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Author Topic: turbo motor build  (Read 47855 times)
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Dr Goggles
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« Reply #45 on: January 31, 2009, 04:40:02 PM »

Hope that it doesn’t end up biting me in the end.


I take it you mean "bottom end" grin
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« Reply #46 on: February 11, 2009, 08:21:03 PM »


I have been debating with myself the last few weeks on if I should the keep and use the Falicon rods or sell them and pony some more coin for Crower or Carrillo but it looks like the Carrillo rods won as they are on the way and should be here in a week.

Also have JE turbo pistons, tool pins, manual cam adjuster and main studs coming as well.


Originally I wasnt going to do anything to the clutch but I found this used and was made an offer I couldnt refuse. More importantly I met someone relatively close that has the answers to the questions about details of high HP motor assembly. I have found is one thing to put a stock motor back together using the manual and original parts....it is quite another when very few of the parts going on a build came from the manufacture or even existed on the stock mill and unfortunately many of the aftermarket parts have s*itty install instructions. .

This is a billet basket and billet MTC hub....they say it will handle way more HP then stock.....it seems really nice but in truth dont think I needed it.




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"Sometimes it is impossible to deal with her, but most of the time she is very sweet, and if you caress her properly she will sing beautifully."
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(when Im not working on the car, I am ususally playing classical guitar)
donpearsall
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« Reply #47 on: February 11, 2009, 08:41:40 PM »

Jonny, I have Falicon rods in my 'Busa. I have run it for 4 seasons now over 500hp at times. No loud noises so far.
Don
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John Noonan
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« Reply #48 on: February 11, 2009, 08:43:36 PM »


I have been debating with myself the last few weeks on if I should the keep and use the Falicon rods or sell them and pony some more coin for Crower or Carrillo but it looks like the Carrillo rods won as they are on the way and should be here in a week.

Also have JE turbo pistons, tool pins, manual cam adjuster and main studs coming as well.


Originally I wasnt going to do anything to the clutch but I found this used and was made an offer I couldnt refuse. More importantly I met someone relatively close that has the answers to the questions about details of high HP motor assembly. I have found is one thing to put a stock motor back together using the manual and original parts....it is quite another when very few of the parts going on a build came from the manufacture or even existed on the stock mill and unfortunately many of the aftermarket parts have s*itty install instructions. .

This is a billet basket and billet MTC hub....they say it will handle way more HP then stock.....it seems really nice but in truth dont think I needed it.






JH,

The basket is a nice slice of insurance and the inner is not needed however if also running a lock up will be nice, the Carrillo rods are good just over priced, I wish I had mine in stock as you would have had saved a few big bucks.

Take care,

John
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Stainless1
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« Reply #49 on: February 11, 2009, 08:46:10 PM »

JNuts, oil pump... you said

 
By recommendation I am opting to not use the high volume oil pump and regulator valve.

   

Were you thinking aftermarket pump?  I would suggest considering the HV gear for your stock pump as well as checking the pump clearances.  You will really need all the oil pressure and volume you can get.  At the 4 when your pressure has dropped to 25 and you are still WOT you will probably wish you had the HV gear....  Just a thought...  You don't necessarily need a different regulator but the HV pump is probably a must for high HP NA or turbo...  undecided  Also run it at the top of the glass or about 1/2 qt over.
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Stainless
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MSA Bockscar Lakester #1000 my fastest mile 245 and change, 84 ci turbobusa motor... but Corey's 233 MPH H/BFL record is still 3MPH faster than mine.
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« Reply #50 on: February 12, 2009, 03:46:33 PM »

Stainless why would oil pressure drop at the 4 ?? is it realy a pressure/volume thing or is the oil not at the pickup Huh?
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Jonny Hotnuts
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« Reply #51 on: February 12, 2009, 06:19:15 PM »

Another problem that I have not seen discussed regarding the high volume/ high pressure set up is that the pressure created by the high pressure setup is higher then the bypass limit on the Suzuki filter.

This means you engine is running unfiltered when running pressures this high.

