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Author Topic: NACA 66 Special A/BGS  (Read 304890 times)
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Captthundarr
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« Reply #885 on: October 01, 2013, 06:07:51 PM »

Great to see the missle in action. I managed to get some pics on your second run. Saddly though never made to your pit for the drool session as Amy was on a mission to 150. May haps next year. Congrats on the lessons learned.

Frank.
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Live,Laugh, Love /  Jack Scratch Racing /ECTA   
Amy Hartman-Driver, Frank Hartman-everthing else.
C/GALT 137.65 Ohio Mile check that 144.12 2013, AA/GALT 159.34 Ohio Mile 2014. B/GALT 180.577 RECORD 6/15
bbarn
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« Reply #886 on: October 01, 2013, 06:11:30 PM »

Great to see the missle in action. I managed to get some pics on your second run. Saddly though never made to your pit for the drool session as Amy was on a mission to 150. May haps next year. Congrats on the lessons learned.

Frank.

What is really interesting is that we never made it into the pits. Since there is so much room on the open trailer, we have been able to "pit" wherever the trailer happens to be.

All of the pitting to date has been in line waiting to run. If we can figure out how to mount the easy-up on the open trailer, we may never put roots down!
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I almost never wake up cranky, I usually just let her sleep in.
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« Reply #887 on: October 01, 2013, 07:02:03 PM »

get Stainless to show you his arangement
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Miss LIBERTY,  changing TKI  to noise, dust and RUST!!!

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Glen
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« Reply #888 on: October 01, 2013, 07:16:30 PM »

The only time the Vesco liners are off the trailers is on the starting line, all maint. worl is done on the trailer except a engine change on the 444 car. Tralers are  made narrow for that reason. Easier at that height to work on. BTW your trailer and lift are neat as well as the transport supports at the wheel location, good planning. cheers
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Glen
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« Reply #889 on: October 01, 2013, 07:26:12 PM »

The only time the Vesco liners are off the trailers is on the starting line, all maint. worl is done on the trailer except a engine change on the 444 car. Tralers are  made narrow for that reason. Easier at that height to work on. BTW your trailer and lift are neat as well as the transport supports at the wheel location, good planning. cheers

The crane comes in real handy too for things other than lifting/lowering the car to the ground. Wheel inspection, lower bay work, fuselage removal... anything that you need to get under the car for.
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I almost never wake up cranky, I usually just let her sleep in.
gkabbt
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« Reply #890 on: October 01, 2013, 07:44:06 PM »

Like the car, the trailer and crane combo were very well thoughtout and it was amazing to see you guys swing the car off of it!
I think the trailer was almost as good as seeing the car!.....I said almostgrin   
OK, I lied, car was MUCH better!   cheers

Gregg
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Stainless1
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« Reply #891 on: October 01, 2013, 08:25:49 PM »

When you add shade, I would suggest the black mesh tarp.  We got ours at the farm store, cattle guard, shade for livestock, definitely worth the extra cost past a blue tarp. 
We never use the pit, except to store the stuff we hope we never need.  We have a work table, tool box and storage on our mobile pit.  here are a few pics


* BCtrailer.jpg (94.35 KB, 1024x682 - viewed 252 times.)

* BCtrailer2.jpg (79.95 KB, 511x768 - viewed 225 times.)

* BCtrailer3.jpg (123.35 KB, 1024x682 - viewed 233 times.)
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Stainless
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MSA Bockscar Lakester #1000 my fastest mile 245 and change, 84 ci turbobusa motor... but Corey's 233 MPH H/BFL record is still 3MPH faster than mine.
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« Reply #892 on: October 02, 2013, 12:15:27 AM »

Great job guys. I'm really curious about your panel fastening.

Question - would you guys mind sharing how your panels are secured? It looks like your using 120 degree flat heads along with tinnerman washers in all locations. Or are these tiny quarter turn fasteners? What size are these? Can you share the PN and source of the washers your using?

Also what hardware do you use on the back side? Nut plates? After doing some service do you have any concerns about the longevity of this combination?

I was planning on going allen head DZUS but I think this method might provide more positive retention. Any thoughts or opinions would be appreciated.

Thanks!
« Last Edit: October 02, 2013, 12:17:44 AM by JoshH » Logged
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« Reply #893 on: October 02, 2013, 05:30:56 AM »

Great job guys. I'm really curious about your panel fastening.

Question - would you guys mind sharing how your panels are secured? It looks like your using 120 degree flat heads along with tinnerman washers in all locations. Or are these tiny quarter turn fasteners? What size are these? Can you share the PN and source of the washers your using?

