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Author Topic: turbo motor build  (Read 49289 times)
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hayaboosta
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« Reply #105 on: March 10, 2009, 12:16:40 AM »

The four sizes of Hayabusa main and rod bearings have a thickness range of .0006"

Main bearings  .0586" to .0592"
Rod bearings   .0583" to .0589"

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200 MPH Club X 7
Bonneville  "Naked"
 El Mirage    "Naked"
  Maxton       "Naked"
   Mojave        "Naked"
    Loring          "Naked"
     Bub 201       "Naked"
      Texas           "Clothed" (by accident)
Stan Back
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« Reply #106 on: March 10, 2009, 10:39:46 AM »

RCH?  I thought I was the last one to frequently use that term.  No one seems to remember nowadays.

Rex -- Please help me extrapolate the correct formula (and an answer, too) to the question . . .
If I can go 210 on 725 H.P., what would be the maximum speed with the same vehicle with only 350 H.P.

I can't remember how to solve for it, let alone do the square roots.

Stan Back
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Jonny Hotnuts
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« Reply #107 on: March 10, 2009, 11:27:04 AM »

Stan, my back woods figuring says it would go 165 ish with 350 whp.
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"Sometimes it is impossible to deal with her, but most of the time she is very sweet, and if you caress her properly she will sing beautifully."
*Andres Segovia
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Sumner
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« Reply #108 on: March 10, 2009, 12:15:30 PM »

Stan, my back woods figuring says it would go 165 ish with 350 whp.

Hey now that you got that accurate mic you can do better.  It is 164.8 mph evil.

Stan the spreadsheet is here......

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/bvillecar/bville-spreadsheet-index.html

....... you just have to put the numbers in,

Sum
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« Reply #109 on: March 10, 2009, 01:52:15 PM »

Thanx, guys.

Sorry, Sum -- my machine won't converse with that chart (let alone open it).

Stan
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« Reply #110 on: March 14, 2009, 11:35:32 AM »

In regards to Busa lubrication........APE oil-pump gear......drill and mod. oil pasages in the case.....
block off sprayers.......billet reuseable oil filter (
flows more oil) AND use Castrol R 30 or 40 castor
(bean oil) no better lubricant in the world..........
(drain it out of the motor when hot..store and use again) 
Boy, this should get some reply's
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« Reply #111 on: March 15, 2009, 01:33:04 PM »

Quote
billet reuseable oil filter

Better but billet filters also bypass.

I am going to run a 6" Oberg http://www.obergfilters.com/main.html . Currently I have having adaptors made that allow a summit remote filter relocator to screw on in place of the stock filter and then allow the lines to be run to the oberg.
In the oil lines I am also going to use quick couplers that will allow me to disconect-reconnect the filter in seconds to clean the screen in away from the car and under a bucket (I dont want anyone to say that the hydraulic quick couplings might fail....because they wont).

Cant say anything about the bean oil...good or bad.
Last year we ran Royal Purple full synth. A buddy gave me a case and couldnt justify buying other oil.
Might use it again this year unless someone has a good reason not too.
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jonny_hotnuts@hotmail.com

"Sometimes it is impossible to deal with her, but most of the time she is very sweet, and if you caress her properly she will sing beautifully."
*Andres Segovia
(when Im not working on the car, I am ususally playing classical guitar)
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« Reply #112 on: March 15, 2009, 02:09:10 PM »



Almost done!

(not really, waiting on the crank to get back is driving me nuts). I put the cases together and on the pan to make myself feel like I am further along then I really am. I have found that the build is mostly waiting for parts and less building.

On the motor you can see I have installed the APE main studs (DOES ANYONE KNOW IF THESE SHOULD BE LOCTITED?).



Heres a shot of the smaller jets.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Heres a list of some the stuff going into the motor so far:

Carrillo H beams
JE turbo pistons
APE tool pins
APE oil pump gear
APE main studs
APE cylinder studs
APE 65 psi springs
APE manual cam chain tensioner
APE roller chain conversion
.80 spacer
Oberg 6" remote filter
Billet oil pan
Billet slave support
Muzzy Billet clutch basket
MTC Billet clutch hub
Fierra SS valves - stock intake size - +1mm exhaust
Schnell automotive (new red hat holders) Head cut and blended for +1mm valves
Fast by Gast undercut tranny with billet big shaft
Marine Crank - Balanced, Nitrated and Polished crank
Case oil mods

If you see anything I left out that should be used let me know!
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jonny_hotnuts@hotmail.com

"Sometimes it is impossible to deal with her, but most of the time she is very sweet, and if you caress her properly she will sing beautifully."
*Andres Segovia
(when Im not working on the car, I am ususally playing classical guitar)
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« Reply #113 on: March 15, 2009, 02:48:28 PM »

Oil Mod #3

I dont recommend this on streeted bikes, but with drag or LSR you are good to go.

