Thoughts on Chains for Low HP Bikes ?

[Nortonist 592]

754,  As I said i work for an auto supply company and seeing that we do industrial chain I had to try it.  I wouldn't dare use it at Bonneville.  I tried it at El Mirage and it is a ONE run chain.  If I had any more HP I wouldn't even think about it but I'm one of those curious people and had to find out how bad the chain was.  I bought a strand of the best quality non o-ring D.I.D. chain and it is lasting way beyond my expectations.  Expensive but its one laess thing to woryy about.  Funny you should say "broke during a run".  The last strand of Renolds I had (of a 20' length I bought years ago) broke right before the lights at El Mirage.

[1212FBGS]

Ok
Although I don’t claim to be a “chain” expert…I have destroyed quite a few…and by “destroyed” I mean when we sent them to RK in Japan for evaluation they simply were amazed at what we had done to them…. So first off I wanna say, “buy the best chain you can afford” and if you cant afford it, save your money and them buy it…. Really, there is a huge difference in quality of chain and the performance between them…. Go to your local dealer and have them show you a cheep chain and a pricey one… compare the thickness of the link plates, compare the pin size and the roller themselves, you will see a huge difference… As for the “O” ring and non “O”ring…we tried no “O” before, that’s when we were stupid… not saying we are smart now but we believed in the “less drag” theory…. no “O” always failed way faster than the “O”…the reason is that the link plates rub on each other every time it makes a turn around a sprocket and creates a tremendous amount of heat, so much heat that the chain turns purple… the “O” ring spaces the link plates apart so that they don’t rub…and after the chain warms up the “O” rings don’t drag any more… if this was a 50cc bike I would say no “O” but at 500cc you need "O"…. We ran the best MX chain RK makes on the Aprilia that Dusty set the 250PP record with…the fastest he ever went was WITH the “O” ring chain and PJ1 lube (in the blue can) stay away from that chain wax crap…. Stay away from high solvent cleaners like WD40 as it gets trapped between the rollers and pins…if you need to clean the chain of excess lube test the cleaner on your fingers first, the solvent should evaporate fast or don’t use it, then lube the livin snot out it….. I have been sponsored by RK for 23 years but during my chain problem years we tried other brands…. they failed just as quickly…. Hopefully we have our chain problems past us... RK was helpful and supportive so my suggestion would be RK 520MXZ4…it is the lightest MX chain, Biggest pin dia, thickest plates, and should last you a season, and don’t buy the GB unless your into that gold plated bling bling extra charge…. good luck
Kent

[754]

What were you doing when the chains turned blue..?

 We have gotten quite noteworthy long life out of standard chains (good quality) lubed with gear lube, on street bikes of medium HP. probably more than some get out of Oring chains.
 It always seemed to take the shock of laying rubber and doing burnouts quite well..

 Interesting what Regina chains recommends to use on their products.

 If you have something that works well,stick with it..

[Dan Stokes]

Not a bike guy, but I'm hearing Sister 'Ree (Aretha Franklin)

"Chain Chain Chain
Chain Chain Chain
Chain of Fools"

I'll leave it to you guys to decide how that fits in here.

Dan

[donpearsall]

I know this thread is about low HP bikes, but I run a 530 non o-ring chain on my high HP turbo-ed Hayabusa. I have to replace the chain every year. Not necessarily because it stretches, but because no matter what I do to clean the chain, it always ends up corroding by the time the next season comes up. So I have to consider chains to be disposable. I have a chain from last year that I cleaned with kerosene as soon as I got home, then sealed it in a baggie with about a cup of oil. I just looked in there the other day and it is very corroded. It is not frozen, but the plates and rollers got crusty, even immersed in oil. Salt is evil.

Don

[fredvance]

But it is fun.

[John Noonan]

I know this thread is about low HP bikes, but I run a 530 non o-ring chain on my high HP turbo-ed Hayabusa. I have to replace the chain every year. Not necessarily because it stretches, but because no matter what I do to clean the chain, it always ends up corroding by the time the next season comes up. So I have to consider chains to be disposable. I have a chain from last year that I cleaned with kerosene as soon as I got home, then sealed it in a baggie with about a cup of oil. I just looked in there the other day and it is very corroded. It is not frozen, but the plates and rollers got crusty, even immersed in oil. Salt is evil.

Don

Don,

You should be running a Subaki Sigma 530 O-ring chain..and a rivet link as well, if you are coming to El Mirage let me know and I can get one for you and bring it along with a chain breaker and a rivet tool as well.

J

[1212FBGS]

Don
those non "O" drag chains don't get the extra corrosion barrier treatment that a standard chain gets.... the drag chains are designed to be replaced and tossed after 3 drag hits on em..... so they don't get the extra treatment.... we use 520 on the PP bike.... 520 is actually stronger than 530..... it has the same link plate thickness but the distance between the plates is narrower so less chance on pins bending or in our case breaking.... I know i know the book says the 530 has a higher tensile strength than the 520 but what you are actually looking at is strength on the roller face so a 530 has a wider face than a 520 so the higher the TS but believe me a 520 is stronger than a 530.... and has less reciprocating weight....
Kent

[754]

Don are you running Tsubaki 530 QR?

1212, are you saying the QR is not corrosion protected or a different drag chain?

[John Burk]

Why don't people use tooth belts ?

[Speed Limit 1000]

What were you doing when the chains turned blue..?

How about 220 mph in our Lakester With a 20 front and 26 rear sprocket. 1212 has it right Spend the extra money, that is if you are going to run the long course. On the short maybe it doesn't make any differance

[donpearsall]

I have been using the EK 530 DR2 chain, but now with John's and Riches comments, I may change to an O-ring. I can't easily change to a 520, because all my sprockets are for 530 width chains. So I may just get the Tsubaki o-ring chain. Which brings up another issue... The X-ring chain is supposed to have a lot less friction (they claim) than the standard O-ring. Any thoughts on that?

PS . Thanks for the offer to bring a chain to Elmo John. However the only event I can make it to this year is BUB.

Don

[Warp12]

As for the “O” ring and non “O”ring…we tried no “O” before, that’s when we were stupid… not saying we are smart now but we believed in the “less drag” theory…. no “O” always failed way faster than the “O”…the reason is that the link plates rub on each other every time it makes a turn around a sprocket and creates a tremendous amount of heat, so much heat that the chain turns purple… the “O” ring spaces the link plates apart so that they don’t rub…and after the chain warms up the “O” rings don’t drag any more…

Why are the strongest drag racing chains non o-ring? Are the pins longer on an O-ring chain? Are they more likely to bend? Is this potentially a problem with a very high hp bike that can get some degree of traction (asphalt or concrete track)?

For some reason I seem to recall that the ZZZ o-ring chains do not hold up well to high hp turbo apps, where there is traction.

I don't much about chains, but I sure am curious.

Shane

[754]

Don, you can thin the sprockets in a lathe. Rears are easy, front is tougher, can be ground and measure carefully.
 If they are surface hardened you may break through so might be better to buy a front. Make sure you radius or bevel tips, just like the side you left.

[MiltonP]

My plan is to go ahead and run my current stock chain at Loring and switch to the DID Super non-o-ring chain in Maxton this fall probably.  On a side note, I overheard a track day rider at work recommending a nearby shop to someone who was looking at getting into racing.  A racer I know also gave a thumbs up so i decided to swing by there today and check it out.  Needless to say, i was quite pleased to find Ali, one of our land speed racers, working there.  He was quick to confirm everyones 'critique' of my tuck style by the way!     

The shop, RnR, in Sterling, VA is operated By Rick Beggs who has also worked on some Ninja 500's in the past which is a nice bonus.  I decided to pass on running at the dragstrip saturday and take the bike to shop for a short dyno session instead.  Of course, if the weather is great saturday then...