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Author Topic: The Green Fiend 100cc A/G and A/F 2019 build  (Read 2718 times)
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wobblywalrus
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« Reply #30 on: February 01, 2019, 11:08:43 AM »

Is there a wind tunnel near you?  This testing can be a big help.
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skidpupRandD
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« Reply #31 on: February 02, 2019, 12:08:03 PM »

Is there a wind tunnel near you?  This testing can be a big help.
Im in Southern California so im sure there is one, but Im not sure I could fund going out there.
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Harold Bettes
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« Reply #32 on: February 03, 2019, 12:51:39 AM »

See if you can get in touch with Joe Katz at the University of San Diego Mechanical Engineering Department. He is a gearhead and plenty savvy on aerodynamics as well. Bet he could give you some guidance that would be worth a phone call. Then maybe you could do lunch,too. A guy has to eat!

There are also guys at Caltech in Pasadena.

Good Luck.
Regards,
HB2 smiley
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skidpupRandD
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« Reply #33 on: February 03, 2019, 01:10:20 AM »

See if you can get in touch with Joe Katz at the University of San Diego Mechanical Engineering Department. He is a gearhead and plenty savvy on aerodynamics as well. Bet he could give you some guidance that would be worth a phone call. Then maybe you could do lunch,too. A guy has to eat!

There are also guys at Caltech in Pasadena.

Good Luck.
Regards,
HB2 smiley
Thank you! 
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Koncretekid
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« Reply #34 on: February 03, 2019, 10:00:26 AM »

Mikey,
Here is a handlebar suggestion.  It uses standard clip-on clamps with cutoff standard handlebars.  It's comfortable and fully adjustable.  The only thing you should do if you choose this way is to "stake" the bars  when they feel best by drilling and tapping machine screws thru the clamps into the bars to prevent them from rotating downward under pressure from your arms.
Tom


* TR25 top view handlebars.jpg (251.35 KB, 1280x853 - viewed 66 times.)
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We get too soon oldt, and too late schmart!
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skidpupRandD
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« Reply #35 on: February 03, 2019, 04:50:12 PM »

Mikey,
Here is a handlebar suggestion.  It uses standard clip-on clamps with cutoff standard handlebars.  It's comfortable and fully adjustable.  The only thing you should do if you choose this way is to "stake" the bars  when they feel best by drilling and tapping machine screws thru the clamps into the bars to prevent them from rotating downward under pressure from your arms.
Tom
that is how my bars are currently positioned, only lower than the bottom triple tree.


* 44519447_2256394127721490_7362287103188664320_n.jpg (108.72 KB, 800x640 - viewed 62 times.)
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Koncretekid
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« Reply #36 on: February 03, 2019, 05:58:01 PM »

You can do that in "A" Class.  My little Triumph is an "M" class, so handlebars and seat must be above the "top of the rear tire" at SCTA events.  I'm not sure how they measure that at the front of the bike, but I think it best to keep them above the top of the front tire as well.

At BMST, the rule states above the top of the rims, so is a little more lenient.
« Last Edit: February 03, 2019, 06:00:39 PM by Koncretekid » Logged

We get too soon oldt, and too late schmart!
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skidpupRandD
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« Reply #37 on: February 03, 2019, 11:39:17 PM »

You can do that in "A" Class.  My little Triumph is an "M" class, so handlebars and seat must be above the "top of the rear tire" at SCTA events.  I'm not sure how they measure that at the front of the bike, but I think it best to keep them above the top of the front tire as well.

At BMST, the rule states above the top of the rims, so is a little more lenient.

Oh ok, building an rz350 too, will be an M bike, I will keep that in mind. Thank you.
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