This mod blocks the oil jet to the stator. This is a stator cooler only and is not needed for lubrication.
While the jet is only about .030 this oil can be used elsewhere and is not needed unless you are planning to tour around with your biker buddies. (some people say its not even needed even if you tour because the stator doest get hot regardless but this is your choice).



Remove the jet from the stator side (10mm)
You can install a plug or bolt in the hole (I think its 5X1.5 but not sure) but dont go deeper then 1/4". It may not be a problem but I can not tell if this passage continues somewhere else or stops here.




I used my mig gun (dont recommend this, you’ll need a steady hand or you will nuke the threads!) But I figured that if I blow the threads I will just get a bolt and be done with it. Fortunately it came out perfect.

Re-install with a bit of loctite.

NOTE:

I have decided to not give information about the 4th mod.
I dont feel it should be done, I am not doing it and would rather others dont do it as well.

If you are full hot on wanting to know I will post it but still feel it is not something you should not consider.
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jonny_hotnuts@hotmail.com

"Sometimes it is impossible to deal with her, but most of the time she is very sweet, and if you caress her properly she will sing beautifully."
*Andres Segovia
(when Im not working on the car, I am ususally playing classical guitar)
Jonny Hotnuts
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« Reply #114 on: March 15, 2009, 05:30:27 PM »

Main stud installation:




In the package you will get 3 longer studs, they go here. You can tell by seeing the extra meat on the other side of the case but is a pain when you need to do the install without the other side of the case on. I had to look up the location in the busa manual.



I took this pic because the only 3/8 24 nuts I could find were nylon lock nuts and these you can imagine would be stupid to try and install studs with. I ended up putting the lock nuts in a vice and grinding the tops of the nylon off with a 7" grinder with flap wheel (overkill but got the job done!). All torqued to 8 inch pounds and loctited.



Finished install.



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jonny_hotnuts@hotmail.com

"Sometimes it is impossible to deal with her, but most of the time she is very sweet, and if you caress her properly she will sing beautifully."
*Andres Segovia
(when Im not working on the car, I am ususally playing classical guitar)
manta22
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« Reply #115 on: March 15, 2009, 06:45:51 PM »

JH;

 "All torqued to 8 inch pounds and loctited."

Are you sure about that torque? It sounds really low.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ



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Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
Jonny Hotnuts
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« Reply #116 on: March 15, 2009, 08:10:41 PM »

Neil you are correct, it is 8 foot pounds (not inch, but that is still not much) although the cylinder studs just say to "snug" whatever that means!
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jonny_hotnuts@hotmail.com

"Sometimes it is impossible to deal with her, but most of the time she is very sweet, and if you caress her properly she will sing beautifully."
*Andres Segovia
(when Im not working on the car, I am ususally playing classical guitar)
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« Reply #117 on: March 15, 2009, 11:59:04 PM »

WHAT....nobody is going to get on me about
"Bean oil" ..............possible most of you youngsters have never heard of it.........good for your engine and good for your health.........it keeps you going and going and going.................

PS. Hotnuts, glad to see you are keeping Jay at APE in business...................they do make great stuff................................................................................
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« Reply #118 on: March 15, 2009, 11:59:58 PM »

the fourth mod is probably.......an additive.......

those are usually good for the LAST bit of hp.........
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Stainless1
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« Reply #119 on: March 16, 2009, 08:46:16 AM »

the fourth mod is probably.......an additive.......

those are usually good for the LAST bit of hp.........

Uh oh.... here comes the pitch for Amo anti-galling compound....  rolleyes
 cheers
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Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, MSA Bockscar Lakester with a little N20 
MSA Bockscar Lakester #1000 my fastest mile 245 and change, 84 ci turbobusa motor... but Corey's 233 MPH H/BFL record is still 3MPH faster than mine.
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