MS LIBERTY a Wild Weasel's belly tank

[SPARKY]

drivers side

Special thanks to the Midas Muffler shop on Bell Road & just East of 42nd st in Phoenix the Mgr. has run a turbo Camaro.  He flanged their thick wall 2.5" exhaust tubing to fit the 2.5" weld ell that I beveled the ID to fit the 2.625 Id dom that the last step of my log manifold. from there we will go to section of 2.25 tubing that we have flared to to match the 2.5 tubing so that we can weld them.  I will order some 2.25 v band clamps so that we can drop out this section to be able to drop the turbo or manifold separately.

[SPARKY]

pass side

[SPARKY]

HEAT CONCERNS

this is how close to the rear end the turbos are.  I am going to have to bring oil to the turbos, and have a scavenge bay of the dry sump pump set aside for that.

 I am thinking of also pressure feeding the pinion brg and pluming a return from the back of the dif cover.  I already run my rear axle in motor oil so that would not be a change.
Ideas, thoughts or comments welcome

[Captthundarr]

Interesting, I have never seen anyone try to combine a turbo with a diff. this should be a good one to follow.

[SPARKY]

Ct  I am trying to to KEEP from joining them together with heat--- hence the use of oil to try to take the heat away---lol

[Frankie7799]

We might have to wind up wrapping the diff or the turbos in some kind of thermal blanket to help keep the diff cool.

[Captthundarr]

Hard to tell from the pic if there is room, but I would wrap both, but thats me, I'm usually set on overkill as is.

[SPARKY]

no clearance is absolutely the issue

Update: 
Talked to my buddy Ratcliff the rear end guy---he suggested that I spray the top of the ring gear on the back side  to not interfere  with the normal pumping action of the ring gear.  Thought that it would be good to circulate the oil to keep it cooler should not run over160-175F max.

[JimL]

You could run the Tilton elec gear oil pump.  I did a little street rod, a few years back, that I ring pumped through a large tube trans cooler.  That was enough to let me run 40w on the street, which really helps when your hotrod only has 1600cc!  It looks like that little pump is cheaper than a couple rolls of heat wrap...which is a real testament to overpricing of simple stuff, in my opinion.

The best heat proofing you could do, perhaps, would be to strip the catalytic converter/exhaust pipe shields out of a late model small front-wheel-drive car.  These are running down the center tunnel.  They use a dimpled aluminum that is so thin (but stiff enough due to dimplng) that it moves the heat very fast over a lot of distance.  This allows the very hot cats to live very close to the floor, without problems for the life of the car.  They can even run the exhaust pipe through a relief in the fuel tank without driving tank into boil.  Float the shields between the components, then lots of bolts where you feel like dumping the calories...through aluminum washers.  The shapes you need are already there.

Thin aluminum and lots of area is why the fish cooks slow on the BBQ when wrapped in too big a fold of aluminum foil.  If you leave part of the foil hanging out in cool air, it wont cook at all!  Found out the hard way when I thought I'd be clever and make myself a big handle that wasnt in the heat....the evening got dark long before the salmon did.  Add the mosquitos, and dinner in the tent was potato chips, green beans, and bottled water.....but I woke up in the night understanding why the heat shields got so long and thin.

Regards, JimL

[SPARKY]

ooooh  I like stuff from the wrecking yard---great suggestion

[tauruck]

Jim's right. I was working under the wife's car and saw that dimpled Ally heat shield running the length of the tunnel. The wrecking yards must be full of that stuff, undamaged and ripe for the picking. 

[Dr Goggles]

You could run the Tilton elec gear oil pump.  I did a little street rod, a few years back, that I ring pumped through a large tube trans cooler.  That was enough to let me run 40w on the street, which really helps when your hotrod only has 1600cc!  It looks like that little pump is cheaper than a couple rolls of heat wrap...which is a real testament to overpricing of simple stuff, in my opinion.

The best heat proofing you could do, perhaps, would be to strip the catalytic converter/exhaust pipe shields out of a late model small front-wheel-drive car.  These are running down the center tunnel.  They use a dimpled aluminum that is so thin (but stiff enough due to dimplng) that it moves the heat very fast over a lot of distance.  This allows the very hot cats to live very close to the floor, without problems for the life of the car.  They can even run the exhaust pipe through a relief in the fuel tank without driving tank into boil.  Float the shields between the components, then lots of bolts where you feel like dumping the calories...through aluminum washers.  The shapes you need are already there.

Thin aluminum and lots of area is why the fish cooks slow on the BBQ when wrapped in too big a fold of aluminum foil.  If you leave part of the foil hanging out in cool air, it wont cook at all!  Found out the hard way when I thought I'd be clever and make myself a big handle that wasnt in the heat....the evening got dark long before the salmon did.  Add the mosquitos, and dinner in the tent was potato chips, green beans, and bottled water.....but I woke up in the night understanding why the heat shields got so long and thin.

Regards, JimL

I got out of the car and picked up a piece of that quilted stuff a while back, she laughed at me, it's good stuff....it works really really well. We had a shield under our fuel tank where the collectors merged I sandwiched some cement sheet between two pieces of polished 1.6mm Al. The only query I have is we are dealing with intense heat for a short period . Is the heat soak capability as important as radiant shielding?

Love your posts Jim, read them all, gets me thinkin...... no, not having salmon tonight, I prefer it charred anyway.....

[SPARKY]

I would bet that heat shield has to have some air flow or heat sinks as Jim L suggested.  I was planning on isolating the exh. tubing inside of a "Duct" from the outside skin to the turbo area and some reverse scoops on the bottom of the car for the heated air to rejoin it's brothers and sisters in the low pressure area under the car.  I have burned the plug wires off Ratical  I would just as soon not do it on the Weasel.

[JimL]

Use the curves to cup around the turbos.  You want the aluminum to get HOT so it will move heat faster to a cooler spot.  It will re-radiate much less than it carries away.  Those shields have very little clearance to the floor tunnel, but they do the job.  If you try to just "make a spot shield" it does nothing.  Send that heat for a long hike.

Second law of thermodynamics....entropy at work!

[Rex Schimmer]

Sparky,
In the picture of the "clearance" between the dif and the turbo is the hot side of the turbo, and it looks like it is I don't think you can protect the dif no matter what you use for shielding. The turbine side will be at 1500 deg F+ at full boost and the dominate method of heat transfer at that temp is radiant heat transfer, which is based upon the temp dif between the hot piece, the turbo housing, and the mass pf the dif which at a substantially lower temp will be the heat sink for the hot side of the turbo.  When we first ran a turbo Chev V6 in a Lola T600 the turbo was 15-18 inches from the floor of the engine compartment, which was the top of the ground effect tunnels and they were on fire within 2 laps at Willow Springs. At the end of the 5 mile at Bonneville your diff will be full of coal and the seals will be carbon. We covered the tops of the tunnels with corrugated polished stainless sheet with a ceramic cloth and also had special covers made for the hot side of the turbos, this allowed us to actually run the car but everything that was in the line of sight of the turbo wanted to be shielded or it would burn.

Rex