Australian Belly Tank

[wobblywalrus]

The book "The Step-by-Step Guide to Engine Blueprinting:  Practical Methods for Racing and Rebuilding" by Rick Voegelin ISBN-13 978-1-884089-26-8 gives all sorts of info about getting the best performance and reliability from standard parts.  There is a chapter on rods.  Some of the little tricks in the book I do at home.  The big value of the book is educating me so I can ask the right questions when I am talking to the experts.  

  

[racergeo]

  Just a couple of things that I noted from the pictures of the pistons. The fact that the wrist pins are tightened up might give a clue to your problem. Hyperu. pistons run real tight clearances on the pins (.0002) is not unusual. This is way tight in a high rev. engine and if you had any oil interruption they would start to gall . When the pins tighten up the piston with super tight clearance ( typically .001-.0015) start to scuff because it can no longer follow the cyld. bore as the tight pin wont allow it. The problem compounds it's self as the components are failing. Even as supplied, new TRW race pistons needed to be honed out in the pin bores to .0008-.001 or an engine that got hot would do the same thing to a race piston. I think some attention to extra clearance in the rotating assy. and a product known as a Canton Accusump oil accumulator would probably solve your problem.

[Nexxussian]

Doc, I've spoken with a few people about custom conrods.

I've had several suggest ordering them with small relief cuts at the big end to allow more oil up the cylinder bore.

It was suggested as an alternative to having to anchor piston cooling jets where they weren't designed to go.

FWIW the Pug I'm working already has piston coolers so I'm told I don't need said reliefs.   

[Reverend Hedgash]

 The big value of the book is educating me so I can ask the right questions when I am talking to the experts.

Ahhh, the joys of reading a good book.

We have a few in our Bellytank library. I like to go back to them and rre-read them now and again and realise how much I have learned in this weird journey. Things which made little sense the first time now seem obvious.

This book sounds like another good read, thank for recommending.

Dik

[Dr Goggles]

The big value of the book is educating me so I can ask the right questions when I am talking to the experts.

This book sounds like another good read, thank for recommending.
Dik

There's a copy on the way Rev

[grumm441]

Yep
I might have to dust off my copy
A bit of revision might be in order
G

[racergeo]

  I don't know your crank specs. but I have put SB chev rods (small and lg. journal) of varying lengths in Fords, 2300 Pintos, 351ws and 2.4 Toyotas to name a few. I have put bbc rods in 440 Mopars and 500 Cads. Just grind crank to approp size and offset for more stock if you have enough to work with.  On Ebay there is a set of Buick Indy V6 rods $195. 5.6 long if they would work cheap upgrade.. Ebay#330505520404. Enjoy

[grumm441]

On Ebay there is a set of Buick Indy V6 rods $195. 5.6 long if they would work cheap upgrade.. Ebay#330505520404. Enjoy

Thanks for the link
Unfortunately I think ours are 6.350. Haven't had a chance to measure them yet. Work got in the way
G

[Dr Goggles]

OK, we're rockin again. I was having trouble finding pistons that I could buy in the usual manner, you know, with money. Most everybody i found who could supply some wanted my left nut......Anyway upon the big auction site I( and yes you found it too Rev) found a guy trying to sell a project motor that had fallen over. He'd bought all the parts and had the machining done and then the project had conked out.Essentially it has the parts we had in the bottom end we did 193 with this year. It cost less than the re-bore might have cost us...

It came with sundry other bits and pieces....."ah, yeah, we're pretty right for heads thanks".in fact I left a lot of stuff behind. I had to do a six hour round trip to what's called Gippsland on one of the wettest days of the year and he was in one of the hilly bits, gee that was fun.

The pistons hadn't been fitted to the rods which was good because they're off to get coated.

We'll keep you updated......

[SPARKY]

 

[Dr Goggles]

yeah well, it's sounds silly but I was in a bit of hole about it all to be honest. It's a bad time of the year to be starting to try and co-ordinate an engine build. The series one V6 that we have been using has fallen off the radar a bit and performance pistons aren't muscling for shelf space the way they once were.....Scrounging incomplete builds, finding New old stock and that kind of thing is the only way to avoid having custom pistons made.... I don't want to put $1600 worth of pistons in a build that the last time we did it , by the looks of it, was gonna let go for a number of different reasons at the same time...until we get better at making them last we'll be sticking with these things we just got.

Am investigating slightly bigger injectors...then the oil mods that have been suggested...

later.

[grumm441]

So I'm standing in the little shed, staring at the motor and noticed that the rods on pistons 1, 3, and five are the ones with the blue ended conrods
G

[Milwaukee Midget]

Coriolis effect? 

[Geo]

No, that's odd. 

[Elmo Rodge]

No, that's odd. 

Eeeeeeeeek.  Wayno