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Forum's going down again sometime!
The first and second "rebuilds" ran into some bigtime problems.
Regrouping again....
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Author Topic: Team Go Dog, Go! Modified Partial Streamliners  (Read 773501 times)
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wobblywalrus
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« Reply #2115 on: September 04, 2015, 12:45:10 PM »

The bike got here a half hour ago and it is undergoing house cat inspection.

The big motorcycle show by Progressive Insurance is in Portland this year rather than Seattle.  I was asked to bring the bike for exhibit.  Can't miss that.  The plan is to pull the cyl head this weekend and put on one of the spare heads for the show.  Then, I will take all of the measurements.


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fordboy628
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« Reply #2116 on: September 06, 2015, 06:52:22 AM »

Flow data in tabular form.

OK, question:

Are these flow numbers for the valves/ports in their stock form without any modifications?   Or?

 cheers
Fordboy
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I used to be a people person.  But people changed that relationship.

"There is nothing permanent except change."    Heraclitus

"Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former."     Albert Einstein
wobblywalrus
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« Reply #2117 on: September 07, 2015, 12:35:57 AM »

The head is ported with standard size 26mm exhaust valves and 2mm oversize intake valves that are 33mm diameter.  The pistons I intend to use give 12 to 1 static compression and 995cc displacement.  The 865cc setup I ran at Pendine was for that race, only.

Saturday I got the rubber for making some port castings.  I will slice them and measure the segments to get the port cross-sectional area.  It will take a week or two.  Right now I am real busy getting ready for the rains and winter.  Firewood, chimney cleaning, rain gutter cleaning, putting a roof on the new shed, etc.   
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wobblywalrus
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« Reply #2118 on: September 07, 2015, 11:04:12 PM »

The bike is safe in the shed and there is no corrosion damage after being at sea for months at a time.  Many thanks to you'all, like Maj, who gave me info about their crates and shipping problems.

Damage from customs inspectors opening the crate was mentioned.  I tried to make it easy to open the thing so hopefully they would refrain from using tools of destruction.  It worked.  They pulled out the wires and pins to open the box.  I can tell 'cause the way the wires in the pin ends were bent.  It was different than the way I do it.

Sealing the bike from corrosive air was another issue.  Plastic sheets are used by construction contractors to keep the moisture in fresh concrete while it hydrates.  This sheeting is tough and people can walk on it.  A big square of it was put over the crate base.  The eyes for the tie downs were pushed through this sheeting and screwed tight into the crate base.  The bike was rolled over the sheet and onto the base.  It was tightened down with straps and all of the other junk I packed was piled around the bike.   


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wobblywalrus
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« Reply #2119 on: September 07, 2015, 11:21:00 PM »

The sheeting was pulled up over the bike and the overlapping sheets were rolled together and taped down with packing tape.  A dehumidifier was put in a cardboard box in the crate.  It was some white powder that was poured into the bottom of this plastic container. Dri-z-air is what I think it was.  The container was full of liquid when I opened the crate  This is moisture in the air that the dehumidifier caught and retained.

The crate was 91 inches long.  It just fit into shipping containers and trucks with inches of clearance on each end between the crate end and the truck or container side.  Do not make your crate longer than this or it will not fit unless they pick it up by the end.  A lot of loading equipment, like pallet jacks, can only pick up the crate from the side and not from the end.

This caveman type simple shipping method worked real well.


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4-barrel Mike
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« Reply #2120 on: September 08, 2015, 12:20:58 AM »

But, but, but...what was the hold-up in releasing your bike at local customs?   huh

Mike
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Mike Kelly - PROUD owner of the V4F that powered the #1931 VGC to a 82.803 mph record in 2008!
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« Reply #2121 on: September 08, 2015, 06:28:32 AM »

The head is ported with standard size 26mm exhaust valves and 2mm oversize intake valves that are 33mm diameter.  The pistons I intend to use give 12 to 1 static compression and 995cc displacement.  The 865cc setup I ran at Pendine was for that race, only.

Saturday I got the rubber for making some port castings.  I will slice them and measure the segments to get the port cross-sectional area.  It will take a week or two.  Right now I am real busy getting ready for the rains and winter.  Firewood, chimney cleaning, rain gutter cleaning, putting a roof on the new shed, etc.   

Nominal valve stem diameter please.   6/7mm?   Or?

Thanks in advance.
 cheers
Fordboy
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I used to be a people person.  But people changed that relationship.

"There is nothing permanent except change."    Heraclitus

"Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former."     Albert Einstein
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« Reply #2122 on: September 09, 2015, 12:55:19 AM »

In reference to reply 2114, the pins are offset to reduce piston slap and the clearance measurement is at the bottom of the skirt.  I will measure the piston dimensions tomorrow.

Pictures show a piston I consider healthy and worthy of another year of use.  It is 10.5 to 1 compression.  Note some wear on the top land.  I thought this was a problem and was told that it is normal.

Stem diameter is 5.463 mm.

Thanks for the help.  I will try to pull the head off and measure the port area within a few weeks.
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wobblywalrus
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« Reply #2123 on: September 09, 2015, 12:57:06 AM »

I forgot the pictures.  Here they are.


