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Author Topic: "E" Gas Coupe Build  (Read 96917 times)
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Tman
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« Reply #30 on: August 31, 2011, 08:11:22 PM »

Pictures will be coming in a couple weeks. I will try and post them up.
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« Reply #31 on: August 31, 2011, 09:35:56 PM »

Trent, If you are talking about the Hondata car, I have seen it and its a very nice set up.  We wont able to do anything like that as the supports will be built into the seat (kind of like a DTM car).  But I am still trying to figure out how far it has to come pass the helmet.  The numbers I am getting are all over the board and even heard of one car at Speed Week that the inspectors wanted 2" pass the helmet, but later was overridden by somebody with common sense. I would like to get a definitive answer though.  Tony
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Bob Drury
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« Reply #32 on: August 31, 2011, 10:11:12 PM »

  Tony, it's in the current rule book:  at least to the front of the helmet.............   I wouldn't build them until I fit the driver in the seat.
  A typical helmet is fourteen inch's deep and ten inches wide, so the padding on the sides (1" SFI) can only be twelve inches inside to inside, and the side supports need to be a minimum of fourteen inches from the front side of the seat back..............  Bob
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Tman
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« Reply #33 on: August 31, 2011, 10:16:30 PM »

Trent, If you are talking about the Hondata car, I have seen it and its a very nice set up.  We wont able to do anything like that as the supports will be built into the seat (kind of like a DTM car).  But I am still trying to figure out how far it has to come pass the helmet.  The numbers I am getting are all over the board and even heard of one car at Speed Week that the inspectors wanted 2" pass the helmet, but later was overridden by somebody with common sense. I would like to get a definitive answer though.  Tony

Tony, no it is the car I mentioned a few posts back. I will post it in the thread talking about restraiants as well, great idea.

I have seen/heard a variety of numbers between a few of the cars I got to be around this year. And they varied from what Bob just posted above + AND -
« Last Edit: August 31, 2011, 10:18:46 PM by Tman » Logged
maguromic
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« Reply #34 on: August 31, 2011, 10:18:32 PM »

Thanks Bob,  I just couldn't find it in the book.  After reading the rules over a 100 times it all starts to look the same.  Now its clear!  cheers

Trent, Post a picture when you get a chance.  Tony
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« Reply #35 on: August 31, 2011, 10:21:21 PM »

And since you guys know I am new to this game, all I am doing is reporting my first hand observations as I saw things on the salt this year. A fresh perspective if you will.  I tend to be pretty objective AND think I have a small amount of common sense  grin  Although the subjects in Tonys avatars could ruin all of the latter!
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« Reply #36 on: August 31, 2011, 10:39:08 PM »

The rule as written says the lateral supports must come forward to the furtherest point of the helmet.. so with the helmet up against the head rest,,, the side supports must come as far forward as the front most part of the helmet,,, which would be the chin bar of the helmet,,

so if the helmet is 14 inches long, the the side bars would be ok at 14.01 inch long.  it does not say they side supports must be xxx longer.

Just my read on it !!!!

Charles
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« Reply #37 on: August 31, 2011, 11:07:20 PM »

Just reread it as well Charles, that is how I see it in the book. Ok, it is late here and later there and we are reading the rulebook for fun!?!?!?!??!?! I am so screwed, grin you can thank my dad the hot rodder and racer cheers
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« Reply #38 on: September 01, 2011, 12:12:18 AM »

  Tony, it's in the current rule book:  at least to the front of the helmet.............   I wouldn't build them until I fit the driver in the seat.
  A typical helmet is fourteen inch's deep and ten inches wide, so the padding on the sides (1" SFI) can only be twelve inches inside to inside, and the side supports need to be a minimum of fourteen inches from the front side of the seat back..............  Bob

Bob, we only get 1" of clearance on each side of the helmet? I thought it was 2" per side?
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« Reply #39 on: September 01, 2011, 01:22:54 AM »

  Tony, it's in the current rule book:  at least to the front of the helmet.............   I wouldn't build them until I fit the driver in the seat.
  A typical helmet is fourteen inch's deep and ten inches wide, so the padding on the sides (1" SFI) can only be twelve inches inside to inside, and the side supports need to be a minimum of fourteen inches from the front side of the seat back..............  Bob

Bob, we only get 1" of clearance on each side of the helmet? I thought it was 2" per side?

Yes, 4" max=2" per side max.
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« Reply #40 on: October 02, 2011, 07:00:46 PM »

Today we almost finished cleaning the interior of the sealer, this has to be the worst thing I have ever done (its like watching an ant walk up a drape)! But on a brighter note I started working on the variable steering system. This is something I always wanted to try and with the multipurpose use of this car it will fit perfectly on this project. Tony
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« Reply #41 on: October 18, 2011, 05:42:51 PM »

Finally I was able to get all the part numbers together for everyone that wanted the parts to build the electric dry sump for the rear/ trans.

1 Two stage pump (mine is a Johnson HTP unit with a .800 gear)
1 12 volt electric motor (mine is a Vickers made in Italy part # 9919 123 90023)
1 needle valve -McMaster-Carr # 4995K15
1 72 tooth pulley (style B) - Grainger # 2L534
1 22 tooth pulley (style A) - Grainger # 2L523
1 Gilmer style belt - Grainger # DHJ5  (better carry a few extra)
1 Custom bracket for floor mounting

Aside from the above parts, you will need the nozzles, lines, oil tank with the proper baffles and the breather for the tank.

Hope this helps.  Tony
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« Reply #42 on: October 18, 2011, 06:58:46 PM »

That's great-thanks Tony! cheers
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With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. However, this is not necessarily a good idea. It is hard to be sure where they are going to land, and it could be dangerous sitting under them as they fly overhead. -- RFC 1925

You can't make a race horse out of a pig. But if you work hard enough at it you can make a mighty fast pig. - Bob Akin

http://www.flatcadracing.org/
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« Reply #43 on: October 18, 2011, 10:00:23 PM »

Here's another option on a 12 electric motor. Primitive but it works. Back in the day before electric water pumps, a very resourceful and fast Studebaker owner used a Chevy 6 water pump with it's 2 outlets drive by a Ford 12 volt starter. You remember the ones with the long shafts with the spring on the end? He used a vee belt about 1/3 overdrive which was near stock for the Chevy 6 and only a size #8 or 10 wire and remote solenoid. Never was a problem, never thru a belt, and supplied all the cooling water needed for the Blown Chrysler.......Just  a thought.................Good Luck.

PS: my Tex trans came set up for a dry sump. Pump is between the main case and the rear case............... Looks great Tony
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« Reply #44 on: October 19, 2011, 10:33:52 AM »

JD, That's a great idea to use an old Ford starter motor. The biggest problem I had was to find a proper motor to turn the pump.  Tony
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