Also what hardware do you use on the back side? Nut plates? After doing some service do you have any concerns about the longevity of this combination?

I was planning on going allen head DZUS but I think this method might provide more positive retention. Any thoughts or opinions would be appreciated.

Thanks!

The fasteners are 100 degree flat-head 10-32 screws. Those that don't get frequently removed are stainless, those that do are CAD plated.

The fastener setup we used consists of three pieces: a floating nut plate, a recessed flat washer and the screw. All three pieces were sourced at Aircraft Spruce. They have an on-line catalog and a hard copy catalog. The screws are available in 1/8th inch increments and the nut plates both float as well as provide a mechanical locking/anti-back-out safety for the screws.

I know for sure on our facebook page there are pictures of the nut plates, I can't remember if I put them here on our build thread or not. When I get in front of a computer I will check this thread. If the pictures aren't here, I'll add them.

I don't have the full part numbers in front of me, only the memorized three digits that are used to identify the nut plates by size. The online catalog is easy to navigate though, you won't have any issues locating the screws, washers and nut plates.

When you are ready to tie into the project of installing the nut plates and counter-sinking the washers, we have a couple of tools we had professionally made that will help you out greatly.

I'll dig out the pictures and create a post detailing out the operation of installing the fasteners. I think it would be useful to others to see how we did it.
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I almost never wake up cranky, I usually just let her sleep in.
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« Reply #894 on: October 02, 2013, 07:11:40 AM »

Stainless the feature that grabbed me is your ability to "Swing the Shade" to follow the sun to keep it blocked.
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Miss LIBERTY,  changing TKI  to noise, dust and RUST!!!

The # 1 issue is: TO KEEP THE REPUBLIC      
   Center for Self Governance            tncsg.org     mrspowell.org

"Security is mostly a superstition. It does not exist in nature, nor do the children of men as a whole experience it. Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure. Life is either a daring adventure or nothing."   Helen Keller
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« Reply #895 on: October 02, 2013, 02:54:54 PM »

Rob,
Just a suggestion regarding your 10-32 flat head retainer bolts and the floating nut  nut plates. As the nuts are of the "deformed thread" locking style I would highly suggest a coat of anti seize on each fastener every once and a while. My roadster that I have taken to Bonneville at least the last 5 or 6 years and is driven alot on the salt uses a type of nut plate with the same type of nut, to hold on almost all of my body panels and interior aluminum panels and even though I pretty much dis-assemble and clean after getting home I still coat the 10-32s with anti seize to ensure they come out, that little 1/8 hex that can turn round pretty quickly when the bolts get tight and if it doesn't go round the hex hole in the bolt will and then it becomes a real "pain in the a$$!"

Rex
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« Reply #896 on: October 02, 2013, 04:52:43 PM »

Rob,
Just a suggestion regarding your 10-32 flat head retainer bolts and the floating nut  nut plates. As the nuts are of the "deformed thread" locking style I would highly suggest a coat of anti seize on each fastener every once and a while. My roadster that I have taken to Bonneville at least the last 5 or 6 years and is driven alot on the salt uses a type of nut plate with the same type of nut, to hold on almost all of my body panels and interior aluminum panels and even though I pretty much dis-assemble and clean after getting home I still coat the 10-32s with anti seize to ensure they come out, that little 1/8 hex that can turn round pretty quickly when the bolts get tight and if it doesn't go round the hex hole in the bolt will and then it becomes a real "pain in the a$$!"

Rex

Good advice, Rex. I use "Nikal" anti-seize for most applications.
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Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
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« Reply #897 on: October 02, 2013, 07:58:29 PM »

Thanks for the explanation. Much appreciated!

Any pictures or part numbers you can share would be great. I've always found it interesting that nobody makes tools for contouring fiberglass for such washers or the DZUS's with the spring and plate; I guess most guys apply these to sheetmetal so its less of an issue for them. Its certainly easier to make a forming tool for sheetmetal then a cutting tool for fiberglass.

I think this valuable detail would be really helpful to lots of like minded people!
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« Reply #898 on: October 02, 2013, 09:00:10 PM »

Josh, I did have a couple of those tools for c-sink / c-boring washers made. Should get delivered any day now. Do you want one? I have to warn you, they were not cheap.
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« Reply #899 on: October 02, 2013, 09:27:22 PM »

The crazy part about this body mounting system which unlike a dzus fasteners that add very little structural strength,  this closely spaced screw and washer system really adds to the overall strength of the chassis. We have seen the tell tale signs of this like minimized flex when lifting car from its center balance point.
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