YES!
I'll pick up some lubricant for you . . . :cheers:
FB, not to worry, that 20% is my lubrication budget... :roll: so I can't really count it against the car.
Usually spend most of my money on racing, women and booze.... and waste the rest...
So I have decided to build the front 140 inches of the car (less the nose) first, that will be front suspension, drivers area, engine bay and rear suspension mounts. Hoping to not screw it up, we have been refining this thing for 33 years. I know I want 2 or 3 more inches of climb in room, for the knees that are not getting any younger.... or more agile...
I am trying to figure out how to make an engine mount that just installs the mount and engine in the bay to eliminate the major fight we have getting engines in and out.... it may include the removable frame rail or not... time will tell if I can figure it out.
I will make all the curved parts and weld them to the 24 X 16 rectangular section later.
Since you are building a new chassis, consider putting the rear engine & drivetrain in a section of the chassis that will break off from the rest in a hard crash. Getting rid of the energy in a heavy component like that will allow the section with the cockpit to come to a safer stop.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
F=MA. Reduce the mass and you reduce the force.
Is that how the Manta is?
Since you are building a new chassis, consider putting the rear engine & drivetrain in a section of the chassis that will break off from the rest in a hard crash. Getting rid of the energy in a heavy component like that will allow the section with the cockpit to come to a safer stop.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
One might think that the mass of the drivetrain, if still firmly attached, would slow the deceleration of the vehicle upon impact, and limit damage to that bag of bones and water inside the roll cage.
F=MA. Reduce the mass and you reduce the force. I think the benefits of a break away chassis is fairly well understood and adopted in a few different forms of motorsports.
Stainless, Bockscar has always been one of my favorite cars for as long as I could remember - Ben Jordan was an early and great influence on me and my brother. I'm glad you're bringing it back and hope you can maintain a majority of it's original form. Looking forward to seeing it out on the salt again.
Actually, it is just the opposite- the heavier pieces have more energy; that must be dissipated so they tumble down the course further.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
Actually, it is just the opposite- the heavier pieces have more energy; that must be dissipated so they tumble down the course further.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
If they go further, starting from the same speed, then they are decelerating more slowly. Speed doesn't kill, it's the deceleration.
I have a feeling that it's a more nuanced question, and am not entirely convinced by my own argument. You guys may be right, but the case has not been made. A relevant question, which perhaps some of you may be able to answer, is in a fatal accident on the salt, is it more likely caused by deformation of the cage, or subjecting the driver to massive accelerations within an intact cage?
Since you are embarking on a clean- or near clean-sheet build, one might consider the following:
Superior driver sightlines
Question, with a break away chassis wouldn't that leave the cockpit area without a chute?
Bill
I was going to question this as well. Need two chutes, one for the engine, one for the driver and surround........ :roll: :roll: :?Question, with a break away chassis wouldn't that leave the cockpit area without a chute?
Bill
Bill, at that point, the chute is useless.
John
F=MA. Reduce the mass and you reduce the force.
F=MA. Reduce the mass and you increase the acceleration. Lighter vehicles are easier on things they run into, but that's not the issue here.
If a lighter vehicle is "easier" on things they run into then it has the same affect on being easier on those inside the vehicle.
If a lighter vehicle is "easier" on things they run into then it has the same affect on being easier on those inside the vehicle.
A heavy vehicle at 100 mph hits, say, a house. It goes through 3 walls before the coming to a stop. A lighter vehicle just breaks through the outer wall before coming to a stop. All other things being equal, which vehicle has subjected the driver to higher acceleration?
It seems to me that on a good LSR course, there are no houses, or other solid objects, to hit. In this venue the forces generated during an incident mostly result from tangential contact with the ground. The higher the mass of the object involved, the longer it will take to stop, resulting in more impacts. The lighter the mass the quicker the deceleration and the sooner you come to a stop, minimizing the number of hits you take in the process. Think of it this way, would you rather tumble and roll 5 times or 25?
It seems to me that on a good LSR course, there are no houses, or other solid objects, to hit. In this venue the forces generated during an incident mostly result from tangential contact with the ground. The higher the mass of the object involved, the longer it will take to stop, resulting in more impacts. The lighter the mass the quicker the deceleration and the sooner you come to a stop, minimizing the number of hits you take in the process. Think of it this way, would you rather tumble and roll 5 times or 25?
That may indeed be correct. My last post addressed only the argument presented by the post I was responding to.
Are post-crash analyses in SCTA events ever made public?
If a lighter vehicle is "easier" on things they run into then it has the same affect on being easier on those inside the vehicle.
A heavy vehicle at 100 mph hits, say, a house. It goes through 3 walls before the coming to a stop. A lighter vehicle just breaks through the outer wall before coming to a stop. All other things being equal, which vehicle has subjected the driver to higher acceleration?
Definitely the musings of a wise Sage! :-D :cheers:
.....So if the guys that want their car to break apart are smart enough to know how it is going to wreck so they can make it break when and where they want it to.... more power to them....
