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Author Topic: turbo motor build  (Read 47854 times)
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fredvance
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« Reply #30 on: January 08, 2009, 06:38:25 PM »

I am definitely going to make one of those, i've got a couple of old engine stands that will do just fine. Last year we were either wallowing around on the floor or wrestling the motor around on a work bench that was about a foot too tall. Not a lot of fun for a couple of old guys tongue
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WORLDS FASTEST PRODUCTION MOTORCYCLE 213.470
Vance&Forstall Racing
WOS 2011 235+MPH
Engine by Knecum, Tuned by Johnny Cheese.
Sponsers Catalyst Composites, Johnny Cheese Perf, Knecum Racing Engines, Murray Headers, Carpenter Racing
Jonny Hotnuts
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« Reply #31 on: January 08, 2009, 07:53:03 PM »

I must say its much better to get it off the floor. I had always intended to do something to get it off the ground but couldnt really decide on what.

Here is a pic with more stuff off the motor.....clutch, oil pump, pistions, GPS, cam chain, starter clutch......



Biggest problem today......finding where I put my 30 MM impact socket to get the clutch nut off.
I purchased one last year to install a modded GPS on the 1507 motor but hadnít see it sense.

Turns out it was in an old box with a bunch of other non related stuff. It is a miracle that I was able to find it at all.

I was worried that getting the piston pins out would be difficult. They came out way easier than I remember on other motors.

So far taking the motor apart has been very straightforward....but thank god for the manual!



Some parts layed out....I have 3 other boards that I keep parts grouped by type or location.

Hopefully getting it back together will go smooth.
« Last Edit: January 08, 2009, 07:57:35 PM by Jonny Hotnuts » Logged

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"Sometimes it is impossible to deal with her, but most of the time she is very sweet, and if you caress her properly she will sing beautifully."
*Andres Segovia
(when Im not working on the car, I am ususally playing classical guitar)
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« Reply #32 on: January 10, 2009, 11:37:36 AM »

Jh -I don't know that much about the turbo busa builds but I am wondering if anyone else has run that turbo on a busa motor with success?
The reason I ask is that a friend of mine is a master power dealer and he ran that turbo for 2 years on a 2 ltr. mitsu like I have. It lasted well for a plain bearing turbo driven on the street at high boost but they are very laggie(slow to spool) and don't make very good power for the size they are. He made something like 700 allwheel hp with it maxed out. It is an old design wheel.
There are alot of better turbos out there at this time.

And as I said I don't know busa engine characteristics but that turbo is way to small on a mitsu to try and run very aggressive cams due to a lack of exhaust flow which creates reversion, which in turn dilutes the intake charge and decreases hp.
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My EVO 2 - 8.96@158 mph in the 1/4
221.4 mph at Maxton sept. 08
223.6 mph at the Texas mile oct. 08
237.6 mph at Maxton april 2010
bak189
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« Reply #33 on: January 10, 2009, 11:48:30 AM »

Hey, Hotnuts.....now you are looking GOOD............
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« Reply #34 on: January 12, 2009, 06:16:59 PM »



Balancer, breather pipe and pickup removed



I had to suspend work for the weekend.....
Didnt have a way to remove the stator rotor. Requires a M19X1.5 to remove.
Had a friend whip me one out.
Ill make sure to put it in the "do not loose" box...if I can find where ever I left it.



Cases spilt!!!!

Not long after this pic was taken the crank was pulled.
This is the first time I have ever pulled a motor apart that there was nothing wrong with it.
As a rule anytime I would see anything this deep the motor it had a serious failure and was a mission to save parts. Its really nice to pull something apart and have it mechanically perfect. Funny how not having the motor disassembly being a recovery mission makes the job seem less like work.

We were told our LOOOONNNNGGG awaited transmission will be here on the 15th.
For whatever reason I still think I will have more BS excuses before its all said and done.
Time will tell and Friday is the day. 

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Jh -I don't know that much about the turbo busa builds but I am wondering if anyone else has run that turbo on a busa motor with success?
The reason I ask is that a friend of mine is a master power dealer and he ran that turbo for 2 years on a 2 ltr. mitsu like I have. It lasted well for a plain bearing turbo driven on the street at high boost but they are very laggie(slow to spool) and don't make very good power for the size they are. He made something like 700 allwheel hp with it maxed out. It is an old design wheel.
There are alot of better turbos out there at this time.

And as I said I don't know busa engine characteristics but that turbo is way to small on a mitsu to try and run very aggressive cams due to a lack of exhaust flow which creates reversion, which in turn dilutes the intake charge and decreases hp.

There are other busas with this turbo.
I agree that there are better choices, its what I have currently.

The turbos max HP is 700ish. If I can get in that area the car will be really rolling!

I target that I will need in the 350-375 HP range to get to 200.



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"Sometimes it is impossible to deal with her, but most of the time she is very sweet, and if you caress her properly she will sing beautifully."
*Andres Segovia
(when Im not working on the car, I am ususally playing classical guitar)
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« Reply #35 on: January 12, 2009, 07:31:51 PM »

I target that I will need in the 350-375 HP range to get to 200.

Go for it nuts!   We are with you big time!

