If you are going full bodywork why not just move the handlebars up higher (if possible) to clear the fairing easier?
Dan, I can move my handlebars up, but they will still be wider than the fairing. I can also cut holes for my hands and forearms, but that doesn't seem like the best way. Making it wider at the front would seem to be better to me.
In order to retain as much of the fairing as tested in the tunnel......cut it down the middle and add a section in the middle to make it somewhat wider, that is what I am doing to our fairing in order to fit it on our new Rotax powered 125c.c.................................................................
Thanks, Bak189. I have considered doing this, but it already seems wide enough at the bottom. Maybe I can add a wedge shaped piece, 0 at the bottom, and wider, about 6 more inches at the top. Then again, that Gustafson windshield wouldn't work. By the way, is the Rotax 125 you're going to use the same as the old CanAm 125? I believe they were all made by Rotax originally. Also, was the rider, Bob Barker, the same one that now sells Dunlop racing tires for vintage racers?
That is a low bike ... are you going to put a window in the nose ?.... you already look thru the steering neck to see forward.
Yes, I am going to have to cut the CanAm fairing down almost to the point at which it turns under to form the fender area. That means a custom bubble type windscreen, for sure. I'll chip away at these issues over the winter -- at least I have time.
In the past I had the same task with a fiberglass fender. I ordered two of them and cut and spliced them together to get a fender for a wider tire. I cut one in half lengthwise and cut the center section out of the other. I spliced all three together to get the wider one I needed.
Bo, thanks for the suggestion. I am even considering using sheet aluminum to fab up the rest of the fairing, maybe only as a mold. Know any good sheet metal workers?
Tom