I am not that guy. :cheers:...
Sumner, hopefully I won't do anything that slows it down too much. :roll:
OK guys, been a little quiet because I was out checking the breweries and distilleries in Little Rock, Memphis, Birmingham, Columbus GA, Orlando, St. Augustine, Savannah and Nashville.... unfortunately I didn't find one in Poplar Bluff. There are some really good beers being produced out there.... and some tasty craft whiskey. Corsair in Nashville makes both. :wink:
Back to business... been cutting and pasting.... only screwed up once, got a little ahead of myself and shortened a main rail before I should have, but no big deal.... it just made it a little harder to square up the back. I am planning a removable frame rail to make changing engines easier, and maybe even make a mount system that includes the frame rail... we will see.
Spent a lot of time today making sure everything was square before and after tacking... the drivers compartment will be between the 2nd and third set of bars. So far only the first and second are tacked in. The back of the drivers compartment needs the top bar coped for the roll bar... so been calculating, and cross checking the numbers on our drawings. Ideally we would do a 8.438 inch CL radius on the bar, but I don't know anyone with one of those cnc benders that seem to spit pipe in any shape you want it... so I will be looking to see if anyone local has a 7.5 inch radius shoe. I don't know if anyone even makes an 8...
This will make a lot more room for the helmets, the old cage was a 6.25 CL radius
So here are a couple of pics to see I haven't fixed Linda's kiln yet... waiting on parts :-D
Hammers, lots of hammers. How would we ever build cars without them. Stainless, I didn't see the one pound. That hammer is an absolute must!I prefer calling it a Linear Impact Adjustment Implement. :cheers:
John
Jack, thanks... the 1/2 higher is in the hard plan... the deeper cage number will be helmet dependent... our old cage shrunk to being a "how you measure the 3 inch minimum" front clearance... and can you keep your head off the cage during a run. The rougher salt made it a lot harder.
We are all getting older, our knees not working as well as they once did.... so the bar at the front of the cage will move about 3 inches. Of course my plan is to make and tack in the parts except the front bar, and then see where that one needs to go.
The old cage was very tight in and out, but we never had a bailout problem with anyone that drove.
Yep, that's the one nobody has and I can't afford....
OK, here is my concept for the roll cage... just front and back bars, required bracing to follow in pictures or metal... we will see how it works out. Feel free to comment... I am not a professional car builder....
Just so you know... I didn't draw this, my good friend Ross Powers (MC2032) listened to my description of how I was thinking I wanted to do the bars and put it on paper for me. This adds about 1/2 inch to the height of the current cage and is about 1.5 inches longer. I am hoping it makes a little extra room in there for helmet growth. We will see how this works out....
Yep, that's the one nobody has and I can't afford....
OK, here is my concept for the roll cage... just front and back bars, required bracing to follow in pictures or metal... we will see how it works out. Feel free to comment... I am not a professional car builder....
Just so you know... I didn't draw this, my good friend Ross Powers (MC2032) listened to my description of how I was thinking I wanted to do the bars and put it on paper for me. This adds about 1/2 inch to the height of the current cage and is about 1.5 inches longer. I am hoping it makes a little extra room in there for helmet growth. We will see how this works out....
Why not tie the roll bar into the top tube instead of going all the way to the bottom tube?
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
Thomas;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cremona_diagram
What is "CREMONA"? :?
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
Yep, learn something every day. The only "Cremona" I was familiar with was the violin maker.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
I think Pork Pie has somewhat oversold Cremona. by Finite Element Analysis programs
I have an Eastwood hydraulic bender 1-5/8 X 8" CL.
Sid.
Yeah, best to cover your a$$, no pun intended! :-D
Sid.
... onlinemetals.com has 25% off thru Wednesday. No I am not pitching products, just helping my fellow racers find material at a reasonable price. These guys had the best price before 25% off.
Just for fun, I put the new hoop next to the old hoop so I could see how much more helmet room we have.... I looks like we will be able to move our heads.... going from 6 inch CL radius to 7.5 and planning to be about a 1/2 inch taller. We will see what we get.Just don't get a big head over your results! :-o :-D :-o :-D :cheers: :cheers:
the drivers view...you can see through the windshield....1/2 inch deeper you see your toes......with shoe size 11+ you be disqualified to drive the Bockscar.... :roll:Good to know. My shoe size is 8 so I guess I would qualify although my sight line might be a bit short at 23".
the top rails are 24" outside to outside, the side rails are 16" top to bottom. the top of the roll bar is apprx 9.5 inches above the top rails. driving position is almost prone. so, in positon with a helmet on, your eye level is just above the top rail/top of the body panel. there is some rake to the car which helps line of sight. Bob, I hope I am not giving away too many secrets/details.I only see bottom rails and top rails. What are the side rails, or are they not there yet?
