Hayabusa fuel system.

[Chris Horoho]

we are running the 034 Motorsports

If I am not mistaken the 034MS and 044 is the same pump.


BTW:

There is nothing wrong with the fuel setup you have however you can also come out of the fuel filter to the bottom rail (in), bottom rail (out) to the top rail (in) and then go top rail (out) to a single in regulator and back to the tank. This will eliminate the Y block and the need for a multi input regulator.

Not knocking....just different.

~JH

the 034 motorsports is a fuel injector controller for the secondaries not a pump

[DanBadger]

we are running the 034 Motorsports

If I am not mistaken the 034MS and 044 is the same pump.


BTW:

There is nothing wrong with the fuel setup you have however you can also come out of the fuel filter to the bottom rail (in), bottom rail (out) to the top rail (in) and then go top rail (out) to a single in regulator and back to the tank. This will eliminate the Y block and the need for a multi input regulator.

Not knocking....just different.

~JH

The reason I decided to run the  y-block and -6 is that the way it is set up, there will always be an adequate flow of fuel to all points, as well as keeping fuel restriction down so that fuel pressure at the injectors will remain more consistent.  The primary injectors have 1/4NPT to -6M fittings threaded in to fuel rail adapters, the same way the original poster is going to plumb his system. That is quite a restriction to throw that kind of volume through.  The other reason I plumbed each rail individually was to keep up the ability to grow and change as the bike grows without rebuilding the entire fuel system.  The pump, seen in the first photo, is the Bosch 044.  We had a Walbro 255 on the bike previously, and upgraded to the 044 as the power level is stepping up from 327hp to about 500. 

As you plumb, bear in mind that you want to keep your suction side as short as possible, and downhill. 

[Jonny Hotnuts]

The reason I decided to run the  y-block and -6 is that the way it is set up, there will always be an adequate flow of fuel to all points, as well as keeping fuel restriction down so that fuel pressure at the injectors will remain more consistent.  The primary injectors have 1/4NPT to -6M fittings threaded in to fuel rail adapters, the same way the original poster is going to plumb his system. That is quite a restriction to throw that kind of volume through.  The other reason I plumbed each rail individually was to keep up the ability to grow and change as the bike grows without rebuilding the entire fuel system.  The pump, seen in the first photo, is the Bosch 044.  We had a Walbro 255 on the bike previously, and upgraded to the 044 as the power level is stepping up from 327hp to about 500. 

I dont have a problem with that, I thought the same thing but was assured that because it is regulated post rails, if the fuel pump has the flow LPH rate and within HP ability there would not be a different pressure between the primary and secondary fuel rails at WOT. This is taking into consideration that billet fuel rails are used over the smallish OEM on the primary.

I am data logging off the primary rail AND the regulator, dynoed over 5





The 'out one and in the other' setup is how the 650-700+HP RCC Super Ultra kits are run (and all RCC turbo kits), and my source for turbo R&D including my suggested method. Again, nothing wrong with your method.

~JH

[bharmon77]

I would like to thank everyone for the reply, I have shortened the -8 line from the tank to the primary filter (100 micron steel mesh) and continued the -8 to a Bosch 044 pump with -6 out to the fuel shut off, -6 to an Aeromotive A1000 pressure regulator and -6 to a "Y" block with two -6 lines to the fuel rail. This is a single fuel rail set up with 4 stock injectors. Maybe I need a finer filter ahead of the "Y" block?

BHarmon7077

[Jonny Hotnuts]

How is your tank return line run?

[bharmon77]

I have not run the lines yet but the return is a -6 from the regulator back to the top of the tank. Am I making a big basic mistake, I thought that the pressure regulator fed the fuel rail but the diagram posted by Dan shows the regulator inlet down stream from the fuel rail working as a back pressure device. I guess that explains why the regulator has two inlets. I am feeling realy stupid about now. HELP!

[RansomT]

I have not run the lines yet but the return is a -6 from the regulator back to the top of the tank. Am I making a big basic mistake, I thought that the pressure regulator fed the fuel rail but the diagram posted by Dan shows the regulator inlet down stream from the fuel rail working as a back pressure device. I guess that explains why the regulator has two inlets. I am feeling realy stupid about now. HELP!

On a flow through system, Everything inbetween the pump and regulator is pressure, before the pump is suction, after the regulator (return line) is low pressure.  A Dead Head system, everything after the regulator, including the fuel rails, is also pressure. Return line likewise is low pressure.

