(Motorcycle) Production Class Queries

[Frank06]

Hi everyone,

I'd appreciate your advice, comments, etc.  The bike I'm working on (T500 Suzuki) does not come with an ignition cutoff switch on the throttle control.  I'm contemplating fitting a simple SPST toggle switch that I believe meets the requirement for the engine stop switch.  Does this seem reasonable?

The stock petcock is operable from a normal riding position but is vacuum-operated: are there any issues with this?

Where do you folks buy your ignition kill switch lanyards?

Thanks!

Frank

[Seldom Seen Slim]

Pingle is one source, for sure.  As for the vacuum petcock -- as long as it's normally closed and only opens when the engine is running and therefore supplying vacuum -- I don't think there'd be a problem, but no doubt we'll want to see it in operation while you're in inspection.

[Frank06]

Thanks - that's how the petcock works for sure.  There's also the question of "stock appearing" versus aftermarket in this situation.

[Seldom Seen Slim]

Frank, the issue of stock appearing -- is only an issue if you're running in a production class - in which you'd best have full documentation, including photos, available as you go through inspection.  Factory shop manual is good, and also try to have the sales literature or perhaps something like the full literature that you've printed from on line.

[relaxedfit]

I picked up a lanyard from a disc lock set at a swap meet that is stronger & the same length as the one that came with my Pingle kill switch for $2 as a spare.

[Seldom Seen Slim]

Good move, Relaxer-guy.  One of the weakest links in the whole world of safety kill switches is the lanyard.  I once was presented with one at Bonneville -- and I thought it was so cheesy it wouldn't work.  So - I asked the rider to start his engine and give a tug on the lanyard "as if you were falling off the bike".  Tug -- and sure enough, the bike kept running and the guy had all but the lanyard's tail-end in his hand.  End of that story.  Having a spare is good -- they get lost, too, and that brings a premature end to your day of racing.

[Frank06]

Is there any requirement other than functional for a lanyard kill switch?  Ex. size, material, etc.

thanks

[Seldom Seen Slim]

Fraank, if you show up with an old set of (distributor) points tie-wrapped to the handlebars (and wired in series with the ignition circuit), and a small sliver a metal tied to an old leather shoelace that then is tied around the zipper pull of your leathers - so that when you pull the sliver out of the points the bike goes dead -- well, if you show up with that lame a setup we'll most likely tease the living Subaru out of you, tell you that you should walk around the pits 'til you find someone with a proper kill switch, and then -- if you really can't find one we'll maybe give you a "bye" in your logbook and let you run - but require you to have a "real" switch before we allow you to race at the next event.

Does that answer your question?  Save the embarrassment of having the entire Maxton crowd know that you're being goofy and lame-o -- and buy a Pingle or one of the other brands.

And - when you attach it to the bike - consider making sure the direction of the "pull to release" is horizontal, in the direction you'd most likely fall, rather than something like pointed forward or up.  We want it to shut off the bike once you're off, and if it isn't pointing the correct way the chances of breaking the lanyard, not the circuit, are increased quite a bit.

[Dakzila]

Paul Gast (www.fastbygast.com) sales an updated kill switch that meets the new AMA regulations for kill switches.
The lanyard is round and looks as sturdy as leather, crimped with heavy duty metal crimps and has a metal latch for connections to your leathers.

Just another choice when looking for quality racing products.

Thanks,
Buzz

[Frank06]

Leathers?










 

Jeez Jon, I'm a cheapskate but not that bad!  I thought I posed a reasonable question BTW.  Sure it's easier to buy a premade solution but lots of folks make their own components that are more critical than this.  If I were to make my own I'd probably use a 30A Anderson connector.  I don't have any old points as my philosophy is to use 'em up!  Buzz, thanks for the FBG link.

Good advice on mounting direction. 

[Seldom Seen Slim]

Frank, I used that example - because I've been presented with it a couple of times over my years as a bike inspector!  There are quite a few ways to accomplish the task of having a safety switch tethered to the rider's body, I agree, and not all of them are purchased from a manufacturer.  Just make sure yours works and works well and isn't going to falsely shut off your motor, either.