What will make this cage or break it is going to be the next few tubes that Stainless installs between the junction of the front roll bar and the upper and lower frame rails. The idea is to establish load paths that will distribute the loads into the main frame rails. I know I will be watching.
Great job Stainless! Keep it up.
Rex
At Bonneville I've seen a lot of forward cage structures terminate at the top rail, not something I would do or recommend but the apparently pass tech!Only with gussets. Looks to me this type of construction is why they are specified.
Sid.
I believe the gusset rule was a result of Tom Bryant's crash.When was that? Gussets (generally, with locations not specified) are called for in the oldest rule book I have -1976- and are specified in the locations mentioned above in 1990 (but not 1987, I can't find my '88 and '89 rulebooks) so that specification was added between 87 and 90, FWIW. The drawings in the rule book do show hoops welded to the shoulder rails. I agree, always thought that not the best way. On my liner, the rear hoop was duplicated and integrated with the firewall to "gusset" it and the front had a 1/8" plate welded to and between front and rear hoops and extended down to the shoulder rails.
Sid.
I believe the gusset rule was a result of Tom Bryant's crash.
Sid.
He was a friend of mine, Dick Miller, who had a couple of Fiat dealerships in San Bernardino and Orange counties. As I remember, the chassis was an ex-dragster one.
Just read the whole thing in a couple of, er, "sittings". Tremendous work and I cant help but admire your determination.
Some age old questions came up for me, I wont go into them but they reaffirmed my thoughts on cage design.
Loving the story.
Would you mind confirming the size of the square box section (seat back supports) and the dimension from outside to outside of same (I am guessing 8" apart - the shoulder harness loops are held that far apart by those supports.John, if you are planning to do something like that you will need to get prior approval from SCTA as that rectangular tubing doesn't meet the rule 3.B.1.
Try to get full 360 degree welds on each tube by sequencing your weld/install to accommodate it. It's not always possible to achieve, but try to get as much as you can. That is what they taught us in Airframe and Powerplant school back in the '80s.I totally agree on that one, a point that is missed by many.
Try to get full 360 degree welds on each tube by sequencing your weld/install to accommodate it. It's not always possible to achieve, but try to get as much as you can. That is what they taught us in Airframe and Powerplant school back in the '80s.
You are coping???...Little early for Friday Bob............... :cheers:
For someone 'in build' working to the current rule book - how do I find out about pending changes - what do I need to be a member of and how often is that information disseminated to those members?John, as I said earlier, if you stick to rule 3.B.1. you will not need to get pre-approval.
I seem to recall there is something about membership of something on the SCTA site but it is quite buried and I haven't seen it since (I may have recalled that totally wrong) - is that the right approach?
For someone 'in build' working to the current rule book - how do I find out about pending changes - what do I need to be a member of and how often is that information disseminated to those members?
I seem to recall there is something about membership of something on the SCTA site but it is quite buried and I haven't seen it since (I may have recalled that totally wrong) - is that the right approach?
Stainless
I'm on your side.
You do know that "y'all" is singular. You need to say all y'all for it to be plural. :-D :-D :-D
Ron
Stainless
I'm on your side.
You do know that "y'all" is singular. You need to say all y'all for it to be plural. :-D :-D :-D
Ron
Stainless lived in Arkansas and LA long enough to know that. LA is Louisiana, as all y'all know :-D
Johnboy
Welded all but about 3/4 inch of the hoop, going to the welding store this morning to see if they have a #3 long nozzle to try to get into the tight area.... You know that corner that you paint yourself into... Couldn't see any other option... the little tube braces will also be a challenge.... at least for me...
Handy little buggers here...
Jerry, the parts are made... It is a little tight to finish welding them... thus the rub... The long 3 won't fit in the space between the tubes... so bad planning on my part... when I was mocking it up it looked like it was doable.
I will find a way :cheers:
PJ, When you say large, do you have a pic of what you are trying to explain to me... I'm not a pro but I am always willing to learn and try.... I have a Weldcraft 20 water cooled torch on an old Aircrafter 330 tig.
If your're not busy this week I'd be happy to have you drop by to demo.... :roll: ya I know... :cheers:
edit... hopefully the local Miller store is a good welding supply, they did have long #3 in stock.
Jerry, the parts are made... It is a little tight to finish welding them... thus the rub... The long 3 won't fit in the space between the tubes... so bad planning on my part... when I was mocking it up it looked like it was doable.
I will find a way :cheers:
PJ, When you say large, do you have a pic of what you are trying to explain to me... I'm not a pro but I am always willing to learn and try.... I have a Weldcraft 20 water cooled torch on an old Aircrafter 330 tig.
If your're not busy this week I'd be happy to have you drop by to demo.... :roll: ya I know... :cheers:
edit... hopefully the local Miller store is a good welding supply, they did have long #3 in stock.
Pete
Ugly Ronnie! :x :x :evil:
Pete
Handy little buggers here...
A stupid question... what are these things?
