Landracing Forum
Bonneville Salt Flats Discussion => Bonneville General Chat => Topic started by: kustombrad on August 07, 2014, 10:38:43 AM
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I decided since this would be my last trip as a spectator (if all goes well and I get the 'Liner done!) I was going to drive my hot rod '49 Chevy pickup to the salt. I've seen lots of different opinions on what to do as far as prep, but I figured I'd do what all my Sprint Car racing friends do. I went and grabbed a gallon of WD40 and a small hudson-type sprayer, put the truck on jack stands out in the dirt and drenched the underside! I figured if it keeps that really sticky clay from sticking to EVERYTHING it would probably work well with this too! I'll let everyone know how the salt rinses off.
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Then, when you get home, use very gentle sprinkler.
Keep moving it about to hit all surfaces.
Pressure washers just drive the salt into hidden crevices, where it goes to work like a gang of metal termites.
Salt Away is a product that seems to work fairly well.
A few years back a guy named Don Cyr, from Illinois, said he uses Johnson Jubilee acrylic floor wax in the same type sprayer.
He has a really tender mid 50's Ford coupe.
This subject has been discussed on this forum may times.
If you can find the correct phrase, try the search engine at the top of the page.
Best wishes and good luck.
Jim
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+1 on the lawn sprinkler :wink:
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Guess I worried for nothing! :(
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Wash about three times as long as you think you need to do.
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And that goes for the Pickup as well....... :-D
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Put a spinning sprinkler on a stick, mines about 5' long, and slowly move it down the vehicle. If you live in where you have a 6" curb put the wheels up on it; when your done in one direction turn it around and do it again. When that's done put in on jack stands and remove all the wheels, then the drums if you have them. I like floor polish also started using it years ago.
If you can don't bring an aluminum engine vehicle because it turns in to Alka-Selzer in a short time. No matter how I protected a trans mission in a few years they really looked bad. So do Altenators.
My new truck won't be up there...Al engine....I'll rent first.....JD
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Last year I got a gallon can of military surplus semi-fluid machine gun lube. The stuff is applied before leaving home as a thin film on metal parts with a rag. It works great and better than anything else I have used.
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The kitchen floor wax seems to work really well. I spray on a coat, wait an hour then hit it again. Everything you can see, spray with wheels off and the car on stands. Let it dry again, and be very careful because of the overspray on the garage floor. On any car headed to the salt, or any car with aluminum wheels, grease the hub where the wheel touches, and the lug studs. Yes, it make a mess when you first drive, but the wheels will never need to be destroyed to get them off. When you get home, remove all the wheels, and use an oscillating sprinkler under the car for about eight hours. Let it dry, then go under there on a creeper with a bright light and a screw driver. Anything that is light metal with rust I clean with a SS brush and spray with red oxide rattle car prime, then paint. Any fastener that looks rusted needs a heavy coat of WD40. To remove the wax from anything, a water ammonia mix will do the trick. Always use goggles, this stuff burns eyes like crazy. For an everyday pickup, find a Ziebart dealer. Its a great investment at less than 400 bucks. Use it on anything when its new.
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The subject of corrosion prevention has been visited many times on this site, but I might have a new product for your consideration. While shopping at HOME DEPOT for the Blaster brand penetrating oil and lube spray I buy there, I noticed a new (to me) can. Blaster Powerful Corrosion Stop." Corrosion Stop fights salt and chemicals from the atmosphere, corrosion and salt water" They make claims on there can of $4.64 product that sounds like the perfect product for many of us. I lost a trailer and 3 trucks to the salt and have swore "NEVER AGAIN". I think for about $25 I can address most of the areas on my trailer and truck that are most susceptible to damage. Man do those alternators and A/C pumps look bad after a few months. Hate it when after a few months the E-brake assembly locks up. Go to www.BlasterCorp.com. and read for yourself. XXX Thanks for this site Slim. George
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This works the best after for me after using all sorts of other stuff. The bike, etc. is wiped down with a rag saturated with this before the race. The object is to leave an oily film. "LSA Lubricating Oil, Semi-Fluid, MIL-L-46000C." The bike gets rinsed real good after the event with lots of cold water. It dries and I put on another application for winter storage.
The chain is taken off immediately after the last run and it is soaked in cold water and put somewhere to dry in the sun. This is brushed on it "Lubricant, Weapon, Semi-Fluid, High Load Carrying Capacity, MIL-L-46150." The stuff has an expiration date and when I find it at the surplus store it is past that. It seems to work just fine. In face, it is amazingly good. The chain was lubed with it before the dyno session, we did about 45 pulls, and it barely needs adjustment now.