Not sure if this is the best place for this, but some will read it. Lots of check lists of things to bring to the races, but I haven't seen one for between the runs. Here's a list I started last night. Feel free to add to it.
Things that need checking:
Crashes caused by mechanical failures are the worst ones that I've had. Some of them could be prevented by using a standard check of some of the things that are prone to failure and not the responsibility of the inspector.
1.) Drive chain. Should not be able to be pulled off the rear sprocket. Master links should be cleaned with brake clean and "glued" together with silicone or better yet, plumbers goop (polyurethane glue). Check tightness as well.
2.) Rear inner fender. Should be sufficient to at least deflect oil, water, gasoline, or loose parts from your rear tire.
3.) Front fender - - same as above.
4.) Oil drain plugs and filler plugs: Should be safety wired to prevent loosening. Same with oil filter.
5.) Breather hoses and carb vents. Should be directed into a metal catch can to prevent liquids from coating your rear tire or worse yet, catching on fire.
6.) Tubes: If you run tubes, you should use a new tube each time you replace a tire. They can develop wrinkles, even worn spots from spoke ends and from your tire irons. I've pinched more tubes than I care to mention. In fact, I recently switched to aluminum wheels to use tubeless tires just to assure myself that I don't have an almost pinched or worn tube where I cannot inspect it.
7.) Loose nuts and bolts: Always, always, always check your bike over before each run to ensure something hasn't got loose. More important on our old bikes that vibrate a lot, but still a good practice. Clutch and brake handle perches, throttle sleeves, foot pegs, shift linkage, exhaust mounts, and motor mounts are all prone to coming loose.
8.) Loose accessory mounting brackets: As above
9.) Pull test on oil, water, and gas lines: Hose clamps always seem to like another turn.
10.) Carb vents: I like to use clear or translucent Tygon tubing for my carb vents which are routed to my catch can. My carb doesn't leak while sitting still, but I always find gas in it at the end of a run. Without the vent being routed to the catch can, that gas would probably be on my tire or my leg.
11.) Spokes: The "ping" test with a screwdriver or other metallic tool will usually show up a loose spoke.
12.) Handlebars, clip ons. Don't be afraid to grab the bars and give them a good shake. They do get loose.
13.) Triple clamps: Should be checked by loosening up your dampner (don't forget to re-tighten), putting the front wheel between your legs, and giving the bars a good twist. This will show up a weak clamp or fork. Also, by moving the front end fore and aft, any play in your headstock bearings should be apparent. I find the best way to set them is to loosen the upper triple clamp pinch bolts, then loosen the headstock nut and re-tighten it up to contact and then just a 1/8 turn to set them (ball bearings). With tapered roller bearings, over-tighten them up a bit and then back them off a 1/4 turn. Then re-tighten the upper triple clamp pinch bolts. After you do this, do the grab and twist check again. (Please correct me on this item if you know better!)
14.) Wheel bearings: Spinning the wheels, without the drive chain on the rear and the brakes backed off, will usually show up tight or rough bearings. But also grab the wheel when suspended and try to move it sideways. This should show up worn bearings or worn swing arm bushings.
15.) Dzus fasteners: Make sure each one is tight and completely seated both before and after each run. If one turns up missing (if any part turns up missing), alert a member of the track crew.
16.) Inside your fairing: All sorts of small tools, nuts, screws, washers get dropped inside of fairings, only to fall out on the track. At Loring, even a screwdriver and a hole saw were found during a track sweep.
17.) Frame cracks: I like to keep my frame clean and shiny(not an easy task on an old British bike!) so I can check for cracks in the paint, indicating the beginning of a frame crack. Suspension mounting points and engine mounting brackets and their attachment areas are prone to cracking.
18.) Tires: Check your tire pressure. Also, the high horsepower bikes can throw off chunks of rubber.
19.) Rear wheel adjusters: On the older bikes, these can loosen up and even fall off. Make sure they're tight - use Loctite if possible; mine are safety wired as well.
20.) Belly pan: When I ran the bike in the "open" class, I made up a simple aluminum belly pan fastened on with hose clamps and zip ties. Kept the salt out and oil drips and parts inside.
Tom