OCT, You're gunna get the guys that say you cant live without a dry sump. There's miles of wet sumps screaming there nuts off all over the world for a lot longer than we can at the salt & doing it well. I've run marathon boats in the past that ran 8000 plus for 1 1/2 hrs on 7qts of oil with a closed cooling system & pulling 2 skiers. Like I said, the oil has to be where the pump can get it even on a dry sump. A remote filter is alot simpler to service & if you use a
system 1 or an oberg type you will have a better chance of catching a problem early & while you're out there, hang a cooler on it if you need to. Windage tray & crank scraper on either system are a given. It takes more hp to drive 5 oil pumps than 1. Rule of thumb for a dry sump is 3 to 1, 1 feed to 3 scavenge & that's an absolute minimum. On either system you need to stop the crank from tossing the oil up into the engine, thats the hp killer & in a bad scenario, an engine killer. Run a 30lb idiot light on the thing so it will alert you to a prob early, it doesn't matter if it's on at idle but if you're in the 3 with ya foot down the intake manifold you'll be glad it's there.
I had a friend come out with a new lakester a while back, C/GL SBC wet sump bla bla bla. Made a pass, scattered the eng & blamed the wet sump POS. Came back the next yr, new wiz-bang dry sump ($$$), made a pass, scattered the eng again. Convinced him to open it up & eye-ball it & it turned out he was putting 4 rods in backwards, he's been running a wet sump ever since..