Author Topic: F100 front end  (Read 3023 times)

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Offline Momec

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F100 front end
« on: August 05, 2010, 06:54:44 AM »
I'm building an '82 F100 to run in Production Pickup. Plan to have it ready for our next meeting at Lake Gairdner in March 2011.
My main concern is the front twin I beam suspension.
Two questions. Can these trucks be made to handle with little or no caster adjustment? 
Alternately can l replace the front suspension within the class rules. The rule book is not clear on this.

Thanks Chris
Acme Racing #251
XP Falcon Ute 174.651mph
82 F100 C/PP record 184.985mph
AU Falcon Ute D/PROU record 178.998mph
Lake Gairdner Aust.

Offline thundersalt

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Re: F100 front end
« Reply #1 on: August 05, 2010, 11:14:25 AM »
This truck ran 190 with twin I-beam. It belongs to Cole Cutler. PM him to see what he did to make it work. His user name on this board is gccutler.
916 REMR
2017 AA/FRMR Bonneville Record holder 234.663
2018 AA/GRMR El Mirage Record holder 223.108
2020 AA/BGRMR Bonneville Record holder 252.438
2021 AA/BGRMR Bonneville Record holder 262.685
El Mirage 200 MPH Club
Drivers/Owners: Brian & Celia Dean

Offline Momec

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Re: F100 front end
« Reply #2 on: August 06, 2010, 05:39:21 AM »
Thanks Thundersalt.
Don't think it will have the grunt for 190mph but gives me hope l can make it run in a straight line.
Chris
Acme Racing #251
XP Falcon Ute 174.651mph
82 F100 C/PP record 184.985mph
AU Falcon Ute D/PROU record 178.998mph
Lake Gairdner Aust.

Offline Milwaukee Midget

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Re: F100 front end
« Reply #3 on: August 22, 2010, 03:43:27 AM »
There's a trick on the I-beams, provided they're still forged - my '65 had such I-Beams.

I'll assume you also intend to lower the front end.

First thing you must do is replace EVERY SINGLE BUSHING AND MOVING PART.  Leave nothing behind.  Get it dialed as close to factory specs as possible, and then take accurate measurements and notes as to what your camber and ride height are. 

You can then lower them in the same manner that you can a front axle on an '30's  - '40's Ford by heating them up in a forge and stretching them with a hydraulic press. While they're still hot, you can also adjust the camber. 

I cut the springs on mine for a three inch drop, which initially gave me a touch too much negative camber.  By heating and stretching the I-beams, I picked up another inch of lowering, and was able to reinstate the camber angle.   Additionally, with less suspension travel, the camber stayed closer to the at-rest camber angle while driving (less arc + shorter spring with increased stiffness = less variance in angle). 

It's not a cheap fix, but it sure worked well, and contributed to a great stance and really decent tire life. 

The trick is finding a Blacksmith who can do this kind of work.  I had a buddy who was into sword making, and he knocked it all out in two days.
"Problems are almost always a sign of progress."  Harold Bettes
Well, I guess we're making a LOT of progress . . .  :roll: