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Author Topic: INDIAN 741 Supercharged...See you in 2011  (Read 188819 times)
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charlie101
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Age: 54
Location: Sweden, way up north
Posts: 128


Indian 101 buff




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« Reply #300 on: June 05, 2010, 07:25:10 PM »

Regarding you didn't misplace your tin foil helmet, it has to be laddersteps on the next project intercontinal spaceship delivery rocket, Denmark-Bonneville! afro
« Last Edit: June 05, 2010, 07:55:08 PM by charlie101 » Logged
octane
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Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Posts: 515


The INDIAN "Saltcracker" 650 A-VBF




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« Reply #301 on: June 06, 2010, 05:57:59 AM »



you're building a shredder, in case the missus finds your receipts?
LOL !!!

No missus at the moment.
Been there , done that.
I've turned into a sorry, lonely, old fart
with a severe allergy caused by the sheer notion that some other person
should have any saying whatsoever on what I do, how I do it, how much time I spend on it, and how much money I spend on it



Regarding you didn't misplace your tin foil helmet, it has to be laddersteps on the next project intercontinal spaceship delivery rocket, Denmark-Bonneville! afro
LOL !
Yeah: I'm working on a old-fart propelled rocket to get me to Bonneville:



Rollers for an external wheel based starter?

Pieces for the remote starter.

Tom G.
Bbarn and Tom, you're both right and I'm a generous guy
.-)
so both of you; please PM me, stating your size, color preference and a mail address
and I'll send them right away ( may not have the right size, but we'll sort that )

More on the starter later.
« Last Edit: June 06, 2010, 06:48:51 AM by octane » Logged

"A designer knows he has achieved perfection
not when there is nothing left to add
but when there is nothing left to take away"

Antoine de Saint-Exupery
octane
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Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Posts: 515


The INDIAN "Saltcracker" 650 A-VBF




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« Reply #302 on: June 06, 2010, 06:16:28 AM »

Working yesterday but took a brake to receive the parts made by my friend Jakob



New spacers , "bearing-adaptors" etc. for the rear wheel.
Old axle in the background , new considerably stronger one up front.
Wouldn't really know what kind of steel to use for such an application,
but my friend Jonny came to my rescue as he donated an axle off
some rather obese big heavy Harley Davidson
 (I'm not a HD-guy so I forgot which...but it's BIG ).
That has got to be strong enough for my 340 pound bike.
We shaved it a little on the lathe to make it fit here.

Just need to make a thread for the nut on the axle.

BTW , quite irrelevant for this thread,
but hell, we all like interesting cars...don't we;
he delivered the parts in his brilliant old Austin Healey





Love it !
 Nicely rebuild, but not "chrome'ly" overdone.
The lower 5 inches of the car was rusted away when he got it
and he painstakenly rebuild it without buying any new body parts.
Yeah: took him a couple of years.



Gotta go back to work ( real work...make money-work... now.
« Last Edit: June 06, 2010, 06:19:42 AM by octane » Logged

"A designer knows he has achieved perfection
not when there is nothing left to add
but when there is nothing left to take away"

Antoine de Saint-Exupery
oz
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Location: Leighton Buzzard GB
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Geordie Power.




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« Reply #303 on: June 06, 2010, 07:12:20 AM »

Cool aerodynamics it may catch on!!

Desperate would wear it thats for sure.

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Newcastle born and bred a City built on Coal and Steel and a people built of stronger stuff
charlie101
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Location: Sweden, way up north
Posts: 128


Indian 101 buff




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« Reply #304 on: June 06, 2010, 04:24:49 PM »

I see! That belgian Tintin version 2:1. This was you and your friends testing edition 1:2 here? I got a pic. of version 1:0, but you wouldn't like to share that! However I show a picture of another test crew. Now git back in order!


* hybrid.jpg (58.97 KB, 561x380 - viewed 223 times.)

* tat2ed_pig.jpg (30.14 KB, 600x398 - viewed 249 times.)

* Back in order!.jpg (31.94 KB, 368x422 - viewed 223 times.)
« Last Edit: June 06, 2010, 07:38:24 PM by charlie101 » Logged
oz
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Location: Leighton Buzzard GB
Posts: 583


Geordie Power.




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« Reply #305 on: June 07, 2010, 01:55:07 PM »

Thats the purple helmets display team in the top picture if I am not mistaken.

may need more back pressure on the silencer!!

I aint seen that lot in years real funny displays all done on old Honda C50s C70s C90s Cool

http://www.sheepskullenduroriders.com/

mad dudes

TTFN
« Last Edit: June 07, 2010, 02:01:15 PM by oz » Logged

Newcastle born and bred a City built on Coal and Steel and a people built of stronger stuff
octane
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Age: 57
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Posts: 515


The INDIAN "Saltcracker" 650 A-VBF




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« Reply #306 on: June 14, 2010, 01:38:32 PM »

Sorry: double-post.
« Last Edit: June 14, 2010, 01:42:32 PM by octane » Logged

"A designer knows he has achieved perfection
not when there is nothing left to add
but when there is nothing left to take away"

Antoine de Saint-Exupery
octane
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Age: 57
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Posts: 515


The INDIAN "Saltcracker" 650 A-VBF




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« Reply #307 on: June 14, 2010, 01:41:45 PM »

I'm still working like a mad-man ( real make-money-work ) weekends and all,
so haven't been able to do much on the bike.
A few later night hours is all.

But here's a short update to let you know that I haven't sunken into the ground.

Took the carb apart as it dawned to me that I probably forgot to drain
it after a start-up attempt looooooong ago.
Methanol is supposed to be quite aggressive so I was a bit worried:
...bad news: yep, I forgot to do it
...good news: no damage apart from a bit of corrosion in the bottom of the float bowl

Weird: when putting it back together the rubber-seal between the float-chamber and the bottom-piece
was too small...must be the methanol that made it scrink Huh

The trick is to immense it in WD-40.
Hence the yellow container with the seal emmenced.



Yep: WD-40 will make it swell up.

I know from a test I did once when a discussion came up
about using WD-40 to loosen up a brake-piston if stuck in the caliber.

NOT a good idea as the test shows:
The WD-40 will make it a LOT harder to get the stuck piston loose:

Honda GL1000 front brake seal :



...after a few hours in WD-40:



...and after a couple of days:



Got the carb together all right.


Made an "inner fender" / splash guard.
Should have a double-curvature at the rear.
Whacked it in the blindingly naive hope that I could actually do that



BAM...BAM....BAM...BAM.....I don't need no stinking english-wheel...WHACK....WHACK....yes I do!!!!
Whack-job.
Maybe I should invest in some proper tools instead of delude myself
that it can be done with a plastic-tip hammer and a tiny anvil.

Never mind for now. It'll work:



...will go in here:




Got the parts ready for the roller-starter:



...One piece of scrap aluminum
...Two pieces of POM Delrin
bought cheaply from the local plastic whole sale dealers cut-off-pieces heap.
It's an amazing material.
The rollers will be shaved 'smooth' at each end,
and stuck directly into corrosponding holes in the Delrin , which can easily
act as 'bearings' for the rollers on each side.
...One Mitsubishi starter from the auto junk yard

Took the starter to pieces to remove the 'arm' from the solenoid to the cog-wheel



..as the starter will be connected directly:   cog-wheel--axle-->roller,
and as the bike starts, the cog-wheel will run for a short while freely ( not dragging the starter-motor)
by means of the over-running clutch ( blue arrow ) on which the cogwheel is attached.

More on all that later.
« Last Edit: June 14, 2010, 02:01:32 PM by octane » Logged

"A designer knows he has achieved perfection
not when there is nothing left to add
but when there is nothing left to take away"

Antoine de Saint-Exupery
wobblywalrus
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« Reply #308 on: June 16, 2010, 12:02:21 AM »

Octane, the "Shaping Aluminum with Hand Tools" DVD at www.covell.biz will show you how to beat that fender.  One thing I learned is to pound the fender out of an oversize piece and to trim it to its final size after the shape is OK.  Have fun.
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charlie101
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Posts: 128


Indian 101 buff




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« Reply #309 on: June 17, 2010, 12:11:20 AM »

It will be interesting to follow your build of the roller starter. I'm exactly where you are at the pictures in my build, aquired a pile of almost all parts but is having problem to figure how to connect the starter clutch to a chain sprocket in a reliable way.  It seems easier to use a bike starter motors as there is several that already is using chain drives but I'm afraid the starters are expensive and too weak, and car starters are so much easier and cheaper to get. It would be equally interesting to see what starters you other followers have cobbled up.
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ironwigwam
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Location: Glenmoore, Pa. Lakeview, MN,
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« Reply #310 on: June 17, 2010, 06:43:13 AM »

Lars,
   Why not drive the starter on the engine drive shaft as I do on the streamliner? It just takes a nut welded to a plate and bolted to your belt pulley? The sprag on the starter on the transmission is an expensive and weak link on the electric starter chiefs. Moen may have one down the street from you?
    Rocky
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grumm441
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Location: Preston, Formally Australia's car theft capitol. Still a tidy town
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HK 327


WWW

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« Reply #311 on: June 18, 2010, 01:01:27 AM »

The new workshop I am working in just purchased a thing called an easystarter
It looks like your usual roller race bike starter, but is powered by a 2400 watt angle grinder
Plugs into the power point
Used it twice yesterday, once on a CRF250 and next on 750 Bonneville
Worked a treat

When we were at Lake Gairdiner this year, John Trease from Harley Motorcycle Engineering in Melbourne had something similar, but powered by two 2400 watt angle grinders. Something to do with the hi comp Vincent Comet that was with him on the lake.
He had a honda generator in his pickup. Plugin, press button and woo hoo
G
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Chief Motorcycle Steward Dry Lakes Racers Australia Inc
Still with no stars
I build it, Goggles tries his hardest to break it
octane
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Age: 57
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Posts: 515


The INDIAN "Saltcracker" 650 A-VBF




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« Reply #312 on: June 18, 2010, 05:23:56 AM »

Octane, the "Shaping Aluminum with Hand Tools" DVD at www.covell.biz will show you how to beat that fender.  One thing I learned is to pound the fender out of an oversize piece and to trim it to its final size after the shape is OK.  Have fun.
I will ! Thank you!

It will be interesting to follow your build of the roller starter. I'm exactly where you are at the pictures in my build, aquired a pile of almost all parts but is having problem to figure how to connect the starter clutch to a chain sprocket in a reliable way.  It seems easier to use a bike starter motors as there is several that already is using chain drives but I'm afraid the starters are expensive and too weak, and car starters are so much easier and cheaper to get. It would be equally interesting to see what starters you other followers have cobbled up.
Mine won't use a chain sprocket, but please see below where I post
pictures of those I found in my hunt for starter-ideas ( that I never folloewed..ha ha)

Lars,
   Why not drive the starter on the engine drive shaft as I do on the streamliner? It just takes a nut welded to a plate and bolted to your belt pulley?

Mostly because that would require some sort of transmission/reduction-gear between the starter and the drive,
to get enough torque / lower RPM from the cheapo car-starter.
Too complicated for a simple guy like me.






The new workshop I am working in just purchased a thing called an easystarter
It looks like your usual roller race bike starter, but is powered by a 2400 watt angle grinder
Plugs into the power point
Used it twice yesterday, once on a CRF250 and next on 750 Bonneville
Worked a treat
Something like this ?:



Quote
When we were at Lake Gairdiner this year, John Trease from Harley Motorcycle Engineering in Melbourne had something similar, but powered by two 2400 watt angle grinders. Something to do with the hi comp Vincent Comet that was with him on the lake.
He had a honda generator in his pickup. Plugin, press button and woo hoo
G

Yep that would work,
but I would prefer to have a 12 V running on a battery.



Here's a few other variations. Some are apparently home-made,
others are some you can buy. The really nice ones are terribly expensive...up to 3.000$US.













« Last Edit: June 18, 2010, 05:27:50 AM by octane » Logged

"A designer knows he has achieved perfection
not when there is nothing left to add
but when there is nothing left to take away"

Antoine de Saint-Exupery
SlyOneJr
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Age: 48
Location: Charlotte North Carolina
Posts: 60




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« Reply #313 on: June 18, 2010, 08:46:44 AM »

Just for an idea, a good friend of mine has a H2 powered kart, and he made a rig that holds the chassis off of the ground a couple of inches, and uses and old horizontal shaft Honda go kart motor to spin another kart wheel mounted in a bearing to spin backwards against the tire on the kart, using belt drive and a tensioner assembly off of the bottom of the deck of a lawnmower, just pull the handle when the Honda motor running, the wheel on the starter starts turning, wait until the wheels on the kart get going, and drop the clutch in 2nd gear. Fires up the motor with no problems. I will try to get a few pictures of his "Kart Starter" the next time that I am over there and post them on here if anyone is interested.

Jeff
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New Guy building a L/Gas Lakester
Ninja 250 powered Lakester for ECTA meets
saltwheels262
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Posts: 919


LTA 7/2013




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« Reply #314 on: June 19, 2010, 08:49:15 AM »

i use a dodge starter motor. powered
by 2 -12 volt batts.(24 volt)

if you go that route, put two handles on it.

maybe my pm didn't go through.
let me know if anything besides $ is needed for bub.

franey
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bub '07 - 140.293 a/pg   120" crate street mill      
max 10/07 - a/pf   d license
bub '08 - 153.697 a/pf   pump gas
bub '09 - 156.377 aps/pf  ran out of gear
lta  '10 - 158.208  2 much gear 2x
bub '10 - 158.100  sweetooth gear
lta  7/11 -163.389  7/17/11; 3 run avg.-162.450
                probably it for that mill, as is.
ohio - (1) 185.076 w/#684                                 
          (2) 182.xxx w/20+ mph winds
lta  9/12  -148mph  in 3rd gear w/new #262 ( couldn't
                pull the rear gear in 4 much less 5 )
ohio - (4)  -153.x~in 4th.(+4 @the rear & leaving 1k+
      rpm on the table)

" it's not as easy as it looks. "
                            - franey  8/2007
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