Matt, the local plastic shop wants to try to drape mold the PETG over the form and I told them I would do it. That will be Plan A. Plan B will be to have it made with this hanging bubble method if the cost is reasonable. Thanks for posting this.
Jon, your advice is absolutely correct. The shop compared wheel to engine rpm on a problem pull. The data showed that the clutch was slipping when the engine put out more than 70 horsepower. Aftermarket plates and springs were recommended to me when I built the motor. I was cheap and lazy. I did not put in the plates and I replaced half of the standard springs with stiff ones. The clutch will be beefed up in a few months when it gets warmer in the shop.
In a recent post I mentioned how I needle check my jets and use original equipment jets, only. I gave the mechanic the jet box with the words "All of these jets are Keihin and they have been checked for size. Use them."
There were a pair of jets marked "AB142" in that box. I somehow did not find them and toss them out. The holes in them are a size or two bigger than the orifices in Keihin #142's. The mechanic put them in, they made the bike run overly rich, and they completely confused the jetting sequence. It took a bunch of pulls and time to figure out the problem. Those AB142's were some expensive jets when I paid the bill. Dyno work is like racing. A person has to check and double check to make sure everything is OK before the big day.