Author Topic: BSA B50 -500 APG Build  (Read 462848 times)

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Offline saltwheels262

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Re: BSA B50 -500 APG Build
« Reply #90 on: July 03, 2011, 09:42:02 PM »

 I actually had to put the clevises in the mill


Only 10 more days.



1- i was going to suggest heim joints.

2- guessing that we will meet at loring.

franey
# 262
bub '07 - 140.293 a/pg   120" crate street mill  
bub '10 - 158.100  sweetooth gear
lta  7/11 -163.389  7/17/11; 3 run avg.-162.450
ohio -    - 185.076 w/#684      
lta 8/14  - 169.xxx. w/sw2           
'16 -- 0 runs ; 0 events

" it's not as easy as it looks. "
                            - franey  8/2007

Offline Koncretekid

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Re: BSA B50 -500 APG Build
« Reply #91 on: July 04, 2011, 06:18:07 AM »


1- i was going to suggest heim joints.

2- guessing that we will meet at loring.

franey
# 262
[/quote]

I've used small heim joints before, but I find they protrude outside the frame more than these small clevis joints from an old Honda.  Furthermore, the rods have right-hand threads on one end, and left-hand threads on the other. So adjusting is easier.

I look forward to meeting you at Loring.

Tom
We get too soon oldt, and too late schmart!
Life's uncertain - eat dessert first!

Offline Koncretekid

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Re: BSA B50 -500 APG Build
« Reply #92 on: July 04, 2011, 06:33:29 AM »
Painting 101!!
[/b]

Painting is not what it used to be.  First off, try and buy an economical easy-to-use primer, for example.  Canada has succumbed to the forces of the Universe and banned the use of high VOC's.  So they have removed all the lacquer based paints, as we know them. "Just use these aerosol cans of metal etch primer" said one.  So I did, and after $30 worth I had my frame done, and I wasn't half finished.  So I went looking and  I found one supplier with a quart of old stock lacquer based primer, but he only had thinner in 5 gallon containers.  But another supplier had a gallon of thinner.  Bingo!--or so I thought.  But when I mixed the two, I got grey stuff with white flecks.  So most of my primered items had white specs, sort of like that rock guard paint you use in trunks.  I then got some strainers and got rid of the white specs for the rest of the items-- how important could those white specs be?

Then there's the finish paint.  You can buy Rustoleum mineral spirit based paints for $11 a qt. on sale, but how impervious are they to gas and oil?  So I bit the bullet and went back to my supplier.  Each quart of color cost $50, plus a gallon of  thinner for another $50, and some hardener for $20, and a new paint gun for $50, and a filter -regulator, and $250 later, I was ready to paint.

Now if you're going to do a professional job, there are some other requirements.  You will need a clean, well ventilated work space, a professional paint gun, a way of supporting your work,  preferably  a ventilated suit with a separate breathing air supply, and of course, a helper who perhaps might actually know how to paint.  I had none of the above.  And you will have to watch out for dust in the air, things to trip over, wind, insects, and Murphy's Laws.  I had all of these things nicely covered.

But to make a long story short, I managed, in spite of the odds.  Now I take great pride in being a Jack of All Trades, and a Master of None.  So I may have a few runs, a few spots that didn't quite get good coverage,  and a little orange peel finish.  But I've got a shiny black frame and some yellow parts to dress it up.
 
   I also have floors, lawn furniture, skis, canoe, an old Ossa, and many other items that were not supposed to black and yellow dotted with both. I rationalize this by telling my wife that these items needed to be painted anyway, so it's OK, although I'm not really sure about the Ossa. And my black fenders were not quite far enough away, so now they have little flecks of yellow on them - - look sort of like gold flecks. You couldn't have gotten this effect by design, so maybe it's OK, too.  And the big bonus is the big deer fly that's stuck to the front of the headstock.  It's sort of reminds me of the fly that got cast into the Ducati gas tank of Mike Hailwood's bike.   That didn't slow him down, did it?  So maybe  it's my good luck charm!

Tom Borcherdt
« Last Edit: July 04, 2011, 06:35:32 AM by Koncretekid »
We get too soon oldt, and too late schmart!
Life's uncertain - eat dessert first!

Offline Koncretekid

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Re: BSA B50 -500 APG Build
« Reply #93 on: July 04, 2011, 06:44:35 AM »
I wrote the previous text in MS Word, but the photos didn't transfer, so here they are:
We get too soon oldt, and too late schmart!
Life's uncertain - eat dessert first!

Offline Koncretekid

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Re: BSA B50 -500 APG Build
« Reply #94 on: July 04, 2011, 06:50:21 AM »
Oil tank, speckled fender, and fly  on the headstock:
We get too soon oldt, and too late schmart!
Life's uncertain - eat dessert first!

Offline Koncretekid

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Re: BSA B50 -500 APG Build
« Reply #95 on: July 05, 2011, 06:35:45 AM »
Installation of headstock bearings

The first photo shows the bushings at the left that I used during the entire build to keep the real bearings (tapered roller bearings) clean.

The bearings I'm using for the headstock are not actually motorcycle headstock bearings.  Instead, I chose trailer wheel bearings, 1" ID by 1.979" OD, mainly because they were only $12.95 at Princess Auto.  The bonus is that the ID is 1", so by using 1" cold rolled round steel for the bushing, no machining is required for the ID.  However, there were no seals.  My bearing supplier said they weren't available, but I had a set of All Balls Racing bearings for a Honda, and they had a seal.  I called the seal manufacturer, but they said I would have to buy them from one of their customers, and suggested All Balls.  Of course, when I called All Balls Racing, it was tough to get to talk to someone who actually knew what I wanted, but after a few tries, I got a couple of seals, actually for a Honda, that fit perfectly onto the outer cup of the tapered roller bearings.

The inner steel bushings are shown below pressed into the triple clamps as well as into the bearings (slip fit in bearings, press fit in triple clamps).  The outer bearing, or "cup" gets pressed into the headstock, which is bored out about .002" smaller than the OD of the cup.  This is tight, tighter than it needs to be, so I took no chances and made a bearing driver that fit the ID of the cup, and had a shoulder to drive the cup below the surface of the headstock to allow the seal to enter the headstock.  Unfortunately, the cup went down flush with the bottom of the recess, and when I put the inner bearing ("cone") in place, the bearing cage, which apparently was slightly proud of the bearing, hit the bottom flange, and would not rotate. So luckily, I had pre-drilled two 3/8" holes thru the each of the flanges at the outer edges which allowed me to drive the cup back out. I then made a couple of aluminum shims that were just under the OD of the cup, and had an ID larger than the bearing cage. These were only about .015" thick, hence the apparent warping.  They are shown next to the bearing driver.  They did the trick and I was able to re-press the cups back in properly.  You can see the seal just under the triple clamp in the last photo, which should keep out the salt and dirt.

Sorry to bore you with the details, but it's all part of the build, and if you're building one of these, these are important details. If anyone wants a drawing showing the above details, I will gladly email you one, or post it here if I can.

Tom
We get too soon oldt, and too late schmart!
Life's uncertain - eat dessert first!

Offline RidgeRunner

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Re: BSA B50 -500 APG Build
« Reply #96 on: July 05, 2011, 09:19:30 AM »
Very interesting and far from boring.  Looking forward to meeting you and seeing the bike live and up close at Loring.

Ed

Offline Beairsto Racing

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Re: BSA B50 -500 APG Build
« Reply #97 on: July 05, 2011, 01:15:22 PM »
Tom,

Agreed..far from boring! I really enjoy your build thread, lots of detail. You have many skills and I appreciate you taking the time to share your project. :cheers:
2 Club since '02
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Offline saltwheels262

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Re: BSA B50 -500 APG Build
« Reply #98 on: July 05, 2011, 05:50:24 PM »
usually a bearing supply house will also carry seals.

they will know what you need and a good price at that.

eg : bearings incorporated or bearing services.

saltwheels
bub '07 - 140.293 a/pg   120" crate street mill  
bub '10 - 158.100  sweetooth gear
lta  7/11 -163.389  7/17/11; 3 run avg.-162.450
ohio -    - 185.076 w/#684      
lta 8/14  - 169.xxx. w/sw2           
'16 -- 0 runs ; 0 events

" it's not as easy as it looks. "
                            - franey  8/2007

Offline Freud

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Re: BSA B50 -500 APG Build
« Reply #99 on: July 06, 2011, 12:03:49 AM »
Koncretekid.......I like the way you presented those images.

