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Author Topic: Team Go Dog, Go! Modified Partial Streamliners  (Read 685755 times)
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wobblywalrus
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« Reply #825 on: July 13, 2012, 12:14:11 AM »

The trailer bearings are inspected, cleaned, and regreased every year.  The hub is a real basic setup.  This time there is some evidence the bearing inner races were spinning a little bit.  See the wear marks on the axle.

My memory tells me this is an indication I did not have enough preload on the bearings when I assembled the hub last summer.  Is my thinking correct or do I have it backwards?     


* Trailer Pix 1.JPG (163.3 KB, 800x459 - viewed 152 times.)

* Trailer Pix 2.JPG (185.65 KB, 800x589 - viewed 157 times.)
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charlie101
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« Reply #826 on: July 13, 2012, 06:12:14 AM »

I can't tell if the inner race fitting is tight enough on the axle and can't know if you preload too little or too much, but my thinking is if the bearing runs hot, the inner ring expands and is more likely it will spin on the axle. After a while, a loose conical bearing will show fretting from vibrations on the rolls or race and a tight bearing will show contact wear from rolls sliding or lack of lubricant film (matte rings of wear on the race rings).  If the race fitting is not enough on the axle, one way to torque the inner races together and prevent any likelihood of spin is, you can make a distance tube (in one or two parts) with shims between to adjust preload with.
« Last Edit: July 13, 2012, 06:41:55 AM by charlie101 » Logged
Jon
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« Reply #827 on: July 13, 2012, 08:35:41 AM »

Tapered rollers will last a lot longer a little bit loose compared to a little bit tight.

Cheers
jon
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wobblywalrus
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« Reply #828 on: July 15, 2012, 11:59:47 PM »

A virus got me.  It was a page that said I made some sort of federal crime of copyright infringement and I would need to send money to get my computer unlocked.  It took a few hours to get that one deleted out of the system.

Most everything I read on the internet under "small utility trailer wheel bearing adjustment" says to not use any preload.  They say to provide a very small amount of free play.  This was hard to set with the castle nut I had.  I could only set and hold the nut at 1/6 turn intervals with the cotter pin.  The castle nut is to the left in the photo.  The standard nut and pressed steel retainer on the right is from some sort of Ford.  It allows me to set and hold the nut at any place I want with the cotter pin.  This gives me a lot of precision when I set and lock the axle spindle nut. 


* Trailer Pix 3.JPG (159.07 KB, 800x369 - viewed 132 times.)
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wobblywalrus
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« Reply #829 on: July 18, 2012, 12:12:22 AM »

One of the fast Aussie bikes had some stability issues last year when a tail was fitted.  A number of us with "tailed" bikes have concerns.  I certainly was extra careful during the tail design.  The main reason I will be running in run-watca-brung class this year is it gives me an opportunity to try the new tail and to make adjustments.

The front of the tail needs to be as wide as my butt and there is a maximum length it can be.  This is from my arse to 8 inches beyond the back of the rear tire.  The wheelbase is lengthened three inches and this gives me some additional distance.  This distance is 2.65 feet.

In this 2.65 feet I could do two things.  One is to taper the tail to a point as seen from a top view.  This would eliminate base drag.  A problem is the taper angle would be fairly severe and it is likely the air flow would detach from the sides.  We almost always run in some sort of side wind.  This would mean the flow would detach from one side and not the other, or it would detach at different locations on each side.  The air pressure on the sides of the bike varies when the flow attaches and detaches.  This could lead to handling issues.  It was decided to avoid a pointy tail.

The tail skirts are 0.85 feet apart at the end of the tail.  This is a truncated end and it creates base drag.  The sides do not have a severe taper, though, and it is likely the air flow will stay attached throughout their length.  Another advantage of a slighter taper is, when and if the flow does detach, there is less turbulence downstream from the detachment point along the sides.

An open or closed truncated end was the next question.  There would be some pressure differential and associated forces at the very end of the bike if the end was closed.  Possibly a lifting force.  An open end seemed like a better idea and that was done.

Last was weight.  The tail is far from the bike's center of mass.  A heavy tail could create all sorts of stability problems besides aerodynamic ones.  Lots of care was used to keep it light.  It weighs 20 pounds including the seat.

I am no aero expert.  These are some of the basic things I did and hopefully they will work.
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wobblywalrus
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« Reply #830 on: July 19, 2012, 11:20:28 PM »

Yesterday I was asked to look at some river bank protection in a city park.  There was a flood last year and some of the rock was washed away.  Look at what was uncovered.  The quality of the chrome plating on that old bumper is first rate.  It still looks good after being buried in a river bank for at least 50 years.


