SEPTEMBER 2011
The guy that was supposed to convert the vortec distributor for me flaked, and I got tired of waiting so I just decided to modify my oem HEI unit. Cut down the weight plate into a point to act as the cam sensor trigger
Crank sensor from a early 2000’s ford escort (I believe). Although I'm starting to get the feeling those sensors are a big POS (more on that later). Might need to look into sourcing better quality ones
Fits well enough. I’ll have to figure out some sort of cover for it. Looks like a small stainless mixing bowl would work. Also, you see those brake lines? That’s the air vents on the cylinder heads. 3an lines from rear go to the T’s at the front of the heads, then dump after the thermostat. Should help greatly with getting rid of air pockets in the heads.
Welded a oil temp sensor on the tank. The more sensors the merrier
Then wrapped it with some pipe heat band
After only a few minutes
Not bad for right next to it
Well, after trying to rotate the engine, the engine just wouldn’t go. Something was hitting… Frustrated I had glued the pan on, I knew it had to come off. Yup…. Another issue of one-offs. This can be explained by not using a gasket.
Rod bolts touch. Crap. No big deal, nothing that can't be easily fixed
So I beat it out with a hammer, stripped the paint, gave it a soaking with some prep-n-etch then repainted
With the engine out to fix the oil pan, I took the liberty to start mounting my mess of hoses. The fuel cutoff T is on top and the oil distribution block is next to the midplate. The oil comes from the T on the left (mounted on oil inlet plate), then from there goes to the Tee by the midplate, where the left capped outlet is a -6an to the turbos, and the top goes to the rear of the block (oem pressure sensor location that goes directly to mains). Just to ensure lots of oil gets to the bearings
Another problem surfaced. The Tee that mounts to the oil inlet plate was about ¼” too long and hit the frame. So I’d have to modify the inlet plate…....again.....
Much better
I jumped around some more and made electrical pass throughs
Version one of crank trigger bracket
Version 2 of the tensioner mount. The first one was too far out and simply wouldn’t tighten the belt enough. This moves it closer to the belt line between the alternator and crank
Crap. I broke the stupid hydroboost mount. Oops. Looks like I'll be buying a new one instead of rebuilding this
I had a friend CNC me some mockup bushing inserts for my new LCA’s (So i dont melt the poly bushings while welding)
Also took the time to make the vacuum port for the FPR. Some ¼” quick fit tubing and fittings. I had to disassembly the FPR/drill/tap it ffrom the stock 1/16”npt to 1/8” npt.
The mess of hoses begins. Mind you, I bought all these off ebay. There’s startlite, icore Kevlar, progold fittings, goodwrench 910, 810, lots of nice ptfe, etc. What I would do is measure, buy, hope it fits, if not, I’d see what else it would possibly work for. The measure again, buy more, repeat. Saved me a ton of money. God bless old nascar parts
The mess in the rear
Front driver side is a tight fit, but luckily it worked. In the left picture, the closest to you is cold water feed to head, the one behind is the return to the thermostat section. and the big hose crossing across the bottom/front is -16 feed off water pump.
The fuel cutoff/oil T with the engine in place
Direct oil pressure gauge
Mechanical Oil pressure and the electric sensor are tapped into a port in the oil galley
Throttle pedal assembly. Some 1" tube, a couple bearings, and some leftover 3/8" rod
Welded a plate to the floor/ bolted the pedal to it/through the floor. Used some heims as support stands for the next linkage up, then to the throttle body.
Built the alternator support bracket. Mounts to the cylinder head
Cheap tool alert:
There is a -12an water return in the very front of the motor that I simply couldn’t get to. So I bought a set of harbor freight wrenches, cut them in half and notched the box end
Easy fit AN box wrenches. It solved my problem, and now I have some neat new tools to use
Battery box found a new home
Bolted it through the floor. Still need to weld some 1/8” plates on the underside for the time being
Looks like a good spot for a battery disconnect. There will be a shutoff on the rear of the car, and a lever for me to pull from the driver seat (you never know when you need to cut power)
Now I need an arm to mount some heims to control the shutoff. In comes some scrap 3/8” plate (I never throw out my scraps. They always come in handy)
Just needs a few holes for the heims (and of course to make it visually pleasing eventually)