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
I've built a lot of headers over the years including some snake pits but I tack it all together first then take it apart & fully weld the primaries then put it back together & weld the ends. I never have any welds I can't get to.
Sid.
Jerry, I must refer you to post 1 of this thread... to refresh your slipping memory.... I didn't want to spend half of my retirement building/rebuilding this car... only willing to go 30%.... don't want to cut into my beverage budget.... already have a couple of tools on order, but I am willing to accept non tax deductible donations of dark malt beverages and/or really good whiskey. Ryes on par with Great Lakes Distillery Repeal Reserve or Menominee Valley Single Batch are always welcome.
Almost any distilled spirit with a hand written bottle number is completely acceptable. :roll: :cheers:
Do the hoop connector tubes meet the 1-5/8" rule?
Sid.
Will your helmet go out side of cage at any angle , openings look a little large ?? STEVE
Back to front suspension. The 1 x 2 x .188 wall I ordered showed up so I started working on the parts the 4 bar rod ends attach to. Got one finished, the other needs a little more work to get it in. If we had not had company over for dinner and if I had not had several beers, I would have pictures of both of them in and connected to the axle....
but Ross (MC2032) brought over a couple of beers... Spiced Bock and Kansas Hi-Test Stout..... and then we decided we should have a Dragons Milk to compare to the Hi-Test.... so much for working on the car....
After Ross and Billy left I decided I should try Fordboy's Jack and Dr Pepper... but I didn't have any Jack so I substituted 16 year old Bushmills Irish Whiskey.... then I couldn't bring myself to mix that with anything so I showed it the DP can and you know what... Fordboy was right... it is really good... :-o :roll:
But I digress... here's where I think I'm headed :cheers:
Oooh...aaah....damascening :cheers:
Oooh...aaah....damascening :cheers:
I think it is actually "engine turning". "Damascene" is hammering gold wire into engraved grooves in the base metal- an art highly developed in Japan.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
Stainless,
In a lot of situations I have taken a longer bolt than what was required, but with the correct shank length, and have cut off the excess threaded portion. Mostly this was done when bolts were in shear. NEVER had a problem. In fact, using the correct shank length always works out better for the mounting tabs. I've even redrilled cotter pin holes in shortened bolts, etc. I always clean up the cut end on a lathe.
And I echo Neil about shear mounted fasteners. All that is needed is a reduced height locknut.
:cheers:
Fordboy
Which one is Fred??? I had a cat named Fred...She was a girl..Named for Fred Duesenberg...I went to flood coolant to eliminate the smoke from oil/ brush method..turns out the smoke was from my cigar :cheers:
Fred and Sophi helped me haul it to the shop :cheers:
It's a famous hammer. This morning I mentioned/showed it to Nancy. She asked why I was laughing at the pics...and now she knows how important that hammer is to Stainless.
Rex, the "One Pound" refers to how many times you have to pound something to accomplish a task. :cheers:
Wayno
Stainless;
Make sure the Watts linkage is level at your final ride height, otherwise the rear axle will shift left & right on bumps.
It looks like you are using some square & rectangular tubing in your chassis, too.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
....Welding starts tomorrow...
I will be taking a couple of days off while the Docs rework my electrical system :| unfortunately my pump is running at 44-55 as long as I am up and moving... 41-38 if I am sitting down.... so Wednesday I get a timer installed... I have been resisting that but the doc says this is the fix to raise my energy level a little.
My buddy Ross is afraid I will end up like a 10 year old on a sugar high since I have always run slow... :roll:
:cheers:
The one thing I found out is when they installed the new ECU, the wiring is a little fragile at first, so for a few days they want my left arm in a sling.... and they suggested that I might want to wear that sling anytime I am in the shop to prevent inadvertent motion with that arm. Since there is very little pain associated with the arm movement they were right to suggest that...
Seems quiet here but I have been busy making parts for the Watts Link. All the parts are made but some need to be welded together and others need welded in place.... but with any luck you will get the idea of where things are going with the pictures.
Welding starts tomorrow...
I will be taking a couple of days off while the Docs rework my electrical system :| unfortunately my pump is running at 44-55 as long as I am up and moving... 41-38 if I am sitting down.... so Wednesday I get a timer installed... I have been resisting that but the doc says this is the fix to raise my energy level a little.
My buddy Ross is afraid I will end up like a 10 year old on a sugar high since I have always run slow... :roll:
:cheers:
A couple of weeks ago KC and I went to Rocky Mountain National Park and were over 12,000 feets. Not long enough for the nitrogen in our blood to get goofy though. :cheers:
Wayno
Being in Bolivia is slowing my progress as well
I am trying to update the Ack in Bolivia thread as Subaru happens...
Still planning to put the whip to you next year for the DLRA meet... I'll be there way earlier I hope.
