Electric Water Pumps?

[MAZDA1807]

What if you slow the pump down by using a different pully?

[McRat]

It's driven off the cam with a helical cut gear, so regearing it is major undertaking.  Cam gear is critical, so it can't be altered.

Strange thing about Duramaxes is they are built more race engines than industrial devices.  Gear driven cam, fully counterweighted forged nitrated crank, piston crown oil cooling jets (internally), solid roller cam, 4v per cyl, aluminum heads, intercooled variable nozzle turbocharger with watercooling, 6 head bolts per cylinder, etc.  Just changing the factory tune will double the engine output.  But the cooling system isn't very good even at stock power levels for some reason. 

[SPARKY]

I would be building me a heat exchanger in the bed and be putting much cooler  water through the block---also you can almost remove as much heat with oil as you can with water.

[McRat]

I would be building me a heat exchanger in the bed and be putting much cooler  water through the block---also you can almost remove as much heat with oil as you can with water.

Good idea!

[MAZDA1807]

Are you (McRat) running a thermostat?  If you are I would recommend slowing the flow down by a restrictor of some sort.  If you are not, you might want to think about putting it back in.  What i've had a problem with is that the water moves too fast and doesn't have enough time to cool off in the radiator, therefore slowing the flow down most likley will help as it did my car.                Peter

[McRat]

Yup, running factory thermostats.

[Racerboy]

Slowing down the water that goes through the engine will help it can pick up the heat . If the water moves to fast it won't pick up the heat and cool the metal surface. I am going to put a water shut off valve like I have on the water main going into the house on the return line to the water tank. That way I can control and slow down the amount of water returned to the tank and it will make pressure in the system also. This is something that we did with our drag cars in the past. Also if you run a water tank make sure that it has baffles and that helps also.  All of this is my 2 cents from an old fart anyway.

[MAZDA1807]

Slowing down the water that goes through the engine will help it can pick up the heat . If the water moves to fast it won't pick up the heat and cool the metal surface. I am going to put a water shut off valve like I have on the water main going into the house on the return line to the water tank. That way I can control and slow down the amount of water returned to the tank and it will make pressure in the system also. This is something that we did with our drag cars in the past. Also if you run a water tank make sure that it has baffles and that helps also.  All of this is my 2 cents from an old fart anyway.

McRat, I also agree with Racerboy about slowing down the water.  Maybee you should try a smaller orifice then the stock thermostat.  It should help with the over-heating problem, being as you are spinning the engine faster that stock.

[dwarner]

Instead of a manual valve how about a thermostat controlled switch that starts and stops the pump at whatever temp you want? They are available from Grainger.

DW

[MAZDA1807]

Instead of a manual valve how about a thermostat controlled switch that starts and stops the pump at whatever temp you want? They are available from Grainger.

DW

Thatys another good idea.                Peter

[SPARKY]

The tech at Stewart says slowing down has nothing to do with amt of heat transferd---the restrictions raise PRESSURE and lets it stay LIQUID instead of turning to STEAM---read GH testmony---if it stays liquid---it will carry off the heat no matter what the speed---if it is slowed it might contain more btus for a given volume up to boiling

[MAZDA1807]

The tech at Stewart says slowing down has nothing to do with amt of heat transferd---the restrictions raise PRESSURE and lets it stay LIQUID instead of turning to STEAM---read GH testmony---if it stays liquid---it will carry off the heat no matter what the speed---if it is slowed it might contain more btus for a given volume up to boiling

Presicelslty, so slowing down the flow of coolant will transfer the heat better.     
                                                      Peter

[MAZDA1807]

The tech at Stewart says slowing down has nothing to do with amt of heat transferd---the restrictions raise PRESSURE and lets it stay LIQUID instead of turning to STEAM---read GH testmony---if it stays liquid---it will carry off the heat no matter what the speed---if it is slowed it might contain more btus for a given volume up to boiling

 slowing down the fluid transfer would be a restriction, no?

[SPARKY]

peter---the water speed has very little to do with how much heat leaves the metal---faster is generally better if the pressure is the same---gives you a greater temp diff, which lets you remove more from the metal---something called Delta T or something. 

[Sumner]

peter---the water speed has very little to do with how much heat leaves the metal---faster is generally better if the pressure is the same---gives you a greater temp diff, which lets you remove more from the metal---something called Delta T or something. 

I side totally with Sparky on this and is what I've read.  Slowing the water down is not the way to go, but this subject is like religion, politics and chevy vs. ford, so I'm not going to try and convince anyone.  I do know that if I burn my hand I would rather have faster cold water running over it vs. slower water and know that if I want to cool something the faster the water flows over it (same temp water) the faster it is going to cool down.

Mike and sparky are right about the pressure and the steam pockets.

Now if the water pump is driven faster than it's design speed and cavitates then it needs to be slowed down.

 

c ya,

Sum