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Author Topic: Post your "Things I have to change to conform to the new rules" list here  (Read 10814 times)
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bvillercr
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« Reply #15 on: December 01, 2010, 04:32:03 PM »

John, check with Tap Plastics. I think they're a lot cheaper.
http://www.tapplastics.com/

Brian, they don't have molded windows.  We could order flat sheets and cut to fit if they pieces long enough.  Front and sides only.
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thundersalt
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« Reply #16 on: December 01, 2010, 04:47:49 PM »

Troy, check this out grin
http://www.eharwood.com/catalog/product.php?productID=131
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Bob Drury
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« Reply #17 on: December 01, 2010, 04:50:41 PM »

  Just a question, has anyone tried forming the lexan over a stock glass curved window?   I assume using body shop heat lamps and clamps would be the way to go.  Do you cut it with a jig saw and a fine blade?  Tap plastics probably could give us the answers, or maybee if you made a paper template, it might be worthwhile to pay them to cut it.  They did my tail light lenses, and the cuts were really smooth, but I never thought to ask them what they used.
  They also sell drill bits for plastic, and I got a how-to sheet from them on the best proceedures for drilling.                                        Bob
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Bob Drury
bvillercr
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« Reply #18 on: December 01, 2010, 05:02:11 PM »


I talked with Steve the GM there, very racer friendly.  No tinting available.
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thundersalt
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« Reply #19 on: December 01, 2010, 05:03:10 PM »

 Just a question, has anyone tried forming the lexan over a stock glass curved window?   I assume using body shop heat lamps and clamps would be the way to go.  Do you cut it with a jig saw and a fine blade?  Tap plastics probably could give us the answers, or maybee if you made a paper template, it might be worthwhile to pay them to cut it.  They did my tail light lenses, and the cuts were really smooth, but I never thought to ask them what they used.
  They also sell drill bits for plastic, and I got a how-to sheet from them on the best proceedures for drilling.                                        Bob
That's how we have done it. Used a small reciprocating air saw with a fine blade to cut. You can smooth sand the edges with 180-240 grit. We used regular drill bits just make sure they are sharp and go slow.
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Stan Back
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« Reply #20 on: December 01, 2010, 05:39:44 PM »

"It does not say anything about the class record."

Come on, Bob, you know that won't fly.

Stan
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836dstr
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« Reply #21 on: December 01, 2010, 08:27:33 PM »

There are special blades for cutting plastics and fiberglass. They have tungstun abrasive on the leading edge and cut smoothly. No teeth to grab material.

Tom
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Nortonist 592
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« Reply #22 on: December 01, 2010, 09:07:35 PM »

Lexan won't cut with a regular blade.  It tends to crack and break and get expensive.  If you are going to do it yourself get the right blade.
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Get off the stove Grandad.  You're too old to be riding the range.
krusty
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« Reply #23 on: December 01, 2010, 11:13:33 PM »

Lexan cuts just fine with a regular jigsaw blade. Polycarbonate that is not Lexan will split and crack.     vic
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hitz
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« Reply #24 on: December 02, 2010, 12:56:19 AM »

Bob, you'll need 270 degrees F. to form Lexan.

Mike, You can tell the belts are polyester if they are so stiff you can hardly tighten them. Be sure the "anti dive" belt is 2" so it might not chaff stuff.

I've bought my helmet but I got a SA2005. At my age I probably won't need one for more than 5 years more. I haven't looked seriously at the head restraints yet but I heard you have to go to a 2" shoulder harness. Sure hate to throw away my custom Autopower 3" shoulder harness for something smaller so I can spend a bunch of money on a restraint that is going to increase my cockpit exit time!

Harvey
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Elmo Rodge
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« Reply #25 on: December 02, 2010, 06:33:18 AM »

Lexan cuts just fine with a regular jigsaw blade. Polycarbonate that is not Lexan will split and crack.     vic
Lexan is just a brand name for polycarbonate. They are the same. Wayno
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jimmy six
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« Reply #26 on: December 02, 2010, 09:59:26 AM »

Dyno....Nylon belts are SFI 16.1 and Polyester belts are SFI 16.5..................JD
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38flattie
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« Reply #27 on: December 02, 2010, 10:22:28 AM »


I talked with Steve the GM there, very racer friendly.  No tinting available.

Just FYI, I ordered mine here:

http://www.ridoutplastics.com/

I ordered a dark bronze tint, and it wa $312.35 for the entire car. Of course, all I have is flat glass, no curves.
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With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. However, this is not necessarily a good idea. It is hard to be sure where they are going to land, and it could be dangerous sitting under them as they fly overhead. -- RFC 1925

You can't make a race horse out of a pig. But if you work hard enough at it you can make a mighty fast pig. - Bob Akin

http://www.flatcadracing.org/
Ron Gibson
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« Reply #28 on: December 02, 2010, 12:19:06 PM »

No dog in this fight, I don't got no stinkin windows.  LOL 
That been said. It looks to me there are lots of safety film choices, from numerous suppliers, available.
All the SCTA has to do is specify a thickness, say 6 mil or 8 mil for strength. Then require a hole, 1/8" or so punched with a paper punch or similar, somewhere on all film applications so inspectors can check if applied and thickness.

Ron
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Life is an abrasive. Whether you get ground away or polished to a shine depends on what you are made of.
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« Reply #29 on: December 02, 2010, 12:51:29 PM »

Thanks Ron,

Two good ideas that I can take to the board.  grin

DW
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