XXO/BVGC '38 Chevy Coupe Build

[WOODY@DDLLC]

Round holes are easier to make and fix! 

[38flattie]

Rex, I believe that is correct.

Thanks woody-that would be simple enough!


Sometimes I forget ideas that are posted here, so I occasionally go back through to see what I've forgotten about. Today, I found this post from Rex, posted 2 years ago:

Another thought about linking the two sides of the block together, you might consider using a thick aluminum plate that picks up the 4 cast and machined lugs that the lifter carriers attach to and then machine the lifter bores into the plate. You would probably need a pair of plates one for the front and one for the rear but it would help (I think!) You could also use steel just to get the expansion rate the same, just takes longer to machine and adds some weight.

Rex

I really like the idea of somehow making a single lifter block, that ties the block together. I passed this on to Don and Dale for consideration, and I can here Dale now " Do you know how much work that will be to make, let alone design? The lifters are at angles, this will be a bitch!" LOL!

I think since we have to make the blocks anyway, this has a lot of merit!

[DND]

Hi 38

I built engines for 25 yrs , and would not touch that lifter deal with a ten foot pole like they say ' KISS ' you have enough one off stuff in your neat Flat Cad engine.

Just go with a proven method of linking the lifters together and run it and forget it.

Keep your mind thinking about the one off stuff that you have to have and not a thing like this.

Racers out think thier selfs a lot of the times for wanting to be way too trick, and that is not what wins races as you got to get that beauty to the flag first to win!!!

Don

[SPARKY]

Don as you know in LSR  you have to do it twice...

[38flattie]

Don as you know in LSR  you have to do it twice...

 

Ha-ha!

Don, I agree with you, to a point.

You have to remember, we are trying to get far more HP and RPM's out of this block than it was designed for. If we can make parts that do 'double duty', like this one could, it's to our benefit. If we can convert to roller lifters, AND have the lifter blocks help tie the block together, it might be worth the effort.

....besides, you know the saying-if it were easy, everyone would do it! 

Ultimately, though, Don machines the parts. Sometimes, the effort outweighs the benefit, so we'll see what he says.

[DND]

I think your idea of tying the block together with the lifter blocks is very good, just use a round hole and lifter.

Like Rex says bore - hone , you might leave a fine hone pattern for oil retension and have the lifter bodys ground to the size you wan't for clearence.

Then use a time proven way of keeping the lifters in line, and not some trick deal that could blow up on you.

I had a roller shell break one time and you talk about a mess in the bottom end, those small needle bearing's shot peened every part with very big dents that you could not grind out looked like a bomb went off in the pan.

All those cam guys already did the R&D on what works best to keep the roller lifters in line, just pick one style and go with that.

Keep your trick stuff for the items that you have to make on your Flat Cad !!

Don

[Milwaukee Midget]

I think Rex's idea of tying the block together with the guide plate in the gallery is inspired.

The wider angled center main will help, but there is still a lot of open space in this block, and it’s likely to twist and distort if you guys start creating the horsepower you're shooting for.  Anything you can do to stabilize this block will be a benefit.


 

[Jack Gifford]

FYI- Having suffered the agony of a "broken needle bearing roller" inside a race engine, I want to avoid needle bearings in the DOHC deal I'm building. Ron Iskenderian is willing to supply me with EZ-Roll wheels and axles to use in my one-off cam followers. If you want to look into that, call Isky and ask for Ron (afternoons, CA time).

[DND]

Hi Jack

It interesting to see what is new in the racing engine stuff, as i built the last engine in 86' a 6-71 blown small block for a street duece and he wrapped it around a tree [ i told him to be carefull ] a flat torque curve and 9" tires do not work to well in the hooking up dept.

Does Isky have a set up now without the needle bearings, just a shell and axle?

Those little devils sure do make a mess of a crank - rods and pistons etc.\

Don

[basher13]

Buddy, WZJunk,

I've been looking at the build pictures on the scoop and can't help but wonder a few things.
     How was the design determined?
     Why SO big?
The intake tube runs straight out and has a rounded base supporting it, 3"-4" above the hood?
Why not lose the base and suck that intake snout down to the hood, using slight bulges on either side working up to the height of the injector hat?
A big ramp with fairly flat sides doesn't look like it flows well.
It just seems like a lot more was added than what is needed, help me understand.

 
Dan

[dw230]

This is not me posting under another name.

DW

[pops29]

  HI All

  I don't get on the board very often at all but . To reply to the worries of some, about the lifter design.. most all roller lifter designs are based on traditional engine designs having the lifter bores cast in the block , This application limits us dramatically on our options. the design I went with will give us the best results, 90% of the lifter is round and will operate smoothly and bind free with no tabs or pins , key-ways ect.  With the lifter blocks being a separate part and bolted in the block this opened up the ease of the design and the EDM. work that will be done.  We have very little room in the block at assembly and Dale can tell you that for sure ! so any possibility if traditional lifter design will not work.

Don   

[Rex Schimmer]

Don,
As the old saying goes: "You are copulating with this cat, we are merely holding its head!" It is just great to watch the things you guys are doing to this "old lump" to make pretty respectable horse power, please continue!!

Rex

[SPARKY]

 

[WZ JUNK]

I think the short answer is that there is some features that the pictures leave out or are distorted because of the camera angle.  The sides and top of the scoop do have a curvature and rounded edges at the top.  The sides are as small as they came be that will allow room for the blower, injector, fuel lines and linkages that are underneath.  The scoop had to be symmetrical and yet leave as much room as possible in the windshield area.  The top of the scoop is curved with the same arc as the top of the car.  If we had been able to leave the scoop as I had originally planned, the air would flow continously from the snout over the top of the car.  The snout is above the hood to get it up away from the surface of the hood into good air flow.  All of this has been a design exercise.  We had to build something that would help the car, and yet be legal, without costing and arm and a leg, and taking a lot of time to build.  It had to be removable so that the car could run in two classes.

I was hoping someone would ask me, why I built such an odd piece.

John 

Buddy, WZJunk,

I've been looking at the build pictures on the scoop and can't help but wonder a few things.
     How was the design determined?
     Why SO big?
The intake tube runs straight out and has a rounded base supporting it, 3"-4" above the hood?
Why not lose the base and suck that intake snout down to the hood, using slight bulges on either side working up to the height of the injector hat?
A big ramp with fairly flat sides doesn't look like it flows well.
It just seems like a lot more was added than what is needed, help me understand.

 
Dan