BSA B50 -500 APG Build

[Koncretekid]

The lower motor mounting boss on the motor was worn lopsided, so I decided to try to re-spotface it in the mill.  Luckily it's not a Harley motor.  It weighs about 85 lbs, so it can be manhandled into place.  I then replaced the motor in the frame using all the original mounting lugs.  It didn't go in easily, as I suppose replacing the frame rails allowed the crossmembers to move slightly.  I will either have to make new motor mount places or drill the holes slightly oversize.

Once in place, I was able to use my long 3/8" drill bit to drill thru the frame from the other side, thru the lower motor mount boss, and thru the frame rail.  It came thru very close to the center of the tube.  I then opened it up to 5/8" with step drill and twist drills (the twist drills do not do well when trying to drill Chrome Moly thin wall tubing, but my drill was too long to fit between the frame rails).  Ferrule is now in place and ready to be welded.  Big sigh of relief that everything fits!
Tom

[tauruck]

Nicely done. It's coming along great.

[Koncretekid]

Finished rear subframe showing chainguard mounting and new seat hoop as well as gas tank mounting.  Rear fender is now an old Preston Petty plastic one weighing almost nothing compared to the Honda one that I had (which was broken in three places due to vibration).  Chainguard mounting tab now spans between two tubes to spread any concentrated loads.  Seat hoop is now a separate hoop which will get tied to the subframe with gussets.  Last two photos show comparison of the old frame with the new.  Now it's time to make a decision on the welding.  Because I have to go to the dentist tomorrow, probably for another root canal, I just might reward myself by buying that TIG welder!

[wobblywalrus]

Looks good, Tom!

[Koncretekid]

Tig welder bought - - ThermalArc 95S.  I spent yesterday and part of today welding a few joints for practice.  Following are a few samples.   I tried the BFH trick on the one that's bent with no apparent damage to the weld.  How am I doing?
Tom

[Jon]

Looking pretty good to me Tom, I'm only self taught though.

Cheers
jon

[Peter Jack]

I'd probably ride your bike with those welds Tom but there is room for improvement. You look to be using just a touch too much heat and a touch too little gas. At the same time I really like how both edges of your weld are washing into the main material. A little more filler metal would probably help as well. As you finish the weld back off the pedal slowly and continue to add filler metal as required. That should eliminate the pit at the end of the weld.

As for your choice of machine, Thermal Arc is a good choice. I wouldn't have gone the DC inverter route simply because you can't weld aluminum and similar alloys. I found a used Miller Synchrowave 180 for a friend of mine the other day just so he wasn't limited to only some processes. Aluminum welding is a very handy ability to have. Once you can weld steel successfully you'd have no trouble with aluminum. I'd rather have a smaller machine that can do all processes and I only have to go find someone for heavier materials than be limited to only ferrous welding. JMHO 

Have fun, you're looking good!

Pete

[Koncretekid]

Jon,
So as a self taught, are you doing all your own welds on your streamliner?

Pete,
Thanks for the tips.  I don't have a pedal (bottom of the line machine) so I can't back off at the end.  Is there any other way?  I will try less heat and more filler tomorrow.  This low end machine is lift-off-to-start the arc, and it seems to stick quite often.  Probably with more practice, I'll be able to resolve that.  I would certainly rather have had a higher end machine, but nothing available at the right price, at least not here in N.S.  I put off the purchase for quite a while, but just decided I wanted to try Tig and this was at least on sale.
Tom

[Peter Jack]

You've created yourself a challenge but knowing now that you're operating without a pedal you're doing just fine. Try cutting the the amperage back a little and slow down travel a little. At the end you might try adding a little extra filler to cool the puddle and move the tungsten back quickly and lift. The sticking is likely just hand skill and it WILL improve. Every time you stick go back to the grinder and resharpen the tungsten. I sharpen the tungsten at both ends when I'm welding steel so I don't have to sharpen as often. Keep practicing. You're definitely on the right track. As long as you continue to carefully criticize your own work you'll do just fine. Don't be afraid to weld your own frame.

Pete

P.S. - Start saving your pennies, or nickels now pennies are on their way out, so that at some point you can get a machine that can do dc and ac welding with high frequency and pedal control. Your quality will improve appreciably and your versatility will expand.

P.J.

[Rex Schimmer]

Tom,
Looking pretty good for a first try! As Pete said, a little less amperage and a bit slower will help. Sometimes when the amperage is high and not adjustable feeding rod and going fast is the only way to avoid burn through. Also be sure to grind all of the mill scale off of both pieces that you are welding and then a wipe with a rag with acetone or lacquer thinner to degrease and you have a good start. I try to use .049 ES70-2 wire for everything and I only use 1/16 (.0625) if I have a little "gaposis" to heal but I try to avoid that  by getting all of the joints be a good fit. My first TIG was a Miller 140 with scratch start and I built several gages using it with good success. One thing to start with right away is to learn to not keep the tungsten to close to the puddle, I have this as a bad habit and I spend a lot of time grinding tungsten. Grind the tungsten so that the grind marks run the long way on the tungsten and practice, practice, practice!!!!

Keep at it and soon you will only want to weld anything with TIG, then is the time to start looking for a larger unit with water cooled torch and variable power.

Rex

[Jon]

Hi Tom
I am welding my own bike.
I wouldn't hesitate to ride a bike with the welds you have show.
You have nice penetration on both pieces and no undercutting, that to me indicates a functionally decent weld.

Like you I don't have a pedal, being going to get one.
Not having one makes positional welding a bit more difficult.
I do have a ramp down timer which makes the end of the weld a bit easier, does yours have that function?

Cheers
jon

[Koncretekid]

WELDING CLUSTER F**K!

I've been quite frustrated trying to apply what I've learned about TIG welding to my actual frame.  So after $500 for the welder, $400 for a new 4-sensor helmet to avoid arc flashes, $225 for Argon, and about $60 worth of supplies, I'm no further ahead of having someone else weld this for me.  Without a foot pedal to control amperage, this is presenting quite a challenge for the amateur welder.

I'm not too proud of what I've done here but might as well say it like it is, "Misery loves company."

Tom

[38flattie]

Tom, the bike is coming along nicely!

I agree that the foot pedal will really make you're life easier, and your welding even better. Keep up the good work!

[Koncretekid]

I have completed the rebuilding of my frame.  I had some very frustrating moments and I finally started sharing photos of my welds with Peter Jack who got me thru my difficulties.  In fact, I called him a few nights ago after trying to fix up one of my "worser" welds, and at the end of the conversation I happened to ask him if the fact that my shop was only 45* F would be causing my problems.  His answer was a definite YES and he suggested I try some pre-heat.  So after regrinding out that problem weld for the fourth time, I put a little heat on it from my propane torch, and was amazed at what I saw.  Beads of water materialized out of nowhere and it took a couple of minutes before the weld and surrounding tubes dried out.  I guess I had been trying to weld underwater, which no doubt contributed to the bubbling of the weld puddle which caused my frustration.  Thank you Peter, and for all of the encouraging advice I got from the members of this forum!

The following photos show the front fairing bolted on along with some of my welds.  I only had to change one of the rear fairing mounts to have everything fasten back together.  I also had to shorten my rear wheel spacers .040" per side because the frame shrank that much at the rear.

The second and third photos show a comparison of my LSR frame next to my American Eagle 250 for scale.  The seat and the headstock are a bit lower.

[tauruck]

That's so cool. Another addict has joined. Welding is great fun but it's like golf for most of us in the beginning. Somedays it's great and the next it's rough. As long as the welds are strong looks will come later. I'm happy for you and the frame is looking nice.