Someone tell me I am wrong.
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"Sometimes it is impossible to deal with her, but most of the time she is very sweet, and if you caress her properly she will sing beautifully."
*Andres Segovia
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Stainless1
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« Reply #52 on: February 12, 2009, 10:26:45 PM »

Maj, don't know for sure but our data showed decreasing oil pressure after WOT for 30 seconds with the busa, we changed to the high volume gear, saw less drop.  Oil pressure was also 15 at idle after the run, 23 with the HV.  Don't know if the oil thinned or had less at the pick up.  We usually run extra oil in them to try to ensure some is always in the sump. 
I was not recommending higher pressure, just more volume. 
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Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, MSA Bockscar Lakester with a little N20 
MSA Bockscar Lakester #1000 my fastest mile 245 and change, 84 ci turbobusa motor... but Corey's 233 MPH H/BFL record is still 3MPH faster than mine.
McRat
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« Reply #53 on: February 12, 2009, 11:50:20 PM »

I routinely see oil pressure drop on the tuned-up diesels due to oil temp.  We can actually use it as a ghetto pyrometer when towing up long grades.
Engines with oil-cooled turbochargers or engines with piston squirters are very susceptable to oil thinning from temp, even though water temps are OK.

I'd suggest first trying a single grade racing oil as the cheap fix, like 50wt or higher.  But the best answer is an oil cooler.
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Stainless1
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« Reply #54 on: February 13, 2009, 09:12:01 AM »

McR, the busa motor definitely has squirters and an oil cooler.  And I suspect thinning is responsible for the drop, I would recommend as much oil volume as you can get...  We run 15/50 Top 1 Synthetic....

Jason and John, you don't need to reveal any secrets, are you guys using stock or enhanced oil volume?
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Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, MSA Bockscar Lakester with a little N20 
MSA Bockscar Lakester #1000 my fastest mile 245 and change, 84 ci turbobusa motor... but Corey's 233 MPH H/BFL record is still 3MPH faster than mine.
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« Reply #55 on: February 13, 2009, 05:24:58 PM »

Thanks Stainless,
I knew idle pressures are frightening when hot, common trick is keep the idle speed up .

I wonder if the std pressure relieve valve is only able to maintain pressure at a given level in hot oil, and cold oil pressure overwhelming the valve to an artificialy high pressure ?

JH  i don't think there is a pressure relieve in the filter, but i'm curious now and will go cut one up to be sure.



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McRat
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« Reply #56 on: February 13, 2009, 06:25:05 PM »

A big problem if you have oil squirters is that as you thin the oil from temp, the piston temps climb very fast.  You get the triple-whammy of hot oil not being as effective for cooling, combined with lower pressure putting less oil on target, combined with lesser degrees of crankshaft rotation under cooling.  It's part of what killed our engine.  Water temp fine, but pistons overheated.

Low pressure to bearings will reduce engine lifespan.   Low pressure to oil squirters can stop the engine instantly.
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saltfever
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« Reply #57 on: February 13, 2009, 11:02:53 PM »

I'm looking to adapt squirters to an SBC. Are the Busa squirters a seperate fitting and part number that could be purchased seperately. Anybody know a source for SBC squirters or a way to adapt something?  TIA.  smiley
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McRat
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« Reply #58 on: February 13, 2009, 11:16:02 PM »

I'm looking to adapt squirters to an SBC. Are the Busa squirters a seperate fitting and part number that could be purchased seperately. Anybody know a source for SBC squirters or a way to adapt something?  TIA.  smiley

Nearly all the late model diesels use them, also the Gen IV? SBC in the ZR1 and CTS-V have them, which might be close in geometry to what you need.

Next time I have the pan off, I'll take some pictures of how they set it up a Duramax diesel.  One feature will be different, the pistons have an internal "racetrack" cast inside them so the oil flows inside the piston crown.  I still haven't figured out how they cast that.
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saltfever
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« Reply #59 on: February 13, 2009, 11:45:06 PM »

Thanks for the reply, Pat.  I have a '06 Duramax and I just got around to ordering all manuals last week. There will probably be a picture of the squirters in the engine assembly manual and I'll look for it. Good info about the other Chevy blocks . . . many thanks for your ideas. cool
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