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Author Topic: Team Go Dog, Go! Modified Partial Streamliners  (Read 1029939 times)

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Offline wobblywalrus

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Re: Team Go Dog, Go! Modified Partial Streamliners
« Reply #1635 on: March 30, 2014, 10:25:50 PM »
Observer, it is a goofy size.  This is an English bike and 73mm is almost directly equivalent to 2-7/8 inches. 

Mike, thanks for the compliment.  A fellow from Britain told me this is "colonial" engineering.   

The pressing did not go as planned.  I had the spacer a little bit cockeyed and it jammed in the collar.  The spacer heated up and expanded and the collar cooled and contracted by the time I got everything lined up.  The spacer was frozen tight in the collar.  It was time for Plan B.

The whole works, spacer, collar, and billet chunk were heated in the oven to 500 degrees again.  Aluminum expands 2.6 times more than Ti for every degree, so this heating reduced the amount of interference in the fit.   The parts were pressed together in the big vise, as seen in the pix.  It took several iterations to get the collar all of the way onto the shaft.  The collar and shaft assembly are cut out of the billet with a hole saw as shown in the second picture.

Offline wobblywalrus

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Re: Team Go Dog, Go! Modified Partial Streamliners
« Reply #1636 on: March 30, 2014, 10:31:39 PM »
The little hole in the billet alongside the big one is a path for chip exit.  It makes the hole saw cutting much easier.  There is less tendency for the chips to jam the saw in the hole.

The final step is to cut the outside diameter for the seal.  This must be done after fitting rather than before.  The fitting stretches and expands the collar.   

Offline wobblywalrus

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Re: Team Go Dog, Go! Modified Partial Streamliners
« Reply #1637 on: March 30, 2014, 10:40:13 PM »
All done.


Offline wobblywalrus

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Re: Team Go Dog, Go! Modified Partial Streamliners
« Reply #1638 on: March 31, 2014, 10:52:45 PM »
Saving for the trip to AUS means no significant money for addressing the Team Go Dog, Go! major problem.  This is lack of speed.  So, the next best thing is to look hip, cool, and stylish while going slow.  This ring held on with allen bolts covers up the ugly part of the front wheel hub that is exposed when the disc is removed.

Offline firemanjim

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Re: Team Go Dog, Go! Modified Partial Streamliners
« Reply #1639 on: March 31, 2014, 11:18:28 PM »
Wobbly, unless Triumph has changed something they are not using wideband sensors. My 1050 Tiger has an O2 sensor but it is only narrowband and tunes a very small area for EPA stuff.
Unless of course, you installed a wideband and are using it to adjust tune.
I assume you are using Tune ECU? Been playing with this for a number of years on a bunch of Triumphs. And needed to tune them on a dyno to get them spot on.
Bonneville 2001,2002,2003,2004,and NO stinking 2005,DLRA 2006, next?
Well,sure can't complain about 2008--6 records over 200 and 5 hats from Bonneville,Bubs, and El Mirage for the team!

Offline Koncretekid

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Re: Team Go Dog, Go! Modified Partial Streamliners
« Reply #1640 on: April 01, 2014, 12:24:17 PM »
Bo,
I believe front wheel only needs to have 25% open area.  Why not make discs that fit closely to spokes, fastened on one side to those screw holes with spacers between the discs to attach the off side?  I think you could go as large as 12" diameter and still be legal.  "Bacon Slicers"
We get too soon oldt, and too late schmart!
Life's uncertain - eat dessert first!

Offline wobblywalrus

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Re: Team Go Dog, Go! Modified Partial Streamliners
« Reply #1641 on: April 01, 2014, 10:25:53 PM »
Jim, I used Tune ECU.  I tried all sorts of different changes to the basic Triumph maps and came to the conclusion that Triumph knows what they are doing.  Then, I read the injector opening durations vs rpm and throttle opening on a bunch of their maps.  One seemed to match the mild increases in state of tune that I have.  I tried it and it works good.  My feeling is it is the map is close enough to the actual fuel needs that the narrowband sensor can adapt it.  No money at this time for dyno work.  That might change after I get back from AUS.  There are a bunch of fuel maps and ignition maps to make a single map package.  It sure is complicated for my little brain.  If I coulda known that EFI is the future I woulda smoked a lot fewer green cigarettes.

Tom, the next race is going to be on the other side of the world.  Pretty scary and I am not going to do too many different things.  Plans are to see how this thing handles in side winds with the back wheel blanked off.  The front might get that treatment if everything is OK.

Offline firemanjim

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Re: Team Go Dog, Go! Modified Partial Streamliners
« Reply #1642 on: April 01, 2014, 11:17:17 PM »
Recommend you invest in a wideband monitor as the narrow band one on your bike has very narrow range of adjustment up and down and only works in small are down low to keep bike within needed range in the EPA test area.
Pay me now or pay me later---
And I am hoping to head downunder again next year.
Bonneville 2001,2002,2003,2004,and NO stinking 2005,DLRA 2006, next?
Well,sure can't complain about 2008--6 records over 200 and 5 hats from Bonneville,Bubs, and El Mirage for the team!