* Old Karz 1.JPG (80.53 KB, 640x480 - viewed 198 times.)

* Old Karz 2.JPG (105.61 KB, 640x480 - viewed 201 times.)
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wobblywalrus
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« Reply #831 on: July 26, 2012, 11:30:42 AM »

Greetings from California.  Right now we are camped on my sisters back porch.  There are bears here.  One is big.  My family likes to live in the woods, for sure.  A couple if pix.  One is Gretchen, my youngest girl, out on the pumice plain east of Bend, Oregon.  The other is from Abert Rim.  This is the tallest exposed fault in North America.  I was too cheap to buy a new map and I had a 20-year old one.  It took a day of hard riding to find this place cause there were a lot of changes to the roads and trails in the last two decades.  It was worth it.

This is off-topic and I am a bonehead.  But what the heck.  It is the off season...in Australia.  Good luck with speedweek.  It is getting close.  Set lots of records and do not crash and burn.   


* 2012 Trip 1.JPG (243.25 KB, 800x600 - viewed 178 times.)

* 2012 Trip 2.JPG (165.82 KB, 800x600 - viewed 159 times.)
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Old Scrambler
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« Reply #832 on: July 26, 2012, 04:52:48 PM »

Thanks for the pics.........our daughter the MD works for the medical facilities in Fall River Mills, CA.   That can't be too far from your porch..........
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2011 AMA Record - 250cc M-PG TRIUMPH Tiger Cub - 82.5 mph
2013 AMA Record - 250cc MPS-PG TRIUMPH Tiger Cub - 88.7 mph
2016 AMA Record - 750cc M-CG HONDA CB750 sohc - 130.7 mph
2016 AMA Record - 750cc MPS-CG HONDA CB750 sohc - 137.7 mph
Chasis Builder / Tuner: Dave Murre
Jon
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« Reply #833 on: July 26, 2012, 07:33:58 PM »

Nice pics, doing stuff with your kids makes it all worthwhile IMHO.

jon
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wobblywalrus
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« Reply #834 on: July 28, 2012, 08:45:44 PM »

Dennis, Fall River Mills is in this area.  I'll call your daughter after the big crash.

Jon, my children exceed my maturity level in mid teenagerhood.  After this they do things with their friends and not Rose or me.  This is something I am enjoying while it lasts.
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wobblywalrus
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« Reply #835 on: August 13, 2012, 12:15:16 AM »

The Triumph is coming along.  All the street stuff is off, all bolts checked for tightness, it is regeared, taped up, coated with preservative and ready to be dressed with the tail, fender, and fairing.  The fairing went on this afternoon.  It is a bit narrow.  The lever ends hit the sides and there is only a half inch clearance between the bar ends and the sides.  Fortunately I made the side panels removable so I could comply with FIM rules.  The FIM requires that the rider be visible from the sides.  I will take them off and this will fix the clearance problem for now.  This winter I will widen the fairing so I can use it with side panels.   


* Fairing Rebuild 173.JPG (410.76 KB, 765x600 - viewed 202 times.)
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Peter Jack
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« Reply #836 on: August 13, 2012, 07:49:12 AM »

Can you use slightly narrower bars or even clip-ons? With all the other work you do preparing to race I would think that a bar change would be one of the easy changes with a pretty fair return on the effort invested.

Pete
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Koncretekid
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« Reply #837 on: August 13, 2012, 03:41:03 PM »

Peter, you took the words right out of my mouth, while I went to the shop to take a photo of mine.  Bo, my fairing is 23-1/2" inside, and I manage with clip on mounts, but using cut-off Honda 350 bars.  You can barely see the bars in this photo, but they work.
Tom


* Bird's eye view of cockpit.jpg (84.7 KB, 1280x960 - viewed 162 times.)
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« Reply #838 on: August 13, 2012, 04:53:56 PM »

my u bars are much easier than the clubman bars.
and a lot less vibration, also.

franey

you can cut up a set of buckhorn handlebars  to get the upside down u .
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bub '07 - 140.293 a/pg   120" crate street mill  
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lta  7/11 -163.389  7/17/11; 3 run avg.-162.450
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wobblywalrus
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« Reply #839 on: August 14, 2012, 12:20:38 AM »

Thanks for the ideas.  Any solution cannot involve spending any money.  This evening after work I got out the torch, some hammers, the sawzall, and went to work.  It was hot out there in the sun.  The sweat dripping of my head got on my glasses and into my eyes.  I had to take my glasses off.  My eyes stung.  The heat, not seeing very well, and general bad attitude I have from working on this thing all year affected my judgement.  It was an ugly and violent scene.  I got it all sorted.  The bars turn.

This will be a good year.  Everything is falling into place.  Big speed will happen.   
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