Thoughts on Chains for Low HP Bikes ?

[MiltonP]

My Ninja 500 still has the stock 520 O-Ring chain and I was browsing through the options for replacement.  Greg (roadracer) and a few other mentioned running standard (non-O-ring chains) on lower HP bikes.  The cheapest standards only have a wear resistance of around 100 while the DID Super seems to be a good choice with a wear resistance around 400 and tensile strength around 8k that seems to match up with the race duty O-ring chains. 

What I am wondering about is DID's new narrow VT2 Enduro Racing Chain that is X-Ring style.  It costs about twice as much as the Super Non-O-Ring but has a wear resistance of around 3,000 and was recommended at my local shop since my bike was only 500cc.

Any thoughts on O-ring versus x-ring versus no ring?  I seem to remember non-O-Ring dirt chains from my childhood having an oiling mechanism which is obviously something one doesn't use on standing mile course.

[sabat]

The lightest non-oring chain will free the most power. Wear resistance is for endurance racing

[Dakzila]

I'd have to agree with Sabat....

Just my two cents worth (take it for what's it worth because I have not even run on the dirt yet!)  Seems to me chains would be an expendable item in this form of racing.  I would think you'd want the cheapest, lightest, non o'ring, hightest tensile strength chain you could get.

Buzz

[55chevr]

Not a bad concept. I run 5 times a year between Maxton and Bonneville maybe 30 runs total and I replace the chain each year.

[willieworld]

sheri and i buy the cheapest chain we can get --we go to 6 meets at el mirage and 1 at bonneville  --we run about 60 miles a year---and put new chains on before the may meet--we do wash and oil them between each meet---we run the same chains on our street bikes ---on the street bikes we  replace them every 30000 miles           willie buchta

[Nortonist 592]

I work for an auto supply co. and we have an "industrial" chain that comes in varous sizes.  I use 1/2" for the primary chain.  Its crap!  My Norton makes 55hp give or take and the chain lasts one run.  I get it cheap so I can afford to do that.  When I went to Bonneville I bought a length of the best non o-ring DID.  Its been on there since 2007 with no signs of wear or stretching.  So it will depend on what you want to do.  But the best and not worry or buy some cheap industrial crap and change the chain each run.

[MAZDA1807]

lose the chain and run a car!!!!!

[willieworld]

bill  when i say cheapest chain i was talking about motorcycle chain --- usually cc rider  from custom chrome                                                                                                      willie buchta

[Nortonist 592]

Willie, when I say cheap I mean cheap!

Mazda 1807,  Nearly there Willie, Sheri and I run three wheels.  You need to lose a wheel and really have fun.

[MAZDA1807]

I have plenty of fun on four wheels as well as you guys have on two or three!!!

[55chevr]

Industrial chain is not designed for high speed. I use miles of Diamond 50 chain in our conveyor system. It lasts for years in constant velocity power transmission applications driven by a 2 horsepower electric motor at 1750 rpms. I wouldnt dream of using it on a motorcycle.

[davidd]

I have to use several chains for road racing due to the selection of sprockets I use depending on the course. Because I am running an 60 year old bike I stuck with Reynolds GP 520 chain until it was no longer available. I switched to RK GB520MXZ4. It has a tensile strength of 9,000 foot pounds, which is reasonably high and is suitable for 500 motocross bikes, which make more power than mine. I do not have any experience with O ring chains, but I would agree with the comments already posted. I clean the chain with WD40 and oil it after cleaning. I am too chicken to use cheap chain, although I have been buying the RK chain as cheap as I can find it on line. I would not worry about wear and replacement every year is probably a wise thing. I rotate my chains, cutting the longest ones down when they start to wear out. I use the largest sprockets (and longest chains) most. The short ones I only use a couple of times a year.

David

[shiphteey]

The Ninja 500 is no horsepower brute.  If I were you I'd look at just about any inexpensive non o-ring chain you can find that is suitable for your application, most will be in a 520 config save for the really inexpensive Bikemaster.  They even state they are rated for 250cc last I checked their entry level 520 non o-ring.  That being said LSR isn't quite like the drag strip and I can't see you coming out the hole chain stretchingly hard on a stock wheelbase Ninja 500!  Best of luck.

[roadracer]

There you go Milton.  DID makes a good cheap chain that my 250 or your 500 will not use up in a full year of Land Speed runs.  I only put the DID gold on the 636 because I had one left from roadracing.  As of next year it will be gone and it will be the standard cheap DID.  Keep it lubed and clean, check the tension on it and if like the 250, it will last all year.

[754]

Nortonist, I would stay away from the Industrial chain..
 the end results could be more that you can afford.

 - very rapid wear, which can wear your sprocket as it rides up the teeth.

 - I have seen them split rollers, when that happens, things go downhill fast.

 - I have a few 18 T sprockets that are OEM, one has 2 teeth left, the other 6 left, they sound like popcorn coming off.

 Maybe you have a ready supply of sprockets, but for me it is just no longer worth it.. not to mention if it broke during a run.