Hey Bob,that is precisely why I went the hack. In 2009 when we had the rock-hard SFI tube padding on the cheek bars I got greyed out at low speed, didn't bother trying to drive through it to where I may have actually lost light perception altogether.It's one thing getting bounced around, but full on grey out is something you need to experience to appreciate fully. By taking the clearance out to barely two inches either side it will be a lot easier to clear the helmet from the padding, and will take less concentration, less stress.....I'm not being silly here, it's kind of difficult to drive when you have maybe a gap of an inch around your head (with the threat of not being able to see AT ALL if it moves outside that circle)...kind of like driving with some boiling oil balanced on top of your head...
I also hope to tilt the side padding outwards slightly at the top such that it is flush with the helmet when the drivers head is tilted.The angle I am planning is a straight line drawn from where the drivers coccyx would be up and outwards along the face of the pad Then, if the head travels sideways with the body in the normal upright position the neck will almost follow the normal arc it would if you swayed your head from side to side, or if the whole body tilts to that point the helmet will strike flush. I'm not sure whether it's the Watussi, or what the neck movement that I'm trying to avoid is called, but as I said in last nights post it is the one that,personally, concerns me the most, where your chin travels as far or further sideways than your crown.
Only regret is that I cut that seat mount( screwed there between the cheek bars) because it was part of the old helmet pad, but I do have another idea that should look pretty neat.