Landracing Forum

Tech Information => Technical Discussion => Topic started by: SlyOneJr on August 25, 2009, 10:51:31 PM

Title: Rear end choice
Post by: SlyOneJr on August 25, 2009, 10:51:31 PM
Just trying to get some ideas/suggestions. Looking for a rear end that would work for an engine that is only putting out about 250, maybe 275 hp tops, that wouldn't take a lot of horsepower to run it. I know a Dana 60 or a Ford 9" would take WAY too much hp to turn it, thought about a Chevy 10 bolt, a Chrysler 8 3/4" or a Chevy 12 bolt, but I have seen several of the small displacement dragsters running in Competition eliminator in NHRA and/or Modified eliminator in IHRA that were running a Datsun rear end or a Toyota rear end and thought that they might have less drag and take less hp to run. Also saw out there on the web someone running a snowmobile powered dragster and he is using a mini sprint quick change rear end. I'm planning on putting together a small displacement lakester and/or a streamliner to run at Maxton, so a real low gear wouldn't be needed since Maxton is like a 1 mile drag race. Since I'm not looking at a lot of hp to start off with, I want to try to get as much as I can to the ground and not spend most of it trying to turn the transmission or the rear end.
Title: Re: Rear end choice
Post by: SPARKY on August 26, 2009, 08:57:39 AM
I personally like the GM 7.5 with big ford ends and ball bearings with gear selection from 2.14 to 3.08 with the 2 series carriers  you can find Torsen carriers from late model GM F series cars that have 28 splines---you will have so get special axels made.
Title: Re: Rear end choice
Post by: Joe Timney on August 26, 2009, 11:44:50 AM
Take a look at the Winters 7 inch R&P Quick Change. Ratios go from 2.39 thru 5.97. With a REM'ed R&P, drag is greatly reduced. For more details, give me a call at 302.378.3013


joe
Title: Re: Rear end choice
Post by: Jonny Hotnuts on August 28, 2009, 11:25:54 AM
Funny how a guy can think it will never see "more than" HP or speed.....

Saying this has cost me mucho buckos upgrading perfectly good parts that are no longer up for the task.

I'm just saying to consider if the parts will be able to handle the next level or more when purchasing items and avoid buying them again.....

This was a hard (and expensive) lesson for me to learn!

Good luck

~JH
Title: Re: Rear end choice
Post by: slepe67 on August 28, 2009, 11:55:00 PM
There's always the Ford 8.8 rear end.  Its just like a GM 12 bolt, only newer and it's Ford.  Mine is off of a 98 Expedition, with disc brakes, 31 spline axles, posi, and I paid $100 for it at my local You-Pull-it.  I plan to get my 302 up to about 400 HP, and plan to use this rear end.  Plenty of aftermarket goodies for it, if you should bump up the HP :-D  Just my $0.02.
Title: Re: Rear end choice
Post by: SPARKY on August 29, 2009, 12:34:53 AM
its almost like what most people call the GM 10-12 can get caddy gears to 2.28
Title: Re: Rear end choice
Post by: Buickguy3 on August 29, 2009, 08:13:37 AM
  We are using the stock Jag rear end which is a Spicer/Dana 44. It comes stock with a 2.87, but we've been looking for the optional 2.53, but nobody seems to have it or make one or anything higher. Any body know of a mfg. that makes one?
Doug :?
Title: Re: Rear end choice
Post by: SPARKY on August 29, 2009, 10:01:24 AM
I have had good luck with ebay
Title: Re: Rear end choice
Post by: jimmy six on August 29, 2009, 12:46:15 PM
Contact Gevros Gears in upstate New York. Made my day when he had a set of 2.56 Pontiacs on his work bench............JD
Title: Re: Rear end choice
Post by: Geo on August 29, 2009, 01:36:19 PM
Doug,

Here are some excerpts from a recent discussion on Jag gear changes.  I am still working on my XJS and hope to see you next year.

Geo

From the Jag-Lovers site on the XJ-S forum.

Re: [xj-s] Need to do a differential rebuild. Should I try it?

with the Jag diff I had DTS in Detroit do the ring and
pinion set-up, posi diff inspection and the stubb axle bearings. My
ring and pinion was a non Jag ring and pinion that required some
slight mods to the carrier in order to trigger my speedo sensor.


I went with the local rebuilder primarily because of
shipping costs if I had instead bought a rebuilt one from Coventry West, and
thinking that the local shop would be more responsive if things didn't work
out. If I had it to do over again I would have bought a rebuilt one from
Coventry West.

The 2:88 carrier is different from
any other. The 3.07 and lower (3.07 3.31 3.54) carriers WILL accept
any dana 44 ring and pinion WITH modification. On the corporate
dana 44 parts there are differences. The ring gear bolt sizes are
different and some pinion flange/seal mods are needed. The newer
Jeep rubicon dana parts are said to have gone back to the 7/16 ring
gear bolts though. I personally run a corporate dana 3.23 gear on
my Jag 3.31 carrier.

I've heard two versions of that story. One is that the only
difference is the size bolts used to hold the crownwheel to the
carrier. IIRC, Jaguar uses larger bolts than the standard Dana 44,
which means you'd have to drill out the holes to install it -- which
would involve machine shop work and possibly a challenging drilling
job if the gear is case-hardened at the bolt holes.

The other is that the standard Dana 44 gears are intended for truck
installations and are too noisy for Jaguar use, customers complain so
rebuilders won't use them.

There are a couple of different carriers used, you have to have the
right one for the ratio you're using. If you're changing ratio far
enough, that means you'll need a new carrier -- and those things cost
more than the gears! That's where I discovered that sending the diff
off for a rebuild got cheaper, because a rebuild shop would swap out
the carrier as required rather than charge you full price to buy one.

WELL, I changed my ratio, back in 1995, took diff. apart went
to local trans. and gear shop with just Crown& pinion, and all
bearings ,seals. he said instock, broght out parts,, and asked
what Jeep I was workin on.

anyway been 14yrs.no probs. had 3.07,went to 3.73, big
improvment,accel.
all seemed easy and straight forward,on disassem. and reass.

Yes the 2.88 carrier is unique unto itself. The next carrier is
good from a 3.07 ratio all the way up to a 3.73 gear and then you
have another split. The 3rd carrier is good from 4.10 and up. Jags
are the only dana 44 based design using 7/16 ring gear bolts
(except the reported new rubicon stuff) and every other dana 44
based platform (Jeeps, pick-ups, corvettes, etc) all use a 3/8''
ring gear bolt. DTS that set-up my diff, said that the gear swap is
quite popular and keep the required sleeves (for the smaller 3/8''
bolts into the jag carrier) in stock.
--

have a set of 4.10 gears from jeep rubicon setting on porch right
know. they have 7/16'' ring gear bolts. they are also ''thick'' gears,
meaning they will are already spaced to fit 288 carrier.
--

Great article here. http://www.ringpinion.com/ContentFrame.aspx?
FilePath=Content%2fParts%2fCarriers%2f%
2fDo_I_Really_Need_To_Buy_Another_Carrier%7e.inc
Title: Re: Rear end choice
Post by: RichFox on August 29, 2009, 03:07:58 PM
My '77 Ford F100had a Dana 44 i believe with what I remember to be 2.72s? Rediculess rear end for a truck. I replaced it with a nine inch from a '78 F150. which also had 2.72s but I had plenty of nine inch gears. Some Fords came with 2.47 nine inch rear ends. maybe they also came with the same Dana 44s