Offline Koncretekid

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Re: Team Go Dog, Go! Modified Partial Streamliners
« Reply #1643 on: April 02, 2014, 08:53:07 AM »
Bo,
Does your system have data logging capability?  As I understand the ECUs used by the OEM manufacturers, they only involve the O2 sensor in cruising mode to obtain best fuel mileage in conformation with EPA guidelines.  At anything over 85% throttle position, the system goes open and takes the O2 sensor out of the equation.  At that point, the maps take over and set the pulse widths, ... period.  There is no control unless there are some max exhaust gas temperatures that shut it down (but I doubt it). Therefore, because Triumph very likely didn't test their bikes/motors at WFO throttle for 3 miles at 100 degrees F, nobody knows what the actual results will be.  I added some Innovate gauges with the Pocket Data Logger so that I can at least get actual temperatures and AFRs throughout the run.  With luck, I'll be able to make changes after the first run if things look dangerously hot or lean. I haven't even started the motor yet, so I can't tell you more than that. About $600 plus a lot of wiring, but motor failures are way more expensive than that.

With your experience, you might be able to read the spark plugs to make decisions. But then, can you change the maps to increase pulse widths or change the ignition timing at selected RPM?

Tom
« Last Edit: April 02, 2014, 08:55:20 AM by Koncretekid »
We get too soon oldt, and too late schmart!
Life's uncertain - eat dessert first!

Offline wobblywalrus

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Re: Team Go Dog, Go! Modified Partial Streamliners
« Reply #1644 on: April 03, 2014, 10:28:36 PM »
Jim, we are going to AUS to race in 2015, too.

Tom, right now my middle son and me are monkeying around with our street Triumphs.  The race bike has flat slides and they will stay on until I go to forced induction.  The objective is to gain some knowledge.  Right now the need to get the bike running and the AUS trip is most important.  The EFI project will wait until I get back.

We are trying to figure out where to ship the bike to and set up base camp.  Adelaide looks nice.  There are a lot of things to do there, it is on the ocean, and the cost of living is moderate.  It is the closest big city to Gairdner. 

Offline wobblywalrus

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Re: Team Go Dog, Go! Modified Partial Streamliners
« Reply #1645 on: April 03, 2014, 11:23:36 PM »
External threads were cut in tough material in the last posts.  Now it is time for internal threads.  There are three things I remember when starting out.  First, avoid internal threading if possible, fine threads will be easier to cut than coarse, and cut the threads first.  This way, if the tap breaks, there is less work invested in the part.

This is a little brake part, it is carbon steel, and it is badly pitted after seven trips to B'ville.  The metal used for the new one is structural ti.  It is plenty strong, weighs less, and is corrosion resistant.

This ti is plenty tough to tap.  I ask myself "how many threads do I need for this 8 mm dia by 1.25 mm pitch hole?"  Some nuts in the nut can with the same thread size tell me that 8 mm of internal threads works OK on a nut.  Cutting a limited number of threads puts less strain on the tap.  I will cut an 8mm threaded length.

The stock is chucked up and drilled with a 1/4-inch diameter hole 3/4 inches deep.  This drilled hole is too small in diameter to thread with a tap.  An aluminum disk is also drilled with the 1/4 inch drill.  It is carefully and slowly tapped.  This soft material can be tapped if the pilot hole is slightly small.

Now I measure the diameter of the threaded hole in the aluminum.  It is 0.259 inches.  Then, I add 0.01 mm to this and it is 0.263 inches.  This will be my pilot hole size.
 

Offline wobblywalrus

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Re: Team Go Dog, Go! Modified Partial Streamliners
« Reply #1646 on: April 03, 2014, 11:42:12 PM »
A "G" drill has a 0.261 diameter.  A little small, but OK if this hole was in less tough materials.  A 17/64 drill has a 0.266 diameter.  A bit on the big side.  It would be the chosen size for a tap drill based on my prior experience with this tough stuff.  This is a lathe job so I can be precise and I grind a little boring bar out of a tool bit blank.  It is a good quality high speed steel bit and it will cut ti OK.   A mark is made on the bit.  It is 8mm inside of the inner edge of the cutting prong.

The hole is bored to size and the inner end of the hole is enlarged to 8 mm diameter.  An 8 mm long section of the bore near the end is kept at 0.263 inches diameter.  The mark comes in handy now.  The tap will cut threads on this 8 mm long section and then the tip will move into a clear area.  This reduces the number of threads that need to be cut and the stress on the tap.  An air grinder bit with a ball shaped cutter on the tip is used to do this on non-lathe jobs.

Offline wobblywalrus

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Re: Team Go Dog, Go! Modified Partial Streamliners
« Reply #1647 on: April 03, 2014, 11:53:54 PM »
I buy a new high quality and and lube it with anti-seize.  The tap is lined up with the tail stock so it is square with the work.  Tapping starts.  Ti makes long chips so I back the tap off every 1.4 turn or so to break the chips.  The tail stock is used to keep the tap in line.  It should not be used tp put driving pressure on the tap.

The flippin' tap seizes up on the last thread and it snaps.  I look in the tap box to see if I have any more.  Lo and behold.  There is a spiral flute tap I ordered and used for another tough-metal job a few years ago.  I forgot I had it.  Always use specialty taps made for ti when tapping it.  Do not use hardware store style straight flute taps.       

Offline wobblywalrus

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Re: Team Go Dog, Go! Modified Partial Streamliners
« Reply #1648 on: April 03, 2014, 11:59:05 PM »
Ti was losing its appeal so I made the little guy out of 304 stainless.  It is another tough metal but not as nasty as 6Al-4V ti.  The old part had an allen head.  I could not make that so I put a hex on it. 

Offline Freud

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Re: Team Go Dog, Go! Modified Partial Streamliners
« Reply #1649 on: April 07, 2014, 12:10:41 AM »
You are one dedicated hermit.

FREUD
Since '63