Landracing Forum
Tech Information => Technical Discussion => Topic started by: slimjim on January 17, 2011, 03:09:50 PM
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I'm looking for some opinions on drive chain selection for land speed racing. I'm currently running an EK530 DRZ2 chain on a 2004 GSXR 1000 that is putting out 160hp to the rear tire. The chain didn't fair so well at World finals and I'm debating going to a 520 non-Oring chain since the tensile strength seems pretty close. Also thinking about staying with the 530 but finding another brand. I'm just wondering what the general consensus on this was.
Thanks,
Jim Hoogerhyde
8282b
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the drz2 is what i run on my pro street bike
it takes the power better then any other
but you do have to maintain it
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Went to an O ring chain on the aussie 750 to improve chain life, after trashing a non o ring in 08 on the US 750 (which from 09 has the heavier non o ring drz2 and lasting well) ,
Biggest problem we had was getting enough lube into the pins and keeping it there , some of the frothy lubes tried only realy lubricate the rollers , parafin type don't last ,settled on a motorex lube that went on as liquid and dried to a grease , over lubed and wipe with a rag every run.. on both bikes chains are lasting well now
Also after the meet i am washing the chain down, lubricating in oil and storing in a zip lock bag or by the time the bike gets back to Australia the chain is solid...
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Do a search here. We have beat this to death more than once.
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for info, we switched from an x-ring 530 to a non ring 530 this year. We lubed as soon as the bike was on the trailer after a run, chain is still in good shape, but I think we only made 20 or so runs, haven't had a chance to count 'em yet.
The key at the salt is clean...clean....clean oh and lube.... We used about a can and a half of BG chain lube.
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After running karts for years we found RK Takasago Chain to be the best. Racing chain with solid ground rollers and heat treated and ground side plates. This is not a cheap chain.
Of course, the quality of the sprockets will also influence life of a chain along with the lube.
John
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DID X-Ring Gold
Lowest drag chain available per size
Personal experiences:
(very short chain with about 14" between sprocket centers)
440+ whp
210 mph in a 2K pound car using Martin (industrial conveyor drive equipment) sprockets.
Used the same chain 2X years on the salt (did this by accident)
Luke warm temps at the end of the runs, no water.
Zero chain failures after 30ish runs
Very expensive chain.
Highly recommend.
~JH
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Thanks for all the replies. I'm still debating sealed vs. non-sealed chains and it all comes down to lube. Once the lube comes out of an o-ring chain it's not going back in and the best you can do is lube the rings themselves. Keeping a non-sealed chain lubed is also tough but soaking them overnight and constant cleaning and more lube might be the way to go. I'm going to figure out some kind of auto-oiling system. Messy but probably worth it. I'm also going to run a 520 and see how that goes.
Thanks again for the info,
Jim