My word; that's a deep dive into the cellars. Looking.....
Company service info doesn't recognise this level of detail for the LR model using K1.8. Rover is no more; aftermarket now supports all of those owners.
Turning to cumulative wisdom of those who were here during those days and are still here now;
To our understanding, the connector on the pigtail has three flat pins in a row. It's rectangular in cross-section. It has a moulding with two ribs on both long sides, one side close together, one side far apart (relatively).
Holding the connector with the far-apart ribs down and looking from the wiring side, so seeing the individual wires as they enter the 'back' of the connector moulding, pin 1 is the RH pin, pin 2 central, and pin 3 LH side.
In that context pin 3 is ground, pin 2 is signal, pin 1 is +12v.
It seems that the centre pin is signal, whether viewed from the pin side or the wire side of the connector moulding. Checking now if we have a view of polarity sensitivity...
It also seems the feature on the cam that the cam sensor sees is a step-up in diameter and a step-down in diameter 180' apart. It looks like a small balance weight, or a flange that's removed over half its' circumference. The sensor sees steel appear near to it, then disappear. The sensor signal will be a spike in one direction when it sees step-up in dia and steel appears, other direction when it sees step-down in dia.
So, if the collected wisdom turns out to be tosh but the sensor isn't fried then the signal will be wrong by 180' camshaft rotation.
Oh, did you perhaps get an engine harness on the donor motor? Guess not, or you'd have looked at that already.
More later...
I reposted Forker's post because I'm very grateful for his research, but this damned cam sensor is where I'm STILL stuck.
"Company service info doesn't recognise this level of detail for the LR model using K1.8. Rover is no more; aftermarket now supports all of those owners."This probably explains how I was able to get the entire engine shipped from a Birmingham breaker to the United States for ~$750.00.
The sensor is described and sold as a hall effect sensor - 3 terminals. That said, I've also seen it advertised on a few aftermarket sites as a magnetic sensor.
All hail the aftermarket . . .
Yeah, I know - my monkey, my circus.
Electronics guys - check me on this - I'm trying to avoid a brain-fart.
So the confusion is this - There is a magnet in the sensor itself, which I believe biases the output of the sensor. (
) I'm hypothesizing that when the ferrous cam lobe - a 180 degree half-moon arrangement described by Forker - passes the face of the sensor, this action causes a change in the flux field produced by the magnet built into the sensor housing, and produces a signal seen by the ecu.
Now if that's how it works, I should be able to apply voltage to the unit and see a signal output voltage (or change in output), by simply hooking it up to a meter and passing a piece of steel past the face of the sensor.
I'm seeing nothing.
The reason I'm sounding this out is that most of what I read about hall effect sensors used in automotive applications state that the magnet is separate from the housing. I know that's how the Pertronix ignitions work, and all of the hall effect components that Holley sells uses this same method.
One other thing - I think both Forker and I have assumed that this unit is 12 volt, but I'm reading a lot of stuff about automotive hall effect sensors operating on a 5 V reference. I can't find a confirming resource on this part, and my fear is that I may have blown this piece out.
Any thoughts?