Author Topic: chassis set-up  (Read 1077 times)

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Offline jim reed

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chassis set-up
« on: September 08, 2023, 01:19:15 PM »
Bike was all ready to go then the weather. Hope to get there some day. 2020 covid, 2021 I got it, then 2022 & 2023. Did the SCTA-BNI run? Any way to my point.

I know nothing about chassis set up for Bonneville. I ran a stock TZ-350 with ECTA for 4 years. Other than that I drag raced briefly on a stock framed GS1100 Suz. All my experience has been with road racing (15 yrs) and street/trail riding 56 yrs.

My Bonneville bike frame was modified by a respected shop in FL specializing in drag bikes. It has been raked to 36deg and the wheelbase stretched to 66 inches from the stock 52 inches. Using the RBRacing trail calculator the trail is 5.94 inches or 9% of the wheelbase. Given the traction of salt what is the recommended weight distribution? I presume it varies with the moisture content of the salt.

Two-stroke bikes in the A and APS 350 classes run speeds between 140-170 mph.

Offline sabat

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Re: chassis set-up
« Reply #1 on: September 08, 2023, 03:18:24 PM »
For suspension, I'm no salt pro but I'd just make sure you don't scrape the surface, and have preload and damping that works best for high speeds. You sound like you know what you're doing. For ballast, below is some info that was posted by Rex Svoboda years ago. cheers, Dean


It is a balance of forces. You have aero drag and rolling resistance that are pointing one way, and forward thrust of the wheels against the salt pointing the other when the two are equal you won't go any faster. Aero drag is pretty much a constant related to the frontal area of your car and it's coefficient of drag and the velocity that you are going and can be calculated in pounds by using this equation: Cd x 1/2(density of air in lb/cu. ft)(velocity, in feet/sec)squared x (frontal area in square feet)= pounds drag. To get velocity in ft/sec from miles/hour divide  the mph by .681 and the density of air (as sea level) is .00238 lbs/cu.ft.

So lets say your roadster has a frontal area of 12 square feet and a Cd of .75 and you want to go 200 mph. The drag force would be:
.75(.5)(.00238)(200/.681)sq x(12)=923.75 pounds force. From this number you can look at the coefficient of friction for the tire/salt and come up with an estimate of how much weight you need on the drive wheels. If the coefficient of friction was .5 you would need to have about 1850 lbs on the drive wheel. I have not included rolling resistance which is related to tires, salt conditions and car weight and can be a much more difficult thing to calculate because of the various data required that is difficult to obtain accurately.

All of this assumes that the tire is on the ground 100% of the time which as John (JL222) says it dependent on wheel rate and suspension. Nothing is easy or exact but these calculations can get you to a starting point.

Rex



Offline donpearsall

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Re: chassis set-up
« Reply #2 on: September 08, 2023, 05:34:33 PM »
Since you lengthened the wheelbase you can't run in the Production class. Did you make any engine changes? If not you could run in the Altered frame Classic Production engine (assuming the bike is pre-1981). I also assume you lengthened the wheelbase for straight line stability? Generally it is best to keep the wheel base stock to avoid increasing drag from more longitudinal area.

Also since the salt surface is bumpy, a quick return front fork and swingarm is best to keep from losing traction (may not apply on a low HP bike).

What class did you have it entered? Good luck to you for next year.

Don
550 hp 2003 Suzuki Hayabusa Land Speed Racer

Offline 55chevr

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Re: chassis set-up
« Reply #3 on: September 09, 2023, 10:21:22 AM »
I ran rigid rear for years on the salt flats and paved tracks.   At the advice of Joe Timney I went to swingarm and sprung rear and it made a huge difference on pavement. When rigid every surface anomaly unloaded the rear tire and it added another dimension to running hard. The salt flats didn's seem to care either way.  With the recent Bonneville conditions rear suspension would be the best option.

Joe

Offline stay`tee

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Re: chassis set-up
« Reply #4 on: September 09, 2023, 08:17:18 PM »
you mention weight distribution, expierence tells me not to go beyoud 40/60 "Startline" weight, on salt  :-)
First Australian to ride a motorcycle over 200mph at Bonneville,,,

Offline jim reed

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Re: chassis set-up
« Reply #5 on: September 17, 2023, 05:41:23 PM »
Thanks for all the advice,

Will be running in A-CG 350 and APS-CG 350 also maybe A-G 350 and APS-G 350. Bike has suspension on the rear. One reason I went longer on the wheelbase besides straight line stability is that I am 6' 1" and had a hard time getting comfortable and down low enough with stock wheelbase.