I do not strap down the forks. I just set up the final ride height and then limit the compression travel so I dont bottom my front fender into my streamlining.
I decided that I do not know more than the manufacturers about damping versus spring rate, so I run the forks stock at whatever the bike weight puts on them. The engineers have already figured out what the damping should be at different compression levels, so wherever the forks are (stock) seems to work good. That becomes very clear the first time you do hard braking on a modern sportbike and discover they keep steering well with the forks heavily loaded.
I just set up the height I want to run at, and then work on improving the aero to reduce front end lift under power. Thats why I have to limit compression travel at low speed. Simpler is better.
I was surprised to learn that some good research has proven that "too low" center-of-gravity near the steering head is a significant cause of high speed weave. The report said that if the bike is not unstable at very low speed, it will weave at high speed. I have lowered this bike twice over that last four years, and it has become much easier to push around by hand (less tendancy to flop over) and easier to drive off the line, BUT ....now it is beginning to require alternate pressure on the bars for the last two miles of a run. It goes straight enough, at my low speeds, but it hasnt been staying exactly on the line I try for.
I suppose that explains why the sportbike engines keep getting moved higher and more forward as the bikes get faster. This is an awkward trade off, because raising the bike makes the aero pull weight off the front wheel. I have had the front end blow away at 150, before I started moving weight forward and lowering the bike, a few years ago.
Interesting , this trying to learn how to go faster.