Geo
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« Reply #36 on: January 14, 2009, 12:31:56 PM »

To you guys that are already running turbo hayabusa's how do you return the turbo lube oil back to the pan above the oil level? I bought a used 2" billet pan with a large hole in the side up near the pan rail but I am afraid to use the hole for the return because I think it will be below the oil level.
Most recommendations that I see say to keep the return a large diameter to handle the foamy oil and above the oil level in the pan so that it won't back up but I believe that the normal oil level in the sight glass is above the pan rail and the turbo oil would have to be returned into the case somewhere? Yes or no?

Bruce Harmon
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« Reply #37 on: January 14, 2009, 01:20:09 PM »

Bruce: As long as the turbo drain is above the pan it will gravity feed. Doesn't seem to matter if the oil returns to the pan below the oil sump level. If you run a ball-bearing turbo most put a restrictor in the feed line so in actuality there is not much oil draining back. You can always install a scavenge pump and return the oil to the clutch cover.
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Stainless1
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« Reply #38 on: January 14, 2009, 01:21:32 PM »

Bruce, we supply with a restricted #4 and return via a #12 to the pan.  The line is in the side of our 2 inch.  We also draw a vacuum on the crankcase so return has not been an issue.  You should notice the oil level in the sight glass disappears when you start the motor.  The level is lower than the glass when you are running.  
We run our oil to just above the glass at Bonneville.
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Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, MSA Bockscar Lakester with a little N20 
MSA Bockscar Lakester #1000 my fastest mile 245 and change, 84 ci turbobusa motor... but Corey's 233 MPH H/BFL record is still 3MPH faster than mine.
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« Reply #39 on: January 14, 2009, 01:53:34 PM »

Don't ever borrow oil from little Joe Amo, he thins it but that's a different story like yellow snow.
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Glen
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« Reply #40 on: January 14, 2009, 04:33:52 PM »

Thank you for your responses the 3/8 NPT tapped hole in the side of the pan that I have was probably used by the previous owner as a turbo oil return so I will use the same hole! I do not have the turbo yet and will probably run the car in the spring n.a. to check out the car so for now I will plug the hole!
I am running up a large bill on this forum I hope some day to pay it back, thanks again. I have tried to post pictures without much luck, if I caan figure it out i will post some pics of the car.
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« Reply #41 on: January 14, 2009, 05:03:38 PM »

I only wanted to add to Bruces comment that it is a good idea to have the center line of the turbo shaft above the oil level in the motor....

Even if its just 1" higher the oil will drain into the pan even if the drain is below oil level (pan for instance).

If the center line of the turbo shaft is below the oil level you will get oil leaching back into the turbo when the engine is not running. This in turn will cause the motor to leak oil and smoke like its on fire when you start it up. All turbo headers (*at least I donít know of any that arenít) are now made so the shaft is above the oil level. The old school original turbo kits mounted the turbo too low and then also had to supplement their system with an electric scavenge pump to return oil.



Bruce, you have mail  grin
« Last Edit: January 14, 2009, 05:11:01 PM by Jonny Hotnuts » Logged

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"Sometimes it is impossible to deal with her, but most of the time she is very sweet, and if you caress her properly she will sing beautifully."
*Andres Segovia
(when Im not working on the car, I am ususally playing classical guitar)
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« Reply #42 on: January 17, 2009, 07:01:17 PM »



Some parts arrived today!!!!

STILL NO TRANNY!!!!!!
I am told next week.......

I am going to sell the rods pictured (Falicon knife) and use Carrillo. I have Carrillo in all my other motors and is the only reason I am opting for them.

I am going to engine turn the billet stuff.....
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jonny_hotnuts@hotmail.com

"Sometimes it is impossible to deal with her, but most of the time she is very sweet, and if you caress her properly she will sing beautifully."
*Andres Segovia
(when Im not working on the car, I am ususally playing classical guitar)
Jonny Hotnuts
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« Reply #43 on: January 17, 2009, 09:00:24 PM »



An hour later and the clutch slave support is done
« Last Edit: January 17, 2009, 09:25:36 PM by Jonny Hotnuts » Logged

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"Sometimes it is impossible to deal with her, but most of the time she is very sweet, and if you caress her properly she will sing beautifully."
*Andres Segovia
(when Im not working on the car, I am ususally playing classical guitar)
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« Reply #44 on: January 31, 2009, 04:18:12 PM »



FINALLY!!!!!


After waiting for what seemed a year I got the tranny.
The work was done by Paul Gast (FBG- www.fastbygast.com )

It has been undercut and has the 30mm output shaft.

The sprocket shown is a 19t.



---------------------------------------

By recommendation I am opting to not use the high volume oil pump and regulator valve.
I now only need the bearings, gaskets and main studs before I can start putting the lower end back together.

Unfortunately I have to use the Falicon rods (no one bidded on them on ebay).....nothing wrong with them but they are not my first choice in rods but thatís how it goes sometimes. Hope that it doesnít end up biting me in the end.



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jonny_hotnuts@hotmail.com

"Sometimes it is impossible to deal with her, but most of the time she is very sweet, and if you caress her properly she will sing beautifully."
*Andres Segovia
(when Im not working on the car, I am ususally playing classical guitar)
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