Skip’s “Thing” – Blown Fuel Roadster

[Peter Jack]

Skip:

Think carefully about the weight of those ballast bars and then the size of the brackets and bolts holding them in along with the single shear mounting. I might be considering either stronger mounting considering they're riding right with the driver or some secondary retention system. Just my suggestion. The car's looking really good.

Pete

[Stan Back]

Skip --

"They limit side to side rocking, although will still “give” if called to do so."

I'm thinking if they give, they won't pass tech -- and rightfully so.  Better minds please chime in on this.

Stan

[Freud]

From my past experience, just those posts took a major amount of time.

Hang in there, SKIP.

FREUD

[robfrey]

Look Great Skip! Keep going!

[Skip Pipes]

Hi Stan,

Your counsel on :
I'm thinking if they give, they won't pass tech -- and rightfully so.  Better minds please chime in on this.

Stan,
Thanks for the input. The Kirkey shoulder braces traditionally bolt to the seat and offer "some" cusion in case of a mishap. Mine are solidly bolted to the chassis, not the seat and what I should have said is;

they will deform (instead of give) arount the cage in a mishap (rather than my shoulder banging into the side of the car). You can yank on them and they stay put.     

[Skip Pipes]

Hi All,
Thanks all for the comments on the ballast bars.
I recall a post from “Dynoroom” (I think) that went something to the effect of; "Safety lessons learned in LSR are sometimes pain for with blood".

Wow, that statement made me rethink my roll cage strategy and so goes the ballast bars.
I was already fretting about them and had already added some additional brackets to hold the ballast. Nonetheless, after your relevant counseling I’ve added some additional bracing behind the seat (this evening). What’s not shown in the previous pics is the seat brackets (substantial brackets at that) that bolt/clamp the bars on the driver side to the crossmembers and step pan. Front to rear movement is limited by 2 x 4 inch welded-in cross members.

[Skip Pipes]

This weekend I finished welding the cage. Next time I'll be smarter and figure a way to weld the cage on the bench and then add it to the chassis. It’s starting to look like a race car!

[stratman59]

Skip,

Nice work .
Thanks for sharing.

Robbie

[Skip Pipes]

Are you like me? When you set your ambitions to build a race car you lie to yourself (plus friends/wife) and say “how hard can this be” someone else has done this before. Besides as there’s a load of cars out there just like mine!
 
Here's a confession; man this is a lot of work trying to pack 10 pounds of crap into a 2 pound bag.

And I seem to be functioning in “dog years” as everything I do takes 7 times longer than expected. To make matters worse I also spend 7 times more than budgeted.  Nonetheless, its cheap money for the satisfaction returned. It’ll all work out.
 
So as promised here are the pics of the roll cage. Its finish welded now and includes the required corner gussets (thanks to Stan). I haven’t welded in the down tubes yet as the motor plate will require final fitment (it’s at the machinist) and I want clear access for welding in the trans mount.

[Skip Pipes]

Now I'm on to the rear axle.

For months I’ve been vacillating back and forth over the rear axle and couldn’t settle on an open or locked diff, not to mention as well, quick change vs fixed.
 
I’m also concerned with roadster’s drivability and to my rookie eye; roadsters appear to a bit nervous (like me).

Therefore, I’ve listened to Sparky promote Torsen diffs, watched his video and I’m thinking he’s on to something. I’m convinced he’s right and thinks the Torsen will apply traction to the tire that needs it, which should settle “some” of a roadsters tendency to dart around. So I’m going with a Torsen diff.

I borrowed a 7.5 inch 10 bolt for mock up and axle length. And I’ve talked at length with my local diff shop (JS Gear) and they have a Torsen series 2 from a 1999-2002 Camaro and a 2.28 gear. They suggest upgrading to Mark Williams race pieces, new 3 inch axle tubes and Ford big bearing ends, as well as Currie custom axles. All reasonable recommendations. However I’m not sure this will be strong enough to handle 1000 high horsepower.

So would anybody know whether there’s a Torsen that will fit an 8.5 inch 10 bolt, as well as to whether there’s an acceptable 2.28 or close gear.         

[Dynoroom]

Now I'm on to the rear axle.

For months I’ve been vacillating back and forth over the rear axle and couldn’t settle on an open or locked diff, not to mention as well, quick change vs fixed.
 
I’m also concerned with roadster’s drivability and to my rookie eye; roadsters appear to a bit nervous (like me).

Therefore, I’ve listened to Sparky promote Torsen diffs, watched his video and I’m thinking he’s on to something. I’m convinced he’s right and thinks the Torsen will apply traction to the tire that needs it, which should settle “some” of a roadsters tendency to dart around. So I’m going with a Torsen diff.

I borrowed a 7.5 inch 10 bolt for mock up and axle length. And I’ve talked at length with my local diff shop (JS Gear) and they have a Torsen series 2 from a 1999-2002 Camaro and a 2.28 gear. They suggest upgrading to Mark Williams race pieces, new 3 inch axle tubes and Ford big bearing ends, as well as Currie custom axles. All reasonable recommendations. However I’m not sure this will be strong enough to handle 1000 high horsepower.

So would anybody know whether there’s a Torsen that will fit an 8.5 inch 10 bolt, as well as to whether there’s an acceptable 2.28 or close gear.         

Sparky had ~1000 I think.

Bill Ward ran one with a blown big block Chevy.

Glenn Deeds had 2 in his 1800 ft/lbs. all wheel drive roadster before it was outlawed.

I'm must be missing a few other I'm sure.

I think you'll be surprised what you can get away with on the dirt or salt.....

[Skip Pipes]

Hi Mike,

Thanks for the encouragement. I think Sparky runs a 7.5 inch vs 8.5 inch but im not sure, maybe he will chime in tomorrow. Nonetheless, at the very least I'm going with the 7.5 inch with a Torsen.

Thanks - Skip

[Skip Pipes]

Question for Sparky

I'm going with a Torsen. So I borrowed a 7.5 inch 10 bolt for mock up and axle length (pic above). My local diff shop has a series 2 Torsen from a 1999-2002 Camaro and a 2.28 gear for my project.

My question is; are you running a 7.5 inch or an 8.5 or an 8 7/8 inch, and is there a Torsen for each?

Thanks,
Skip Pipes         

[SPARKY]

7.5,  same carrier with 2.14--  remember I am running no tq converter and stock valve body---my car shifts slow and smooth- no bang loads
I run big ford roller brgs and DRUM brakes with resplined  5x5 ford axels---good luck---

If you want something stronger the GM 8 7/8 10-12 Caddy is availabe with the same 2.28 gears---the ford 8.8 stuff is based off this axel
torsen availble as well as a MW Greek coupler

[Skip Pipes]

Hi Sparky,

Thanks for the excellent info.

Myself, I’m running a Tex Nascar 4-speed with .94 overdrive. As I pay the bills I plan to be gentle with the shifts.
 
I’m intrigued by drum brakes and ASSume they are used because they don’t eat speed and can be backed off to zero drag.

I once worked for a fellow that said poor people should take rich people to lunch. Also applies to lessons in racing, I owe you lunch!

Skip Pipes