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wobblywalrus
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« Reply #2124 on: September 12, 2015, 10:09:30 AM »

Enough concrete is poured for the floor of the shed annex to support the boat and trailer.  They got rolled there and I parked the truck, jacked it up, and took off the wheels.  Eight years of going to Bonneville have taken their toll.  Last year was the worst 'cause of all the water we had to drive through to get to the pits.  The entire front suspension needs to be taken apart and repainted, new hub assemblies, calipers, etc.  The rear needs to be done, too.  It takes lots of penetrating oil and propane heat to do simple disassembly jobs.  The Triumph build is on hold for a while.  I will be busy here. 


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wobblywalrus
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« Reply #2125 on: September 12, 2015, 11:56:27 PM »

The 2016 engine is modeled in PipeMax except for cam and horsepower data.  I had to guess at those.  The recommended header pipe OD is 1.519 to 1.644 inches for a 8,300 rpm power peak.  The OD is 1.488 for the original 2003 Triumph header pipes I used in Wales.  I need larger diameter headers for the Kodiak motor.

The OD is 1.580 plus or minus for this Arrow 2 into 1 header system.  Cascade Moto Classics sold it to me at their cost.  It was nice of them to do that.  It is on the street bike now and it will be tried on the dyno to see if it makes good power.  The plan is to make a megaphone to replace the Arrow muffler.

The OD is 1.680 for the original 2013 Triumph header pipe that came on the street bike.  These headers will be modified as needed and used with the Predator mufflers to make an "H" system for dyno tests.  The dyno tests will compare the 2 into 1 system against the H system.

The race bike is on the bench and I will take the head off to measure it before I fix the truck.  Pleasure before work.  Always a good philosophy.         


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wobblywalrus
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« Reply #2126 on: September 14, 2015, 11:53:40 PM »

The advance curves I use are the ones recommended by the person who sells me the cams.  Then, I advance or retard a bit to suit my particular engine and fuel.  The recommended high performance curve was a Stage 3 when these were programmed.  The Stage 4 is the Stage 3 plus 2 degrees and the Stage 4 is the Stage 3 plus 4 degrees.  I have a Stage 2 curve that is retarded from the Stage 3 one.  The additional curves with more advance were suitable when I was monkeying around with gasahols.  The ignition cutoff is 8,400 rpm with these modules.

The racing gasoline/nitropropane/toluene mix is a completely different animal, and especially so in a high compression air cooled engine.  In this case I want to retard from the gas curve.  I am ordering a Stage 4 curve as recommended by the outfit that developed the cams.  One more curve will be ordered that is Stage 4 minus 2 degrees, and another curve that is Stage 4 minus 4 degrees.  The ignition cutoff will be raised to 9,000 rpm with these modules.

We look at the dyno curves and I choose the most retarded module that gives good power.  The knock light is on the bike on the dyno and at Bonneville.  A red flickering light says it is time to back off on the throttle and go back to the pits to fit up a more retarded module.

Mike, I forgot to answer your question.  There were some problems and the shipper asked me to do some paperwork.  It was in English but it might as well been written in Rumanian.  I e-mailed my shipping agent who was paid to handle customs tasks and hinted that I am a dumb-as-a box-of-rocks motorcycle racer.  I suggested they figure this out.  A customs broker in Portland who was working for my shipping agent asked me to give him power of attorney.  I did.  About a week later the bike showed up at the house.  I do not have a clue as to what the problem was.  It is nice to have the bike back.

     


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wobblywalrus
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« Reply #2127 on: September 20, 2015, 10:29:26 PM »

The flaw in my bike design is the work I need to do to remove the cylinder head.  This is how far things need to be stripped to start to take the head off.  This is one reason why I like the BMST.  they have a thingy that sticks down into the spark plug hole and measures the displacement.  There is no need to take the head off in impound.



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Stainless1
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« Reply #2128 on: September 21, 2015, 10:27:52 AM »

The flaw in my bike design is the work I need to do to remove the cylinder head.  This is how far things need to be stripped to start to take the head off.  This is one reason why I like the BMST.  they have a thingy that sticks down into the spark plug hole and measures the displacement.  There is no need to take the head off in impound.



Yea, they've been using that thingy at SpeedWeek and WoS since it was invented about 15 years ago....  shocked
 cheers
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Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, MSA Bockscar Lakester with a little N20 
MSA Bockscar Lakester #1000 my fastest mile 245 and change, 84 ci turbobusa motor... but Corey's 233 MPH H/BFL record is still 3MPH faster than mine.
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« Reply #2129 on: September 21, 2015, 11:22:36 AM »

The flaw in my bike design is the work I need to do to remove the cylinder head.  This is how far things need to be stripped to start to take the head off.  This is one reason why I like the BMST.  they have a thingy that sticks down into the spark plug hole and measures the displacement.  There is no need to take the head off in impound.



Yea, they've been using that thingy at SpeedWeek and WoS since it was invented about 15 years ago....  shocked
 cheers



Not if your engine is a 2-stroke.   cry
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