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Author Topic: "E" Gas Coupe Build  (Read 90968 times)
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DND
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« Reply #195 on: August 22, 2012, 12:21:05 AM »

Hi Tony

Ya this perfect fabbing deal is i life long sickness, and tough to shake off.

Don
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Saltfever
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« Reply #196 on: August 24, 2012, 02:39:41 AM »

Tony:  What are some benefits of the Winters 9" vs. a typical Ford 9" from other sources?  Also, is the Winters bearing pre-load different from a stock Ford? Does the dry sump allow you to use a different pre-load than stock?  Oh, so many questions . . . smiley
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« Reply #197 on: August 24, 2012, 07:35:42 AM »

Tony, first class work as usual!

Nice chatting with you the other day-I really appreciate the dry sump info! cheers
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With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. However, this is not necessarily a good idea. It is hard to be sure where they are going to land, and it could be dangerous sitting under them as they fly overhead. -- RFC 1925

You can't make a race horse out of a pig. But if you work hard enough at it you can make a mighty fast pig. - Bob Akin

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« Reply #198 on: August 24, 2012, 05:38:19 PM »

Saltfever, The reason we have a Winters housing is it was lying around the shop, other than being able to remove the axle tubes easily on the Winters housing there aren’t any difference between any other Ford 9” housings.  We will have two rear ends for the car; one is the 9” for Elmo and a 10 bolt for Bonneville.

Our preload is based on a few factors: we use a modified Timken bearing set that comes from one of the cup teams.  The Gleason gears we use are further modified by EMCO, which lets us use preloads to use the most efficient part of the tooth. Lastly the oil and the oil temperature play a roll also.

The dry sump lets us control the oil and temperature better.  It doesn’t make horsepower, but frees up robbed horsepower.  It’s the same principle as a dry sump system for the engine.

Another area you can make some good gains is by optimizing the drive shaft angles. You want the drive shaft angle to be at the optimal plane at speed rather than at static like how most cars are set up with.  Back in the day on our IMSA car at the 24hrs, our data showed the aero loads on the car at speed would take the drive shaft angle out of phase robbing us of speed, and that’s always stuck with me. 

Buddy, Its always fun talking to you. Tony
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Tman
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« Reply #199 on: August 24, 2012, 05:49:57 PM »

I think I asked you this before Tony...............what would it take to homebrew a drysump for the rearend?
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maguromic
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« Reply #200 on: August 24, 2012, 09:01:28 PM »

I think I asked you this before Tony...............what would it take to homebrew a drysump for the rearend?

Trent, Other than time these are the specs and parts list from one of my previous posts, the hardest part was the 12-volt motor.  I believe Vickers is now part of Eton, so you could probably cross reference the part number.


Specs
The pump is geared to turn 1250 rpm.
Timing belt ratio is 72:22.
Motor is rated 1/4 hp at 4100 rpm and 1/3 hp at 3600 rpm.
40% of the oil going back to the 9" is returned back to the tank (this is adjustable with the flow valve).
The spray nozzle is similar to an injection nozzle in that it sprays a fan pattern at the gears.

Parts List

1 Two stage pump (mine is a Johnson HTP unit with a .800 gear)
1 12 volt electric motor (mine is a Vickers made in Italy part # 9919 123 90023)
1 needle valve -McMaster-Carr # 4995K15
1 72 tooth pulley (style B) - Grainger # 2L534
1 22 tooth pulley (style A) - Grainger # 2L523
1 Gilmer style belt - Grainger # DHJ5  (better
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Saltfever
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« Reply #201 on: August 25, 2012, 08:06:56 PM »

Many thanks, Tony for continuing share your information. Great tip on driveshaft angle.  cheers
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maguromic
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« Reply #202 on: August 31, 2012, 06:09:55 PM »

These are the finished belt guards for the trans/rear end pumps. Even though it seems slow, its moving forward. Tony




« Last Edit: August 31, 2012, 06:11:26 PM by maguromic » Logged

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DND
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« Reply #203 on: August 31, 2012, 07:13:14 PM »

Looking pretty ' SANO ' there dude, a little ano and ready to fly, oops i guess i should say go fast.

Don
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Saltfever
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« Reply #204 on: September 01, 2012, 01:19:51 AM »

How are these shielded from the salt? Are they inside the car?
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38flattie
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« Reply #205 on: September 01, 2012, 09:52:19 AM »

I think I asked you this before Tony...............what would it take to homebrew a drysump for the rearend?

Trent, Other than time these are the specs and parts list from one of my previous posts, the hardest part was the 12-volt motor.  I believe Vickers is now part of Eton, so you could probably cross reference the part number.


Specs
The pump is geared to turn 1250 rpm.
Timing belt ratio is 72:22.
Motor is rated 1/4 hp at 4100 rpm and 1/3 hp at 3600 rpm.
40% of the oil going back to the 9" is returned back to the tank (this is adjustable with the flow valve).
The spray nozzle is similar to an injection nozzle in that it sprays a fan pattern at the gears.

Parts List

1 Two stage pump (mine is a Johnson HTP unit with a .800 gear)
1 12 volt electric motor (mine is a Vickers made in Italy part # 9919 123 90023)
1 needle valve -McMaster-Carr # 4995K15
1 72 tooth pulley (style B) - Grainger # 2L534
1 22 tooth pulley (style A) - Grainger # 2L523
1 Gilmer style belt - Grainger # DHJ5  (better


Tony, where can I get the spray nozzles from?

Thanks!
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With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. However, this is not necessarily a good idea. It is hard to be sure where they are going to land, and it could be dangerous sitting under them as they fly overhead. -- RFC 1925

You can't make a race horse out of a pig. But if you work hard enough at it you can make a mighty fast pig. - Bob Akin

http://www.flatcadracing.org/
maguromic
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« Reply #206 on: September 01, 2012, 10:57:29 AM »

How are these shielded from the salt? Are they inside the car?

They sit inside the car.

Buddy, I made mine, they are a copy of a Hilborn injector but bigger.  Just make sure you have the 45 degree cut to get the oil to fan out. Also the nozzle placement is crucial.   Tony
« Last Edit: September 01, 2012, 11:21:24 AM by maguromic » Logged

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Tman
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« Reply #207 on: September 01, 2012, 12:03:20 PM »

Wonder if a spare fire system nozzle would work? Hmmmm
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Interested Observer
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« Reply #208 on: September 01, 2012, 12:29:09 PM »

It might be a lot easier, cheaper, and more predictable to buy a nozzle than to make one--check out www.teejet.com and/or local ag supply house.
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maguromic
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« Reply #209 on: September 01, 2012, 02:53:25 PM »

It might be a lot easier, cheaper, and more predictable to buy a nozzle than to make one--check out www.teejet.com and/or local ag supply house.

I looked at the ag stuff they are nice, but the problem with them is the "banding style spray nozzles" I need were too big. The shortest ones available are 4"  and I just don't have that kind of space to work with especially on the transmission.  Tony
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