I must be missing something- it looks to me that it will behave like an infinitely-stiff anti-roll bar. :?No suspension guru here, but I agree with Jack, but I don't think that is a bad thing on a narrow car. That being the case, I would box up the two arms to make sure there isn't any flex side to side. Otherwise, I think that 1" x 2" cross bar will take a sh*t kicking and may crack at the welds as one side tries to move independently from the other.
...Tom Burkland .... is not a flat bottom car fan....
Sum, We try to limit the amount of air going under and give the air under a place to go. Nose down, tail up
The 'Porkpie' influence and a good one.....
I cannot see the logic of running the tires close to the body as in my thinking they interfere with what we hope is the smooth and attached air as it flows down the side of the car.
Ross (MC2032) came by for a beer, so we hacked one of the tubes in two and threw it into the hydraulic tube bender. Beer helps with the decision making process.
Don't mind the clutter.... I always forget to straighten up a little before I take a pic or two
(https://www.sott.net/image/s15/309229/large/maxresdefault.jpg)
:cheers:
Mike
Don't mind the clutter.... I always forget to straighten up a little before I take a pic or two
What's the point? Cleanup is "wasted effort" and so: over-rated . . . .
Besides, as soon as the pics are taken, it's back to the "goat explosion" anyway.
Looking good Bob.
:cheers: and Happy Holidaze . . . .
Mark
I'm hijacking your Build Diary to say that I'm bottling a batch of P-38 Porter today. :cheers:That's not a hijack - that's a public service announcement. :cheers:
Wayno
I'm hijacking your Build Diary to say that I'm bottling a batch of P-38 Porter today. :cheers:That's not a hijack - that's a public service announcement. :cheers:
Wayno
How bout a stocking stuffer for SS1. :-D
I'm hijacking your Build Diary to say that I'm bottling a batch of P-38 Porter today. :cheers:Send Bob`s share to Rev.Jer...It`ll be safe `til August :cheers:
Wayno
My bad, I left the dead blow hammer on the mill when we (Stainless) were "adjusting" the Sportster carb jetting. Back to your regularly scheduled programming.
WTF ??? El Kabong take a break?
My bad, I left the dead blow hammer on the mill when we (Stainless) were "adjusting" the Sportster carb jetting. Back to your regularly scheduled programming.
Also an appropriate tool for reactivating an SU electric fuel pump.
In fact, back in the day, if you ordered an MG with wire wheels, the factory included one with the tool kit.
Little buggers were right there in a piece of tubing weren't they ? Looks great (as always) BobYes they were and interestingly enough, the tube is the same, or close enough, diameter as the grinder wheel on the grinder my neighbor gave me when he moved. :-D
Is that CNC gas pedal the hydraulic one?.
All looking good Stainless.👍👍👍👍
The parachute has a spring loaded pilot... the yellow part of the retainer/releaser is made from flat bungee cord. I will load the chute to make it more clear. If you look back a little you will see the electric release (with mechanical backup) so you see how it is done.
I had to watch it several times to figure out the grey rod thing.... it is the water tank rubber overflow vent tube... innocent bystander... and the clips that hold the retainers will not swing either, they will be fixed when the bolt is tightened. That bolt also retains the parachute bridle to the car.
I am still noodleing the steering wheel mount... made a couple pieces yesterday that I didn't like... back to the napkin.... :roll:
:cheers:
Thanks for the reminder, Don, and Many Happy Returns of the Day to you, Mr. Stainless, Sir! Happy Birthday.
Thanks for the reminder, Don, and Many Happy Returns of the Day to you, Mr. Stainless, Sir! Happy Birthday.
How hard can it be to remember your birthday :roll: Happy Birthday to you as well Slim... :cheers:
It is hard on the welder to use it when plugged into remote outlets or extension cords. A low line voltage is compensated for by higher amperage to produce the energy for the weld. The bigger amps can damage the welder. Recent experience showed me this when the circuit board fried when my welder was plugged into a remote outlet with low line voltage.
It is hard on the welder to use it when plugged into remote outlets or extension cords. A low line voltage is compensated for by higher amperage to produce the energy for the weld. The bigger amps can damage the welder. Recent experience showed me this when the circuit board fried when my welder was plugged into a remote outlet with low line voltage.
That was the first advice I got from Guido when I bought my welding machine. Beware of extension cords.
Same guy also remembered that my emergency generator plugs into the welder receptacle to power the house when the lines out here fail.... yes I do disconnect from the grid when I do that.
Anyone doing this by using the main breaker should be very careful and double check that power isn't going back out into the gridwhere it could seriously injure those working to restore power. Main breakers have been known to fail, that's why a proper transfer switch is specified under code for such use. A LSR buddy bought an old house to rehab, flipped the main to do some electrical work only to discover he was working on live circuits......
Ed
RR et al.
I pop the main breaker and the disconnect at the meter...