FREUD
Since '63

Offline wobblywalrus

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Re: BSA B50 -500 APG Build
« Reply #100 on: July 06, 2011, 01:20:24 AM »
Have good luck at Loring, Tom, and tell us how you do.  That is a nice looking bike and it should go fast.  Today I saw a picture of a new BSA made in Melbourne, AUS.  I will post details when I find some.   

Offline Koncretekid

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Re: BSA B50 -500 APG Build
« Reply #101 on: July 06, 2011, 07:25:42 AM »
First let me thank Saltwheels for pointing out the problem with using clevis joints for shifting linkage.  I had to do a lot of massaging to get the required travel in the linkage to properly shift the tranny.  Old Brit bikes require a long throw, and I had to cut and lengthen one arm and shorten another.  Also, about your suggestion that bearing supply houses SHOULD be experts on seals and should be able to supply them.  Well the only one we have here in Nova Scotia is Candadian Bearings, and when I inquired about seals for tapered roller bearings, they went tharn!  I even gave them the name of the manufacturer and the part number.  They told me no seals were available for tapered bearings!  So I called the manufacturer directly, who referred me to All Balls, and I eventually got what I wanted for about $3.00.

Here's yesterday's progress.  Another busy day today.
We get too soon oldt, and too late schmart!
Life's uncertain - eat dessert first!

Offline saltwheels262

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Re: BSA B50 -500 APG Build
« Reply #102 on: July 06, 2011, 07:02:10 PM »
k kid,

well, thank you .

yes, they should know. it shouldn't matter if its a tapered bearing,
 ball bearing or what not. the id ,the od and the depth (thickness)
are the basic criteria.

anyway, see you in a 8-9days.

suitcase
bub '07 - 140.293 a/pg   120" crate street mill  
bub '10 - 158.100  sweetooth gear
lta  7/11 -163.389  7/17/11; 3 run avg.-162.450
ohio -    - 185.076 w/#684      
lta 8/14  - 169.xxx. w/sw2           
'16 -- 0 runs ; 0 events

" it's not as easy as it looks. "
                            - franey  8/2007

Offline coloradodave

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Re: BSA B50 -500 APG Build
« Reply #103 on: July 06, 2011, 08:07:49 PM »
That's what happens when you try and replace real trained parts staff with a gd computer!
If it's not on the monitor it must not be available right?
No regrets

Offline Koncretekid

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Re: BSA B50 -500 APG Build
« Reply #104 on: July 08, 2011, 07:51:51 PM »
Last minute decision: get the piston ceramic coated after reading other threads on this forum.  Last year after 7 runs I tore the motor down to find that the pin was partially seized in the piston.  This year I'm running higher compression, larger intake valve and port, larger carburetor, and shorter (tuned) exhaust.  So I'm being a little cautious, especially since I'll be running next weekend at Loring which is near sea level so apparent compression ratio and fuel mixture should result in more horsepower.  It would be such a shame to blow it up before I even get to Bonneville.

The good news is that I can change out the top end in a couple of hours (actually 45 minutes to remove the head, rocker box, and piston) without having to pull the motor.

I found a coater in the Province (High Tech Coatings near Halifax) and sent the piston on Wednesday.  The owner called me today with the finished product, so I made the 6 hour round trip to retrieve the piston, while my wife mowed the lawn (oh oh!)

Also shown is photo of the pilot's view.
We get too soon oldt, and too late schmart!
Life's uncertain - eat dessert first!