens again. This is to "protect your engine from damage". Now I read this is all too common on the 2001 / 2004 Duramax engines. 2005 has different heads and injectors and much cheaper to test and change out when bad.
I was told by my rep that the original DENZO/DURAMAX engines in Japan didn't have these fuel in oil and smoking problems. Another why GM went belly up.
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*snip*
A gas vehicle will always have worse mileage than a diesel.
Lost a small friendly bet on just how badly. My gas powered truck and cab-over camper ran 8 mpg, we then loaded it onto a friends new car carrier and sped around the local freeways a bit getting 14 mpg and pushing a huge amount of air.
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snip . . . Now I read this is all too common on the 2001 / 2004 Duramax engines. 2005 has different heads and injectors and much cheaper to test and change out when bad.
True: The injector change occured in '05. They went from internal to external injectors. Also emmissions and fuel mileage got better. The Allison trans went from a 5 speed to an 6 speed in '06. If looking for a Duramax the model you want is the LBZ (engine code) (or newer) and 6 speed Allison. Anything after '06 you can't go wrong. Others know this and unfortunately it is reflected in pricing.
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SALTFEVER,
I spent a few hours the other night looking around the web and thats how i came about picking those trucks. I did also look for some chevys and gmc's but i couldnt come across with that engine and transmission package. Im taking that as a good sign because ford and dodge trucks are everywhere for sale. I do plan on doing some of the work myself and the cost per mile isnt a concern. I plan on putting on at least 5k-6k miles on the truck per year. Thats why i dont plan to spend some high dollars on a truck but i dont want to go cheap either because i strongly beleive that you get what you pay for. Something thats known to be reliable and can tow 10k-13k pounds 8 times a year will be perfect for me. But I will keep an eye out for a duramax.
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Neil,
I sent the seller a message asking him if he could send me a copy of the maintenance records. Still waiting for his reply, if he does come through would it be okay if you have a look through them also and see if theres anything out of the ordinary.
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Saltfever,
Check this page out and let me know if the price is right for a duramax like this.
http://www.adpost.com/us/vehicles/607906/
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Jorge: an on-line appraisal is next to impossible. The truck probably cost $45k-$55K when new. The mileage claimed has averaged about 27,000 per year. That is a lot. Some folks will say that is good because it is probably all highway miles. Maybe so but they are probably all “working” miles towing something. Doubtful you would be “commuting” with an empty load that many miles per year in a dully. The factory warrantee on power train is 100,000. Did the owner trade it in before something serious is needed? Sorry, but I have been “out of the market” and not looking the past few years. And my on-line appraisal would be way off base for many reasons. My layman’s guess is that configuration, and year could go $15K-$25K depending on oh so many variables that are too much to list in email. Also, it is an out-of state truck in Texas. Better check with DMV because there is a heavy penalty ($1K-$2K?) for bringing in a 49 state creature. However, maybe since it is a diesel and “if” the OEM version met 50 state emissions the CA DMV may give you a pass. I don’t know but for sure, you better check with DMV about out-of-state vehicles.
This is my last post for the next 9 or 10 days. All the best and GOOD LUCK!
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I'll check with the d.m.v on those things. No problem on not posting back right away. Thanks for all your input.
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Jorge,
Fords:: Stick with the 2001 and older with the 7.3L V8s. Stay away from the 6.0Ls unless they have prof that a Ford Dealer has fixed the heads and EGR issues. Gonna be hard to find one with 120k or less milage. Horrible turning radius. (Easier to turn a Aircraft Carrier) Prices range from $10k to $18k.
This is an unfortunate piece of information that needs to stop being recycled. Ford has done less warranty work on the 6.0 than the 7.3. The 6.0 is a vt365 that international used in many trucks for many years and continues to give great service. They need to be treated somewhat atypically for a diesel, they are are by far the best diesel engine put in a ford truck in terms of performance, gas milage and longevity. You must change the oil and you must drive it long enough to get to operating temp and you must drive them fairly hard. The head problem comes from silly people putting tuners on them, cold starting then blasting down the road a full boost. Start with 2005+, do the research and get one that is not beat, you'll have a great truck all around.
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Jorge;
I think it's a little more then what you want to spend, but the local Chevy dealer loaned me a 2004 DuraMax Crewcab 3500 dually with 70,000 total miles on it for Speedweek. Pulled my 8,000 pound tow hauler like it wasn't there. Has the fifth wheel in bed if wanted, or not. Absolutely perfect inside. Has bed liner. $22K will buy it. Here in Costa Mesa.
John
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John,
Ive been starting to notice that in order to get something that is reliable enough to do some heavy towing my price range has to go up. So 22k actually sounds good for those options. For the first couple of years i think I'm going to use my truck with an open trailer, nothing fancy. Ive had now for 6 years and have never had a problem with it. Towed about 7k pounds last year when i moved out here from Colorado, didn't have trouble going over the Rockies, just a bit slow. Its capable of towing 10k pounds just have to make a few upgrades. Thanks so much for letting me know about a great deal on a truck.
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Earlier this year I purchased a 2000 F350 DRW with 178,000 miles for $7,200. It is a Lariat edition Super Crew (four door) with the 7.3 turbodiesel. It has hail damage, the previous owner added an EDGE tuner, aftermarket torque converter lock up and turbo timer. (and aftermarket radio/sat/nav/tv unit)
I was a little concerned about an PO that appeared to have thrown the J.C. Whitney catalog at the truck, but everything has worked very well on six long tows this Summer.
The great thing about the truck is that is nice enough that it doesn't embarrass me as a DD on occasion, but worn enough that we aren't concerned about getting into it wet and/or dirty on race weekend.