Thanks for the details! I can relax more better now, as you were :cheers:
Ed
Quasi-related....Way back when I was a young Floydian I worked in a structural fab. shop. The wiring on the plug end of a welder got yanked out and one of my co-workers replaced it. After he finished, I re-connected the machine to the 3 phase 480 volt outlet. He did not understand wiring quite as well as some of we others did. Loudest pop I had heard up to that point. After correcting Frank`s error I decided to check the fuse, just knowing it was toast. Shut off the box..pulled the fuse...Un-screwed the end and out fell a length of 3/8 hot rolled round stock. :-o :-o :-o End of hijack...Looking good Bob.
Quasi-related....Way back when I was a young Floydian I worked in a structural fab. shop. The wiring on the plug end of a welder got yanked out and one of my co-workers replaced it. After he finished, I re-connected the machine to the 3 phase 480 volt outlet. He did not understand wiring quite as well as some of we others did. Loudest pop I had heard up to that point. After correcting Frank`s error I decided to check the fuse, just knowing it was toast. Shut off the box..pulled the fuse...Un-screwed the end and out fell a length of 3/8 hot rolled round stock. :-o :-o :-o End of hijack...Looking good Bob.Better than a roll of pennies! :-o :-D
Yes it has been quiet here... the car will not make SpeedWeek... still body building and a lot of other work to be done. I took the car to Denver for sheet metal work and then joined it last week to do fiberglass. Pictures to follow soon, a little busy right now.
Yep that means I have a pre-entry to sell to you or the SCTA... :cheers:
I will be at SpeedWeek crewing for Ross (MC2032)
Stainless, sorry if I missed it but what is the frontal area comparison between old and new?
Don
SS & John Boy --
(Where in the fukk do these ???s come from?)
Stainless, sorry if I missed it but what is the frontal area comparison between old and new?
Don
Almost the same. The lower part of the car is still 24" wide and 16" high. The roll cage is about 5/8 inch bigger. The canopy is larger to miss the cage. The engine cover stays the same as the canopy till past the motor then tapers to the tail. The other engine cover was smaller for the 750cc motor but had bumps to clear the Busa. Computers say the new car should go through the air better because it is smoother. We hope to find that is the case at Speed Week.
John Boy
New body looks amazing Stainless, you're not going to let Johnboy drive it are you?? :-
A long time ago I helped a friend build a space framed sports racing car. When we finished welding the frame up and putting on all the brackets we sandblasted the frame outside and then spray painted it with highway yellow anti rust paint using spray bombs, again, outside. When the frame was finished it was a really nice bright yellow as were both the painters! :-D :-D :-D
We've become a lot more conscious of safety since those early (fun) days. :-D :-D :-D
It's a wonder we ever survived them!
Pete
Have you used the Rustolium self etching primer before and if so what is your experience? Nice frame!
Did you order the kit with the SS pistons :cheers:
The Bockscar ran in blown and unblown classes... this Bockscar will as well.... when we run blown we have a filter box that is fed by the NACA duct, the filtered air then goes to the turbo.
My bandsaw hated the stuff, my .062 parting tool wandered a little, of course to part off 2 1/2 inches I might have had it stuck out a little too far.Table saw or radial arm work nice with a laminate blade. Fluffy white dust everywhere.
I am just catching up with the (re)build; great progress. The sentence implies when you run n/a you don't connect the NACA to the filter box? Does n/a just breath the engine bay and environs air or does the filter box feed the ITBs / intake instead of the turbo?
Thanks
John
... plenty of room for 20 lbs of nitrous...
Just kidding :cheers:
Stainless, will your fuel pump survive methanol or E-85?
John
Jerry... sit down... take a deep... El Kabong suffered a work related injury today... he can still handle 50% of his duties.... but he may be medically retired... or moved to a less stressful job.... don't know yet...
I know I am jumping ahead here but ... per rule 3.D.3 how will legs be restrained?
This is not some sort of fetish question but rather I am starting to noodle that for the Squeeze of Lemming and would like some ideas.
... to help any old people that get in the car get out..Be glad you're not one of the "old people". I'm almost to the point of needing a lift-chair to exit the lakester. :-(
I'm not sure how your strap will work . . .
But years ago, I put a cross bar behind the steering wheel to aid in getting out of our roadster. You'd take the steering wheel out and then struggle to move forward and up to get out.
This would solve the (not very big) problem! After welding and painting and thinking good thoughts came the trial. It seems that you'd have to be an Olympic gymnast in order to take advantage of it. It's very hard to aid in pulling yourself up when the bar is slightly below your shoulders.
You can enter/exit with the steering wheel in place?
Don, we have a couple of ducts we made using our metal one as a mold... they are good, but the metal one has square corners and seems to grab and flow air better.... this is based on unmeasured data... just the way it feels
Jack, the opening for the scoop is about 18 inches... the transition duct is about 8 inches...Thanks. Hope to look you up on the salt.
I think we will be ready for SpeedWeek... I'm entered. :cheers:
Good luck on completion Bob....Maybe you should take El Kabong with you and bury him in a place of honor?
