Author Topic: A class bike build advice  (Read 7519 times)

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MTABike

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A class bike build advice
« on: September 15, 2010, 05:26:01 PM »
please delete
« Last Edit: March 05, 2018, 08:35:55 PM by MTABike »

Offline 55chevr

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Re: A class bike build advice
« Reply #1 on: September 15, 2010, 07:04:18 PM »
Get the rule book for where  you are planning to race ... My bike is 72" wheelbase and rigid ... a bit rough on the body at Maxton but no problem at Bonneville and Loring ... the reason for sport bike stuff is cheap and available ... tires are no problem to get ... and the stuff works.

Offline 55chevr

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Re: A class bike build advice
« Reply #2 on: September 15, 2010, 07:10:56 PM »



I used an S1W Buell donor bike ... nice wheels / front end ...

Offline wobblywalrus

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Re: A class bike build advice
« Reply #3 on: September 16, 2010, 01:51:23 AM »
The tubeless tires on mags are somewhat safer than tube types on wire wheels.  Lighter, too. 

Offline Stan Back

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Re: A class bike build advice
« Reply #4 on: January 26, 2011, 09:53:27 PM »
I always thought it was a good idea to attach the rear wheel.
Past (Only) Member of the San Berdoo Roadsters -- "California's Most-Exclusive Roadster Club" -- 19 Years of Bonneville and/or El Mirage Street Roadster Records

Offline wobblywalrus

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Re: A class bike build advice
« Reply #5 on: January 26, 2011, 10:35:40 PM »
What engine does it use?

Offline Stainless1

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Re: A class bike build advice
« Reply #6 on: January 26, 2011, 11:06:00 PM »
I always thought it was a good idea to attach the rear wheel.

Roadsters ya, bikes sometimes...

It looks like you have raised yourself up into the wind unnecessarily, A bike, think a little more outside the norm.  The low seat position is good, the high gas tank is bad....  :|
You can always add ballast in front of the wheel, the more room you have to hide stuff from the wind behind the engine and you the faster you will go. 
Just my thoughts, good visuals... stare at the pictures, play a little and take more.
Stainless
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Offline 55chevr

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Re: A class bike build advice
« Reply #7 on: January 27, 2011, 12:06:45 AM »

Rake: 35 degrees --- perfect
Wheelbase: 78" --- good ( mine is 75 - works well - very stable at 150 )
Seat height: 24 --- good -

Offline octane

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Re: A class bike build advice
« Reply #8 on: January 27, 2011, 04:13:17 AM »
Hi Scott
You say I'll run in the 650cc A-BG class.
What kind of blower/turbo set-up do you have in mind ?

.. With an inline 4 tearing a wide hole in the air is my front tire even really going to make much of a difference?

Here's something to have fun and play around with
concerning frontal area/drag/HP
that I used for my little supercharged Indian:

Go to : DRAG LOSS CALCULATOR
( and scroll down for 'calculator')



For calculating the frontal area I took a pic from the front
with markings for each 10 cm. ( This is what the bike looked like back then.
It's a bit different today )




...then made a 10 x 10 cm grit
( Arms tucked in more, on this pic )


...and calculated the area.
That came to 0.3355 sq. meter ----> 3.605 sq. feet.
As the parts further back from the grit-line appears smaller than they are,
so I adjusted it up to 3.9 sq. feet

I set the cd to 0.9, based on a know figure for another bike
and punched the figures into the drag loss calculator
Don't forget to ad to the total weight of rider: helmet, leathers, boot, gloves

cd----------------------.9
frontal area-------------3.9 sq. ft.
weight------------------539 lbs.
speed-------------------100 mph

 Horsepower needed....: 24.9

...............

cd----------------------.9
frontal area-------------3.9 sq. ft.
weight------------------539 lbs.
speed-------------------120 mph

 Horsepower needed....: 42.3


Good luck with your bike !

« Last Edit: January 27, 2011, 07:10:43 AM by octane »
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Offline dw230

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Re: A class bike build advice
« Reply #9 on: January 27, 2011, 09:57:00 AM »
The late Cliff Gullet had a sports store in Bozeman, Yamaha bikes, snow mobiles, water craft, etc. His brother, I'm sorry  - his name escapes me right now, runs the shop now I believe. They are experienced salt racers. I am sure you could get some good input from them.

Anyone remember the store?

DW
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Offline Buickguy3

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Re: A class bike build advice
« Reply #10 on: January 27, 2011, 10:01:19 AM »
  Dan
That would be Team-Bozeman.com. They are the Yamaha dealer.
  Doug
I keep going faster and faster and I don't know why. All I have to do is live and die.
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Offline bak189

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Re: A class bike build advice
« Reply #11 on: January 27, 2011, 10:09:00 AM »
Lars, those leathers certainly fit you a lot better then they did me.....especially now, I just got to loose weight...oh, sure
Question authority.....always

Offline dw230

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Re: A class bike build advice
« Reply #12 on: January 27, 2011, 05:16:48 PM »
Man, I wish it was dw320 !

DW
White Goose Bar - Where LSR is a lifestyle
Alcohol - because no good story starts with a salad.

Don't be Karen, be Beth

Offline Cajun Kid

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Re: A class bike build advice
« Reply #13 on: January 27, 2011, 05:31:07 PM »
Man, I wish it was dw320 !

DW

When you grow up lil 230 you can be 320  LOL
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Offline hotrod

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Re: A class bike build advice
« Reply #14 on: January 27, 2011, 06:16:46 PM »
Quote
Octane:
Thank you for the link.  I'll have to put something to scale off of in my next mockup pictures so I can start getting some ideas of speed vs. power.  I'm still a bit up in the air about which turbo I'm going to put on the bike, but right now it's looking like it will have a MHI TD04L-13g (stock turbo from a WRX in the US) for this year.  

Scott it might not make any real difference, but the stock TD04L turbo on the Subaru WRX is actually a 13T compressor not the 13G as widely believed. The compressor inducer does not have the right diameter to be the 13G.

See my notes in this Subaru forum turbo listing for details, and my estimate on peak flow for the 13T.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=699989

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-278517.html

Larry
« Last Edit: January 27, 2011, 06:53:25 PM by hotrod »