UK Lakester build G/GL

[Lemming Motors]

Ed, the starting place is a larger driver so that should be covered if 6 foot and change and two hundred and thirty ish pounds counts?

Sumner; yes to adjustable pedals but my steering will be fixed; its going to have manual shift so that will be placed for my convenience which limits the driver adjustability - maybe a removable seat back that re-bolts in with steel spacers to the roll structure - something to noodle.
I read you site cover to cover a couple of years ago - sorry, I am not aware of why it isn't on the salt but given the work done it deserves to be.

[RidgeRunner]

     Two thirty ish is just about where I started, another twenty ish crept in from somewhere before we got the car down a course.  6 foot would have covered me well, the weight must have come from the shrinking result of the natural aging process..............   

     All my best for you to stay safe, have fun, and go fast 

           Ed

[Lemming Motors]

A small amount of progress on the roll structure; harness mounts and steering column mocked up to sort out the location of all the bits (including the fleshy ones) in the cockpit area.

[Lemming Motors]

Question: I understand the gas pedal needs to be a positive return (i.e. a toe strap) but how does that work with regard to the throttle cables - normally the butterflies pull closed with spring tension at the throttle bodies (I'm running n.a.). Now I am wondering if it is intended to mean that one cable pulls the butterfly open and the other cable is a return to pull it closed??

With a toe strap all I am doing is bring the gas pedal back to the start position but with Bowden cables this has no positive action closing the butterflies. Should I be thinking push / pull cables? Why am I thinking this now - I am sorting out the pedal assembly in the cockpit and am making the gas pedal box bespoke.

Rule 3.J
Twin throttle cables / springs  .....
.....with two (2) adequate return springs. There shall be a positive stop to prevent sticking in ‘over centre’ position.
Accelerator toe straps are required except on OEM cable or hydraulic throttles. 

[Lemming Motors]

Ultimately form will follow function but here is a 1:18 scale concept model (with the SoCal Lakester for perspective) for general amusement.

I am sure it will look nothing like this in 12 or so months time but I can sit this on my desk to remind me why I go to work and travel occasionally to the US for business parts buying trips.

[Stainless1]

We use a Morse Cable for throttle, looks like this...
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/15706/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710779705&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=39714413703&CATCI=pla-457013475003&CATARGETID=230006180040357463&cadevice=c&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzaiumLuS3QIVnbjACh1s4gISEAQYASABEgJGzPD_BwE

Lord what a long link... they are used on outboard motors for steering among lots of other uses.  Shifter cable is another.
They are made to length so you can get what you need, it might uncomplicate your throttle

[manta22]

Lemming;

Yes, you will need a push-pull control cable for your throttle, a Bowden cable will not meet the rule book requirements. I'd recommend contacting these guys: 

http://www.controlcables.com/push-pull-cables/

They can supply any length you want as well as various choices of end fittings. Tell them that it is for a throttle cable and they will suggest a low-friction cable. To measure your length, use a rope or garden hose to route where the cable will run and then measure that lying out straight. Keep the bends as large a radius as possible and secure the cable at intervals with clamps so that the friction will be lower and lost motion will be small.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

[Lemming Motors]

Thanks guys

I have used Morse cables when I did bespoke shift mechanism for the Europa.

[kiwi belly tank]

A Bowden type cable is legal, it's recommended that you don't use a plastic lined type for obvious reasons. Morse type cables can be very draggy when the engine is two city blocks behind you due to the length & bends making it hard to get good throttle response.
Another option is a clutch master/slave cyl hydraulic setup or you can buy a system for about $400us ready to go.
  Sid.

[manta22]

Sid & Lemming;

The problem with hydraulic throttle setups is that the hydraulic fluid expands and contracts as its temperature changes. It is hard to set the stops unless the temperature is constant.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

[Lemming Motors]

Thanks everyone.

I just re-read the text (rule 3.J) in the actual rulebook. I have gone through the rule book and transcribed (read typed) out all the sections relevant to me and made notes so that I can work on the vehicle by 'area'. For some reason I had typed out rule 3.J in such a way that in it reads two throttle cables - I am taking the word 'redundant' literally to mean two cables but if its a morse type push / pull does it really need two of these cables?.

Does RTFM translate?

[manta22]

Lemming;

One push-pull control cable.

Two return springs.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

[Lemming Motors]

Throttle cable on order (one of, push pull) so the throttle assembly will have to wait.

In the mean time I thought it worthwhile to line out the roll structure to ensure that final placement of the contents (with fire suit and harness, neck restraint, boots, gloves, helmet etc on) is as restrictive as it will be in life; having gaps between the tubes does allow bits to ooze out and make it feel larger than it really is.

2mm aluminium on top of the full size roll structure tubing used to reinforce the seating area (as seen in previous pics).

[Lemming Motors]

The aluminium still has its plastic sheet covering and not all the locating fixtures are installed yet. The two 1/2" bolts are the lower seat belt mount points and neatly line up with bum rather than bone.