Regarding your control panel, what's an "ING"? cromag
Wayno
Regarding your control panel, what's an "ING"? cromag
Wayno
3 words Bob....Belhaven Scottish Ale. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
I just came for the beer review. Car looks good too.Trent good to see you around.... so today I had Catherine III, a locally brewed barrel aged Russian Imperial Stout.. very tasty... luckily it's been here a while, they were shut down for a while making hand sanitizer... word is they are back in the beer business.
Looking darn nice Bob....Did you have a chance to try Founder's Breakfast Stout before the lefties whined about the baby on the label?? Racing!!
... Jack, I have one...Pretty obvious that I'm a rookie...
Post another one when they're finished.
Yo Bob...
Thanks guys... only about a weeks worth of work left... :?
But I'm trying to get that done tomorrow.... Ross (MC2032) has been helping all weekend... OK... for the last 2 years... we got it on the ground with John Goodman's (ggl205) help and coaching on suspension... rolled it out and managed a "half a dozen" point turn around to face it the other way. It has seen the light of day on it's own wheels
:cheers:
What a sexy looking little thing you guys have created---congrats to all from PP>SS and all in between!! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
(..and by the way..which one's Pink?) :cheers:
(..and by the way..which one's Pink?) :cheers:
Welcome to the (new) machine.
Now stop upping records and let the new kids have a turn :-D
I think it will be fun... especially if Lemming John joins the fun.... and the best part... you can be there SpeedWeek 2021
So Bob...What you are saying is there is more left in the new car??? Sweet! :cheers:
In other words turn the screw slightly, like 1 turn, on your coil overs and remeasure.
Stainless, you are unbalanced, stay out of the car you're making things worse. lol8
Good work, Stainless. Now that you have a few of the wrinkles ironed out, I am anxious to hear how the car handles at WF.
John
I am pleased I am at least in the park though I don't know what the game is; all I know is it needs balls.
The rear brake rotor is a fabricated part and the caliper is from a 1980 Kawasaki.
OK guys... I have 12 ORB on order, none available in Wichita...
12 ORB to AN 6 fitting? Isn't that what a lathe is for?? Carry on, JB
Mmm..... Anodized.
Did it make the power you wanted? :cheers:
Just don't post the number....I cannot drink that many Vernor's. :cheers:
It made the power I expected... for the spring I have in the gate... I do have more spring, the injectors are at 45% duty and the Motec will adjust for MAP... But I didn't want to go to excess unless required.... :roll:
I have my fingers crossed that Jon will get a couple of fast runs in... but we all know what can happen 1200 miles from home
You guys are going to deplete the red hat supply. :cheers:
.... But I have some already bottled, after it spent years in a wood cask...
ALWAYS better to find problems on the dyno than on the salt.
That said - don't use it all up in the bull pen. :wink:
What has that car done for Dyno numbers in the past?Last year 223.6 in fuel... this year 221.9 and 224.2 on gas, if I can get it going I will know more in 10 days.
Woohoo! Busa 1000 likes the alky and Bell intercooler!
Good luck in the morning :-D
Hi guys
I am sitting by my laptop waiting for an update :-D
Who knew an I-Bifil (I/BFL) could be so fast; holy crap that is awesome.
the right racer + full throttle....... :fridayWho knew an I-Bifil (I/BFL) could be so fast; holy crap that is awesome.
Best of luck at WF, how many hats in one season is the record I wonder? lol8
Dean
unfortunately we are running out of new drivers without a red hat..... :-D....call that a luxury problem....... :friday
fresh out from the ticker
WF 2021
Bockscar team
James Steele
I/BGL
242,942 mph in the fourth mile :cheers:
...and no stress....James picked his red hat during SW.....in the same class.... :friday
fresh out from the ticker
WF 2021
Bockscar team
James Steele
I/BGL
242,942 mph in the fourth mile :cheers:
...and no stress....James picked his red hat during SW.....in the same class.... :friday
Bob,
That is SOOO fast! Great to see you going so well, although that sprocket is sure ugly!
Rex
Bob,
That is SOOO fast! Great to see you going so well, although that sprocket is sure ugly!
Rex
It works now, thanks.
I don't know if it means much in this case but I was instructed to always run an odd and even tooth sprocket combo to maximize wear.
Don
OK, while looking for the chain video I found the one that made Johnboy jump as noticed in the film... just another dyno run but you can hear an issue... and see it a little
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUM7PGPpVeQ
:cheers:
Now that's entertainment :?
So far 2.0 is exceeding our expectations :cheers:
Motor has a bit of leak through the exhaust valves... so I'm pulling the head to take a look.
Intakes do look like they are retaining heat rather than transferring it into the seat/head...🤔 Maybe widen the margins on the valves and seats? How are the spring pressures? And, Is there any air flow past the head?
. . . OR . . .
are you seeing enough oil flow to that side of the head to draw away the heat?
If oil is collecting and raining in on the exhaust side, might it be pooling on the exhaust side at the expense of the intake side?