I run a flow through on my dry nitrous Busa using -6 lines.  On my blown Taurus SHO(well over 500 wHp), I run a modified dead head system.  The 2 fuel rails have a "flow between" that equalizes the pressures and negates the fuel pressure pluses.  On the SHO, I use -8 lines on the supply side, -6 on the rails, and -6 on the return.  I do get pressure creep at idle and off idle.  However, through a lot of thought, I figured a way to reduce voltage to the pump during engine vacuum which took care of most of the pressure creep. 

[Jonny Hotnuts]

I have not run the lines yet but the return is a -6 from the regulator back to the top of the tank. Am I making a big basic mistake, I thought that the pressure regulator fed the fuel rail but the diagram posted by Dan shows the regulator inlet down stream from the fuel rail working as a back pressure device. I guess that explains why the regulator has two inlets. I am feeling realy stupid about now. HELP!

Dont feel stupid, what you are talking about is a dead head system and they work for many applications. I wouldnt do one on your setup.

Try this:

tank-fuel filter-fuel pump-fuel rail in-fuel rail out-regulator in-regulator out-tank

You wont need a manual shut off.
The busa motor uses a TOS for its inertia shut off, and will shut the fuel pump off if tipped, providing you still use the OEM fuel pump power on the pump. Increase the fuel pump fuse 5 amps if you use the circuit.
If you have disabled the TOS or use other fuel pump power this is another story.

Check to see if the pump should have the filter pre or post pump. I do know these pumps are very sensitive to particulates and I have ran my filter pre pump to filter particles before they enter the pump.
The 044 or A1000 may in fact ask the filter is post.

You will need a fuel pressure gauge, and you are looking for 43 psi.

-What horsepower are you looking for?

Good luck.

~JH

[Jonny Hotnuts]

oh, and plug one of the regulator in ports.....

[fredvance]

use a 20 amp fuse for the fuel pump

[Jonny Hotnuts]

I thought the OEM was 15 amp....but what ever the case, what Fred said.

~JH

[DanBadger]

I have not run the lines yet but the return is a -6 from the regulator back to the top of the tank. Am I making a big basic mistake, I thought that the pressure regulator fed the fuel rail but the diagram posted by Dan shows the regulator inlet down stream from the fuel rail working as a back pressure device. I guess that explains why the regulator has two inlets. I am feeling realy stupid about now. HELP!

I try to run the regulator after the rails whenever convenient.  If there is junk (old gas, water, fuel pump chunks, etc) in the fuel system, the fuel in the rail has an easy escape other than through my expensive injectors.  It also removes the restriction of the regulator from the fuel circuit before the rail, which is nice if your fuel system is operating near it's limits.  Your game plan is also a kosher way of getting things done.

I see you are just down the road in Wilmington- I am in Yellow Springs.  Drop me a line via Private Message here or email me at pietsrock@yahoo.com and I'll shoot you my number.  I would love to check out your project!

[bharmon77]

JH, I just assumed that a mechanical fuel shut off valve was what the inspectors wanted to see? It sounds like if I wire the fuel pump into the engine wiring harness that a shut off valve is not needed as long as the TOS is working. I am suprised that a manual valve is not requird on a car?  The filter that Dan is using is a 40 micron from Jegs I will use it before the fuel rail and leave the 100 micron ahead of the pump.

BHarmon

[Jonny Hotnuts]

I believe the mechanical shut off is only required when a mechanical pump is used. This is because in the event of a roll the engine can still run or in a non roll over emergency (*fire) even if the engine is shut off the engine can still be turning over and causing the pump to pump fuel.

During the last few inspections I was asked about my fuel shut off and told the inspectors "this is a busa engine that uses the an electrical fuel pump with TOS to shut off the pump in the event of a roll and a master override that shuts off the pump when the battery disconnects are switched off"....

(*I use 2 battery disconnects, one in cab, one on the back. Both disconnects operate independent and done to switch off all electrical items in the event of a fire and is used as a 'master on' so all fans, pumps, compressors and other are all operated by one big switch. It is not a requirement to have two, just personal preference)

"good enough" was the response.


Rules may of changed regarding fuel pump shut offs, but am fairly confident that you will not need a mechanical shut off.

ALSO.....


IF YOU ARE GOING TO USE THE TOS YOU LET ME KNOW AND I WILL SEND YOU INFO ON WHAT YOU NEED TO DO TO PREVENT YOUR ENGINE FROM MISFIRING AT SPEED WHEN THE TOS IS USED!!!!

(*as you may guess I feel very strongly about my previous comment)

~JH

[RansomT]

use a 20 amp fuse for the fuel pump

If you are going to use the Busa harness ......
I'm going to man up and respectfully disagree with Fred.  The Busa fuel pump 12v supply is marginal at best for 15a, let alone 20a.  Use a 12v relay, then you don't have to worry.