Do you have O2 sensors in each of the exhaust pipes? Just seems there may be a different A/F ratio in the cylinders shown to the right compared to those on the left.
Tom
Which BBQ was that? We have several here in Doodah.Selmons... on Greenwich.. across from Beech... Now called 2 Brothers... the burnt ends were tasty... next time we will go to my favorite... B&C, 3rd and Washington.
Is the water pump the same as the 1000?
Speaking of the oil - Stainless, I know you have spent lots of time racing with the Amo brothers, and that they have enjoyed many successes on the salt,but please think twice about using any oil they give you. lol8
How long does an engine swap take when switching classes?? (Not including breaks to maintain proper hydration level )
Well Jerry he never really quit working.... I see him as an advocate for change... always involved in gentle persuasion :roll: :laugh:
Yes Rex, exhaust manifold building is quite painful... I haven't given up yet, but as luck would have it my federal and state income tax return refunds just hit the bank... I filed way back on the 15th :-o so 5 days later the bank tells me payments pending on the 22nd and 24th... that means there is racing cash waiting to become a turbo exhaust manifold if I decide it's too painful. But I have watched a couple of videos that contained some helpful ideas. That and searching the net has turned up some merge collectors that puts the me at less than a dollar an hour for my unfinished attempt... plus materials :? I guess if I was running the Indy 500 or building for the F1 series I would seek out 321... but it seems to be fairly rare and expensive. I need to get 200 miles out of my 304... about 1/4 of that as dyno miles... maybe more. I guess I'll run a cost analysis in the middle of the night and make a decision on what to do. cromag or just have a beer and admit there are things best left to the trained professionals. :friday
Of course that is not going to happen today... back to the shop :cheers:
I think I should start this post with
Pay attention when using power tools... I have one of these that is battery powered... maybe I should buy more batteries.... or be more careful when I put it down before it completely stops
I think I should start this post with
Pay attention when using power tools... I have one of these that is battery powered... maybe I should buy more batteries.... or be more careful when I put it down before it completely stops
I think this will work... set torch flow, open purge ball valve slightly to increase flow by about 1/2 of torch flow.... I don't have a bunch of plugs, but Linda has a roll of foil in the kitchen...
Looks good Bob.......And jeez that car is small.😐
Looks good Bob.......And jeez that car is small.😐
A filter to keep possible disintegrating turbo debris out of the engine?
I.... now we even know what it fits... ya know, when you go in there and they always ask what car you're working on... they can't find a part unless they know what you're working on...
I am not a rivnut fan and I have use plenty of them. If it is a part that is removed quite often then I will guarantee you that the rivnut will eventually start spinning in its hole. I prefer the aircraft style nut plates that have a floating nut, that is also a deformed thread lock nut. Typically installed with 3/32 dia rivets and you can counter sink the hole. If you do use rivnuts I have found that if you do NOT debur the hole the burrs around the hole will help the insert to not rotate (at least not right away). Aircraft Spruce for nut plates.True! A nutplate is a far better option... if you have access to the rear of the panel.
Rex
Two torpedo tubes in the bow?
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ii147/SeldomSeenSlim/C60C8F29-DC71-46E5-9CB5-19010A6484EF.jpeg)
Arrived and passed tech... the extra "do nothing" bar on the cage made everyone happy. All else was same as last year... Prepped to run.... by now you know the rest of the story... It rained hard again last night.... camera on the salt showing standing water again... the BNI sales trailer is moved to the bend so folks can buy stuff.... I'll go out and get team programs and stuff in a bit.
I doubt there will be track enough to allow us the speeds we need to beat from last year... I guess we will see... :cry:
Arrived and passed tech... the extra "do nothing" bar on the cage made everyone happy. All else was same as last year... Prepped to run.... by now you know the rest of the story... It rained hard again last night.... camera on the salt showing standing water again... the BNI sales trailer is moved to the bend so folks can buy stuff.... I'll go out and get team programs and stuff in a bit.
I doubt there will be track enough to allow us the speeds we need to beat from last year... I guess we will see... :cry:
I looked back a few pages but could not find this bar you are refering to?
Arrived and passed tech... the extra "do nothing" bar on the cage made everyone happy. All else was same as last year... Prepped to run.... by now you know the rest of the story... It rained hard again last night.... camera on the salt showing standing water again... the BNI sales trailer is moved to the bend so folks can buy stuff.... I'll go out and get team programs and stuff in a bit.
I doubt there will be track enough to allow us the speeds we need to beat from last year... I guess we will see... :cry:
I looked back a few pages but could not find this bar you are refering to?
Try around reply #1107 on page 74.
Can't race so I decided to drag the Bockscar to the Tyler Harvey Memorial Car Show in Potwin, Kansas this Saturday. I generally let kids of all ages sit in the car...
I printed 100 4x6 pics to give to kids after they sit in the car... my goal is to run out.
The original Bockscar hosted kids under 1 on parent's lap all the way to 92
:cheers: